Thread: TD5 Dual Mass Flywheel upgrade advice....

Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon

Hi All,
I need to replace a clutch in a Defender TD5 thats used a lot for heavy towing, is remapped and needs to be reliable. Current mileage 30,000 miles (48,000km).

Options available:
1. Simply replace the clutch, cover, release bearing with LandRover/OE kit
2. As above but with AP Driveline (previously Borg & Beck ??) clutch plate ide go with this option and a new OE DM flywheel.
3. Replace the Dual Mass Flywheel with a solid one and uprate the clutch plate, cover and release bearing in the pursuit or longer reliability?? for heavy towing i wouldnt use a solid flywheel.

Has anyone used a Solid flywheel on a TD5. Is there much induced chatter/noise etc etc? Are they smooth to use? Ive heard about them before but have no experience of them...

Any thoughts welcomed...

ive just replaced my clutch assy, all with OE parts, i tow a camper tralier and sometimes car trailers, 90 is chipped and i think that a soild FW would cause havoc with the drive line.

cheers phil

last time I priced it all up its cheaper to go the EOM parts than the after market parts....

in theory the dual mas fly wheel also helps by acting like a harmonic balancer without which its feasable to damage other stuff.

I cant see the gearbox liking a single mass flywheel having watched how much the td5 vibrates at idle

If I knew that It was never going to be operated in a manner that would need the dual mass (Ie driven full stick all the time) then Id probabley go it in a heart beat but In reality, like you, Im waiting for some real life info to come about on the sinlge mass and not just stuff from the manufacturers,

Although if you apply the "you only ever hear the bad news" rule to the interentet I havent heard of any problems with them that isnt conjecture so they might be great.

Originally Posted by Yorkshire_Jon

Hi All,
I need to replace a clutch in a Defender TD5 thats used a lot for heavy towing, is remapped and needs to be reliable. Current mileage 30,000 miles (48,000km).



Any thoughts welcomed...

Just curious on why you have to change the clutch at 30,000 miles?

I pulled my TD5 Disco apart and changed the clutch at 180,000ks and the clutch plate was still like new. I had a noisy spiggot bush.

I would also keep the dual mass flywheel for the reasons already stated.

Cheers,
Erich

I'm suggesting 4HP24EH with compushift sounds like the go here...

Seriously though, Dual mass flywheel is there for a reason. Just because some frequencies/ harmonic vibrations sometimes are not intrusive, doesn't mean they aren't doing any harm. I would say that a fair amount of FEA went into the design of the Td5 and it's inherent characteristics. Stick with the OE setup.

JC

Thanks for the input guys...

Clutch needs changing cos its starting to slip under high torque demand.

The car had a new gearbox (replaced by LR under warranty) about 9 months ago... Dont know if that has any bearing on it. Either way they wont change the clutch under warranty.

Ive run TDi's with 130,000 miles on the original clutch before. Was expecting the TD5 to get to at least 80,000. That said, this one does do a lot of heavy towing. Im also wondering if a stage 2 remap combined with the towing is the issue.

Thinking out loud though... 99% of clutch wear occurs when setting off. So even towing a heavy trailer with a remaped TD5, you arent putting much more than standard power through the clutch, therefore perhaps the remap has nothing to do with it.

Similarly its never had a time when the clutch has had any real hammer. Trailered hill starts, recovery etc etc...

I have run TD5s for years with similar remaps but not regular towing and they have never shown signs of failure (not upto 50,000 miles anyway).

My initial thought was to simply change the clutch plate, cover and release baring. Then I was told that there is a good chance that (because of the heavy towing) the dual mass flywheel may be well on its way out. I dont want to have to go back in there again in 6 months time, so will want to do everything at once. Problem is the dm flywheels are expensive!

I am at a bit of a loss as to why this one is failing so early and so am considering all options at the moment.

Im a bit over keen on replacing an machining flywheels
but to do all the work on mine (wheel, plate and pressure plate + the engine mounts) with the next service Im not getting any change out of $2500 (including all the service items)

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Im a bit over keen on replacing an machining flywheels
but to do all the work on mine (wheel, plate and pressure plate + the engine mounts) with the next service Im not getting any change out of $2500 (including all the service items)

If I decide to replace the flywheel, clutch, cover, bearing with solid and uprated (rated at taking more torque than ecu is delivering) then Im looking at AU $1800. Lucky I can do the work myself so dont need labour costs as well!

Im just not sure at the moment!! Part of me firmly believes that the DM flywheel is there for a technical reason to gain longevity and reliability rather than for commercial gain or simply to lighten the springs and thus the pedal. The other side of me says that it hasnt lasted long and other people are seeing them fail fairly regualrly (at least here in the UK), typically between 25,000 and 50,000 miles. That would mean that mine's anywhere between half knackered and about sha**ed.

Given they are expensive to replace and I am going to be keeping the vehicle, perhaps I should bite the bullet. Nothing ventured, nothing gained so to speak...

I really need to find someone with a solid one to speak to!!

my 90's on its 2nd clutch assy in 60 000k's first 1 was sorted under warrenty but the next i did my self. try rover craft for a price, i paid a fair bit less than your price

but i do maintain that if another clutch goes in anything less than 50 000 theres a bloody auto going in

cheers phil