Thread: Puma 2.4 losing coolant

pressurize to 16psi, you need to simply keep looking.

common items, but most are passenger side;
heater valve, passenger side.
water pump, passenger side.
engine oil cooler (what the oil filter attaches) plastic fitting underside, passenger side.
most of the cooling hoses are also passenger side.

expansion tank cap, drivers side.
egr cooler hoses, one is by the expansion tank.

Thanks DazzaTD5, looked at all the usual culprits, found that the cap was faulty, new cap seems to be retaining coolant now but coolant temps still fluctuating using Gap IId unit to phone. Its usually pretty stable around 88-90deg sometimes ups with head temp under loads. I'll change the thermostat while Im dropping coolant to change oring in oil cooler and I'll disconnect all plumbing of water to the unit before the EGR as its all disconnected anyway.
What do you think to the engine power dropping off, is this a engine saving mode or did the pistons grab with extra heat?? It recovered in seconds and pulled at usual power. It's not using oil, still got plenty of power on hills under load (towing 1500kg), no oil or bubbling in water or water in oil. guessing head is still ok or is it.

The engine is designed to stop if the temperature reaches a certain point. It will start again when the temperature drops. Happened to our 2.4. Culprit turned out to be a faulty hose clip passenger side. Coolant was escaping.

the safety feature for coolant temp is pretty high, like 115 deg C. It's not uncommon for the coolant temps to get north of 100 deg C under sustained load (long hill). so long as the temps drop relatively quick once the load abates, its considered normal. 3 summers ago i drove across the Hay Plain and the temp never dropped below 100 deg C for hours on end, no adverse effects. The Puma head is pretty resiliant to high temps. I only know of 1 Puma engine that cracked a head and that was towing a heavy caravan on a really hot day. Keep driving like normal and if you start losing coolant or abnormal high or sustained temps would you consider a long term problem.

Originally Posted by swivelrat

Thanks DazzaTD5, looked at all the usual culprits, found that the cap was faulty, new cap seems to be retaining coolant now but coolant temps still fluctuating using Gap IId unit to phone. Its usually pretty stable around 88-90deg sometimes ups with head temp under loads. I'll change the thermostat while Im dropping coolant to change oring in oil cooler and I'll disconnect all plumbing of water to the unit before the EGR as its all disconnected anyway.
What do you think to the engine power dropping off, is this a engine saving mode or did the pistons grab with extra heat?? It recovered in seconds and pulled at usual power. It's not using oil, still got plenty of power on hills under load (towing 1500kg), no oil or bubbling in water or water in oil. guessing head is still ok or is it.

Items that help a TDCi with regards to the cooling system include changing:
*Thermostat, go to a 82 deg C (normally grey in colour but this is NOT a given)
*change water pump.
*change heater valve (if its leaking or dis-coloured)
*change viscous fan, these simple wear out.
*ensure radiator is clean inside and not blocked on the lower part

The issue with getting a Defender TDCi hot or too hot is not so much the head cracks but it goes soft beyond use.
its a given if one turns up after an over heating issue is to quote to replace.

The positive side is all new heads (and complete engines) I get come out of Ford's South Africa plant and seem very nicely finished as opposed to Fords other plants that seem to have a lack of finish.

Thanks for the advice Dazz, whats a SA head worth to replace out of interest, north of $5k? Hoping Im not ready for one yet after todays adventures.

Well, pressurised to 16psi last night, didnt move for 15mins, seems ok but was cold so probably wouldnt indicate a crack in the head that opens on temp. Good thing is that there was no coolant leaks anywhere obvious.
Took for a run this morning, head temps still getting up there but not excessive, coolant temp was all over the place. So I suspected that thermostat is done but was confirmed as bottom hose was cold on return from run. Will replace shortly and hopefully I'll be back in business towing excessive loads in excessive heat tomorrow with no head issues fingers crossed.

Well, looks like the thermostat was fine, but still blowing coolant out the cap on load, temp gauge still showing normal, GAP II live values for coolant temp climbs to 110deg and head temps north of those. Anyone had hassles with water pump? Surely if spinning on the outside, that the water pump is spinning inside?? There is plenty of coolant coming out of bleed valve on idle which would indicate coolant flow??

Guessing a new head gasket otherwise, head at the worst unless there are any other obvious leads?

Thoughts.

Cheers all.