bbyer
22nd April 2010, 11:43 AM
While it will be years before I know if it actually works, I have installed a capacitive corrosion control device on my LR3. I purchased the device out of the States, however I discovered it while surfing Australian web sites. http://www.counteractrust.com.au (http://www.counteractrust.com.au/)
The biggest problem I had was finding two only 2 inch (50 mm) square flat metal surfaces in opposing corners of the 3. As below, for the front located coupler pad, I found a suitable spot sort of under the air filter box located in the right front of the engine compartment. (4.4 petrol V8). For the rear pad, I installed the pad down low in the tail light area below the Rear heater / AC fan assembly.
One can sort of see the front coupler in the picture, (the brighter white patch), but for the rear, one can only follow the loop of black flex wire loom as runs from the right to left and then drops down below and behind to a flat area that one cannot see, but that you can feel.
The power supply is attached with supplied 3M sticky to the flat black plastic surface under the antilock brake lines in the Aux battery bay. The single white colour electrical conductor that runs to the rear coupler I fished thru that unused firewall empty rubber grommet hole reserved for the clutch hydraulic line.
Regarding installation, just to make the install process as bit less simple, a few days prior to sticking the coupler pads to the painted metal of the 3, re the front pad, I sprayed some clear coat paint to the area where the pad was to be installed. With regards to the rear, I attempted to “wipe” some of the clear coat over the existing paint.
My reason for this is that the coupler surface is not to be in direct contact with bare metal – the coupler is supposed to be some sort of capacitor, not a conductor. While there is certainly paint on the metal surfaces in both locations, it was not clear to me that the factory paint was much more than a single primer coat, hence my attempt at an extra thickness of paint material.
Contrary to some posts I have read, when in operation, there is no noise, (whine or otherwise), that emanates from the power supply – just a red flashing LED, (2 pulses per second), to indicate that all is well.
The biggest problem I had was finding two only 2 inch (50 mm) square flat metal surfaces in opposing corners of the 3. As below, for the front located coupler pad, I found a suitable spot sort of under the air filter box located in the right front of the engine compartment. (4.4 petrol V8). For the rear pad, I installed the pad down low in the tail light area below the Rear heater / AC fan assembly.
One can sort of see the front coupler in the picture, (the brighter white patch), but for the rear, one can only follow the loop of black flex wire loom as runs from the right to left and then drops down below and behind to a flat area that one cannot see, but that you can feel.
The power supply is attached with supplied 3M sticky to the flat black plastic surface under the antilock brake lines in the Aux battery bay. The single white colour electrical conductor that runs to the rear coupler I fished thru that unused firewall empty rubber grommet hole reserved for the clutch hydraulic line.
Regarding installation, just to make the install process as bit less simple, a few days prior to sticking the coupler pads to the painted metal of the 3, re the front pad, I sprayed some clear coat paint to the area where the pad was to be installed. With regards to the rear, I attempted to “wipe” some of the clear coat over the existing paint.
My reason for this is that the coupler surface is not to be in direct contact with bare metal – the coupler is supposed to be some sort of capacitor, not a conductor. While there is certainly paint on the metal surfaces in both locations, it was not clear to me that the factory paint was much more than a single primer coat, hence my attempt at an extra thickness of paint material.
Contrary to some posts I have read, when in operation, there is no noise, (whine or otherwise), that emanates from the power supply – just a red flashing LED, (2 pulses per second), to indicate that all is well.