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Thread: fitted long travel shocks

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    fitted long travel shocks

    well I have made new front and rear shock mounts and fitted new springs. I have a problem with my rear up travel as the tyer rubs on the spring tower, so looks like I need neg offset rims, any one got suggestions on how much offset. my next drama is to decide on retained springs or dilocating, I am thinking of trying both and then make up my mind.
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  2. #2
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    well Psimpson is doing some relocation cones in the markets area at a very reasonable price and they look very well made....mine are already brought and paid for

    as I always wanted to just retain my springs but at the cost of getting a kit from the states I just went for these from pete.i'm not actually out to get my travel as far as poss i'm just out to keep my springs from unseating
    Our Land Rover does not leak oil! it just marks its territory.......




  3. #3
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    Yep same here i bought some cones off Psimpson7
    Your suspension setup looks great!!!

  4. #4
    Tombie Guest
    I like your front mounts, but "2" uprights wont be enough... Trust me...

    If I was you I'd suggest fitting one on the opposing side too...

    Offroad and corrugations will bend it!

  5. #5
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    tombie thanks mate, but there is another rod you can't see that is behind the shock, I'll get another photo. the front mounts are made from 16mm solid rod so they are very strong.
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  6. #6
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    im running an 80mm backspace, but thats with 285's. you need to decide on the width of the tyre you want to run and work it out from there.
    if you stick to the skinnys you would only need to go out a further 30mm.
    standard disco rims i reckon would work, their 135mm BS i think??

    can you rotate your bottom front shock mount 90 deg? it would bind alot less if the eye was running inline with the chassis (not in line with the diff)

    cheers phil

  7. #7
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    130 rims (20.6mm offset) don't seem to rub, so you only need 1/2" more than the OE rim (33mm) unless you use a baggy tyre.

    I prefer retained, having run both.
    Yes, it reduces the rear travel a bit, but it tends to force the front to work a bit better rather than everything happening on the back, and feels a bit more secure off road IMO, particularly with the big mis-match in spring and roll rates in my 130.
    Last edited by rick130; 18th March 2009 at 12:45 PM. Reason: added words to make sense

  8. #8
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    This is the rear springs retained on mine. Used a customers fork a couple of weeks back
    Second pic shows the nearside front nearly dislocating at the same time, (17" spring, 10" shock) so the articulation is fairly balanced with the chassis staying as level as it can. I'm pretty sure you'd find this wouldn't happen with the rear dislocating.
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  9. #9
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    Nicely done, your rear setup is almost identical to mine, i have my lower mounts in the same direction as yours, slightly rotated in, it was the only way to get the ping to eye convertor to sit right and i have no issues with shock binding, but i am using small eye shocks not big eye.

    How much have you raised the front shocks and whats the closed and open lengths you are using, i have 32 extended with about 14.5 in of travel in the rear, i have the same for the front but im considering using something shorted up front when i do it as raising the front towers that much may not be possible before i hit the bonnet!

  10. #10
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    thanks for the posts every one. Cal the hight of my front shock mount is 250mm from the top of the spring tower to the CL of the hole at the top of the shock tower. Yes you are right I had a look at how you made the rear top brakets before I made mine, I have 12.8in of travel in the rear shocks. Disco white yep I can see what you are talking about with the mount and I will be making some new ones soon. I want to run at least 255/85/16s or 285/75/16s
    can't make up my mind yet.

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