More Holden Trouble

[banjo]

Ok Fatty went to take the cody to footy thismorning & while the rover was warming up i noticed the oil pressure was low so i checked the oil & it was LOW only just on the stick.The car has been use everyday for the last month or so & worked hard during the move, & it has been a little smoky on start up in the past..I haven't been able to check the compresion yet but when we where having the overheating trouble they where still all high & i put all new bearings in the bottom end & a new head gasket.I think it mite be the valve guides maybe but would it use that much oil if it was just the valve guides, i will keep an eye on it from now on & keep topping it up when needed for now..Once i get some sort of order in my little shed & my tools i will check the compression again,& i think my water pump bearing is making a noise now aswell. just looking for some advise or ideas on what else i should look at or for. It is a blue 202 with holley 350 all electronic ignitsion.Would a black 202 head fit on it ,mainly for the unleaded fuel & it mite save me a bit if i just put one of them on instead of rebuilding the blue head as i got a price ages ago & it was about $600 to do the head up & make ready for unleaded & theres noway we could aford that so any help ,advise or ideas would be great guys ..
THANKS
Jason & Karen..

PS if you put your finger in the exhaust & wipe it comes out moist & black..
does that help any...

[scarry]

If the engine oil is old,maybe change the oil & filter & fill it up with a thicker oil.

Probably putting off the inevitable.....but may help for a while.

Careful with the water pump bearing as sometime they go & put the fan into the radiator,although on yours i dunno how close the rad is to the fan.

Good luck

[justinc]

Jason, yes as Paul says be careful with leaving the water pump, they are pretty cheap and easy to replace. A lot cheaper than a radiator:eek:

The oil consumption is not unusual for these engines in a LR, as the gearing makes them rev harder than they like. I would say that it is most likely a oil control ring issue although could be valve stem seals/ guides also.

They aren't renowned their piston crown strength either, I have seen one disintegrate in the bore and the conrod force its way into the water jacket...:twisted:

Can you pull the spark plugs and post up a photo for us to take a look at so we can advise further? Leave them in order 1 to 6 left to right.

JC

[banjo]

Jason, yes as Paul says be careful with leaving the water pump, they are pretty cheap and easy to replace. A lot cheaper than a radiator:eek:

The oil consumption is not unusual for these engines in a LR, as the gearing makes them rev harder than they like. I would say that it is most likely a oil control ring issue although could be valve stem seals/ guides also.

They aren't renowned their piston crown strength either, I have seen one disintegrate in the bore and the conrod force its way into the water jacket...:twisted:

Can you pull the spark plugs and post up a photo for us to take a look at so we can advise further? Leave them in order 1 to 6 left to right.

JC


Thanks i will get some pics as soon as i can get at my toolbox hopefully this arvo..

[banjo]

Ok guys i took some pics there not the best but they mite help i will try & get some better ones tomoz.
the plugs are in order from RIGHT to LEFT i put them on the gaurd as they came out starting with the front one first..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/244.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/245.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/246.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/247.jpg


from front to back starting from the right side..

[banjo]

I also think the holley needs a good tune ,I have never tuned a 350 onle ever had the 600 or larger ,so i better get me holley book & parts list out & have a look through..

[justinc]

They look pretty good Jason, bit hard to tell but I also reckon the Holley jetting seems fine looking at the colour of the insulators etc.
Possibly a little lean for a carb engine but really not bad at all:)
JC

[banjo]

They look pretty good Jason, bit hard to tell but I also reckon the Holley jetting seems fine looking at the colour of the insulators etc.
Possibly a little lean for a carb engine but really not bad at all:)
JC


Thanks for that,thats reasuring i will try & dig out my compresion tester & also get some better pics ...

[LandyAndy]

I would just monitor the oil consumption.
My guess is you have dilution in the sump(moisture/unburnt fuel etc) and as you have just done a heap more work shifting you have burnt the dilution off(NORMAL).
Remeber,a holden 6 sump is marginal capacity wise in a Series and holden 6s always use oil.
As mentioned give her an oilchange and upgrade to a better spec oil,try Penrite HPR30 for winter,Penrite HPR50 for summer.
Look into the plug length,judging by the carbon on the threads they look to be too long,cant be too far from hitting the pistons:eek::eek::eek:
Andrew

[Hoges]

Might also be worth checking the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve... Make sure it's free of "glug" ... ;)

[banjo]

Might also be worth checking the Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve... Make sure it's free of "glug" ... ;)


OK now you have me stumped what is that & where do i find it to check,i don't have to pull any parts off do to check it..:confused:.
I dont remember seeing anything on the sump or the front cover..

[drifter]

OK now you have me stumped what is that & where do i find it to check,i don't have to pull any parts off do to check it..:confused:.
I dont remember seeing anything on the sump or the front cover..

Read all about it here (http://holdenpaedia.oldholden.com/PCV), Jason

[banjo]

Thanks drifter i will read it all tomoz see if it says what to clean them with as i have 2 of them..

[Bigbjorn]

I would just monitor the oil consumption.
My guess is you have dilution in the sump(moisture/unburnt fuel etc) and as you have just done a heap more work shifting you have burnt the dilution off(NORMAL).
Remeber,a holden 6 sump is marginal capacity wise in a Series and holden 6s always use oil.
As mentioned give her an oilchange and upgrade to a better spec oil,try Penrite HPR30 for winter,Penrite HPR50 for summer.
Look into the plug length,judging by the carbon on the threads they look to be too long,cant be too far from hitting the pistons:eek::eek::eek:
Andrew


Andrew, Holden's use oil, like most engines, only if they are badly worn. I managed fleets where Holden sixes routinely did 300,000-400,000 k's within a four lease period and were not using unacceptable amounts of oil when traded in. In my GM-H days I was service rep. responsible for the Sydney taxi industry. Well maintained cabs did 200,000 miles in two years and were not burning oil when sold off at that point, as was common then. Transmissions & clutches were the most common repairs as would be expected from high mileage stop/start use in city traffic. As an aside, taxi owners (meanest creatures you would find anywhere) reported that drum brakes had a significantly lower cost per mile and lesser down time than discs. They used to ask me if GM-H would provide a heavy duty drum brake option.

I suspect that most Holden transplants into Land Rovers are done on the cheap because the transplanter can't afford to properly rebuild the existing engine. They usually find a cheap, worn, engine from a wrecker or the Trading Post/ Weekend Shopper which gets (or has had) a kerosene brush or spray gun overhaul. To rebuild and properly modify the Holden for a quite different application will cost as much, if not more, than rebuilding the original engine.

The transplant if done properly results in a much improved vehicle, more economical and better performing.

[banjo]

Mine was an origanal landy 6cyl but when i got it it already had a holden red 6cyl in it that had water leaking throught the rear cylinder so i put the blue 202 in it, was reported to have had a rebuild only a couple of years before i got it ,& when we changed a few things you could tell that all the bearings where good & i only changed them as there was a large loud knock in it once we got it started & it turned out to be the crank hitting the oil pickup pipe bracket pistons where all good & it had been rebored to 30thow .I just think when that was all done They didn't bother to do the head other wise it would of been done to take the unleaded fuel.So i am going to check & thoroughly clean the PCV s for now & i have to check to see if its my water pump or my power steering pump thats making a noise .I use the screwdriver to ear technique hope thats good enuff..
Do you thing i am looking at big trouble Brian with the oil consuption,mind you i know i hadn't checked it for some time...

[LandyAndy]

Brian
Jason mentioned a suden use of oil.He has just been busy shifting houses,making the old lazy landy do some work for a change.Dilution of the oil.I bet that old girl hardly ever sees warp speed hey Banjo????,unless Fatty is in one hell of a mood:D:D:D:D:D
Holden 6s work real hard in a Landy,highway speed is close on their redline.
I will assure Jason the Penrite oils I mention will correct his oil consumption,he sure aint burning it by the look of the plugs!!!!
In all your experience Brian,looking at the pics,has that holden 6 got the correct sparkplugs???
Andrew

[bee utey]

If you are running the original fuel pump check that the pump diaphragm isn't failed. Petrol going to the sump will cause oil burning and other running issues!

[banjo]

Brian
Jason mentioned a suden use of oil.He has just been busy shifting houses,making the old lazy landy do some work for a change.Dilution of the oil.I bet that old girl hardly ever sees warp speed hey Banjo????,unless Fatty is in one hell of a mood:D:D:D:D:D
Holden 6s work real hard in a Landy,highway speed is close on their redline.
I will assure Jason the Penrite oils I mention will correct his oil consumption,he sure aint burning it by the look of the plugs!!!!
In all your experience Brian,looking at the pics,has that holden 6 got the correct sparkplugs???
Andrew

Thanks Andrew i will be getting some of that oil as soon as we can afford it (payday thursdy )mite have enuff change.
With the sparkplugs should i measure the depth of the thread hole in the head then look for the right type of plug (heat rating excetra) them make sure its no longer in the thread than the hole in the head i think thats what you mean ???

[banjo]

Na it doesn't even get upto highway speeds.fatty said she only hovers around 60ish....if that helps..

[LandyAndy]

Jason
Take a plug,or the pics into a GOOD parts shop.Just check the length of the plug listed for the blue motor compared to yours.Im no holden expert but they look way to long compared to the ones used in my past holden powered Series landys.A sparkplug head usually sits flush with the engines head,the thread on yours with the carbon sugests the plug is down inside the compression area.
Try a seperate thread in tech chat on sparkplugs for holden 6s.Plenty of holden heroes on here in the know.
GOODLUCK
Andrew

[bee utey]

They are the correct length for a blue motor.:)

[banjo]

They are the correct length for a blue motor.:)



OK thanks.

[Bigbjorn]

I would just monitor the oil consumption.
My guess is you have dilution in the sump(moisture/unburnt fuel etc) and as you have just done a heap more work shifting you have burnt the dilution off(NORMAL).
Remeber,a holden 6 sump is marginal capacity wise in a Series and holden 6s always use oil.
As mentioned give her an oilchange and upgrade to a better spec oil,try Penrite HPR30 for winter,Penrite HPR50 for summer.
Look into the plug length,judging by the carbon on the threads they look to be too long,cant be too far from hitting the pistons:eek::eek::eek:
Andrew

Andrew, quite normal for spark plugs to show combustion deposits on the leading threads. Plugs don't seal on the threads like a taper pipe thread but by a washer or a taper seat at the top of the threaded section. They look pretty normal to me, usual ****ty black colour on the body as we expect from the poor quality unleaded motor spirit we are stuck with today, and a reasonably correct colour on the ceramic insulator.

As to red line, Holden sixes in good condition can operate continuously over 3,000 rpm. With a 2.78 diff, 3400 rpm equates to just over 80 mph which mud gutted heavy footed sales reps routinely cruised at in the days when we could do this on our less pest infested highways without getting your photo taken.

I raced an EH 149 in Showroom Stock class in the mid 60's and this used to turn 6200 rpm with hydraulic lifters and standard camshaft.

If doing this conversion, you need to do a thorough rebuild of the engine and carry out some modifications to make it more suitable. Horses for courses. Remember that a 202 won Bathurst in 1972 against 351 Ford Gt's, and came within a whisker of doing it again in 1973 except for Doug Chivas thinking he could go an extra lap before refuelling. These engines spent the entire 500 miles in the rev range 5,000 to 7,000.

I have no idea where banjo's oil is going. It does not appear to have been burnt going by the spark plug photos. One would think a large leak would be noticeable.

[banjo]

Andrew, quite normal for spark plugs to show combustion deposits on the leading threads. Plugs don't seal on the threads like a taper pipe thread but by a washer or a taper seat at the top of the threaded section. They look pretty normal to me, usual ****ty black colour on the body as we expect from the poor quality unleaded motor spirit we are stuck with today, and a reasonably correct colour on the ceramic insulator.

As to red line, Holden sixes in good condition can operate continuously over 3,000 rpm. With a 2.78 diff, 3400 rpm equates to just over 80 mph which mud gutted heavy footed sales reps routinely cruised at in the days when we could do this on our less pest infested highways without getting your photo taken.

I raced an EH 149 in Showroom Stock class in the mid 60's and this used to turn 6200 rpm with hydraulic lifters and standard camshaft.

If doing this conversion, you need to do a thorough rebuild of the engine and carry out some modifications to make it more suitable. Horses for courses. Remember that a 202 won Bathurst in 1972 against 351 Ford Gt's, and came within a whisker of doing it again in 1973 except for Doug Chivas thinking he could go an extra lap before refuelling. These engines spent the entire 500 miles in the rev range 5,000 to 7,000.

I have no idea where banjo's oil is going. It does not appear to have been burnt going by the spark plug photos. One would think a large leak would be noticeable.


Na no leak from the engine,Has normal gearbox & PTO leak.& theres no leak from bottum of the flywheel hole thingy on the bottom of the adapter.
& its just moist & Black in the tailpipe.

[banjo]

Hey went & checked the oil again today it was down some maybe a quarter off the full mark..Whats the diferance with the oil use say to get one was 30 & one was 50 we usualy just use the 25 to 50 i think thats it just your basic oil . going to get some of the oil use said this week on thursday should i do a change or just top up with the new stuff..full oil & filter change would be best hey..


THANKS
Jason & KAren..

[akelly]

Hey Jason,

Valve stem seals can be a culprit in the holden 6's - usually you get a little puff of smoke when you back off the accelerator. Your plugs look good, but without knowing what plug you are running its hard to say - if you have a hotter plug in there you may be burning that small amount of oil no problem, that is to say that it wont show on the plug - from memory you should have a BP6 type plug (NGK brand code) for the blue motor here in NSW.

Another issue could be the accelerator pump on the holley - if they are set up wrong they can put too much fuel in which washes out the bores and ends in oil consumption/smoking. If you are just doing short trips around town with lots of stop/start like traffic lights etc... this can be a killer because the accel pump is working much more.

Black and moist in the pipe suggests that something is going on - should be black and dry.

Cheers,

Adam

PS - whats the oil like? Thin and black, smells like petrol?

[banjo]

Hey Jason,

Valve stem seals can be a culprit in the holden 6's - usually you get a little puff of smoke when you back off the accelerator. Your plugs look good, but without knowing what plug you are running its hard to say - if you have a hotter plug in there you may be burning that small amount of oil no problem, that is to say that it wont show on the plug - from memory you should have a BP6 type plug (NGK brand code) for the blue motor here in NSW.

Another issue could be the accelerator pump on the holley - if they are set up wrong they can put too much fuel in which washes out the bores and ends in oil consumption/smoking. If you are just doing short trips around town with lots of stop/start like traffic lights etc... this can be a killer because the accel pump is working much more.

Black and moist in the pipe suggests that something is going on - should be black and dry.

Cheers,

Adam

PS - whats the oil like? Thin and black, smells like petrol?

Hi Adam oil is thin & blackish but i have never taken any notice if it smell like petrol. I will have a look again in the morning as its a bit hard by torch light..I will also get the number off the plugs, Fatty picked them up & it said on the packet that they where for the blue holden 6cyl . I will try & get some better pics to... THANKS

[Bigbjorn]

Have someone follow you whilst you let the car run against the engine with a closed throttle downhill, preferably a longish stretch. If you have worn valve guides then a trail of smoke will be observed by the following car.

[akelly]

Hi Jason,

it may not be the case with your motor, depending on how the carby is set up, but I've found the 350 holley to be a bit much for the holden 6 unless there are some mods - bigger cam, more compression etc... I did few "de-conversions" for mates who had put 350s on their toranas, EHs and so on. The WW stromberg was a pretty good option (and standard on the 186s) as were 2x 1"3/4 SU carbs - these were a much better option unless the car was pretty well worked, although the SUs were much more expensive than the holley conversion - which seemed to be available at milk bars at one stage! Plus a holley sticker on the back window was instant street cred :cool: I built a mild 149 for a dudes EH then he went and stuck a 350 Holley on it - the donk lasted about 3 months before it was belching smoke!

Tuning the holley is about getting the right jets and power valve combo for your engine, then setting the accel pump right - you need a gas analyser, vacuum guage and plenty of patience. Unless you know someone who is a gun holley dude I'd try and get hold of a WW Stromberg and 186s manifold - they are on eBay all the time. Much easier to tune - just make sure you get the 6 cyl version as there was also one for V8s.

Anyway - thats all well and good, but not much help to you! Have a sniff of the oil, get the numbers (and brand) off the plugs and if you get a chance, see if you get a little puff of smoke when you back off the throttle. The usual stuff like a compression test will help too, if you have the gear to do it.

I run a "high mileage" oil in my 186, I think its 25W 60 - that keeps them nice and quiet too. Dont waste money on fancy oil for these babies - they just need something thick and slippery! The Penrite gear is good too.

Sorry for the long post - I'm bloody bored, sitting at home for 4 weeks and unable to do bugger all thanks to a busted leg.

cheers,

Adam

[banjo]

Hi Adam yeah it does have a bigger can couldn't tell you what or how bigger .Its bored 30tho had extractors but they wouldn't fit so had to get standard exhaust. I am used to big bore & spread & square bore holley's 600cfm or bigger. But i will get all that stuff done & let use all know how it goes..
THANKS
Jason & Karen.


Ps Adam do you read my thread Embaresment i think i spoke to you in there..Not sure.

[scarry]

We use Penrite 20w/60 i think it is in our Mitsi work vans,because they drink anything else.
We also find as the k's get up on the oil,they seem to use it more.We also over fill em 10mm on the dipstick & never have any probs,it just goes a bit longer between top ups.
After you change the oil & filter,always top up with the same oil,don't use any other.

good luck

[DEFENDERZOOK]

to diagnose if its the valve guides or seals.....just let the engine idle for 5 mins......
then give it a rev......if you see a big puff of smoke......then they are worn......



idling...allows the oil to build up on the valves and guides.....then opening up the throttle sucks this in
and blows it out the exhaust.......

[banjo]

to diagnose if its the valve guides or seals.....just let the engine idle for 5 mins......
then give it a rev......if you see a big puff of smoke......then they are worn......



idling...allows the oil to build up on the valves and guides.....then opening up the throttle sucks this in
and blows it out the exhaust.......



I will do that first thing in the morning as its the quickest & easyest Will let use all know...Fatty just said she is pretty sure thats what is happening...

[banjo]

Going to do the test & get the info now..

[banjo]

OK went & done the tests use said to do.
The plugs are NGK BP6EFS with the number 13 under
I started the car & warmed it up it was blowing a little smoke very little.I let it idle for a bit then we reved it up & no smoke when reved but it did blow smoke at the bottom of the rev when it was coming down from the rev.Haven't had a chance to have it followed down a hill yet..
Took some pics again.
Plugs are all the same so only took the one out this time as i only had them out when i showed use last time..
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/9450/dsc00013or.th.jpg (http://img340.imageshack.us/i/dsc00013or.jpg/)

http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/202/dsc00014tp.th.jpg (http://img697.imageshack.us/i/dsc00014tp.jpg/)

http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/8940/dsc00015j.th.jpg (http://img686.imageshack.us/i/dsc00015j.jpg/)

http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/8228/dsc00016yv.th.jpg (http://img63.imageshack.us/i/dsc00016yv.jpg/)

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/7435/dsc00019y.th.jpg (http://img717.imageshack.us/i/dsc00019y.jpg/)

OIL on the dipstick

http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/5039/dsc00021u.th.jpg (http://img85.imageshack.us/i/dsc00021u.jpg/)

Finger after wiping tail pipe..

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/3336/dsc00022a.th.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/i/dsc00022a.jpg/)


Ok i found this engine oil resealer at super crap autos

OIL RESEALER BY liqui moly
300ml
Rejuvernates dried out seals
Reduces oil CONSUMPTION
Stops blue exhaust smoke
Suitable for Petrol, Diesel & lpg engines..

That what it does , should i get some & see if it works.
I still think its in the valve train somewhere , But i have been known to be wrong..

[Grockle]

aye up Jas,I see your having fun again

[akelly]

It sounds like there is some smoke when you back off after reving - is that right?

I wouldn't bother with any of the potions, I dont like them - but others may disagree :angel:

Plugs are correct and look good, I dont think you have a big problem - maybe just valve stem seals. I cant remember if you said its still using oil?

Cheers,

Adam

[banjo]

Hi Adam yep thats it smoke when back off after reving .
It used just under a quarter on the dipstick since the move close to a month.

[akelly]

Jase, I'm not saying this is 100% iron-clad for sure, but it certainly has all the halmarks of dodgy valve stem seals. At least thats what I would be replacing if mine had those symptoms.

For what its worth, the quick way to replace them is to make an airline adaptor that screws into your spark plug thread. Most people use an old spark plug, gut it and braze a fitting for an airline to it. You then screw it in, run your compressor (which keeps the valves from dropping into the cylinder) then remove the valve springs one at a time and replace the seals, putting the springs back on before you move to the next cylinder. Its a bit of a bastard job but it saves replacing a head gasket and its pretty quick once you get the hang of it. To be honest, it is actually a real bastard - especially if you drop a collet into an oil gallery... :wasntme:

You're pretty handy, you would be better off to just pull the head and do it properly. A short term fix is to put a heavier oil in - but be warned, it may go for another 10 years like that!

Hope that all helps and I'm not being too condescending.

Cheers,

Adam

[DEFENDERZOOK]

sounds like its your valve guides or valve stem seals......or both........


when you closed off the throttle after giving the engine a rev......the manifold vacuum sucked oil in through the valve guides......
and thats what you saw out the back.....

if it was your piston rings......holding the revs at about 2000 rpm would cause the engine to start blowing smoke.......

just keep driving as normal and keep an eye on your oil level......


when was it last changed......and what oil was used.......?

[Bigbjorn]

Jase, I'm not saying this is 100% iron-clad for sure, but it certainly has all the halmarks of dodgy valve stem seals. At least thats what I would be replacing if mine had those symptoms.

For what its worth, the quick way to replace them is to make an airline adaptor that screws into your spark plug thread. Most people use an old spark plug, gut it and braze a fitting for an airline to it. You then screw it in, run your compressor (which keeps the valves from dropping into the cylinder) then remove the valve springs one at a time and replace the seals, putting the springs back on before you move to the next cylinder. Its a bit of a bastard job but it saves replacing a head gasket and its pretty quick once you get the hang of it. To be honest, it is actually a real bastard - especially if you drop a collet into an oil gallery... :wasntme:

You're pretty handy, you would be better off to just pull the head and do it properly. A short term fix is to put a heavier oil in - but be warned, it may go for another 10 years like that!

Hope that all helps and I'm not being too condescending.

Cheers,

Adam

If you ae going to do this, turn each cylinder up to TDC before removing the collets and springs.

Old used car dealer trick for valve stem seals. Use a piece of fuel injection hose that is a neat slip fit over the valve stem. Cut it just long enough that it will concertina slightly when the valve is open. Works a treat.

[banjo]

sounds like its your valve guides or valve stem seals......or both........


when you closed off the throttle after giving the engine a rev......the manifold vacuum sucked oil in through the valve guides......
and thats what you saw out the back.....

if it was your piston rings......holding the revs at about 2000 rpm would cause the engine to start blowing smoke.......

just keep driving as normal and keep an eye on your oil level......


when was it last changed......and what oil was used.......?

I changed the oil about 7 months ago its just the cheap bilo crap..
I'm looking for another blue head at the moment to set up for the unleaded so i will probably just keep an eye on it for a little while (a few weeks). & then just rip it off i haven't put any coolant in it just yet as was making sure the overheating was fixed so i can do that as well..
I was pretty sure it was valves somewhere. just wanted to get a reasurance as such..
THANKS guys
Jason & Karen..

[banjo]

If you ae going to do this, turn each cylinder up to TDC before removing the collets and springs.

Old used car dealer trick for valve stem seals. Use a piece of fuel injection hose that is a neat slip fit over the valve stem. Cut it just long enough that it will concertina slightly when the valve is open. Works a treat.


Na i think i will just take it off & do it..
I couldn't bring myself to do the hose over the valve stem . I would be paranoid to much after doing that..(SHUDDER)

[banjo]

Jase, I'm not saying this is 100% iron-clad for sure, but it certainly has all the halmarks of dodgy valve stem seals. At least thats what I would be replacing if mine had those symptoms.

For what its worth, the quick way to replace them is to make an airline adaptor that screws into your spark plug thread. Most people use an old spark plug, gut it and braze a fitting for an airline to it. You then screw it in, run your compressor (which keeps the valves from dropping into the cylinder) then remove the valve springs one at a time and replace the seals, putting the springs back on before you move to the next cylinder. Its a bit of a bastard job but it saves replacing a head gasket and its pretty quick once you get the hang of it. To be honest, it is actually a real bastard - especially if you drop a collet into an oil gallery... :wasntme:

You're pretty handy, you would be better off to just pull the head and do it properly. A short term fix is to put a heavier oil in - but be warned, it may go for another 10 years like that!

Hope that all helps and I'm not being too condescending.

Cheers,

Adam

Now thats the SCARRY way to do it...
It would be my luck i would drop a valve..

[akelly]

As Brian said, if you have the piston at TDC the valve cant drop right in - the trick is to keep pressure upwards so you can get the valve spring back on.

After gobbing off about it I think its probably easier to just take the head off! Especially if you dont have the jigger already. Its been at least 17 years since I did one this way... I'd probably just try thicker oil and see what happens (I'm a lazy bugger though).

Cheers,

Adam

[scarry]

Now thats the SCARRY way to

It's not the way i would do it either:D:D;)

[DEFENDERZOOK]

the bit you need to be careful with when putting compressed air in the cylinder.....
is to make sure it doesnt push the piston down......as this will turn the engine and open the other valve.....
releasing the pressure and letting the valve drop in the engine.....


fun.....

[banjo]

the bit you need to be careful with when putting compressed air in the cylinder.....
is to make sure it doesnt push the piston down......as this will turn the engine and open the other valve.....
releasing the pressure and letting the valve drop in the engine.....


fun.....


Guranteed thats what would happen to me for sure..:D:cool:

[DEFENDERZOOK]

there is another way.......you push some cord into the cylinder through the sparkplug hole.......then turn the engine till that piston is up........

this will hold the valves........then you just turn the engine back to release the pressure on the cord......and pull it back out.......

[banjo]

Na i'll just stick to finding another head..

I'm a wuss :eek::eek::twisted:

[Bigbjorn]

the bit you need to be careful with when putting compressed air in the cylinder.....
is to make sure it doesnt push the piston down......as this will turn the engine and open the other valve.....
releasing the pressure and letting the valve drop in the engine.....


fun.....

He has a Series. Just put it in gear.

This is a dead easy job. I have done a number.

I highly recommend the fuel hose trick.

[Hardchina]

yella Terra 12 port....

Yella Terra - Cylinder heads (http://www.yellaterra.com.au/products/car-performance/product-detail/cylinder-heads.cfm)

Don't know what your budget is though, they're out of my league.

[akelly]

Hey Brian,

Can you explain the fuel hose trick? It sounds much simpler.

Cheers,

Adam

[banjo]

yella Terra 12 port....

Yella Terra - Cylinder heads (http://www.yellaterra.com.au/products/car-performance/product-detail/cylinder-heads.cfm)

Don't know what your budget is though, they're out of my league.

Mine to unfortunately.

[akelly]

I was told that YT dont make holden straight 6 heads anymore - I've been chasing a good SH one for ages (that's not more expensive than they were new!).

Most of the ones I've seen advertised are just standard heads with a dodgy port job. :mad:

[Bigbjorn]

Hey Brian,

Can you explain the fuel hose trick? It sounds much simpler.

Cheers,

Adam

Use a spark plug threaded adaptor and compressed air to hold the valves closed, remove the valve spring, slip a piece of fuel injection hose that is of sufficient diameter to be a close sliding fit over the valve stem and long enough to concertina when the valve opens. Thus no oil can be sucked into the worn valve guide. The piece of hose should be shorter than the distance from the top of the guide to then underside of the spring retainer to allow some lubrication of the stem.

[banjo]

Use a spark plug threaded adaptor and compressed air to hold the valves closed, remove the valve spring, slip a piece of fuel injection hose that is of sufficient diameter to be a close sliding fit over the valve stem and long enough to concertina when the valve opens. Thus no oil can be sucked into the worn valve guide. The piece of hose should be shorter than the distance from the top of the guide to then underside of the spring retainer to allow some lubrication of the stem.

Thats a handy hint (trick) i'm going to write that in me book of stuff where i write all good hints for cars..

[akelly]

Now I get it! Very crafty - up there with pepper in the leaky radiator....

[Hardchina]

I was told that YT dont make holden straight 6 heads anymore - I've been chasing a good SH one for ages (that's not more expensive than they were new!).

Most of the ones I've seen advertised are just standard heads with a dodgy port job. :mad:

I think they're back in production - not sure about the alloy version.
basically I dont know nothing, about nothing....

but this would be even better, :D:D i'd have to sell a kidney though :(

http://www.jzedholden6.com.au/jzedgallery/gallery%2FOur_Products%2Fjzed_heads.jpg

[Bigbjorn]

Is that a reproduced Phil. Irving downdraft head for Holden Sixes? Matt Philip, who worked for the Holden Dealer Team and was apprenticed to Harry Firth, had one on an LJ Torana for Autocross. Could blow the socks off V* engined cars of nearly twice its capacity.

[akelly]

I think they're back in production - not sure about the alloy version.
basically I dont know nothing, about nothing....

You are right, Hardchina; I had a look and the heads are back in production! They only do the 12 port version now, but thats cool.

Thanks for the heads-up. One item added to the shopping list for winter... :cool:

Cheers,

Adam