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Thread: Defender 200tdi Overheating Issue

  1. #1
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    Defender 200tdi Overheating Issue

    Hi all, I have a 1992 Defender 110 with a 200tdi which over the past 12 months has slowly increased it's 'operating temperature', to the point now where the needle is just below the black blank area below red hot.

    It doesn't get hot very quick, takes about 15 minutes of driving fairly quick to come up to this temp, and then stays there when stopped and idling or when driving.

    I have replaced the thermostat and the temperature sensor to no avail. I tested the gauge and wiring by hooking up the in wiring to the old sensor which I then put in a pot of water at around 88-90 degrees, which reads straight up and down on the gauge.

    I have used an old laser thermometer to get the temperature when hot of a couple components: top coolant pipe = 80, bottom coolant pipe = 60, and thermostat housing = 84. These seem like pretty standard measurements and not particularly indicative of overheating to me.

    However, when I turn the hot engine off, the fan spins with very little resistance, and when the engine cools, the fan become very firm and hard to turn. From what I understand this is the opposite behaviour of what you would want so, I am fairly certain that it needs replacing at some point. But, I am not sure that it is the source of the problem here, given it gets hot when going 100 on the highway, where I would assume the fan becomes redundant.

    Having already done the thermostat and temperature sensor, I was hoping someone could provide me with some advice on what they think the problem is, rather than just continually replacing components until it works.

    Thank you for your help.

  2. #2
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    What happens if you run it until the gauge is that far up, then turn the ignition right off for 10 seconds, then restart.

    What does the gauge do then?

  3. #3
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    I would replace the viscous fan coupling .

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by dero View Post
    I would replace the viscous fan coupling .
    Yeah, me too.

    Had the same trouble with the D1(300tdi).

    Did some pre prep stuff to it for a week away, and of course on the way up to high country at about 95-100 on the fwy, it's running hotter than normal.
    Usually sits on 83-85 on a warm day, but out of the blue it's now at 95-ish. I knew as soon as we hit slower hilly roads it'll race up and over 100's so had no choice other than to slow down as much as I could and fall behind(the bro, in his TD5).

    Still made it, and on really slow tracks in the high country, didn't really heat up at all. Only at speed on fwy with hill climbs.

    Got home, changed viscous, went for test drive up the same fwy as first day of trip ... no problem now.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    What happens if you run it until the gauge is that far up, then turn the ignition right off for 10 seconds, then restart.

    What does the gauge do then?
    Tried that this morning, but the gauge just returned to the same hot mark

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by chip.daniels View Post
    Tried that this morning, but the gauge just returned to the same hot mark
    Ok, I have seen where either the gauge has failed or there's an earthing problem and the gauge will keep climbing, but an ignition cycle will reset it.

    As others have said, the viscous hub on the fan may be failing, although the temp figures you have quoted seem fine to me.

  7. #7
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    When you replaced the temp sender did you get the correct one? I recently had an issue after an engine swap with what looked like over heating. I was supplied the incorrect sender for the 300tdi, there is a difference between the ones for the Discovery and the Defender. Might be the same with the 200tdi.
    300TDI water temp sensors - two types
    But the viscous coupler sounds crook too.

  8. #8
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    Also: a quick and easy test to see if the hub is working properly or not. If you have a heat gun of some kind! you said that when the engine is up to temp, the hub turns more easily. If you can get it off, use the heat gun on the small coil at the front of the hub.
    Heating up this coil activates the valve in the hub to allow the silicon to lock it.
    One it's hot, the coil will unwind itself(you will see it) and if it was originally free it should then be hard to turn again.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  9. #9
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    Okay thank you very much for your help guys, I have a fan hub on order and will give that a go next.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Also: a quick and easy test to see if the hub is working properly or not. If you have a heat gun of some kind! you said that when the engine is up to temp, the hub turns more easily. If you can get it off, use the heat gun on the small coil at the front of the hub.
    Heating up this coil activates the valve in the hub to allow the silicon to lock it.
    One it's hot, the coil will unwind itself(you will see it) and if it was originally free it should then be hard to turn again.
    How much heat does a heat gun put out compared to the temp that the air through the radiator gives the fan hub.?
    When should the fan hub start to lock up ? 90C perhaps ?
    That test would show its working but not perhaps at the right temp.
    Just a thought
    1963 ex Woomera Ambulance sold
    1950 Tickford Station Wagon sold
    1954 Royal Review sold
    Perentie 6x6 Forward Control Camper sold
    1957 SWB Hard top with 200TDI,.
    . 1965 2A Forward Control Camper.

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