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Thread: Drivetrain clunks

  1. #11
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    My defender had driveline clunks,it's got alot of K's but I found the bolts on just about everything were loose and after new bushes and bolts through out it was OK.One thing that made a big difference was going to 90/140 in the sals and half 85/90-90/140 in the T/C.I think that they need a heavier oil, especially in the hotter parts of Oz. Pat

  2. #12
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    my rovers clunck as well I have been told that most of the backlash comes from the transfer case they need to have new thrust bearings fitted.

  3. #13
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    There are a lot of places where a little bit of slack is to be expected (splines in gearbox, transfer case, axles drive flanges, thrust washers in the centre and axle diffs) and small amounts can add up. There are also a few places where excessive slack can appear due to wear that needs to be fixed - gearbox main shaft onto T/C input gear, drive shaft bolts, drive shaft U-joints*, rear axle drive flanges, A-frame ball joint, lower link bushes, engine mounts, plus probably a few I have missed. But as a general rule, the slack is pretty much not noticeable unless driving technique is poor or the handbrake is dragging even slightly.

    John

    *check this and repair immediately if necessary, as it may lead to prop shaft failure, and you definitely do not want to find out what this involves!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    <snip>
    .One thing that made a big difference was going to 90/140 in the sals and half 85/90-90/140 in the T/C.I think that they need a heavier oil, especially in the hotter parts of Oz. Pat
    I wish 75W-110 was readily available in Oz (yes, it is an SAE oil category) instead of having to mix your own.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Thanks again - would anyone be surprised (apart from me) if any mechanicals were worn out? The 110 isn't quite 1 year old.

    Anyway - driving it home last night I managed to be pretty much clunk free. Reckon one needs to have some Zen happening to drive a LR properly.
    2007 Defender 110
    2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
    1993 BMW R100LT
    2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black

  6. #16
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    Mine had a clunk when taking off but it was a known pinion slop issue in the rear diff. I got LR to fix this. They of course stuffed it up and put too much locktight in there and wrecked the pinion bearing. MR picked this up when putting the rear diff lock in. They fitted new bearings and re-set everything and it's been quiet as a mouse since...

    I must admit I'm surprised you can hear it going from 4th to 5th. That's quite fast...
     2005 Defender 110 

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