i'm still learning as much as i can, whats a DMF?
sorry if thats a stupid Q...
Has your TD5 been re-mapped?
The TD5 clutches are not designed to be able to take much additional torque over the strandard delivery (why should they!?). If its a standrad engine, you dont do much towing and the pedal is adjusted correctly it should go for a long while... If this is your case then Id suggest its probably a case of easy money for the garage...
However, if its remapped and delivering significantly more torque than standard and you do a lot of heavy towing, it will eat the clutch relitavely quickly. In this case, Rakeway (in the UK) make some excellent TD5 HD clutches that are designed for high-torque applications and at the same time do away with the Dual Mass flywheel. They chatter a bit at tickover but you'll never need another clutch!
Either way, watch it and change it at the first hint of any slippage. That way you'll more than likely be able to get away with only changing the clutch plate and bearing assembly, rather than needing to change the DMF also.
Hope that helps.
Jon
Regards,
Jon
i'm still learning as much as i can, whats a DMF?
sorry if thats a stupid Q...
Dual Mass Flywheel:
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnaXB8q3uzQ"]YouTube- 3D animation of dual mass flywheel[/nomedia]
Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
i changed mine at 110k ish, why it was a personal thing, it was bought from new to tow our 3T van and all of it was pretty much off the main roads, so i wanted to change it as i like my car to be perfect and it was allways on my mind the clutch,
and yer i was very surprised at how good it still was, no burning anywere, thow out still perfect, spigot still good,
but i changed it my self in a workshop so it wasnt expensive for me, just parts, plus i now have a HD clutch in as i have plans to chip my car in a yr or so, and with lockers its alot more strain on the clutch![]()
Hey all I think i am up for a new clutch in my td5 110 2003 model as it is starting to play up, it dosn't always release and it shudders occasionally. I am taking it to get repaired on Wednesday as I have no idea how to fix it myself.
My question is worst case how much am i likely to spend? has anybody been down this path before?
I started to get shudder at 120K (td5 110 2003), by 121k shudder + hell of a lot of grinding noises.
Gearbox off, results, failed DMF, replaced DMF, replaced clutch(no unusual wear) and entire clutch kit. From memory, $2750.00 parts and labour.
Check if your fuel pressure regulator is not leaking, the diesel leak slowly makes its way down to the flywheel housing and that could give you some shudder, also there might be an oil leak at the back of the sump which could be creeping onto the flywheel( hard to pick this one as its only visible once the gearbox is off.) Is the car marking the driveway ??.
I had the luck to get all of these symptoms at once so it was hard to tell which failure caused the most damage.....![]()
bugger I hope its not all those issues I cant really aford that amount at the moment.
It is an odd issue, it drives fine but it seams to not release the drive when pulling up to a stop and it shudders for a second or two then stops, feels like i havent put my foot on the clutch and it is about to stall. the other issue is that it dosnt happen all the time either...
I had to replace mine at 134.000 km, but due to broken center. Pads were like new... my car have had a really bad life, full of off road and rescue towing...
Thanks Lionel, I hope it is a simple thing like that and not too expensive, wrong side of the tax writeoffs at the moment.
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