Thread: recovery points standard?

For the rear you can get an alloy block with a large shackle attached that goes in the square hole that your towbar sits in. It is easily removable when you are no longer offroad.

you can get them from tjm.

Hi Brad
at the risk of being "flamed"

I mentioned in a previous post the reference to ADR Technical...what this shows clearly is that to recover a bogged vehicle by applying force where the radius arm meets the live axle is more effective than applying the force to the chassis...you are exerting an "uplift" force at the wheels rather than trying to pull the chassis off the suspension...

see also YiCaN introduces Axle Direct Recovery. Website:www.yican.com.au

So

My suggestion is that you accurately measure the distance between the centres of the two bolts holding the radius arm to the front axle.

Get a local machine shop to cut you two brackets from 5/16th steel plate which is drilled to fit both bolts and has a larger hole at the front to take a 4.5T shackle.

You can then purchase a 3-4 T rated swaged 9mm or 10 mm x 3m lifting sling from a crane or elevator suppliers (about $50)

This makes an excellent bridle to pull evenly. If you wish you even clamp the middle part of the bridle 500mm each side of the centre to make a "noose" through which the towing rope is attached....as per referenced article pictures

The beauty of this arrangement is that it takes only a minute or so to attach the shackles to the permanently located brackets and you have instant, mechanically sound recovery points...

Nice idea Hoges, would it not be worth getting a cable rated a little bit heavier just to be safe ie 6-8 T. How much is the elevator cable you mentioned rated at? I was thinking of heading off to Bullivants and obtaining some offcut like you described.

Just buying a cable lifting sling might be a whole lot simpler though.

Thinking about it, if you attached the brackets like you mentioned you could simply attach a tree trunk protector strap with a couple of shackles instead of the cable sling.

Hiya Hoges,

I'm so far behind in knowledge that your first post didn't even register in my brain. I still have almost no clue about the specifics of what you're saying, but I can now see a way to figure it out. Very much appreciated.

gday mate there are quite a few good options in Perth, Rovacraft you already know of but also ORE in Midland, speak to Jeremy and Central 4WD in welshpool carry rated 'tow' points that you can recover off.

There is a Guy called Russ at Opposite Lock in Myaree who is a bit of a Landy guru as well

It is always a good idea to use a bridle between the two rated tow points when recovering.

oh and welcome

Thanks for the tips Spenboyd. Looks like I've had a stroke of luck. Local Land Rover shop can get JATE rings in 2 weeks. That means I can go do my Eureka course and then have a good proper think about the posts here. Will be 1 million times better than attaching a Prado part to my Defender.

Thinking about it, if you attached the brackets like you mentioned you could simply attach a tree trunk protector strap with a couple of shackles instead of the cable sling.


I preferred the steel cable because dragging the tree protector through mud/sand etc causes abrasion -> weakening of the strap.

Bullivants are an excellent source. The steel cable sling I got was rated at three tons (min).

I'm not a fan of snatch straps...too dangerous, lotza damage in the wrong hands. Can't always trust the bloke in the other vehicle. what's more they put enormous stresses on both vehicles.

Slow and steady pulling + lifting "by the bootstraps" is much easier.
Put it another way, when you put your back into trying to shift a bogged car, the usual reaction is to try to "lift" and "push/pull" at the same time.


When you think about it, the rolling force needed to shift a vehicle is a lot less than the weight of the vehicle... Think about the advert of the car towing the B747 out of the hangar..

6-8Ton for example is way past the structural limit of the tow hitch of normal 4WD vehicles.

JATE rings look terrific /tough! on big army trucks etc they're probably the right choice. However when affixed to our type of vehicle they don't overcome the inevitable problem of a shearing force created through the suspension /chassis linkages as the chassis is pulled one way while the bog retains the wheels...

Same criticism of using the towbar...it doesn't get over the need to pull the vehicle up by the bootstraps as it were....


A simple rectangular bracket of 8mm steel plate rounded off at each corner say 100 mm x 60mm with a hole at one end for the front axle/radius rod bolt and a (slightly) larger hole for the shackle (leaving plenty of "meat" around each hole) should do the trick...leave the bracket in place, just connect the shackle /sling when needed!

cheers

PS : asOIO

I would be keen to hear how you find your new 110...for noise/ride etc. Been lusting after a dark blue one for sale here in Bris. However SWMBO just getting used to the P38. But the Def110 is a REAL "shed on wheels" ...and every boy needs a shed!