If you are not carrying rear seat pax all that often then why not on the back of the dog box/cubby? Easily accessible from either front seat.
Cheers, Dale
PIC - It comes with the Territory
'The D3' - 2006 TDV6 HSE
2008 Kimberley Kamper Sports RV
Previously Enjoyed:
2002 Adventure Offroad Campers 'Cape York'
2000 D2 Td5 - plus!
1997 Defender 110 Wagon - fully carpeted
Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
I removed the grab handle from the rear door & mounted the extinguisher in the original holes with a fire blanket suspended below.
Yet to find a permanant place for the winch controller.![]()
'51 Series 1 80"
'12 Defender 90![]()
My first one is currently mounted on the wheel arches in the rear, hinge side. That is about to change to the cargo barrier above the kiddies head. The second one is located in my 'spares' truck, but that's not as easily accessed.
As for storage in general, if that's what you're asking - the following is what I've done (or doing):
Overhead console - absolutely brilliant
Rear drivers side guard - fuel tank
Rear passenger side guard - water tank
Under passenger seat (between chassis and sliders) - water tank
Under drivers seat (between chassis and sliders) - fuel tank
Under drivers seat (cubby box) - high flow air compressor and accessories
Under passengers seat (cubby box) - 2 x batteries, marine battery switch, auxiliary fuse box
Between wheel arches in the rear - trucks fit absolutely perfectly in the gap for storage of items (not on slides)
Roof rack - good for bulky light items and the second spare tyre. You can use a bag to secure and keep dry loose items like clothes. You can also mount awnings, shovels, hi-lift jacks, Maxtrax etc off the side easily enough.
Currently looking at lockable tool boxes to fit on the wheel arches in the rear cargo area. Idea is to permanently secure them there, which allows a good packing area in between the wheel arches.
Also looking at running some sort of board across the wheel arches so that I can put say 4 decent containers underneath for recover gear and cooking gear. Drawers cost so much that I'm not trying to go down that line.
Then from there I have a flat area between the tool boxes to put the fridge, clothes and other items I carry on trips.
Cheers
Chris
My smallish ARB fire extinguisher is mounted horizontally on the back of the cubby box. That way it can be reached by driver, passenger or anyone in the back. My cubby box is non-standard custom built from the "department of interior" - but I think that you could still screw into the wood of the standard cubby
I seem to remember looking on my rave disk for this same thing many moons ago. From memory the recommended position for a fire extinguisher in a Defender was bolted to the base of the front passengers seat. I will see if I can dig up a picture.
Mine is mounted on the rear panel (see photo), unique to (the 90) panel vans I suspect?
I carry one it is mounted on the trans tunnel for easy reach no good having it where you can not get it. On the Disco I had one on the front fllor drivers seat and one on the cargo barrier. The small 0.4-0.5kg up to 1kg extinguishers will not do much if a fire even has a remote hold. You would need to get to the fire within the first few seconds. However it may give you time to get people out or retrieve irreplaceable items. Remember we are talking DCP extinguishers here and they destroy electrics and corrode metal. CO2 is better for electrics, but does not last long and should not be used in a confined area with people. Foam is messy but very effective. AFFF foam is very corrosive. I spilt about 20ml of undiluted AFFF on a tow bal a few days ago and it stripped the chrome off in sceonds. Fire Aide is non corrosive.
To have any real effect you would need to carry a 4.5-9kg extinguisher. I have and can put out car fires with a 9kg that have a fair hold. I stunned my ex boss once when he did not think it could be done. Conditions would have to be right and can very dramatically so anything is better than nothing. However most times I have seen the small ones used the car ends up a smouldering wreck unless you have quick access to multiples of them.
Basic thing to remember is aim at the base of the fire, not at the flames and you will be more effective. Most people aim willy nilly at the flames and there is no hope of putting a fire out this way with an extinguisher. My advice is do a fire extinguisher training course to learn how to use one effectivelly. But above all protect yourself, no point aiming at the base of a fire if the flames or smoke are going to get you and most vehicle fire smoke is toxic. If we go in close it is in SCBA.
When the fire aide extinguishers become available in Australia it will give you a lot more chance. All we use for foam eductor systems now. More expensive but can be used very effectivelly at 1% instead of 6% for AFFF and is environmetally safe and non toxic and non corrosive.
Cheers
Craig
2011 Discovery 4 TDV6
2009 DRZ400E Suzuki
1956 & 1961 P4 Rover (project)
1976 SS Torana (project - all cash donations or parts accepted)
2003 WK Holden Statesman
Departed
2000 Defender Extreme: Shrek (but only to son)
84 RR (Gone) 97 Tdi Disco (Gone)
98 Ducati 900SS Gone & Missed
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