Thread: Noise and Heat Insulation

Yeah i was just having a look at teh site its fantastic but yeah not all there ?

So Im looking at this issue again and am wondering how I would go about achieving the noise insulation for the roof and marine style carpeting. Can one just go over the other ? Could an automoticve trimmer place do this for me ?

Originally Posted by VladTepes

Yeah i was just having a look at teh site its fantastic but yeah not all there ?

So Im looking at this issue again and am wondering how I would go about achieving the noise insulation for the roof and marine style carpeting. Can one just go over the other ? Could an automoticve trimmer place do this for me ?

If you already have ther roof panels, then LRHybrid100's method is the way to do. Take your insulation material of choice, cut it into panels that fit snugly between the roof framing, and use contact adhesive to stick it in place.

When that's all done, and you are happy with the state of the roof panels, refit them over the insulation. Otherwise, recover them with marine carpet, and then refit them over the insulation.

It should be a pretty straightforward operation (I'll be doing it in the next week or so), and personally I wouldn't bother with the additional expense of an automotive trimmer. That part is up to you

This may be of help,Car Soundproofing | Marine Soundproofing | Domestic Soundproofing | Industrial Soundproofing 0044161 652 7080

I won't be refittig the original hoodlining (if thats what you mean by roof panels) as removing it provides useful extra headroom.
Can you lay maribe carpet over insulation that's been contact-cemented in ? Would it hold long term ?


Grockle - a bity exe to import from the UK !

just after I got my 130, I grabbed a 4L can of body deadener from super cheap for about $40 and a $3 paintbrush.

I have painted the entire bottom of the truck, wheel arches and the inside of the roof with it. Its messy and is about as thick as tar, but the difference was amazing.

I hope to paint the inside of all 4 doors someday too.

Hello Vlad,
I know we have discussed this at an earlier time, and I have a thread in a previous post.

Just a word of caution, be weary of open celled foam, and lead mix materials. They absorb a lot of water, and you know how waterproof a Defender is.

I am looking at removing the roof lining and painting some anti drumming material there, and adding some 10mm closed celled foam with aluminium backing on it. I have purchased some in the past from Clarke Rubber for around $70 dollars a sheet. Part of the treatment will to be cut more noise, and part to cut the heat transmitted from the roof. Besides the firewall this is the last place to do.

The best heat treatment has been lead, aluminum shielding around the transmission tunnel, and into the footwells.

Once this house is sold, we are off to the beaches north of Cairns for a change of lifestyle. The air con struggles here in Melbourne, and to be honest, it is rarely used. Just put the windows down, and turn up the stereo. Up there might not be the best option if it is too humid (i.e.******* down rain).

Want to do this before the drive up, to make it a more comfortable and fun journey. Now just have to finish this house!!!!

Cheers,

Ken

I'm in the middle of doing the same thing myself. Maybe this will help...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ml#post1153186

Originally Posted by Fraz

just after I got my 130, I grabbed a 4L can of body deadener from super cheap for about $40 and a $3 paintbrush.

I have painted the entire bottom of the truck, wheel arches and the inside of the roof with it. Its messy and is about as thick as tar, but the difference was amazing.

I hope to paint the inside of all 4 doors someday too.

Hey Fraz,

Thanks for this tip.

The noise that rocks make when flicked up, hitting underneath the rear guards is deafening.

Wasn't sure what I was going to do, until now.

It would not be unreasonable to think that LR should have had this sorted by now.

Thanks anyway

Grant