Thread: Diesel additive - Puma 2.2

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

i use...

FTC Decarbonizer - good for injector rattle (defender tdci, lc 200), sticky turbo actuators (d3 / d4), vehicles with dpf issues.

AW10 - engine oil additive (mostly as a preventative measure), use on customers vehicles (d3, d4, defenders), lt230 transfer cases (defenders).

like all additives, its not the bee all and end all to issues but it can help.

Is the decarboniser worth using on a non-dpf 2.4?

Originally Posted by Tikka7mm08

Is the decarboniser worth using on a non-dpf 2.4?

Most definitely.

Originally Posted by Tikka7mm08

Is the decarboniser worth using on a non-dpf 2.4?

in Australia upto 2016 Defenders had no dpf and I use it

Originally Posted by BradC

The FTC though really has gone from "**** me there's a massive cloud back there and might be a car in there somewhere" to "I can still see the car and its individual headlights through the mild mist. A significant difference.

What that means on a long term basis, I have no idea. But on a $$ basis, I more than pay for the additive just by checking fuelwatch and picking cheaper diesel.

In the first 2 initial tank fulls the FTC Decarbonizer has loosened the rings enough that I have gone from waiting 2 minutes for the white oil smoke to clear b4 I drive off to not embarrass myself, to being able to jump in, fire up and drive off after putting the seat belt on.

The RMI-25 cooling system treatment (which can be left in but I used as a descaler) left the water passages like new.

Was hesitant to pay 125 (ebay) for 1 litre of 'snake oil' to test it out but as I already know the block needs a rebuild (and their coolant product had worked as claimed) it was a tiny fraction of the rebuild cost to part with if it could kick the can down the road a bit longer, which it has quite cost effectively done (pun intended)

Originally Posted by johnp38

In the first 2 initial tank fulls the FTC Decarbonizer has loosened the rings enough that I have gone from waiting 2 minutes for the white oil smoke to clear b4 I drive off to not embarrass myself, to being able to jump in, fire up and drive off after putting the seat belt on.

The RMI-25 cooling system treatment (which can be left in but I used as a descaler) left the water passages like new.

Was hesitant to pay 125 (ebay) for 1 litre of 'snake oil' to test it out but as I already know the block needs a rebuild (and their coolant product had worked as claimed) it was a tiny fraction of the rebuild cost to part with if it could kick the can down the road a bit longer, which it has quite cost effectively done (pun intended)

Was this in a Puma or something older? I have smoke coming from all my Defenders. The 300Tdi always smokes on startup and hard acceleration sort of blue/gray. The Td5 will smoke on hard acceleration or sometimes when you have been idling for a little while, such at the lights and then a large white cloud as you move off.
And the Puma has whitish smoke at idle, always has.
From what I’m reading I’m going to need different products to address each situation.

Cheers Simon

its normal for a 300tdi to blow a chuff of smoke on startup.
TDCi (puma) idle smoke can be cleared up by changing to a different oil, have a look at the other thread here re what oil.

You could throw some FTC decarbonizer in all 3 vehicles.
Additives overall arent actually needed, they can help in certain circumstances.

Originally Posted by travelrover

Was this in a Puma or something older? I have smoke coming from all my Defenders. The 300Tdi always smokes on startup and hard acceleration sort of blue/gray. The Td5 will smoke on hard acceleration or sometimes when you have been idling for a little while, such at the lights and then a large white cloud as you move off.
And the Puma has whitish smoke at idle, always has.
From what I’m reading I’m going to need different products to address each situation.

Cheers Simon

My Td5 Disco, which is my first diesel and has taught me not much about diesels (I thought it would) as it turned out they're just another donk with injectors in the end like all the others.

I wouldn't use multiple products at once as you could be wasting money by not knowing which one worked (assuming you get a good result) and then keeping up an expensive regimen of using them all.

No magic in a bottle will cure a donk that really does need a rebuild, and the additives of decades ago (apart from the original slick 50) were borderline useless in my not so humble opinion, but times have changed and I have plenty of engine building experience and I would suggest just get one bottle of ftc decarbonizer, as that is plenty and then some, and follow the dosage recommendations and use in all your vehicles, don't expect instant miracles but at the end of the first 700 odd kays I couldn't wait to refill and see the difference after I went through another tank.

My problem with all my cars is short return runs to the local shops (about 5k total) and stop start driving if I go into the city (about 60k return, once a month) for an appointment so petrol or diesel is irrelevant they all gunge up from not getting a decent run under load.

I also used it on my 2018 picanto (petrol) which has 149000 on the clock already and it quietened it back down to just the normal injector noise at idle and smooth again.

Nothing in a bottle is magic when you need to give the engine a do over but this stuff is letting me delay things.

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Additives overall arent actually needed, they can help in certain circumstances.

Words of experience