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almost any N70 or N70z specification battery will do the job nicely.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pomgonewalkabout
you can also use the N68 series. Im using the same size and type battery as the cranker in Big Red and (now) Fozzy, when I purchased them I just said I want an N70 lead acid battery in the cheapest form you have it.
So, you would be suggesting I disconnect the battery from the vehicle before charging with the DTEK charger.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
Ok, I finally got a round to it.
I hooked my multi-meter up and checked the drain on the battery after another Fail To Proceed last weekend due to a flat battery.
Just a little background... if we drive the car and then leave it for 14-21 days (I know it's bad but it happens) then your chances of getting a start are minimal. At the 21 day end they are non-existant.
Anyway, I hooked it up and the drain was .08 of an amp. I started pulling fuses without seeing a change and got sick of it! I then dived under the bonnet and disconnected the electronic rust prevention system (it was under suspicion). The load dropped by .04 instantly. So, half the drain was the RPS and the other half is the normal car accessory load.
That's not all that much, but due to the design of the Traxide DBS the load comes from both batteries but it then isolates the main from the secondary, leaving the main to be drained until it can't start. :( (this is not in any way a criticism of the DBS). The car doesn't get driven all that much when it is driven so possibly the batteries aren't ever getting fully charged - this might be playing into the problem.
So, clearly I have four options here. These are arranged in order of likely-hood!
1. Buy a small backup charger and hook this into the car when it's not in use. This is the best option as it's not good for batteries being drained heavily.
2. Change the wiring so the ERPS draws from the auxillary battery. With the DBS this will stop the no-start problem, but I don't think it's good for the battery being flattened. It might get done, but probably in addition to 1.
3. Disconnect the ERPS entirely.
4. Drive more!
Interesting, as I had been having similar problems with my 110 county battery. Also with an ERPS fitted. Never had this happen until I fitted the ERPS. After checking around I found mine was drawing similar amps. At the moment I am getting over the problem by using the vehicle a bit more often but like you I am wanting to sort this out, so I think the best way around it is to wire the ERPS up to the aux battery so that it doesnt affect the start one. At least it wont affect the starting then and if your aux is a deep cycle then it wont harm it unduly by being drained. Good luck.!
yes and no, that would be the absolute safest way.Quote:
Originally Posted by spudboy
I would just find the primary accessory feed, work out it maximum draw and then disconnect that feed, install a choke and then connect it all back up.
when you hook up the charger to the battery go straight to the battery and the choke protects everything sensitive.
Reading all that I think I might be better powering the ERPS off the aux battery and just try and drive the thing a bit more.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
its not that hard....
in its simplest form a choke is just a few turns of wire around a magnet.
in reality if its not a td5 and you dont have a fancy alarm or any wierd power supplies that drive laptops or the like then you probabley dont need it.
It is a TD5! :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
I'll ask my automotive electrical engineer mate about this and see what he thinks.
Battery fighter make a small charger that just has a charge and float cycle. That may be adequate for the job and I can't see why it would cause any problems?
that shouldnt cause any problems, IME its the ones with the "battery desulphating" feature that can cause the problems... 12v ECU's dont like 70v spikes.
(not all desulphating systems are the same you might get away without having the protection there)