Thread: Swivels & CV: Collective experience/ advice needed

Hello all,

I was repacking my front wheel bearings (noticed some scoring on the races, so will replace them as well) and noticed that the CV splines were looking pretty worn and a small amount of play was apparent between them and the flange. If I go into replace the CV what other bits should I assume would be smart to replace? I will have to order the parts ahead of time so trying to figure which parts to order.
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This is my daily drive, so minimal time on jackstands is the goal.

I have never done my CV's before so any advice is welcomed.

Apologies all, I posted in wrong section (series vehicles). This is was meant for the Defender section. Attention @admin would it be possible to move this post to the correct section?

Cheers

as for seals, gaskets etc. add these to the shopping list

- paper gasket for the bearing spindle to steering knuckle
- double lipped seal for the wheel hub
- possibly the seal that is pressed inside the bearing spindle behind the needle bearing that supports the stub axle. needle bearing if it has seen hard miles.
- spare calliper bolts (some mechanics are more gorilla than monkey). If you round them coming out, there will be down time.
- a brake hose clamp or end plug tool (if you need to separate calliper for any reason)
- new lock nut(s)
- i have in my spares kit bearing spindle to steering knuckle bolts. they don't go astray and save on down time if one is stretched or worse still, you snap one.
- for the same reason, i carry spare drive flange bolts and tend to change them with a bearing regrease as general maintenance. i'm a fan of using 12.9 hex head drive flange bolts. OEM 10.9 bolts are torqued to about 68nm, 12.9 is 100nm. If you run big rubber and do a fair amount of low range crawling stuff, those bolts take a beating. if its a country roads kinda car, the OEM bolts are more than adequate.
- i echo the thoughts on MD drive flanges.

if your steering ball is not leaking or the seal perished, there is no need to get that deep. Same with the king pin bearings. if not flogged, no need to touch them.

minds will differ on this comment. I am a fan of running a 50/50 mix of CV grease and 80w90 oil in the CV compartment. I use NGLI-1 CV grease (higher the number more runny). On its own it's too thick, added with oil, its like summer runny honey. You can tighten up the mix with less oil, ie cold morning honey runny. the CV compartment takes 400ml of the mix. a standard size peanut butter jar is 400ml. One shot grease is expensive for what it is and the amount you get for your $. my compromise solution i get a lifetime of CV grease changes for the cost of a pair of one shots. If you are brave, use the wife's silicone piping bag as the applicator. i use a small silione funnel but its not as efficient as a piping bag (I'm scared of my wife).

all in all, it's not a hard job.