Thread: Sticking clutch

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Yes... I would have started with replacing the clutch master, cheap **** trailer ones dont last long.

now that its out you should replace all three components of the hydraulics. The slave, the adaptor and the reducer valve. All three should be the later style.

Had a similar problem recently after a clutch/hydraulics replacement ( 2007 2.4 Tdci ) Hard to engage 1st gear with the engine running. This was resolved by cutting out/removing a section of the (Exmour) floor mat & mud mat that was preventing the clutch pedal from reaching full stroke - near 20mm in total. Problem solved in my case.

With hydraulics replaced and adjusted, everything seems to be working just as it should. I couldn't get a decent pedal throw with the pedal height adjusted to the LR specification though, had to bring it up a bit which- as Dazza has suggested- puts it pretty much level with the brake pedal.

This is getting to be a right pain- I'm back to having to switch the engine off to engage first or reverse. Thought I had it beat, but after a 10,000km trip, I'm back to square one.

I've been in touch with LOF, the clutch supplier. Got a suggestion to back the stop bolt out, which I have done with no effect. Also adjusted the pushrod again to maximise the pedal stroke. I am unable to select a gear with the engine running, makes the car a real pain to drive- having to sit through traffic light cycles with my foot on the clutch, switch the engine off and on repeatedly when parking. I'm open to any suggestions on this.

I've adjusted the clutch m/cyl pushrod and the pedal stop for maximum stroke, with no effect. Here are results of my testing this evening...

- The pedal feel is normal, i.e. feels like it is operating the clutch normally. Take-up is about halfway up. There are no notches or tight spots through the pedal stroke.
-with the engine running, applying pressure with the gearstick attempting to engage first or reverse, the vehicle creeps but won't engage the gear.
-switch off the engine, engage first or reverse and re-start with clutch depressed- there is no creeping until the pedal takes up, about halfway up from the floor. Tested on level tarmac and even with a bit of a downhill gradient; definitely no drag or creep once engaged.
-engine running, clutch depressed and car stationary, I can forcefully select a higher gear, e.g. third, fourth, although it feels rough. Sometimes I can get it into second, and then rapidly into first- again, feels rough.
-if I attempt to take off in a high gear- i.e. induce some drag- it seems to ?free up? and then allow first or reverse to be selected. If I then select neutral, release the clutch, depress it again and attempt to select a gear, it won't select.


It feels to me like the friction surfaces are binding together, but the binding is broken when a gear is actually engaged. It's got me stumped. And frustrated.

Originally Posted by POD

I've adjusted the clutch m/cyl pushrod and the pedal stop for maximum stroke, with no effect. Here are results of my testing this evening...

- The pedal feel is normal, i.e. feels like it is operating the clutch normally. Take-up is about halfway up. There are no notches or tight spots through the pedal stroke.
-with the engine running, applying pressure with the gearstick attempting to engage first or reverse, the vehicle creeps but won't engage the gear.
-switch off the engine, engage first or reverse and re-start with clutch depressed- there is no creeping until the pedal takes up, about halfway up from the floor. Tested on level tarmac and even with a bit of a downhill gradient; definitely no drag or creep once engaged.
-engine running, clutch depressed and car stationary, I can forcefully select a higher gear, e.g. third, fourth, although it feels rough. Sometimes I can get it into second, and then rapidly into first- again, feels rough.
-if I attempt to take off in a high gear- i.e. induce some drag- it seems to ?free up? and then allow first or reverse to be selected. If I then select neutral, release the clutch, depress it again and attempt to select a gear, it won't select.


It feels to me like the friction surfaces are binding together, but the binding is broken when a gear is actually engaged. It's got me stumped. And frustrated.

could be drag on the spigot bearing or a warped friction plate.

Ive also seen 1 incident of a bent clutch finger not fully disengaging but then that was a clutch abused on a burn out strip

Can you slip it into second or third and then straight back to first or reverse?

Yes I can sometimes- but not always- get it into 3rd, less often able to get 2nd, when I can get 2nd I can sometimes- but not always- slam it into 1st from there.
I renewed the spigot bearing last time it was apart- just before our trip 10,000km ago. I checked with a piece of shaft the same diameter as the input shaft and there was free rotation.

Luke from LOF has asked if I checked the friction plate for flatness, which I did not. Or runout. I guess I'll be pulling the gearbox out again. Oh joy. Happily I made a couple of cradles to lift the transfer and the gearbox from underneath with a floor crane, will make that part of the task a lot easier. I'll order some fresh torque-yield bolts for the pressure plate whilst I try to psych myself up for the job. I re-used them last time, probably not a good idea to go a third time.

I had a thought overnight about the fact that I have been using a gearbox oil other than the Ford or LR supplied stuff, I'm using the Penrite full synthetic of the grade specified by Ashcrofts. Perhaps there is something magical about the Ford oil ($80 per litre 5 years ago) but I can't make that fit with these symptoms.