extra tank in the D3

[connock]

Im about to fit a 92Lt long rang tank to my D3, this tank do,s not have a transfer pump, it is conected via a pipe only and drains into the main tank. My question is how will this afect the Lts/100 kms and distance to empty? display, do I have to tell the ecu that the tank now holds 174 Lts? The fuel gauge I would imagine would work normally.
Or will I just have to work my ecconomy out with a calculator again like my old defender.

[ADMIRAL]

Hi Connock. More data required I think. Where is the tank located ? If it sits higher and is purely gravity feed, your OE fuel gauge will just read full for longer, and once the fuel from the reserve tank has drained out, you are back to a std setup and fuel readings.
Others may be able to advise if the fuel gauge can be recalibrated, I suspect not. I cannot see any practical way it could work. It will likely be linked to a sender in the main tank, and as such can only read what is in that tank.

[rmp]

Hi Connock. More data required I think. Where is the tank located ? If it sits higher and is purely gravity feed, your OE fuel gauge will just read full for longer, and once the fuel from the reserve tank has drained out, you are back to a std setup and fuel readings.
Others may be able to advise if the fuel gauge can be recalibrated, I suspect not. I cannot see any practical way it could work. It will likely be linked to a sender in the main tank, and as such can only read what is in that tank.

Agreed. L/100km won't be affected as that's calcualted from fuel used not fuel stored. Odd way of doing it, most units use an electric pump and have a seperate gauge.

[connock]

It is perhaps a strange way for LR but quite the norm for say cruisers. Its a tank from Opposite Lock and it siphens to the main tank and is still fitted where the spare useto go. Thats right Admiral the gauge would just stay on full and start comming down when the extra tank is empty.
So guys in your oppinions should I just get (have not payed for tank yet ) a 110lt tank with the transfer pump?

[Owl]

It is perhaps a strange way for LR but quite the norm for say cruisers. Its a tank from Opposite Lock and it siphens to the main tank and is still fitted where the spare useto go. Thats right Admiral the gauge would just stay on full and start comming down when the extra tank is empty.
So guys in your oppinions should I just get (have not payed for tank yet ) a 110lt tank with the transfer pump?

If it's a siphon tank, it only need to have the smallest of air leaks in the system and it will not empty. I'd opt for the pump feed. If it's gravity feed, it may be OK.

Ian

[rmp]

It is perhaps a strange way for LR but quite the norm for say cruisers. Its a tank from Opposite Lock and it siphens to the main tank and is still fitted where the spare useto go. Thats right Admiral the gauge would just stay on full and start comming down when the extra tank is empty.
So guys in your oppinions should I just get (have not payed for tank yet ) a 110lt tank with the transfer pump?

As above, and I like the second gauge aspect. If the pump fails you can always manually transfer.

[Bushwanderer]

I agree with those above.

I must admit to being uncomfortable at being in "la la" land, not knowing how much, if any, fuel is left in the auxiliary tank.

Best Wishes,
Peter

[connock]

Thanks guys
you all made my mind up and I will go for the transfer pump type.
That was easy, love this forum.:eek:

[allanj]

A good idea I reckon to go with something like the longranger which has a pump and gauge.

I assume it is not a syphon system, but a gravity setup.

If so surely the bottom of the tank will be lower than the axle (moving part)
SO you may have a vulnerable hose running between the two tanks.

If the hose comes off do both tanks leak fuel out?

[Mully]

Howdy connock.. I've got an aux tank in my D3 if you wanna take a look at it any time, I'm south. It was in when I got the D3 a few weeks ago. The little leccy gauge is a bit average and when you hit the mini transfer button and it makes the usual racket.... not sure how it decides to turn itself off either... I've got no info on the unit unfortunately.

Can say the aux tank will come in handy on coming trips and so far after some fairly crazy offroad adventures testing the beast out, the aux tank has only copped only one small ding which says a lot for the profile and where it sits. A good investment all round.

Cheers.

[ADMIRAL]

Hi Mully.

If you have some pics of your tank & switch, it should be relatively easy to identify. Not too many manufacturers for a D3/D4 tank.
Most ( if not all ) transfer pumps on D3/D4 installations, will be manually switched. It could be the racket yours makes, is when it is pumping dry. Not a good idea. Best to shut it down quickly.

[Mully]

Hey Admiral thanks for that, much appreciated. Will take some snaps in the daylight for sure.. be great to find out a bit more.
When it was rowdy I pushed the little switch on the LED gauge but it kept running BUT I am unsure of the operation of this unit.
Apologies for the thread hijack but hopefully this may be useful for others.
Cheers!

[Graeme]

My question is how will this afect the Lts/100 kms and distance to empty?
L/100 is obtained from fuel usage from the injector open time, nothing to do with what's gone from the tank. Distance to empty is calculated from what fuel the gauge says is in the tank. If you add fuel to the tank, the distance to empty increases.

[connock]

Thanks Graeme
I am after the input I got, going to go for a 110lt tank with transfer pump. I just liked the simple sound of not more electrics.
I drove a 130 for the last 9 years and Im still geting my head around so much electrics and to think they dont leak electricity never lone oil :D