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Thread: Defender flattening battery when left sitting

  1. #1
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    Defender flattening battery when left sitting

    We don't drive our defender all the time. In fact we don't really drive that much at all! It's not uncommon for our car to be left to sit for three weeks at a time.

    So, we've got this problem where the cranking battery is DEAD flat when you go to use it. I measured the parasitic load on it last night and it was .007 amps. That means that in 3 weeks the load should be about 3.5 amps...which isn't very much.

    There is a brand new cranking battery in there, and a second aux battery that ends up being isolated by the traxide system (not that there are any accessories on it normally).

    When it's sitting around about the only thing that I can think of that would be running is the body computer and the electronic rust proofer thingy. Neither of which should be capable of flattening a 100ah battery!

    Any ideas, chaps?

    PS. Also I'm pretty sure it's charging properly but will check this morning when it goes for a run.
     2005 Defender 110 

  2. #2
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    i thought the traxide isolators only isolate the batteries when both batteries are reduced to a pre-determine voltage therefore your aux battery will not be fully charged........

    can you override the isolator so that you can start from the aux? not that that solves your problems as you still need to find the source that is flatening your start

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by weeds View Post
    i thought the traxide isolators only isolate the batteries when both batteries are reduced to a pre-determine voltage therefore your aux battery will not be fully charged........

    can you override the isolator so that you can start from the aux? not that that solves your problems as you still need to find the source that is flatening your start
    They will actually isolate both ways (help Tim?). So if as the voltage drops to a determined level, it isolates the batteries. If the load is on the main side then it will just continue and flatten the main battery. I do carry a cable to link the two batteries, but because of the nature of this it only ever happens at home. So i just put the charger on it.
     2005 Defender 110 

  4. #4
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    You need to think of everything in terms of amp hours. Ready to be shot down in flames but here's some thoughts :

    Now your fully charged, new condition 100 amp/hour battery could, in theory, provide 1 amp for 100 hours, or 100 amps for 1 hour, or any variation in between ( actually it would'nt supply that high a current for that long due to other factors e.g heat )

    So at .007 amps current draw, ( or 7 milliamps ) as you have measured, I worked out ( hopefully correctly ) that your battery should last 14285 hrs or 595 days. Actually 7 mA is quite low, that's less than 1 LED would draw, so I'm suspecting that number is not right if you're running a couple of things permanently. ( not sure what those anti rust devices draw ).

    If you have read it incorrectly and it is actually .07 amps or something ( 70 mA) ,which sounds more realistic to me, the battery should last 59 days. ( 8 weeks )

    However that would be a very flat battery at the end of that time - to get it beyond the point where it won't have enough residual "oomph" to turn the starter motor would be considerably less time. ( perhaps half that ?)

    So a few possibilities :

    1. your meter is reading incorrectly and residual current drain is a lot higher.
    2. something of a higher current is switching in and draining your battery when you are not "looking".
    3. your battery is not fully charged to begin with.

    You can get little "float" or "trickle" battery chargers that will keep the battery topped up - even a little solar panel would help - I've seen thme in places like SuperCheap and even K Mart.

  5. #5
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    Try disconnecting your "electroninc rust proofer" thingy, and see if that improves things.

    I leave my 110 for 3 or 4 weeks at a time and it starts happily, but it is bog standard and doesn't even have an alarm. If I try that with the Rangie, it will flatten the battery in 3 weeks so obviously more "stuff" drawing current.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by spudboy View Post
    Try disconnecting your "electroninc rust proofer" thingy, and see if that improves things.

    I leave my 110 for 3 or 4 weeks at a time and it starts happily, but it is bog standard and doesn't even have an alarm. If I try that with the Rangie, it will flatten the battery in 3 weeks so obviously more "stuff" drawing current.
    thanks for the ideas! I checked the charge this morning and it is charging like a Trojan. I drove it across town and it was consantly on 14.4 and only dropped to 13.9 at the end of the trip.

    I will check all those things when I get the car back tonight or tomorrow.
     2005 Defender 110 

  7. #7
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    Drive it more often!

  8. #8
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    Our Defender also only gets driven occasionally. I too have noticed voltage drops in the cranker.

    I'll check the voltage after a country trip when I get home with the vehicle turned off. The voltage will typically be 13.2 - 13.00 Volts.

    After say 2 weeks of no use - it can be as low as 12.4V. The deep cycle battery (also initially 13.2 - 13.00V) is at this same voltage - we have the traxide too.

    I haven't ever found the traxide isolate the cranker when the vehicle is sitting idle under the house, but 2 weeks is about as long as I can go without a drive in it!
    2007 Defender 110
    2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
    1993 BMW R100LT
    2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black

  9. #9
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    The Traxide should disconnect the main battery from aux battery well before the starting battery gets below the voltage needed to kick over the starter motor. ( light will start flashing when this happens ). Mine always does this OK.

    As an extra comfort measure, you might like to consider a separate switch in the + line that goes from your main battery to the Traxide, so when you're leaving it or a couple of weeks, so you can completely isolate that side of things manually.

    You need to be completely sure only "essential services" are running when you have it in storage.

  10. #10
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    what's essential?
    the clock? the radio presets? is there anything essential to keep powered up in a defender over time?

    when my county is sitting around waiting for the next trip, the battery isolator key is removed and there is no current going anywhere - it can last months (it has!) without the key being turned over and without lost charge.

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