View Full Version : 101 Clutch Fun
101RRS
17th March 2010, 04:08 PM
Well my clutch packed it in a week ago - initially hoped it was the slave cylinder which I got resleeved but wasn't to be so easy and the clutch was still dead.
The only place I have to work is on my driveway which is on a slope. I managed to jack the 101 up at the front so I could get it onto ramps. I also decided to let the rear tyres down to try and get the 101 level to enable the engine crane to slide in the tray. Note the front tyres 35psi then note the rear tyres 0 psi - hence the no bagging of tyres when I let them down a bit to go offroad or on the sand.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/100_0791.jpg
Gearbox is out and the front looks OK - I might take the front off and replace oil seals and check the oil pump.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/100_0794.jpg
The clutch itself looks good and seems to be relatively new with little wear on the fingers.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Now the damage - the thrust bearing looks like it has seized and then spun with the clutch and chewed/melted out the plastic housing - old parts on the left - new ones on the right.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/100_0793.jpg
The hole - it is a pain to get the box out because of the PTO to the winch but at least I can use an engine hoist from above.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/100_0792.jpg
And the left exhaust manifold must have had a crack in it as it broke as soon as I jiggled the exhaust pipe.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Luckily I have a spare manifold in my spares. The question is can it be done in place or the engine removed - anyone with a 101 replaced the manifold in place??? Access to the front is OK through the access hatch in the front wheel well but the rear studs look a bit tight.
Garry
101 Ron
17th March 2010, 05:16 PM
I have done my LHS manifold with no problems.
The hardest part is making certain that the gaskets are the correct way around.
That break on the manifold looks like a fresh one and not a old crack.
It could be worse .....you could be working on another model Landy where access is not so good.
I believe you have two choices in refitting the transmission in removing the bottom off the tranfercase and refitting it later for the PTO drive ...or removing the winch.
Peter P may have some tips.
might be possiible slide in the drive whisle refitting with a extra set of hands.
I wonder why the throw out bearing failed the way it did.
bee utey
17th March 2010, 05:42 PM
I wonder why the throw out bearing failed the way it did.
Would this hole have anything to do with it?
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/P1040934.jpg
101RRS
17th March 2010, 07:44 PM
Would this hole have anything to do with it?
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/P1040934.jpg
Haha - No - the water is still a good 6-10" below the clutch. Also there was no evidence of dirt or water in the bell housing or surface rust on the pressure plate.
Ron, I took the pto off the transfer case and will take to opportunity to fix a couple of leaks. As I am doing all this work on my lonesome, I figured it would be too hard to get the winch back up. One or the other does have to come out to get the box out and the pto from the tfr case is easiest.
The manifold does have some old fatigue cracks on the underside.
The pressure plate is in as new condition and friction plate is only about 1/4 worn so it has been replaced recently (in km terms). The only reason that I can think for the thrust bearing failing is that it was not replaced when the clutch was last done and with it sitting for 8 years before I got it maybe corrosion had set in - but as said inside the bellhousing it has been very dry and clean.
While the current clutch is good I have decided to to put a new one in - already bought it - and I will keep the old for an emergency spare.
Garry
101RRS
19th March 2010, 12:24 PM
The exhaust manifold was so easy to get out - about 10 mins. There were no gaskets on it and it looks like silastic was used - seems to have worked well as there was only one spot where there appears to have been blow buy and it sealed itself with a little carbon.
The reassembly begins - doing the engine main oil seal but the old one does look OK - the little bit of oil that leaks seems to be coming from the sump gasket but I will do that another day.
Garry
101RRS
19th March 2010, 06:42 PM
The exhaust manifold is back in - a lot harder to get it back than get it out. A stud or two to help line things up would be helpful.
I have put the new friction and pressure plate in and all seemed to be going well until a neighbour dropped by for a bit of sledging - he is in the Landrover Club but drives a Troopy. He said that he thought that the pressure plate fingers were too flat and should be protruding out a bit. Well that got me worried so I pulled it off again to check things out. Seemed to be all together OK - friction plate correct way around.
So what do people think.
This is the old pressure plate still in place - the fingers do stick out a little.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/100_0796.jpg
This is the new pressure in place before tightening things up - the fingers stick out a little
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/000_00071.jpg
This is the new pressure plate with everything tensioned up - friction plate is the correct way around and the fingers are neither in or out
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/000_00091.jpg
It has been nearly 20 years since I have changed a clutch and from what I remember the fingers did always stick out a bit when the pressure plate was tensioned up.
Thanks
Garry
Bearman
19th March 2010, 07:07 PM
Gary, That doesn't look right. The diaphram fingers should not be in that position. Are you dead certain the friction plate is the correct way. If so I would be taking the pressure plate off and measuring and comparing it with the old pressure plate. ...Brian
bee utey
19th March 2010, 07:21 PM
Looks right to me, when it wears it will soon be standing outwards. This is why a new clutch is so nice, the clutch over centres quickly when you depress the pedal.
101RRS
20th March 2010, 03:32 PM
Thanks Brian - looked odd to me as well and I did pull it back off - friction plate is the correct way around.
Cheers
Garry
101RRS
20th March 2010, 03:34 PM
Looks right to me, when it wears it will soon be standing outwards. This is why a new clutch is so nice, the clutch over centres quickly when you depress the pedal.
Great - thanks for that - I guess if it doesn't work - I now have someone to blame :D.
Advice appreciated.
Garry
101RRS
23rd March 2010, 08:58 PM
Gearbox is back in and tested with the driveshafts out - the clutch seems to now work fine. I just have to connect up all the other bits and pieces.
My rear main seal in the tfr case has always leaked a bit and I am thinking about fixing it with the rear drive shaft out. When I took the brake drum off I noticed the big nut on the rear output of the tfr case is loose - can turn it with my fingers. If that nut is loose, will that cause an oil leak and might it fix itself when I tighten it up or should the seal be replaced - just prefer not to do this at this time unless absolutely necessary.
Thanks
Garry
PeterP
24th March 2010, 06:19 AM
I noticed the big nut on the rear output of the tfr case is loose - can turn it with my fingers. If you mean the the 20mm self lock nut on the output flange it could contribute to leaking as there is a felt washer (594029) behind the big flat washer. This nut should be done up to 120 ft/lb. In changing the oil seal the hardest part was getting that nut undone. If you can turn it by hand I would replace the nut also.
Once undone its pretty easy to change the oil seal and felt washer, so I would do that while you are this close. Just need to remove brake assembly, tap off the oil shield, and with the coupling flange removed you can lever the old seal out with a screw driver.
Good luck,
Peter
101RRS
25th March 2010, 09:59 PM
Well it is all back together and seems to be Ok - replaced the clutch and the consumable bits in the fork, the engine rear main seal, though the old one seemed Ok and the tfr case rear main seal.
Removing a LT95 by yourself on a sloping driveway is not much fun but the biggest PITA is reconnecting all the ancillary bits - such as PTO unit, cables, exhaust etc - these actually took about 3 times as long to do as the clutch itself.
Next time I think I will pay someone to do it - oh did I tell you about the 4 litres of tfr case oil down the driveway when the pto fell off into the oil catching pan and spraying it everywhere :mad:.
Anyway the 101 is back on the road and down to Bendethra this weekend.
Garry
101 Ron
25th March 2010, 10:06 PM
I am doing things at home saturday and have some towing duties for my 101 at the farm in Kangaroo valley on sunday.........bendeathra is temping though ....just my luck.
101RRS
25th March 2010, 10:37 PM
Is a consolidation training weekend following a club training day two weeks ago - did that in the Freelander.
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