Thread: TD5 - ABS/TC lights GOLD

On my 2000 defender there are 2 pin plugs for each sensor and is about 1/2 a metre of wire on each sensor to the plug. You can unplug them and replace them in a couple of minutes. Poor bugger, i have also lights coming on Trac and ABS. and sometimes the brake light. At the moment they are off then they will come on for a couple of months. Had it everywhere. The sensors are ok and are all pulsing when jacked up and all wheels turning. Brakes have had all new pads to stop shudder still no good. Comes up with faults in 2 steers and on one rear sensor. Also check if you have been over corrugations, that the sensors are firmly located in as if they move out a little they will fault.

Originally Posted by mike_beecham

Hi Boys

Just dropped the Defender back to LR dealer to have the wheel speed sensors replaced (Under Wty). Indicated by the ABS/TC lights staying illuminated in the dash.

Apparenty it is a full loom from the rear of the vehicle to the front. So it is big $$ ($1300 l beleive for the loom). You'd think LR would make it so you could just replace the sensor itself????

Mike

Mike - That's just not true. I had the same issue - both the front ABS sensors were shot. These were replaced without any other parts. If you take a look - there are a number of places along the loom where there is a 2 pin plug that can easily be taken apart.

Originally Posted by mike_beecham

Hi Boys

Just dropped the Defender back to LR dealer to have the wheel speed sensors replaced (Under Wty). Indicated by the ABS/TC lights staying illuminated in the dash.

Apparenty it is a full loom from the rear of the vehicle to the front. So it is big $$ ($1300 l beleive for the loom). You'd think LR would make it so you could just replace the sensor itself???? They started this job on Tuesday - did not realise it was a full loom to be replaced, took until Friday to work it out. So needed vehicle over Christmas - so l took it back Monday to be sorted out! Gold.

Other issue - fuel pump stops pumping fuel when l either:
1. Go to start it. i.e. wont turn over as their is no fuel being pumped. Eventually though it works again and all is ok?
The dash: Temp gauge swings around to HOT?
2. Pulling up to lights or a complete stop. Engine cuts out. But will re-start.

Other symptoms:?
Seems like there is a 'delay' at high speeds (80-100km/h) in the thing getting power. Takes some time to really get it moving...longer than it should l reckon?

Told dealer all of this - so see what they come up with.



Oh - and they did give me a loan car this time - a Daihatsu Sirion....hmmm. It is quiter than the Defender though!?


Mike

Hi, Have 2000 td5 defender, not exactly related but would not start, turn key,temperature gauge went to hot (red)would not start, wait and it cleared sometimes and started and ran, then sometimes started,when idling oil light came on for few seconds, engine ran rough, light went off, idled ok again, ran an extra earth strap on ecu to chassis and cleaned orginal earth no problem since, found this off google, realise it may not help everything but may eliminate something for you so yoiu can find other problem

Thanks guys -

The fuel issue was a faulty relay of all things. Well - that is what was replaced and l have had no probelms since!

The sensors were replaced - l haven't looked at what they replaced exactly, but Scallops l was fairly sure that even LR would not have engineered such a silly way of replacing sensors.


Cheers again.


Mike