Thread: County Brakes

They are out of a 1994 Defender, I changed out the rusty fire wall with a defender one when I turned it into an extra cab. The pedal is much lighter that my fathers 1990 County.
As far as I know they were the same for quite a while.
Tim

Originally Posted by Red Rocket

One thing County owners need to know is that the rear brake shoes are not all the same. There is no mention in the workshp manual of the fact that the adjusting pins on the shoes are in different places on the leading and trailing shoes. Put them on the wrong way round and you will always have too much pedal travel and poor brakes. Check that the pin is directly opposite the centre shaft of the snail cam adjuster. Above or below is incorrect. If you have had exchange shoes fitted you could have the wrong ones. These shoes are not interchangerable with pre 110 models even though they look the same. If a garage has overhauled your brakes, they could have mixed the shoes up on reassembly and have 2 fleading shoes on one side and trailing on the other.
Red Rocket.

That should be a sticky.
Its about Wright for what I had before I pulled it all down for a look, and I was put on the correct track buy a couple of people before hand.

The right hand rear had shoes to small, and the drum was over size anyway. Left rear was around the correct way but over size drum again.

before I pulled it down I had already decided to just replace everything, cant be bothered trying to match bits and get drums relined etc etc, the only thing I would ever get done would be SS liners in the slaves.

She stops well now. All I am concerned about is my 5'9" 50KG wife will not manage a panic stop to well, hence why I am look at options to lighten the peddle a bit. hoping a bigger diameter booster would do the trick.

As to rear disks, I was shown a pile of undersized rear disks ranging from 40 000 klm to 60 000 klm before replacement. it seems that the disks and pads do not stand up to being to dirty for to long.

Originally Posted by clean32

That should be a sticky.
<snip>

Something like this?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/6...ientation.html

I fitted rear discs on my 88 county for just under $400 for the lot and about 1hours work,used the salisbury caibler bracket 95 disco hubs discs and capilers and made up the new brake line to suit,stops awsome and dont have to worry about the mud any more

...the Salisbury what bracket?

Originally Posted by bretto

I fitted rear discs on my 88 county for just under $400 for the lot and about 1hours work,used the salisbury caibler bracket 95 disco hubs discs and capilers and made up the new brake line to suit,stops awsome and dont have to worry about the mud any more

well as i siad before, after seeing a pile of cut out disks and being told that thay were only 40-60 000 klms old, it all starts to sound a bit exspencive.

as the majority of brakeing comes from the frount anyway, i just need to sort out a way how to get a bit more efort to the frount disks. only an issue when fully loaded realy.

Originally Posted by clean32

where, i was quoted for disks pads and calipers all second hand $800 or a replacement dif for 1200. and the disks look like thay were end of life or close to it.

Clean32

Phone Brirish Off Road in Queensland - they can help with all the bits to do the conversion 07 5445 1094 and should be reasonably priced - they ship parts all over Australia

CHT