Reply With QuoteAs a teenager, a brother of mine broke all the studs on a left wheel of his recently-acquired AP6 Valiant when trying to undo them, then spotted the L on the end of a stud.
Swaggie
Mitsubishi vans are the same,wheel studs like to snap if overtightened,very easy to replace them though.
The D4 nuts, if overtightened seem to sort of stretch,the studs don't break,well mine didn't.i just had to replace some nuts once,thanks to a tyre shop.
Swaggie
As a teenager, a brother of mine broke all the studs on a left wheel of his recently-acquired AP6 Valiant when trying to undo them, then spotted the L on the end of a stud.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
RoverLord
This morning I pulled the wheel off (again!) and ran the die nut over the thread of each stud - some only needed a spanner for the last couple of turns, two were spanner all the way.
And that was an issue - I had neither socket nor tube spanner large enough (42mm), so had to use an OE spanner at 1/6 turn per go. And the clearance from the hub is barely enough for a socket or tube even if I had one
Replacing the wheel was a lot easier than getting it off - spin all nuts on with a 1/2" adapter in the battery drill, then torque them up. I will check them at the gate on my next trip (probably just to the village on Sunday).
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
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