Solar bore pump question

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Originally Posted by d@rk51d3

3 sensors in the tank would work similarly to 3 in the well, but in reverse. But a wasted exercise for general use, I think.

In the well, if the water covers all 3, the pump will run until either the tank sensors show full and shuts it down, or the water level in the well drops below the second well sensor. (m)

If water in the well drops below the second well sensor (m), the pump cuts out, and will not restart until the well shows full by reaching the 3rd sensor (h) again.

So, with no sensors in the tank, controller will read the tank as empty, and should be signalled to run, BUT with no sensors down the well, it will register as a dry bore, and refuse to start the pump.

Looks like you need to trick the controller into thinking there's water in the well (bridging the common (L) and (H)igh sensor terminals). A sensor in the pump itself would be insufficient IMHO, as the pump would possibly vortex and suck air.

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The bottom two lights on the box are for 1 Tank full
2 Source low

Wouldnt these light up as the cause of the shutdown if the probes need to be bridged rather than the high voltage light showing?
Anyway I will give the bridging a go today.

Hi


Know nothing about electrickery, but I do drill bores, and I look good while I'm doing it:D


Try this guy, he called me once to get me to recommend him. Said he's been doing it for a while, cant hurt


http://www.rmigelectrical.com.au/ His name is Martin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 123rover50

The bottom two lights on the box are for 1 Tank full
2 Source low

Wouldnt these light up as the cause of the shutdown if the probes need to be bridged rather than the high voltage light showing?
Anyway I will give the bridging a go today.

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Yeah, I saw those indicators on your controller. Thought maybe even they might be wired wrong. Lights also may not run without the common connected as a reference........But I'm clutching at straws now.

Got my fingers crossed, hoping the bridging will get you going.

Just don't forget to switch the pump off when you're done, or it seems that it will run indefinitely.

I am still thinking its a voltage problem so put the bridging of the probes for later.
Decided to use Deanos suggestion to see if it would run off batteries.
Bought up the 24volt skidsteer, some leads and the tractor battery.
(forgot the fuse) Anyway it all fired up and started pumping:D
The battery voltage dropped to 32volt but it kept going.
Now the funny thing is I put the volt meter on the 3 wires going to the pump. Nothing. No matter which way I tested between the wires I got no reading.
Just thought now. Could it be converting to AC somehow.
When I go back I will try again for AC current.
So maybe if I swap these panels for the 19volt ones all will be OK.

Learn something every day.
The current going to the pump is AC.
No matter which pair of the three I tested with the meter on AC I got 24volts

and 3 phase at that?

Good news. So putting in the correct panels should do it.

Good job. :D A set of decent panels and all's good by the look of it.
Sort of makes sense now, aah...............hindsight, 'swapping any two wires changes direction of motor', I think you said earlier. Got AC 3 phase characteristics written all over it, but I wasn't sharp enough to pick it up. :(

Anyway you've got it nailed now, well done. :)

Deano :)

Yes, thanks to all for the ideas.
I will put the probes down the hole anyway to shut it off if the bore gets low.
Might experiment to see if I can use the same terminals to shut off when the tank is full. But I doubt that will work somehow.
Havnt heard back from the vendor yet. He is still awaiting a respone from China I suppose.

From the pic you posted, the terminals are TL, TM & TH. I'd read these as tank low, tank medium (or tank coMmon) and tank high :), not WL or WH (well low or high). From the description on the controller front panel the lower LED is Source (well) Low and also labelled under current. From this I'd assume that the controller senses when the pump is dry as no water = no load = low current draw so the alarm comes up and (presumably) the motor is turned off, otherwise what's the point of the alarm ? Pretty easy to test. With the pump running lift it out of the water and see what happens. :o

The Over Current alarm (with the high water level graphic) has me a bit confused but perhaps it assumes a ball valve in the tank which cuts off when the tank's full which then puts back pressure on the pump which makes it work harder = higher current. Don't really know, just guessing here. It would also come on if the screw was clogged with sand or whatever. Didn't you say that the old feller said the pump had its own built in protection ?

Just a few thoughts.

Deano:)