Thread: Goingbush's Electric Vehicle project

Have you seen this Don?

http://unsealed4x4.com.au/u4x4/issue043/#43

Don.

Originally Posted by Don 130

Have you seen this Don?

http://unsealed4x4.com.au/u4x4/issue043/#43

Don.

Thanks, have been looking forward to reading about that . !!

Whilst waiting for batteries and other parts I decided to make Chill plate for the Motor Controller , rather than a finned heatsink . Started off with a 300 x 300 x 22mm alloy plate.

The controllers do get hot under constant load and cut performance back when they go over 60c . Chill plate solves the problem.








I ordered a VW Auxiliary coolant pump, its a nice small pump with isolated mount included. no specs on current draw but I doubt it more than 15 Watt .


one of these
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2Pin...818270209.html

Not much happening, still waiting for batteries to arrive.

I have mounted the DC-DC Converter , this replaces the Alternator , converts traction battery (144V) to 13.8V @ up to 50Amps , to keep the 12V ancillaries alive, this is the unit with the finned alloy cover. If I need more than 50amps I can wire two in parallel, but only had a 35Amp alternator before so should be fine.

The box on the passenger footwell is the 3.3kW Charger , Plugs into 240v 15Amp GPO to charge the Lithium traction pack. Its heatsink & cooling fan extends down into the footwell, - had to cut a hole but luckily there was a cutout for the LHD Brake pedal position.

Auxiliary Panel was used on Lightweight FFR for 24V Ammeter and Voltmeter.
I'll keep a 2" 12v Gauge and have replaced the Ammeter with the Curtis "Spyglass" and added a menu button . System programming is done via this gauge. The standard LandRover fuel gauge will be the traction battery level indicator , will read Full at 164V and empty at 120 Volt , (Emergency flat is 115V - discharge beyond that the batteries may be damaged, but battery management system will disconnect system,)

I can also programme the standard water temp gauge to display battery/ motor or controller temp,

Was thinking of using a Td5 Fly by wire throttle pedal, but just did not look right so hooked up a 5k Curtis Golf Buggy potentiometer to the Series throttle linkage,

As if I don't already have enough gear levers , I found a neat switch that will act as Forward / Neutral / Reverse , It fits nicely into the Gearbox oil filler rubber bung and has a neat latching action. I'll use this as Forward / Reverse rather than using reverse on the main gearbox. means I can reverse in any gear.

from NCOP14 (rules I must follow)

1. A combination of two different actuations, e.g. a toggle switch with a cover, or a separate reverse enabling switch; or
2. A momentary contact switch which allows reverse gear to be engaged only when the vehicle is moving with a forward speed of less than 5 km/h. Above this speed all actionson this switch must be ineffective

Bit of a stumbling block. I don't know where i'm going to mount my J1772 charge receptacle.
They usually go in the old fuel filler hole . As both my fuel tanks had series one style filling . Lift up the seat & fill direct into the tank, there is no external fuel filler.

No way I'm going to cut a hole in the bodywork . I could make a replica radiator grille & have an opening section & plug in there , (Im not going to cut my very rare lightweight grille) I was thinking perhaps in the Tuaam Antenna box, which does have an opening lid, or in the toolbox behind the rear wheel. None of the options are ideal.