Repairing rust on galvanised tub parts

[drifter]

Hi,

I have done a bit of searching on the forum but can't (yet) find an answer for this one...

On my 2a, I am seeing rust on the (galvanised?) tub parts that are normally unpainted.

For example, the 'inside' edge of the top rail on the tailgate and on the rear right corner just below the stoplight.

How would you repair these?

I am thinking, if the worst comes to the worst, of sanding them and painting them black (to provide definition) or painting them the same as the rest of the vehicle. I don't really want to do this as I feel that the clean metallic edges provide some sort of nostalgia and definition to the vehicle.

Any other suggestions?

[d@rk51d3]

If you want to keep the galv look, you might need to remove the bits, and have them hot dipped again.

If you're happy to paint, I'd wirewheel/sand, cold galv then epoxy enamel.

[drifter]

If you want to keep the galv look, you might need to remove the bits, and have them hot dipped again.

If you're happy to paint, I'd wirewheel/sand, cold galv then epoxy enamel.

Thanks

How would it look if I just did the wirewheel/sand, cold galv bit? I actually hadn't remembered that you can get cans of cold galv. Does it clean up OK?

[d@rk51d3]

From my experience, the pressure pack cans leave a Matt/frosty finish you may not be too happy with. Not sure about the brush-on stuff. Still probably not ideal for a "finish" coat.


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[101RRS]

If you do not want to regal - why not just clean up - etch prime all the gal sections and paint in a similar colour hammerite type paint - would look something like the original gal.

Garry

[drifter]

If you do not want to regal - why not just clean up - etch prime all the gal sections and paint in a similar colour hammerite type paint - would look something like the original gal.

Garry

Thanks Garry. If you know of any trustworthy regalv outfits in Canberra, send me a PM?

At this point in time I am exploring the options. When I decide which option will be the best, I will have to do it to all of the exposed bits so I want to be careful with my choice.

[101RRS]

Thanks Garry. If you know of any trustworthy regalv outfits in Canberra, send me a PM?


I don't think there are any. Wollongong, Albury or Sydney.

Garry

[drifter]

I don't think there are any. Wollongong, Albury or Sydney.

Garry

ooo-kay

That's one option off the list.

I'll start looking into paint.

Thanks

[Lostkiwi]

ooo-kay

That's one option off the list.

I'll start looking into paint.

Thanks


driter
Can you please pass on what sort of paint etc you use and what the finished product looks like. As I'm not to far away from heading down the same path:)
Cheers
Neil

[drifter]

Sure, Neil

If I decide to paint them black then I will go with:

wire brush the rust off
Wattyl Killrust Fishoilene
Wattyl Killrust Etch Primer
Wattyl Killrust Epoxy Gloss Enamel

I have used them on several projects - they flow on beautifully, require very little re-sanding and just look great.

I buy them in pressurised cans - but you can get the brush-on versions, too.

I don't know if you can get them on Norfolk but, if you can, try them out - pure magic.

[isuzutoo-eh]

Learning from someone else's experience:
Only because I had some left decanted, I painted Penetrol on some of the marred gal cappings. It gives it a permanent wet look, which is probably ok in Tasmania, but I don't recommend it for those in drier climes.

[drifter]

Learning from someone else's experience:
Only because I had some left decanted, I painted Penetrol on some of the marred gal cappings. It gives it a permanent wet look, which is probably ok in Tasmania, but I don't recommend it for those in drier climes.


Thanks - this is the sort of feedback I am looking for.

[Lostkiwi]

Sure, Neil

If I decide to paint them black then I will go with:

wire brush the rust off
Wattyl Killrust Fishoilene
Wattyl Killrust Etch Primer
Wattyl Killrust Epoxy Gloss Enamel

I have used them on several projects - they flow on beautifully, require very little re-sanding and just look great.

I buy them in pressurised cans - but you can get the brush-on versions, too.

I don't know if you can get them on Norfolk but, if you can, try them out - pure magic.


Thanks
I've been using the Wattyl 3 part series on my rebuild, so I'm heading in right direction anyway:)
As you say there "pure magic"
I haven't used the fishoilene But have been using part one -Rust Kill then part Two the Etch Primer and top off with part Three the Epoxy Enamel.
So far so good!:cool:

[drifter]

Thanks
I've been using the Wattyl 3 part series on my rebuild, so I'm heading in right direction anyway:)
As you say there "pure magic"
I haven't used the fishoilene But have been using part one -Rust Kill then part Two the Etch Primer and top off with part Three the Epoxy Enamel.
So far so good!:cool:

What colour Epoxy Enamel are you using? I tried their Greens but they weren't what I was looking for - so I emailed them for a colour chart - and they still didn't have anything close to what I wanted. I then went back to using the primer and have been spraying a topcoat on that - sticks well. Make sure you don't have any epoxy enamel on if you use a different top coat - it bubbles. Don't ask me how I know :blush:

As for Part 1 - I went down to the shops about an hour ago and discovered that they also do Cold Galvit for the part 1 of the series.

I have sprayed some on and will let you know how it turns out.

[Lostkiwi]

What colour Epoxy Enamel are you using? I tried their Greens but they weren't what I was looking for - so I emailed them for a colour chart - and they still didn't have anything close to what I wanted. I then went back to using the primer and have been spraying a topcoat on that - sticks well. Make sure you don't have any epoxy enamel on if you use a different top coat - it bubbles. Don't ask me how I know :blush:

As for Part 1 - I went down to the shops about an hour ago and discovered that they also do Cold Galvit for the part 1 of the series.

I have sprayed some on and will let you know how it turns out.


So far Ive just being using the gloss Enamel Black [still painting the chassis]
And yes I have found out that it does bubble if you use a different product:(
Its pretty limited on what colours i can get Black,Green,Blue,Grey,Red oh and Yellow for something different:)
What i have been doing is Wire brushing the larger parts with an angle Grinder The smaller ones are getting sand blasted!
With the larger ones First coat is with the Kill Rust then Etch Primer and finally the Enamel over the top The smaller ones just a primer then top coat.
It's going to be interesting to see how long it last over here!!! As every time the wind blows everything gets a good coating of salt spray!!:mad:
I might have to try and talk the local hardware shop into up dating there products HA HA!!:wallbash:
Anyhow I will be interested to see how the Cold Galvit spray goes:)
Let us Know thanks:D

[drifter]

so - 2 months later and I am just getting back to this...

The spray-on ColdGalvit isn't special - but it will do for now. If I muck around much longer nothing will get done and painting season is upon us again (warmer weather) for a week or two.

[lister]

If you are going to paint the cappings the stuff which I've found to give the closest approximation to galvanising is KBS rustseal galvanised steel, (http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/)
Its a moisure cure urethane, it drys to a hard finish very quickly looks very like galvanising but is perhaps a bit glossy, you can overcome this by cutting it back with wet and dry . Only drawback I've found is if you change your mind and decide to galvanise its very difficult to get off. POR-15 (http://www.ppcco.com.au/prevention.htm)seems to be an identical product but its a bit more expensive.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Two issues.

Galvanising
If you decide to have the parts re-galvanised, make sure that you completely remove all traces of the original galvanising and particularly any paint. You can do this by sand blasting or by paint stripping off the paint and soaking the part/s in a molasses bath (between 10:1 to 4:1 water: molasses depending how quickly you want it de-rusted and stripped. Be careful a molasses bath will dissolve all white metals like aluminium or zinc.
Check examples of their work before handing your parts to them.
Best to do it in warm weather not cold as the zinc crystallizes to quickly in winter.
Don't have it done first thing on a Monday as the bath may still be too cold, best at end of the day on a Wednesday or Thursday (Friday they may be too rushed to do a good job). So deliver it to them middle of a Monday if poss.
Take the parts to the galvaniser as soon as possible after coming out of a molasses bath as the surface rust will appear within hours.
Have the galvaniser skim the slag off the bath before dipping.
Have the galvaniser centrifuge (spin) your parts when they come out of the bath. If they wont centrifuge find another galvaniser.
Re-galvanising can embrittle the part.

Painting
A mix of wheel silver and silvafrost applied with an artists brush will give a reasonable match to the original gal.

Diana

[drifter]

Thanks Diana

We don't have the luxury of choice of galvanisers here in Canberra.

[peterg1001]

Check examples of their work before handing your parts to them.
Best to do it in warm weather not cold as the zinc crystallizes to quickly in winter.
Don't have it done first thing on a Monday as the bath may still be too cold, best at end of the day on a Wednesday or Thursday (Friday they may be too rushed to do a good job). So deliver it to them middle of a Monday if poss.
Take the parts to the galvaniser as soon as possible after coming out of a molasses bath as the surface rust will appear within hours.
Have the galvaniser skim the slag off the bath before dipping.
Have the galvaniser centrifuge (spin) your parts when they come out of the bath. If they wont centrifuge find another galvaniser.
Re-galvanising can embrittle the part.


And if you want all of the above to go wrong, take your parts to <deleted by moderator: No naming and shaming vendors on AULRO - see FAQ>. As an optional extra, they will also snap your hood sticks, and give you back some parts with the zinc coat peeling off in chunks.

There are three other galvanisers in Sydney. If anyone can make a good recommendation, I'd be pleased to hear from them.

Peter

[hot rover]

I have worked in a company that did Galvanising some years ago, and we used Galvanising Sticks to repair the surface after any repairs. I think they come from BOC. The process is easy heat the metal rub the Gal Stick over the area and rub with a wire brush.
Cheers
Rod

[drifter]

Lots of good suggestions - thanks