With the impending doom about to settle over Victoria, Aerodynamics wont even be much of an issue . The Andrews government is serious about lowering the speed limit on all unsealed roads to 70kmh .
Well thats doubled my range already !!
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With the impending doom about to settle over Victoria, Aerodynamics wont even be much of an issue . The Andrews government is serious about lowering the speed limit on all unsealed roads to 70kmh .
Well thats doubled my range already !!
Another problem to be solved.
As it stands the motor wont fit the gearbox.
i bought this LandRover adaptor kit so that I would not have to re-invent the wheel, but I do have to modify that wheel significantly . I wonder how other people get on ?
The front of the gearbox input shaft is 46mm forward of the mating plane of bell housing.
the rear of the motor shaft is 44mm forward of the mating plane .
So I need to execute a delicate operation and chop the front 3mm from the input shaft .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/420.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/421.jpg
Not really, as far as I can tell. The top cop Doug Fryer is doing his 'tilting at windmills' act but was pretty firmly put back in his box by the Roads Minister. [bigsmile1]Quote:
Originally Posted by goingbush
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Deano :)
Since my dyslexia precludes me from making and notating measurements I have to try everything to size.
I made a dummy motor to work out the front mounts.
Luckily the Landy has a crank handle hole in the front bumper in the exact centre of where the crankshaft would be .
This dummy motor is in the same dimensions as the actual motor, and is positioned on a conduit shoved onto the gearbox input shaft.
now I can chose the most suitable mounts and make a front plate to suit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/487.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/488.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/489.jpg
When I ordered the motor I had a choice of front shaft or no front shaft. I chose front shaft incase I wanted to mount an alternator etc , but i'm using a DC-DC converter instead.
They dont need extra 'cooling' but I'll make a fan to go on the shaft with a dome shaped cover and a 2" pipe spigot so I can run an 'inlet tube'. Then I can pressurise it with filtered air , good for wading and will stop dust getting in it from normal dirt road use.
the exit air comes out vents at the rear of motor.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/490.jpg
Suggestion for removing input shaft of gear bag
Engage lowest gear - drill on output thereby rotating input shaft
Then using grinder and 1mm cut wheel should get a nice clean cut
I have done similar on hardened shafts (in lathe) but hand holding grinder and it works well...
Make the cut so shaft is spinning away from grinder direction gives stability, finish with flap disc
Vacuum taped under cut will catch majority of grindings
Steve
Operation successful, 5mm removed from input shaft with both cut off disc and flapper & formed a small chamfer, the shaft will almost fully engage the spigot and the front of clutch spline clears the flywheel . so all should be well .
I also removed un-nescessary ring gear from flywheel & gave it a bit of a clean up , could not get the clutch dwells out so looks a bit half-arsed.
I considered leaving the ring gear on to use as a tone ring for a hall sensor but I'll grind 3 shallow notches in the flywheel circumference and use a proximity sensor instead of hall sensor (for my cruise control )
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/531.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/532.jpg
Bit of a problem, when mounted on the motor the flywheel has axis and radial runout 0.2mm , quite unacceptable for a standard Landy at 3500RPM, let alone an electric motor with potential for 10,000RPM ( I'll probably limit it to 5000 RPM in the software )
So I made a jig to remove the clutch dowells and mounted the flywheel on my rotary table and measured runout to be .02mm which is more like it , I gave it a gentle surface with an 80grit flaring cup anyway.
Mounted back on the motor it was .2mm out again - which is way too much.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/583.jpg
Took Flywheel off and found axial runout caused by the flywheel adaptor, It is attached to the motor shaft via a keyway & grubscrews, which to my mind would possibly make it run in a eccentric so T put the complete motor on the lathe & trued up the hub adaptor face .
[IMG]http://www.goingbush.com/ptev/lathe5.jpg[/IMG]
Now I have .01mm axial runout which is as good as I can expect but still have .2mm radial runout - thats more serious , as in vibrations, but an easy fix.
Bush
Just spitballing
Would something like a ZF marine gear with two "gears" and neutral
Have a role in an EV fitout
Would give two gears (and two reverses) and neutral
Less complicated than a clutch and gearbox albeit requiring a hydraulic pump
But surely that could be arranged?
Steve
Are your motor bearings capable of handling the end load from the clutch being disengaged? What about the keyed drive adaptor? Not sure why you're using a clutch when the motor can go down to zero rpm.