Thread: Slack in the drive train - where do I look?

Also worth checking the splines on the rear axles/drive flanges as these can wear quite badly.

ive been through this nightmare (infact still am)
1. half shafts(side shafts) and flanges
2. uni joints and slip yolk on prop shafts
3. back lash in rear diff ( my issue, and seems expensive to get reset?)
4. diff in the transfer case
5. CV joints front axle
6. front half shafts and flanges
7. suspension bushes
8. shock absorbers

This entire list and I may have missed some thing all contribute to the "play"
I am 3/4 way through this list, but i have been told that all defenders have a bit of play- yet to quantify this though.
Regards
Mal

The input shaft on the transfer box can wear as well. (or is that the output shaft of the gearbox? )

Thanks for those responses.

I will do a test. I will jack up the back on one side, and with it in gear see how much of a turn I have in the wheel. Ditto for the front.

Next will be to determine what is making the biggest contribution to the slack.

I think the axle splines look good so universals will be the first port of call.

I jacked up the back and found I could rotate the wheel 150mm with it in gear. The front was even more...170mm.

Does anyone know what is "normal"?

Hi Jim, so you too have the dreaded clunk which is a topic of conversation in this section. I think we all have it a bit. Also check the ball joint on top of the rear diff. I had mine replaced a 202,000km and it removed a fair bit of it. From what I've read on this forum, PSimpson7's advice is on the mark. The diffs have been quoted here as being quite robust and most people point at the axle and hub splines as being the likely culprits. My def rolls about the same after the handbrake is on and I take my foot off the brake. Don't forget that only the tiniest bit of slack in the splines will be magnified by the time its extended to the running radius of the tyre.
cheers gerald

I spoke to a bloke the other day who said some people actually weld the hubs to the axles on the rear to take out any play. Heard of that one before?
cheers gerald

Ive heard that before but its only really a temporary get you out of trouble solution and means that you end up having to replace the entire rear setup rather than just the flanges.

the weld will likely crack aswell.