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Thread: Rear Shock Absorbers

  1. #1
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    Rear Shock Absorbers

    On my 110 overland vehicle which has X springs fitted to the rear I seem to destroy the rear shock absorbers.

    So any advice on what shock absorbers to fit?

    Currently considering Ralph shock absorbers which have a 5 year/100,000 miles warrenty. Any good or bad experiences with these shocks?

    Regards


    Brendan

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by leeds View Post
    On my 110 overland vehicle which has X springs fitted to the rear I seem to destroy the rear shock absorbers.

    So any advice on what shock absorbers to fit?

    Currently considering Ralph shock absorbers which have a 5 year/100,000 miles warrenty. Any good or bad experiences with these shocks?

    Regards


    Brendan
    Hi Brendan,

    If by Ralph you mean Tough Dog Ralph shocks, don't go there. They can't stand up to constant pounding as far as I've seen.
    Koni, Bilstein, or DeCarbon, and if you are loading it up and driving hard or for long periods in high temps on bad roads,(IE Outback Australia) then I would seriously consider a twin fitment to the rear. Alternatively, I can recommend some custom ones that will do the job, but at $900au each they are pretty exxy!

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #3
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    Yes it is Tough Dog Ralphs I am considering.

    Used to run Pro Comp +4" shocks after fitting the X springs. They lasted 8,000 miles (13,000 km). Problem was shocks bottoming out on Eastern European roads. Fitted raised shock mounts and extreme +8" shocks. No bottoming out problems but not up to the job.

    So looking for alternatives

    Regards


    Brendan

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by leeds View Post
    Yes it is Tough Dog Ralphs I am considering.

    Used to run Pro Comp +4" shocks after fitting the X springs. They lasted 8,000 miles (13,000 km). Problem was shocks bottoming out on Eastern European roads. Fitted raised shock mounts and extreme +8" shocks. No bottoming out problems but not up to the job.

    So looking for alternatives

    Regards


    Brendan
    Well, you can't really say the shocks arnt good enough if you had them bottoming out all the time.... Even the best shocks in the world wont last if you keep bottoming them out....

    After you fitted the new ones, what was wrong with them, why wernt they up to the job.... i run procomps and they seem fine to me..

  5. #5
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    Hi Mikey, I did not mean to knock the Pro Comp shocks. In Eastern Europe on the bitumen roads out there you come across deep transverse ruts, hit those at 80kph and the bump stops get compressed and the shocks bottom out. Hence why I went for raised shock mounts and extended travel shocks so that if hit the bump stops the shocks are not bottomed out.

    These roads are their main highways and the only warning you get is if you see someone suddenly braking ahead of you. These transverse ruts are probably caused by poorly back filled and compacted service trenches.

    Personally I think the +8" shocks were not man enough for the rear of a laden overland vehicle when fitted from new. The rear end of the 110 'kangaroo's' now after going over a relative small bump after 25,000 miles in Australia

    Hence why I am looking for advice on suitable replacements shocks. The Tough Dog Ralphs have been mentioned as possibly suitable due to the larger diameters. It has also been suggested that I consider twin rear shocks.

    Just trying to gather information/advice before the 110 goes in for major TLC

    Regards

    Brendan

  6. #6
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    Off the shelf that will bolt up to OE type mounts ?

    Koni Raid, otherwise what Justin suggests re a proper off road race damper with a 2.5" piston, or dual standard type Bilstein's or Koni's.

    Koni's Raid has a 41mm piston, 70mm body diameter and should be better reliability than any other twin tube off the shelf damper.
    They are designed as a bolt on for Rally/Raid use in stock type FIA classes. IIRC they only have 8"or so of stroke, but there are two lengths available, one for standard height the other for 50mm lifted suspension.
    I'll dig up the open/closed lengths.

    I'm unsure as to what fluid they use in the Raid, I haven't had much to do with new Koni's in the last several years but they needed to use a better fluid than they did in the past in the standard twin tube Heavy Track's.
    If this was replaced with either Silkolene Pro RSF in the appropriate viscosity (have to look at my notes) or Primus' excellent fluid, fade will be reuced dramatically.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Off the shelf that will bolt up to OE type mounts ?

    Koni Raid, otherwise what Justin suggests re a proper off road race damper with a 2.5" piston, or dual standard type Bilstein's or Koni's.

    Koni's Raid has a 41mm piston, 70mm body diameter and should be better reliability than any other twin tube off the shelf damper.
    They are designed as a bolt on for Rally/Raid use in stock type FIA classes. IIRC they only have 8"or so of stroke, but there are two lengths available, one for standard height the other for 50mm lifted suspension.
    I'll dig up the open/closed lengths.

    I'm unsure as to what fluid they use in the Raid, I haven't had much to do with new Koni's in the last several years but they needed to use a better fluid than they did in the past in the standard twin tube Heavy Track's.
    If this was replaced with either Silkolene Pro RSF in the appropriate viscosity (have to look at my notes) or Primus' excellent fluid, fade will be reuced dramatically.
    I fitted 4 heavy tracks to the back of a 110 a while back. It was way too stiff for normal use, and the owner removed the extras for day to day work, but in the Simpson and the CSR it was able to be driven at continuous speed ove horrific corrugations and humps for hours without fadeHe also reported it to be a lot less taxing to drive because of the superior control in these conditions. the vehicle was fully laden and had extra water, fuel, roof rack, etc etc .
    I am convinced of the merit of researching and fitting decent shocks/ springs as the main focus of vehicle prep in these circumstances. Notwithstanding the ride quality and control, driver fatigue plays a big part in safe remote area travel.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  8. #8
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    Koni Raid for the rear of 110/130's. Incorporate a hydraulic rebound stop for topping out.
    pt. # 90-5401 (for lifts 30mm to 55mm)

    Open 607mm
    Closed 391mm

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    I fitted 4 heavy tracks to the back of a 110 a while back. It was way too stiff for normal use, and the owner removed the extras for day to day work, but in the Simpson and the CSR it was able to be driven at continuous speed ove horrific corrugations and humps for hours without fadeHe also reported it to be a lot less taxing to drive because of the superior control in these conditions. the vehicle was fully laden and had extra water, fuel, roof rack, etc etc .
    I am convinced of the merit of researching and fitting decent shocks/ springs as the main focus of vehicle prep in these circumstances. Notwithstanding the ride quality and control, driver fatigue plays a big part in safe remote area travel.

    JC
    I remember when you first posted about that JC.
    Apparently the twin shock rear is a popular mod for SA too.

    The Raid is a good choice for this application too as it's a bolt on which suits a lot of people well, notwithstanding their big retail price, but it may work out cheaper than adding in the fab cost of extra mounts + dampers.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    I remember when you first posted about that JC.
    Apparently the twin shock rear is a popular mod for SA too.

    The Raid is a good choice for this application too as it's a bolt on which suits a lot of people well, notwithstanding their big retail price, but it may work out cheaper than adding in the fab cost of extra mounts + dampers.
    yeah I was thinking about that, it was a fair time ago, in fact one of the first ones I did. Have done about 6 more since then, D1's and RR's too.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

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