Thread: Wheel bearing torue settings

Most people (including some of the stealerships) just fit them buy feel BUT if you really want to torque them to their specific torques then you need a 3/8" drive tube socket (or adapted down to 3/8" drive) as I think they are only meant to be torqued to around 12nm which is stuff all really and you most likly wont get that low on a 1/2 drive.

In the manual it will give the correct torque.

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Tis one of these is what you want.

Mine is actually meant for Toyota's or Nissan's and is a little loose but still works.

It is also 3/4 drive and as you can see I have a 1/2 drive reducer fitted and I normally just use the breaker bar and just nip them.

Works for me, I havnt had one fail yet.

assuming your not talking about the cassette bearings used in later discos (and the rangies I think) by feel is good enough...

I always use the following technique

crank the first nut up as hard as I can, spin the wheel for at least 3 rotations then let it coast to a halt. (this settles the bearings so you dont get a dodgy feel for the rest of it)

back the hub nut off 1/2 a turn or more

tighten the hub nut till it just contacts the bearing and starts to offer resistance.

spin the wheel, if it drags back off and repeat the last 2 steps.

once the initial preset is right put the lock washer in place, crank the outside nut on and tighten up to 50nmish (I use the calibrated elbow most times)

then fold the lock washer over using a small pry bar to make sure it contacts 1 flat fully on each nut and preferabley Not the flat that sits over the tang or the flat of the washer thats on the axle housing.

Ive never lost a wheel either.

Thanks mcrover and blknight

The technique you describe was roughly what I used but I probably did not spin the hub enough!

My main problem is that not being mechanically minded I tend to use the cook book recipe technique

Anyway after some 12,000+ miles I am very happy with the way the 110 is going and it will get some TLC at Colins capable hands in Cairns on Wednesday


Regards


Brendan

if your in doubt about your wheel bearing settings after youve done 5-10 K jack the wheel up and do the "rim rock check" if thats ok drop it back down, finish of the 50Kms that youd usually do before rechecking the wheel nut tenions, check that then lift the wheel up again and then recheck the rim rock.

if it clunks you got it too loose, if you get "notching" or dragging youve got it too tight.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

if your in doubt about your wheel bearing settings after youve done 5-10 K jack the wheel up and do the "rim rock check" if thats ok drop it back down, finish of the 50Kms that youd usually do before rechecking the wheel nut tenions, check that then lift the wheel up again and then recheck the rim rock.

if it clunks you got it too loose, if you get "notching" or dragging youve got it too tight.

Sound advice, also just to add, you'll soon know if they're to tight, you inbuilt hand thermometer will tell you, warm is good, hot is not so good

Originally Posted by rovercare

Sound advice, also just to add, you'll soon know if they're to tight, you inbuilt hand thermometer will tell you, warm is good, hot is not so good

Must be doing something right!

Use back of hand first then finger tips to check temperatures. Must admit I did not repeat rim rock check.

There again I am a strong believer in earning my money the way I am good at and paying people who are good at things I am not good at.

I see/hear of too many LR being 'repaired' by people who think they are 'LR mechanics'

It is best to know and acknowledge your weak points as well as your strong points

Regards

Brendan