Thread: Stock Defender 110 height?

There is a third option where you do not have to use power tool's , well except a rattle gun!
Get 6 steel wheels+ 255/85 r16 bfg/simex muddies AND 4 16x8 inch aloy/chrome wheels with street rubber( say 255-285/45-55 that way you dont lose any stability) that lowers the car 2-3 inches. Use the street wheels during the week + for inside the garage and park outside on weekends/ trips. Also get an aerial on your front bullbar that is 2 in. taller than your car as you may forget you have the offroad tyres on and try to drive into an undercover carpark!( seen it done)
This would be cheaper in the long run than rebuilding/ cutting the floor out of your garage and your expensive off road tyres will last longer for off road and you can do cheaper k's on road with road tyres.

Originally Posted by Nera Donna

I went throught the same thing. Garage door height opened = 2090mm. It just fits. Freaks me out every time, I look through the sun roof and watch the edge of the door go overhead. Have someone spot you the first time you park it up. Good luck.

Arrgghh....I have 30mm LESS to play with.....

First time we drove into the apartment carpark I refused to believe that there wasn't more than 2.1m clearance. Got the tape measure and to the underside of the entry doors is was about 2.3m, so thought no probs. Forgot to measure all of the services. But just snuck under the fire sprinkler system, with maybe 20mm to spare.



Worst part was the power steering belt was stuffed and every turn of the wheel caused a squeal, strangly like an aluminium roof being ripped of by an overhead sewer/stormwater service pipe. But with a spotter got in alright.

Matt.

Tony,
I cut out 50mm in the overhead wooden beam to fit my 110 [leaving 30mm clearance when empty - no fuel & no cargo] and I kept the cutout to a minimum width [about 150mm wider than the car]. I watch carefully when backing in and thus far the carport remains intact. cheers

Originally Posted by greenextreme

Tony,
I cut out 50mm in the overhead wooden beam to fit my 110 [leaving 30mm clearance when empty - no fuel & no cargo] and I kept the cutout to a minimum width [about 150mm wider than the car]. I watch carefully when backing in and thus far the carport remains intact. cheers

Yes, this is what I plan to do as the wooden beam is about 12" x 2"...I will notch out a good 50mm across the whole width of the carport....

I have to admit that there was a part of me that was keen to chuck her in 1st low and just go for it.....be one hell of a sunroof though....
Thanks,
Tony2

Originally Posted by one_iota

One Defender parked outside is worth Two Pajeros in the carport.

Now that is almost worthy of a signature!!

Just get a compressor and Stauns

Originally Posted by Tony2

Yes, this is what I plan to do as the wooden beam is about 12" x 2"...I will notch out a good 50mm across the whole width of the carport....

It might be worth getting a structural engineer's opinion before you do this.

The addition of some structural steel to the beam might save you from a collapsed-carport-roof-crushed Defender and might even allow you to take out more than 50mm.

Originally Posted by greenextreme

...I cut out 50mm in the overhead wooden beam to fit my 110 ...

Originally Posted by Tony2

...I will notch out a good 50mm across the whole width of the carport....

50mm from 300mm is reducing the beam's depth by 16%. It is 300mm for a reason.

Originally Posted by one_iota

It might be worth getting a structural engineer's opinion before you do this...

God yes! Don't just go chopping structural depth of any roof members without checking that it will still do the job. Remember beams are sized not just to take the dead load of whatever they're holding up (eg. roof) but the live load of anyone walking on top and wind loads. Whilst most of the engineers I work with tend to oversize beams, if it's a simple car port type structure the members are probably sized just right to save some money.