Tyre pressures for on road driving - 2004 110

**Mellow Yellow** · 19th January 2010, 09:10 AM

Thanks for all the input. Much appreciated and very helpful.

What is clear :-
(a) everyone runs 32psi or above
(b) running the same pressure in all tyres is common but not universal
(c) increasing the rear tyre pressure when loaded is common but not universal (maybe some only carry light loads)
(d) the tyre pressures in my Land Rover manual (28F & 48R always) are not used by anyone.

In my original post I said; "I would have thought 32psi in the front whether laden or unladen. For the rear, 36psi unladen and 40psi laden."

As I typically don't exceed 100kph, I think that I'll only change tyre pressures based on whether I'm unladen or laden (i.e. heavily loaded & towing). [If I'm in the NT, this might change!]

The most suitable pressures for me now appear to lie in the range :-
Front 32psi to 36psi
Rear 36psi to 45psi.

So, I'm going to see if the following works for me :-

Unladen 32psi Front 38psi Rear
Laden 35psi Front 42psi Rear

Thanks for all your help.

**Blknight.aus** · 19th January 2010, 05:27 PM

thats how I did it for my tyres, experimentation. and you have to go through it all over again when you change or rotate the rubber.

**bosvit** · 19th January 2010, 09:24 PM

Originally Posted by Fraz

I have a 130 with BFG ATs (soon to be MTs

), and I put 40 psi in front and rear, as they look flat when sitting there - unladen.

When doing bigger trips with alot of gear in the back, Ill put the back to 45psi, which improves the ride considerably. It doesnt feel like jelly, and they look just as they would when unladen.

Ill be interested to see what others use though, and how different these pressures are for 110 v 130.
Fraz

IMO that's because BFG ATs are a square tyre so they always look a little flat compared to a more standard shape like a Cooper etc.

If your BFG ATs do not have their outer and inner edges on the tarmac unladen you are over psi and will get too much centre wear (and not real good handling)

I've had BFG ATs on a lot of different utes for work, but went with Cooper ATs on my 130 due to cost and the fact that the squarer BFG ATs tend to follow the ruts on bitumen at speed more.

I run 38psi front (heavy bull bar, no winch) and 42ish psi rear unladen and 50ish psi laden or 55ish psi really laden eg 2.3 tonne boat, camper trailer on tray plus all our gear etc.

**bcj** · 20th January 2010, 09:01 AM

I run standard pressures in 110 c/chassis-though only round 40 in rear unloaded.I find this best as local council gone roundabout crazy-I think the larger footprint from front wheels and some sidewall flex help with cornering- I do run 7.50r16 tyres though.I live on gravel road and I like the softer ride at 28 as well.When driving in paddock I leave pressures as is-never get stuck.
Maybe 28 & 48 pressures best suit design parameters for defender-not actually best pressure for extended hwy use or larger/different tyre sizes.
Brett

**ramblingboy42** · 24th January 2010, 11:25 AM

I know I'm driving a D2 and not a fender but I set mine at 46 allround. So far 60k on Geolanders. as for understeer/oversteer, if you have lower front pressures, basically your car will understeer. D2 drivers can get great handling from their ace assisted vehicles just by increasing front tyre pressures.....or decrease rears. I personally believe most people dont drive their vehicles at optimum tyre pressures. Optimum does not mean maximum.

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