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Thread: likely head problem

  1. #41
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    Thanks for the response. I got a new set of studs from M.R. yesterday so I'll replace the lot.

    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    Unless it has been done recently, I'd be testing /replacing the oil cooler
    The oil cooler was inspected at a LR place back in April, about 300km ago, and new gaskets fitted as part of diagnosing the coolant to oil problem. It was they who recommended a recondition and new head gasket.

    Pressure testing will require full disassembly including valves right?

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by ninchi View Post
    Thanks for the response. I got a new set of studs from M.R. yesterday so I'll replace the lot.



    The oil cooler was inspected at a LR place back in April, about 300km ago, and new gaskets fitted as part of diagnosing the coolant to oil problem. It was they who recommended a recondition and new head gasket.

    Pressure testing will require full disassembly including valves right?
    Not necessarily, if the pressure drops on the test, then the port(s) that were leaking could have the valve removed to see if it was worth repairing.

    However, usually worth replacing the head at that point.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by discorevy View Post
    Not necessarily,
    Right, just trying to figure out how far I need to strip it down.

    The exhaust manifold is off, I'll double nut the rest of the studs, I presume the inlet manifold needs to come off, and then in order to get the injectors out I need to unbolt the cam housing from the top of the head so I can rotate the rocker to get them out.

    That really only leaves the fuel controller and the valves still assembled, and unless it's a hugely expensive or risky, at that point I may as well pull them out, then I can pen dye the head to see if it's even worth sending to pressure test?

    Then of course the alternative to save all that faffing about is just clean it up, whack the new gasket on and maybe that fixes it, or at least it's no worse than it was and I can drive it out to the garage for them to do the new head? I'm potentially out a gasket and bolts if it needs a new head, but in the grand scheme of the new head it's not huge extra.

  4. #44
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    It's a lot of work and money to change a head gasket on a TD5 just to "see if it fixes it".

    That's my opinion anyway.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    It's a lot of work and money to change a head gasket on a TD5 just to "see if it fixes it".

    That's my opinion anyway.
    Have to agree. Don't want to do it twice.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #46
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    Update on the head. Started her up today, she's purring like a kitten and the cooling system is staying full and pressurised for at least 30 min after shutdown from warm. Time will tell, but signs are positive.

    In the end I didn't get it skimmed as there was no warping, and I had clear indication of gasket delamination at the front left corner, between the oil feed and a coolant port as well as a snapped plastic dowel at the front left.

    I'll post some lessons learned later for the next person who takes this on.

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