Thread: Gearbox Cooling - Defender

Weekend following this sounds ideal.

I'll pm my contact number.

Erich (Bundalene) has a couple of suppliers of duct that he buys from so we can swap notes on that too.

Good camping....the rains are comin'.

wrapping the exhaust with header tape from the manifold to the rear of the transfer case makes one hell of a difference and makes them quieter as a bonus

done it to three of mine and it made a significant difference to all of them.

dont do it on a stainless steel exhaust tho...

Originally Posted by incisor

wrapping the exhaust with header tape from the manifold to the rear of the transfer case makes one hell of a difference and makes them quieter as a bonus

done it to three of mine and it made a significant difference to all of them.

dont do it on a stainless steel exhaust tho...

Ditto, after Inc assured me my exhaust wouldn't spontaneously explode when wrapped

After about four years and probably close to 100,000km my exhaust is still fine and the temps inside the cab are much reduced.

As for noise, I'm not quite sure.
It is a Defender after all, and mine has muddies and a 3" exhaust with insufficient acoustic attenuation

Yes indeed...the insulation route has merit.

Bundalene has also shown one way on his Puma Project:





Matt and I will explore an alternative hypothesis (starting with a cup of java on Marrickville Rd).

If we fail then at least that line of inquiry will have been tested.

Watch this space.

Hi all, the idea of wrapping the exhaust pipe seems good to me.I get lots of heat in the cabin despite extra insulation on the seat box and floors.No burns from the handbrake lever,though. Several questions occur.1-what is the header tape made from? 2_Is there a best direction to wrap it, I.E. front to rear or rear to front? 3_ Is the tape self adhesive,if not, what holds it in position? Thanks in advance, 130man.

Hi Ross.

The best type is a silica based thread, I used ThermoTec brand. I wouldn't use a glass type, the temp rating isn't high enough and it'll die a premature death.

There are several sizes, depending on the OD of the pipe.
I had a few rolls on the shelf left over from years ago (1.5" IIRC) for header pipes on the race car so used that on the 3" exhaust, but for a normal exhaust the wider type is preferred/easier to use.

I started at the engine/dump pipe end and use a large stainless worm drive clamp to hold it in place, (the wrap makers also have fancy, low profile stainless fasteners like a zip tie that you can get too) then wrap like wrapping bike handle bars and finished off the same.
I also sealed mine with a silicon based (high temp) paint, although from memory Inc didn't bother when we last spoke about it on here.
The stuff I used was natural off white/sort of golden, but you can get in black these days too.

I went all the way to the t/case on mine and it makes a huge difference in the temp coming through the tunnel.

Hi Rick, thanks for those details.I may be able to pick up some tape on Tuesday when I am in town.Would Super Cheap or Repco be likely sources?I can see the benefits of carrying the taping back past the transmission,so I will do the same.This weekend I have been improving the air sealing around the transmission tunnel where I feel hot air has been getting in. Hope it all works as the recent 42 C heat was hard to take driving home from work in the afternoons.The air con was "inadequate" to the task.Cheers, Ross.

Someone that does go-faster stuff will stock it.

Surprisingly Bursons stock it when i last asked, but can't recall if there's a branch down your end of the valley.

Rocket Industries were the importers for Oz, might pay to get on their site and see who the retailers are