Thread: Solar bore pump question

Originally Posted by Graeme

Partly cover 1 panel to drop the voltage then assuming the pump runs, slowly remove the cover as the panel o/p voltage will drop under load. Alternatively leave it connected overnight and it should be OK as the sun gets up.

Tried that already. Went from no lights at all to the voltage overload as I removed the cover. I was thinking that might only change the watts not the volts.

Originally Posted by bee utey

Wire a few household batten holders across the solar panels and install a selection of 240 volt globes (or 2x 24V truck globes in series if you have any) until the voltage is in tolerance.

That sounds a better idea than my long wire or resistance for voltage drop.
I will give that a go.

Whoa.........................................littl e steps is good.

Solar panels come (basically) in two sizes 12 volt (nominal) and 24 volt (nominal). A 12 volt solar panel will have a Voc (open circuit voltage no load) of approx. 22 volts and a working voltage (connected to a regulator with a load) of around 18 volts to give a regulated output (from the solar regulator/controller) of 13.5 volts (usually connected to a 12 volt (nominal) battery. For a 24 volt system double these numbers.

If you have a 36 volt (nominal) system you will need 3 X 12 volt panels connected in series. This will have a Voc of approx. 66 volts and a working solar panel voltage of approx. 54 volts into the controller when the reg/controller is connected to a load. The reg output voltage will be around 40 volts.

What does it say on the back of the solar panels ? (Manufacturer, model number Voc etc), same for the solar reg/controller, and for the pump. These solar bore pump setups don't usually require a battery when used with the correct controller so this should not be an issue if all the components are compatible .

Give us a bit more info and all may become clearer.


Deano

The voltage wont be maintained as load is increased - consider what happens if you short circuit the panel o/p with heavy gauge wire when the voltage drops to 0. However the voltage must be rising too quickly past the controller's limit before the controller gets to connect the load, which might also occur as the sun rises if the controller is that sensitive.

Originally Posted by DeanoH

Whoa.........................................littl e steps is good.

Solar panels come (basically) in two sizes 12 volt (nominal) and 24 volt (nominal). A 12 volt solar panel will have a Voc (open circuit voltage no load) of approx. 22 volts and a working voltage (connected to a regulator with a load) of around 18 volts to give a regulated output (from the solar regulator/controller) of 13.5 volts (usually connected to a 12 volt (nominal) battery. For a 24 volt system double these numbers.

If you have a 36 volt (nominal) system you will need 3 X 12 volt panels connected in series. This will have a Voc of approx. 66 volts and a working solar panel voltage of approx. 54 volts into the controller when the reg/controller is connected to a load. The reg output voltage will be around 40 volts.

What does it say on the back of the solar panels ? (Manufacturer, model number Voc etc), same for the solar reg/controller, and for the pump. These solar bore pump setups don't usually require a battery when used with the correct controller so this should not be an issue if all the components are compatible .

Give us a bit more info and all may become clearer.


Deano

Here is a pic of the back of the panel.
The pump is down the hole and only had a sticker stating 36volts.
Same with the controller.

Is there a battery terminal on the controller?

If so, try connecting a charged battery(s). (might need 24v)

The controller on my camper will not pass any solar power through if there's no battery connected, or if it's flat.

Could also depend on dip switch settings if:
1. you have the panels wired into the battery terminals, with no battery connected, OR
2. panels wired into the PV terminals, with batteries connected to the battery terminals.



And, just in case you don't have the manual............ http://sunergy.net.au/wp-content/the...ion_Manual.pdf

Thanks . Thats the same manual as I have. Does not say much does it.
No battery terminals on the control box

Originally Posted by 123rover50

Thanks . Thats the same manual as I have. Does not say much does it.
No battery terminals on the control box

No B+ / B- terminals?

According to the manual, all the controllers other than the 150v / 220v / 300v should have them.

-EDIT-
Looking at the 36v controller, it has battery terminals, but not the PV terminals.
PV panels get wired to the battery terminals, so no battery connection required............ hmmm.

You also need 2x 22v 130W panels in series.

Starting to look like your panels are a bit wanting. ???


Also, is your pump outlet 1" or larger?
If it's larger, then you've got the wrong pump, which is still 36v, but will need 500w to crank it.