Clearing D4 aux battery tray

[Graeme]

Here's what I did to relocate the control modules occupying the D4 aux battery tray.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/755.jpg

The transfer case ecu was removed from its plastic cover. The ecu is still unsealed same as in the D3 and the cover only prevents dust or water from spilling onto the ecu but not from entering the cover from the bottom. The glow-plug ecu was unbolted from its metal bracket. Both the plastic bracket/cover and the metal one were not re-used.

The alarm horn bracket was temporarily removed and the short horn bracket removed from the main bracket. The wings on the main bracket were flattened (more or less) and an unused bolt stud was cut-off.

The TC ecu bolts directly to the flattened horn bracket using existing holes. 2 bolts and nuts are required.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/756.jpg

The horn is bolted under the lower brake line bracket bolt using one of the longer bolts from the discarded plastic TC ecu bracket, along with a spacer between the short horn bracket and the brake line bracket giving clearance to the turned-up edges of the brake line bracket.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/757.jpg

The main horn bracket now with the TC ecu attached is refitted to its original position. Some additional insulation tape was used on the wires close to the connectors to prevent possible chafing on the metal bracket.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/758.jpg

The glow-plug ecu is bolted through the hole in the engine side of the box where an unused white plastic clip was fitted. It requires a washer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/759.jpg

The large harness connector was temporarily unplugged to remove twist, then the harnesses and connector cable-tied into a group.
The brake lines from the modulator were rotated upwards a little by very slightly loosening the nuts as 1 pipe intruded into the battery space.
The plastic ribs at the bottom front of the tray were removed using an angle grinder. The plastic spacer along the engine side lower edge will also have to be removed to get clearance for a 175mm wide battery.

[sniegy]

You were a busy man this morning;) (8:57am)

:clap2::clap2::clap2::TakeABow:

Cheers Mate.

[Graeme]

Early morning jobs were done so time for some quick distraction playing with the D4 then do the write-up during smoko before the day has a chance to disappear.

[Disco4SE]

Hi Greame, thanks for the info & pics. I had my auto electrician do a similar thing to mine with the fittment of the second battery. I have printed off your photos and intend to show them to see if they did they same thing.

[CaverD3]

Good job Graeme.

I thought it could be done.

Now why didn't Land rover do that. :mad:

They could even make money making it an option.

If they did that and designed the calipers smaller, at least for the Aus market they may well have got all the 4WD mag awards again.:angel:

Graeme, I would seal the module. Cover the back with some bitumised tape and speay the rest with CRC Plasticote.

[Graeme]

Graeme, I would seal the module.
I plan to seal it, but having only blue sensor-safe silicon on hand I thought I'd get some neutral-cure clear so it doesn't stand out so much.

[Disco4SE]

Hi Graeme, checked out my set up today. Pretty much the same as yours except that the silver box thingy (I'm a builder not a mechanic) is mounted against the side and the horn is mounted behind the radiatior. I noticed that the battery they have used has side mounted terminals, not at the top like most batteries. This allows the original plastic cover to be fitted back on. Interested to hear a reply. Cheers, Craig

[Graeme]

What's the battery's Ah capacity? Mine is 80 Ah and has recessed nuts rather than posts but is still too tall by about 20mm.

[Disco4SE]

Hi Graeme, mine is also an 80 Ah. I have just found out that the battery is a dud as it is not holding charge, so my auto elec has ordered me an 'Optima' battery also with side posts. He highly recommends this battery.

[ADMIRAL]

Hi Graeme, mine is also an 80 Ah. I have just found out that the battery is a dud as it is not holding charge, so my auto elec has ordered me an 'Optima' battery also with side posts. He highly recommends this battery.

Hi Disco4SE. I recall you had some pic's when your tray was cleared. Can you provide the detail on the posting ? I can't seem to locate it. I still favour fitting the second battery in the old D3 location, and would like to compare the two that have been cleared so far.

[Disco4SE]

Hi Admiral, I have my new Optima Battery arriving tomorrow (hopefully). I will take some fresh pics and post them. Cheers, Craig

[MrH]

Great job and write-up Graeme. I got pointed at this forum/thread by a fellow member of Disco3.co.uk when I mentioned I was scratching my head about where to fit an Aux battery in the D4 seemingas LR had kindly filled it with electricery - cheers Mate :thumbsup:

Any chance someone has a picture with a battery installed?

[eddomak]

MrH - Try http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/102904-d4-battery-photos.html (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/102904-d4-battery-photos.html)

[Duck's Guts]

Thank you Graeme.

I have followed your example (& excellent instructions) & cleared room for a new aux battery. Without your guideance I would never have undertaken this task.

I used black silicon waterproofing tape (brand name "Tommy Tape" from Bunnings) to wrap the Transmission puter. Used 3m that stretches to a max 9m in length.

One thing that was different: I didn't have the glow-plug ecu to contend with. And I don't know were it is under my hood! (D4 2.7TD).

[gghaggis]

Be aware that LRA are not looking kindly at dual battery installs. They're voiding warranties on certain claims due to the fact that most dual systems assume a std alternator setup (the 2010 models use a generator + earth leakage sensor) and are shorting out the system.

The Traxide system seems to be the only stable altenative, but perhaps Drivesafe can comment further. I believe his system at least got a passing nod from LRA.

Cheers,

Gordon

[Duck's Guts]

This is a typical response for ANY vehicle manufacturer.
Nissan, Toyota, Ford, have all attempted to void warrenty claims when ANY mod performed on a vehicle I've owned. They have all tried to apportion blame from the mod on even completely unrelated problems. The most laughable was a rattle under the dash that was the 'fault' of a bull bar install and aditional weight on the front-end!

So far I don't have any problems / warrenty issues with the D4, but I still have 2.75yrs to go. I'll play fair, and I expect the same from the manufacturer...

[WhiteD3]

Graeme,

Thanks to your great instructions and pics this was easy as :D

I do have one question though; what did you do with this terminal block? I can shove it out of the way (as shown in the 2nd pic) but it was anchored to the TC ECU box in the first place and I'd be happier if it were secured somehow.

http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/2476/img0066bh.jpg

Some pics of the install.

http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/9343/img0061xf.jpg

http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/1487/img0064cc.jpg

[trif]

Hi WhiteD3 (D4?)

I must thank Graeme for the pics as well. It was only last weekend that l cleared my auxillary battery tray, and installed a traxide dual battery kit (with an optima yellow top D34 battery) and 2 permanently powered sockets to the back of the vehicle.

The terminal module you enquire about wedges nicely between the new auxillary battery and the new location for the transfer case ECU (just a little further forward than displayed in your second photo). Some cable ties or double sided tape can be used for extra security if needed. With the traxide kit there is a 30 amp circuit breaker (for the rear 2 sockets)housed in a black plastic box that fits nicely in the same spot where the terminal module is sitting in your photo.

Also, with the traxide kit, the SC80 dual battery controller needs to sit where the glow plug ECU is placed in Graeme's photos. I found enough space below the controller to drill a hole in the wall of the auxillary battery box and secure the gp ECU.

Regards Trif.

[Javii_V7_I]

hi Trif;

You can put any photo?

[trif]

hi Trif;

You can put any photo?

Hi Javii, see photos below. Regards Trif.

[Graeme]

I temporarily unplugged the connector and re-routed it out of the way, where it just sits without any restraint. BTW, that cable runs to the gearbox and is from where I've picked-up the up-shift and down-shift wires.

[outasight]

I temporarily unplugged the connector and re-routed it out of the way, where it just sits without any restraint. BTW, that cable runs to the gearbox and is from where I've picked-up the up-shift and down-shift wires.

Hi Graeme,

Pardon me not keeping up with your adventures, but what have you used/done with those up/down-shift wires? A link so as to not get too far off-topic would be good please!

Regards,

Les.

[Graeme]

Gearshift by remote control...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/131647-d4-steering-wheel-gearshift-switches.html

[Redback]

For those that might like two auxillary batteries in their D4.

Found here
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/118092-discowhites-new-new-lxob-5.html

http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/31473/2371005420100509853S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/47499/2194204230100509853S600x600Q85.jpg

Baz.

[Bytemrk]

So with the assistance of this great thread, I set about clearing the spare battery box on my D4. ( I intend to mount my compressor in front on the primary battery.)

All is looking good, nearly ready for the Traxide kit I ordered earlier this week.

http://www.aulro.com/app/data/1332/medium/Clearing_Battery_Box.jpg

(I am waiting until I get My USI-160 before I work out exactly where to locate the glow unit.)


The following two comments got me pondering sealing the transmission computer:



Graeme, I would seal the module. Cover the back with some bitumised tape and speay the rest with CRC Plasticote.


Thank you Graeme.
I used black silicon waterproofing tape (brand name "Tommy Tape" from Bunnings) to wrap the Transmission puter. Used 3m that stretches to a max 9m in length.

I have some of the same self fusing Silicon tape.

Do people still recommend it?... Do I just wrap the actual aluminium box - should I tape the wiring too (effectively taping the plugs in?)

Thoughts?....

[SuperMono]

I used this thread for inspiration when considering options for the dual battery setup. Moving to the D4 from a D3 I was disappointed to find the nice clear 'battery box' on the R/H side was now full of transfer case ECU and wiring looms.
Where I went in a different direction was that I figured I could maintain the improved protection (from dust/water) that the new location and housing of the transfer case ECU has in the D4. This is for a 2010 2.7L, if you have a 3.0L or later model you probably have more gubbins to move, not sure how well this approach works then.

I relocated the alarm horn over to the firewall near the penetration you will use to run your wiring back into the cabin (sorry no picture).
Junked the bracket, which in mine was actually crushing the wiring to the horn and had exposed the wiring....

Remove the mounting bracket for the ABS solenoid block, file away the three holes for the mounting studs so that you are able to move the complete assembly a couple of mm closer to the side (gives you clearance for the battery clamp bolt later). Add a nut to each of the mounting stud to lift the solenoid block about 10mm higher (gives you clearance under the brake lines for the ECU). Leave the solenoid block hanging free for now so you can more easily get the ECU in place.

Grab your various hacksaws, dremels, files and drills and get destructive.
From the attachments you should be able to work out what to hack off, sorry I took the pictures after doing the nastiness.
Carve off all the extra ears plus the original 'shelf' section that the ECU sits against and shorten by about...... that much (you will work it out), you also need another mounting hole to pick up an existing threaded insert in the tray (again, you will work it out), remember to open up the hole so you can add a metal insert so to prevent the plastic bracket being crushed if you tighten too much.
You will also need to remove some tabs from the side of the plastic ECU cover, it will be obvious what you need to do.
Reroute the ECU wiring whichever way works for you, I tried a few different arrangements, settled on over the top of the master cylinder and some excess length down into the blind depths below.
The next bit is where the swearing might start, you have to assemble the ECU into the modified bracket and cover, with the wiring plugged in, then slide the assembly into place and bolt it down. I did it 3 times in total during this process, you should be able to reduce that by at least 1.

Refit the solenoid block, fit the battery isolator (Traxide, what else), throw in the battery (low profile post clamps recommended), battery clamp and wiring.
Tight fit, but a fit that in my opinion is superior to mounting a battery in front of the starting battery. Plus my compressor still fits neatly in front of the main starting battery (just like a D3).
I still need to tidy up a little, maybe a couple of cable ties here and there, plus I have to add a circuit breaker for my under bonnet Anderson connector.

[l00kin4]

Thanks for this excellent thread. In conjunction with this thread: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/225848-arb-cmk-compressor-traxide-setup.html I'm considering either putting an ARB compressor in this driver's side battery box or moving my second battery to this box and installing the compressor in front of the battery on the passenger side. Leaning toward latter option as compressor will get more ventilation and I've heard these in particular run quite hot.

Just a quick question, more for curiosity than anything else. As per pic below my driver's side battery box seems to only have these connectors, not the mentioned ECU - this makes it easier to clear which is good.

I did buy it used (6 months old) so previous owner may have changed something but seems reasonably unlikely since the connectors are still in place and nothing has been installed in there. Is this normal? With just those connectors moved out of the way will the battery (Optima D34) just slide in with a D3 hold down to keep it in place?

Thanks,
David


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105183&stc=1&d=1454391269

[drivesafe]

Hi David, first off, be careful of fitting the battery in the driver's side battery compartment in late model D4s.

In some it can be done quite simply, while in other it can not be done because the battery can not be secured in place.

The problem is that the mounting thread for the battery hold down bolt can be partially obscured by the ABS unit.

This looks to be the case in your photo, so check first before you try to move things about.

No matter what you decide, you can clear the compartment by first rotating the large black plug and socket and then lifting it out of the base and then it and the green plug and socket can be moved out of the way.

There is also a bracket towards the back of the compartment, on the engine side, which is held in place with a single bolt.

You can remove the bold and digard the bracket.

[l00kin4]

Thanks for the detailed reply Tim. Much appreciated. I'll check that.
David

[Guppy]

Here's what I did to relocate the control modules occupying the D4 aux battery tray.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/755.jpg

The transfer case ecu was removed from its plastic cover. The ecu is still unsealed same as in the D3 and the cover only prevents dust or water from spilling onto the ecu but not from entering the cover from the bottom. The glow-plug ecu was unbolted from its metal bracket. Both the plastic bracket/cover and the metal one were not re-used.

The alarm horn bracket was temporarily removed and the short horn bracket removed from the main bracket. The wings on the main bracket were flattened (more or less) and an unused bolt stud was cut-off.

The TC ecu bolts directly to the flattened horn bracket using existing holes. 2 bolts and nuts are required.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/756.jpg

The horn is bolted under the lower brake line bracket bolt using one of the longer bolts from the discarded plastic TC ecu bracket, along with a spacer between the short horn bracket and the brake line bracket giving clearance to the turned-up edges of the brake line bracket.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/757.jpg

The main horn bracket now with the TC ecu attached is refitted to its original position. Some additional insulation tape was used on the wires close to the connectors to prevent possible chafing on the metal bracket.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/758.jpg

The glow-plug ecu is bolted through the hole in the engine side of the box where an unused white plastic clip was fitted. It requires a washer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/759.jpg

The large harness connector was temporarily unplugged to remove twist, then the harnesses and connector cable-tied into a group.
The brake lines from the modulator were rotated upwards a little by very slightly loosening the nuts as 1 pipe intruded into the battery space.
The plastic ribs at the bottom front of the tray were removed using an angle grinder. The plastic spacer along the engine side lower edge will also have to be removed to get clearance for a 175mm wide battery.

Hi All,

I used Graeme's excellent guide to clearing the tray and now have installed the ARB compressor I had sitting in its carry case for sometime - very happy with the result although wish I had smaller less FAT fingers as it was an effort securing the compressor bracket to the baseplate with the screws in very awkward positions :)

[JustinSyd]

Hi David,

I'm interested to know what solution you went with? I have the same configuration on my MY16 LR Disco SDV6 HSE.
148228

Regards,

Justin

[l00kin4]

Hi Justin,

I ended up putting the compressor in the driver's side battery box as the nutsert for the battery tie down bracket was obscured by the ABS unit. All the details are in this thread: ARB CMK Compressor/ Traxide setup (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/225848-arb-cmk-compressor-traxide-setup-5.html)

David


Hi David,

I'm interested to know what solution you went with? I have the same configuration on my MY16 LR Disco SDV6 HSE.
148228

Regards,

Justin

[JustinSyd]

Hi Justin,

I ended up putting the compressor in the driver's side battery box as the nutsert for the battery tie down bracket was obscured by the ABS unit. All the details are in this thread: ARB CMK Compressor/ Traxide setup (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/225848-arb-cmk-compressor-traxide-setup-5.html)

David

Thanks David, I'm reading through the other thread now. I think ill be following suit.