Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: sick defender

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    66
    Total Downloaded
    0
    lambrover im going to replace injectors try bio diesel change filters again and put new oil in her then if all fails ill give her a comp test and think about forking out for a rebuild mate which i dont think will be cheap till last week she started first touch of the key so i dont think she should be in that bad condition touch wood ive had other diesel where they were so worn that they struggled to start . what i can i say one can hope that something goes well mate .thank you again

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    66
    Total Downloaded
    0
    lambrover another thing i forgot to mention is till this problem started last week i could change the oil in her and it wouldnt show signs of dirt for a few weeks the oil actually stayed clean for quite a while this time ive changed the ouil on sunday hardly drove the her but monday the oil was already dirty that was weird mate

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    old injectors not patterning properly till theyve heated up...

    Fozzy does it but I also think Im having valve stem issues or Ive got a couple of sticking rings.

    its also not helped by lowered compression due to wear.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    66
    Total Downloaded
    0
    thanx blknight im going to try injectors first mate ive already ordered them and then see what else it could be from there i worked for 2 years in brissy wish i knew you then we could have caught up and gone and done some 4wdriving mate i was living in eight mile plain not that far from ipswich any how im up that way early next year will let you know and catch up with you for a beer mate my son lives in rocky so i drive past your way on my way there .thanx again mate and hopefully ill work this out without having to rebuild her and if i have to well that be i love the old girl too much . im looking for a series 3 tray might look arounf qld as when i was uop there i saw a few and when i lived in townville and cairns there were a lot of them around definetly more then i saw in melbourne once i moved down here mate..

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If it is difficult to start cold, and the smoke stinks like unburnt diesel, then my first port of call is fuel timing.
    Forget glow plugs, a Tdi will start without them.
    When did it last have a timing belt? What were the valve clearances set to?
    It is also possible that the front crank pulley bolt is loose, and causing the keyway on the crank gear to flog out causing mistiming.
    Check these things immediately, as the longer you leave it the more it will cost to fix. (can be as bad as a new crankshaft for example)


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    melbourne
    Posts
    66
    Total Downloaded
    0
    thanx jc timing belt was done ten thousand ks ago as far as valve clearences ive got no idea i havent checked them and front crank pulley i havent checked but best i do that now that you,ve mentioned it . with that keyway been out and timing been out because of it wouldnt it run bad when shes hot as well as when she,s cold obviously im no mechanic so thats why i ask you guys thanx again jc

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Kingston, Tassie, OZ.
    Posts
    13,728
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by mills rover View Post
    thanx jc timing belt was done ten thousand ks ago as far as valve clearences ive got no idea i havent checked them and front crank pulley i havent checked but best i do that now that you,ve mentioned it . with that keyway been out and timing been out because of it wouldnt it run bad when shes hot as well as when she,s cold obviously im no mechanic so thats why i ask you guys thanx again jc
    Not necessarily so. A few degrees retarded will cause difficulty starting from cold, but will start readily hot and still have reasonable power. I'll put it this way, IF it is the problem and it gets rectified, you'd notice a power increase when hot running. Like worn shocks, you don't realise how bad they are until you fit the ne ones...

    Checking the pump timing is easy, your's dosen't have A/C right?

    Remove the cover plate at the front of the injector pump on the front cover. (3 bolts, tin plate)
    rotate engine until the 'u' shaped slot in the front of the pump gear is about at 10:30 O'clock.
    You should be able to fit a 3/8"(NOT 10mm) bolt or drill bit shank into the pump through this aperture. If not, gently rotate the engine back and forth until the tool can be slid in about 50 to 60mm,.
    Next, climb underneath the vehicle and remove the wading plug from the bottom of the bellhousing(If it is fitted) and look up to see (hopefully) a slot machined in the flywheel, central to the hole you are looking through. If the slot lines up and the timing pin is in the pump, the timing is fine.
    If the slot isn't visible, there is a serious timing issue. If one side is visible, the problem is definately timing. This equates to about 2 or 3 degrees, and it is enough to cause poor starting from cold and smoke.

    To adjust: visually centralise the slot in the hole, or use a timing pin tool to lock the crankshaft. loosen gently the 3 bolts holding the gear to the front of the injector pump through the front cover plate. While doing this, make sure you hold the main nut on the end of the injector pump steady with a 7/8" ring spanner. Keep hold of this nut while the 3 bolts are loosened, and rotate it slowly until the timing pin,(3/8" bolt) slips into the front of the pump body through the gear. When this has occurred, tighten the 3 bolts on the front of the pump, and remove the 3/8" bolt. rotate the engine 2 full turns and check that the slot in the bellhousing hole is central while the timing pin can be inserted. remember to make certain the pin and the locking tool(if used) are OUT and in your hand when you touch the ignition key


    I expect a full report tomorrow.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!