Thread: Through-Roof Spotlight

Yeeeee harrrrr you good ol' boys will look just the picture with one of those on the roof .......

now all you need's some banjo music

Ahh, 'know-it-all' city folk, gotta love 'em....

If you'd actually read my post instead of making stereotypical, anti-everything comments you would have seen this:

For normal everyday driving the handle and light would be removed from the mounting plate, and a plug fitted to stop rain coming in.

So what's your major gripe? The spotlight? My right to own a firearm? or the fact that I kill cute little furry things?

If you can get hold of some old computer hard drives (local repair should give them to you), demolish them gently and extract the magnets that control the little arm.
They are incredibly strong.
You should be able to make up a base of 13mm or thicker ply wood or similar, maybe laminex or similar on the top for the suction caps.
Araldite 3 magnets underneath to grip the roof, maybe use some furniture felt pads to protect the roof surface from the magnets.
cheers

Treads,
I accidently parked a 500kg steel portal on my defender roof... caved in the front section. smashed the frame surround and glass obviously.

Anyway point is in the rebuilding process all I did was get a new window frame, and then pushed and beat the rood back up to shape.

Once you pull away the roof lining you will reveal all! I would be building out of Al plate a frame that bolts to two of the 6 top bolts between turret and window frame. The frame is amazingly rigid (cast Al) and a frame of that will be solid. Then just punch a hole in the thin roof and Silastik is your friend.

Interestingly, despite my caved in roof look, the fender cab is now more watertight than before as I silastiked all around the frame, door seals etc etc.

Anyways, once you drop the front section of lining you will find lots of places to make a sturdy attachment point.

Steve

I have an almost exact match to the second picture mounted in the roof of my 130. I've never used it except to bump my head on, but just on the general grab-and-wiggle test I'd be looking at putting in something stiff under the headlining to stop the roof wobble if you want it to be still and drive at the same time.

Do you have a ute or wagon???

The wagon roof in the county has 3 strong ribs on the top. On the defender they removed two ribs and put the third in the middle of the underside.

If you can install it so that it passes through the rib it may be OK. However a better idea may be to get an AL plate and get it tig welded (or riveted) to the underneath of the roof, to strengthen it.

I was shocked when I owned a 110 (roof) how weak they were - you slam the back door and the roof wobbles.

I will be interested to see what you do as im looking at doing the same. i have built a roof center console that have the cdplayer and uhf in it and that sits against the roof and has stiffened it up alot ( before if i had both windows open the roof would vibrate so much it was deafening)

Originally Posted by austastar

..................Araldite 3 magnets underneath to grip the roof, maybe use some furniture felt pads to protect the roof surface from the magnets.
cheers

must be good magnets to grip aluminium..........