A 100 inch Defender?

[trobbo]

Am getting bored without a serious off road machine atm and was thinking about what I would like to build next.

A defender would be cool... At least it can legally take a bigger wheel than my previous RR's or D1.

what about wheel base. 90 - nah too short. 110 - nah too long. A 100 inch wheel base would be about right and that just so happens to be an RR.

SO if building a 100 inch defender wagon do you start?
* with a 110 and cut it all down,
* a 90 and stretch it, or
* a RR or similiar chassis and plonk a defender body on top? Could even be a D2 chassis, running gear and trim wrapped in the utalitarion defender body.

And before you ask why, ask why not? It's something different and because I think it would be cool.

[stefan_bonnici]

Hi there an RR chassis with a defender body would be the best way to go. Mark evans buit one maybe you should get hold of " A 4x4 is born " its about a rr chassis with a defender body on it

it will be a great machine. There where only a few of these built as prototypes for the swiss army.

1976-1986: The Land Rover 100" Prototypes
1976: The prototype 100" (wheelbase) Land Rover was originally built on a Range Rover chassis, and so became the first coil-sprung 'Land Rover'. The inner front wings were cut to make place for the suspension turrets. The front of the vehicle is Stage 1, which was not yet in production. Over a number of years, Land-Rover experimented with different wheelbases and spring configurations. Land Rover set up a development team to set up a short and a long wheelbase version of this vehicle, i.e. a 90 and a 110. However money being tight, the project was hampered until the Swiss Army showed an interest in the existing 100" version. The 100" was being developed mainly towards military sales, and so were actively promoted around 1978/9 to the Swiss and French military. In 1978 a fleet of 15 vehicles was built for the Swiss. They were constructed from a collection of parts from Series III, Stage 1's, 110's and Range Rovers. It is believed that they covered every combination of left-and right-hand steering, engines etc. In the end both countries bought other products. The project continued, and over time went through at least 70 experimental versions. Various body styles and engine configurations were experimented with, from 2.25 litre Diesel Soft Tops to 3.5 litre V8 Station Wagons. The project was ended with the release of the '90', and many of the prototypes were destroyed or sold on to Land Rover employees.
http://www.lr-mad.co.uk/pics/bac779t.jpg
Land Rover 100 inch prototype.
http://www.lr-mad.co.uk/pics/100inch.jpg http://www.lr-mad.co.uk/pics/1979-100inch.jpg
1979 Land Rover 100 inch prototype.


And this is the one Mark Evans and discovery channel Built for the show


http://www.a4x4isborn.com/images/a-4x4-is-born-finished.jpg The finished vehicle - drop dead gorgeous!



Good luck Mate !

[Lotz-A-Landies]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

And the DVD

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[trobbo]

well I'm obviously not going to be the first to do it then, will have to pick up a copy of that dvd.

Saw a build project that a pommy bloke did a while back of a yellow RR that he built to race in a russian event that was quite inspiring. Cant find the links for that now though

[Psimpson7]

There are hundreds of these hybrids in the UK.

The rear wheel arch of a 90 can be extended the 7.1" it needs to run a 100 wheelbase. However while this is the neatest and probably the easiest option, its would also, over here, be the most expensive.

Rgds
Pete

[Mick_Marsh]

I have one.

here are two

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/victorian-reports/26121d1276501157-wombat-camp-play-june-12th-qb-weekend-dscf0893.jpg

[trobbo]

here's the link to the yellow rr I was talking about.
Super 8 Racing KFT (http://www.super8racing.com/English%20contents2.htm)

there are a couple of dakar's on ebay uk for 8 - 10K aussie which would always make for an interesting ride.

But in a 100inch defender I was thinking more of a full bodied wagon much like the prototype above.

If you built it on a 77 rr chassis, is that what it would be registered as?

[Mick_Marsh]

If you built it on a 77 rr chassis, is that what it would be registered as?
Interesting question.
Mine looks like a "SIII St1", It's registered as a "1982 L ROV UTIL", the compliance plate says it's a "1981 Land Rover Hardtop 4cyl Diesel" and the engineers report describes it as a "1981 Landrover Hardtop Tray 8cyl".

[Landy Smurf]

http://www.i2itelevision.com/programmes/images/a_4x4_is_born.jpg http://www.difflock.com/buyersguide/newproducts/4x4born/episode12.jpg

And the DVD

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
we have watched that a few times in auto at school.some people have to much money

[lardy]

you can use a disco chassis as it is 100

[twigman]

One of my mate over in the UK built a couple of 100' defenders.
Used Rangie as chassis as it was less likrly to have been abused.
Then got a 110 body and cut the extra off behind the drivers seats.
Ran it with 5 inch lift 35 simex and it waas unstopable.
Second one he did was a bit different cos he made a four door, I think from memory he cut the body at the rear for that one.
The lats one I remember him makeing was a dlander not sure if you hae them here but its basicly a freelander body on a disco chassis, looks like freelander till it goes over a hump or into a rut and then you see the jaws drop as the axles dislocate.

[Slunnie]

If it were me, I would definately look into stretching the wheelbase of a 90 to 100" through the rear axle.

Gives better rear suspension geometry for power down, minimal body work (fast conversion), standard rear propshaft, better departure angle, bigger tyres standard (depending on your laws), much stronger chassis than a 100" chassis, better factory ground clearance.

[Skiboy]

I agree with Slunnie above. The only constraint in Aust is the cost/availability of a 90 vehicle.

On the other hand 100" (Rangie or Disco) chassis are common and fairly cheap. You can get all your basic running gear and wiring etc in one package and then just need a defender body - and that is the rub. While a Rangie/Disco donor will be cheap the defender panels will not be easy to find (non-rusted firewall in particular) nor cheap.

Well at least that is what I found hence I am building a rangie chassis (1970's so will be engineered and registered under earlier ADRs of chassis age) with a Series 3/Stage One body. This is what I could buy fairly cheaply as donors at the time.

One thing about the seres/defender style body is that they are basically like large meccano sets - everything bolts or rivet together. So you can pull it down, repair, rust proof and paint, then reassemble.

There are a few Stage one Utes around/come up on Ebay so getting one of these and making a cab with tray back on a 100" chassis would be the easiest (least panel work) option as you would simply be transferring the cab to the rangie chassis and adding a tray. You can get some of these bodies for less than $1k.

Here is our build up - engine and gear box (ZF auto and LT230 from a 88 rangie - same as discos) and engine 3.5 injected

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/624.jpg

We are almost at paint stage with final sorting of seats and battery box under seat - when we paint it will look like the following mock up and will be known as Bumblebee.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/199.jpg

We hope to be on the road later this year! All the best with your project.
Skiboy

[brookvale]

These 100 inchers are becoming common! I'm doing exact same thing but using Series II/III body bits ('cos I'm Series nut rather than Deefer...).
So keen was I to keep the Series look that I'm ditching the radiator to the rear tray so I can keep the front panel set back. Will fit electric water pump and seal off engine-driven one.

Was 93 4 dr RR (3.9 with ZF auto and vicious coupling).

Just in tub re-building mode now. Chopped front and back.

Old SII guards used for mock up. Inner guard panelling will be cropped out entirely.
http://lroca.org.nz/test/body trials-11.jpg

Damn all room for rad or fan and worst of all no room for SII headlamps!
http://lroca.org.nz/test/body trials-18.jpg

'real' guards and front panel (SIII) and a Deefer bulkhead (ex UK) being strung up. Mate's MIG ready for tacking on Series outriggers.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/309.jpg

Bulkhead bolted on. Can't go further aft - front panel will hit crank pulley. Trusting that tyres will clear rear part of front arch :))

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/310.jpg

More mock up for rear guard arch location and then measure to chop off front and rear of tub. Love those 70's stripes!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/311.jpg

Front of tub chopped and bulkhead temporarily replaced. Cutting rear.
Lots of drilling out of rivets and swearing :))

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/312.jpg

Rear chopped ready for rear panel to go in.
This is no challenge truck so didn't go for minimum rear overhang. Wanted to try and keep styling neat to suit the Series look (tub is 300mm shorter at the rear than standard SIII 109)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/313.jpg

Chop line went right through middle of fuel filler hole :(
Getting ready to crop rear chassis legs
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/314.jpg

For those interested in the details:
No special tools needed here - just remember the "measure once and live to regret it" motto!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/315.jpg

Getting tricky in here... marking up remembering where all the folds need to go is critical.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/316.jpg

The fun part: having not done anything like this before I just copied the Mark Young DVD approach but without the annealing bit - and it worked!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/317.jpg

Happy to chat with anyone who has questions about the nitty gritty stuff.

Vehicle registration stuff: Here in Godzone, it'll still be a Range Rover as the chassis will be largely unchanged. The welding of new outriggers will need certifying though. Braking and engine/trans will stay standard.

and my own new model name (not for legal stuff)?
A "Series IV"
Someone suggested I recreate the County stripe scheme and replace the 'county' letters with Series IV... :)

Neil
Auckland

[Skiboy]

Thanks for the post Brookvale. Your project is much more straight forward than ours being a body swap. We started with a chassis and built from there with bits from various vehicles - we have done it the hard way. I would advise your path over ours.

As you say a good rangie/disco running gear with series body swap is the perfect combination of classic land rover look and modern running gear/drivability.

The only "adds" I would suggest are deeper cab for comfort/storage, defender doors and wind up windows (can get these new from UK but freight a killer), air conditioning for Qld (for this we are using the rear air con unit from a top spec wrecked disco - cost $100 - going to put this behind the seat).

Re Auto Oil cooler and Water Rad - note re shifting rad to rear. You might like to also consider changing the auto oil cooler to one of the after market little square/rectangular units - cost just over $100 but you should be able to mount it behind the series grill.

We are a few weeks away from starting our the tub for our 100 inch hybrid - just about got back to the seat box ready/refurbished/painted etc. See http://www.aulro.com/afvb/gclro-members-rides/103857-bumblebee-has-got-sting.html for progress.

We plan to do the same as Brookvale with the tub - ie cut both ends - but want to make the cab deeper in the process so we will mount the rear bulkhead further back and make a longer roof for the cab from the Wagon top we have.

So your post re the tub was very informative and useful for planning.
Thanks
Skiboy

[brookvale]

Hi Skiboy - good to be able to swap details.
must admit I hadn't thought of shifting tub bulkhead backwards but did consider swapping it out for a Deefer style tubular frame. Then decided against because I didn't need be able to get into the tray...

Hmmm - might look at inserting an extension panel between seatbox and bulkhead to give more leg room though. Would mean recutting and folding of arches in tub - aarrghh...

Mine will be soft top only plus I deliberately want Series doors (removable door tops :) )
Climate and distances here are much kinder so mine will not be long distance machine and we have minimal (bull) dust problems so no need for A/C or sealing up the cab.

Engine oil cooler - yes - am eyeing up a water-powered cooler - should fit neatly behind engine and hook up to the old heater circuit pipes. then I don't need air powered one.
Might ditch the autogearbox oil aircooler altogether - won't be towing and temps here don't get too high.
There's no room at all up front behind panel and my winch will fill up the outside space there :)

Radiator (standard RR) : plan is to make Series tailgate style frame to house it and with luck, still have it hinged at left hand side to can access tub propelyl. Flexi hoses will need to be very flexy!
Fuel tank will be custom built (poss plastic one) to suit shape close behind tub bulkhead.

Steering, throttle and brake pedal will use RR parts. Entire RR pedal box frame can be fitted with some new sheetmetal work so no need to eff around too much with Series/Def servo mating up to RR brake lines.
This is trial fit. Later it will be angled properly to make reservoir level and for brake pedal to be at decent height...

Thank heavens the Range Rover was designed with all the Series stuff in mind...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/307.jpg

I'll keep you posted as things progress.
Neil

[brookvale]

Skiboy,
One thought
Auto shifter unit : Where are you putting it? - between the seats or in tunnel?

[Skiboy]

Skiboy,
One thought
Auto shifter unit : Where are you putting it? - between the seats or in tunnel?
Just to the left of the hand brake and front and top of the seat box

We will be running a 3 seater configuration using a Commodore 3 seater front seat so needed the tunnel fairly clear and no centre 'console'.

Here is a pic of the almost completed shifter and its location - had to make the bracket and the alloy top that then sanded and clear coated.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/294.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/295.jpg

I also had to shift and modify the transfer case leaver so that used the same hole in the tunnel as the Stage One gear leaver - see below - made a plate to shift it forward and then lengthened the top "hi/low" rod and bent and changed the pivot point for the diff lock leaver - you can see new holes/welds and new section in rod.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/229.jpg

As you will prob make a new tunnel if using series parts (vs Stage One has a larger tunnel hence no changes) you can locate these where you want in your new tunnel.
Skiboy

[brookvale]

Nice work - very impressed. Sadly no can alloy weld - but my mate can...
I have vicious (!) coupling so no need for the difflock gizmo - and yes new tunnel cover needed as seatbox has had to be cut away to fit over the gearbox. Tons of room at forward end.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/293.jpg

[87County]

yes it is nice work and you are to be complemented on it

however, surely the answer to a 100" defender question is a disco

a disco is much cheaper to buy (going, registered for a lot less than $5k) and it can easily be tricked up....

.....and shouldn't this thread be in projects ??????? :o (it hardly seems to be very technical)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

we have watched that a few times in auto at school.some people have to much moneyYes most veterinarians I know are usually up to their armpits in cows nether regions and wear worn out old cardigans. Never rolling in money, except I guess if you have a TV series like Dr Harry, "Bondi Vet" and the "is born" series!

[Mick_Marsh]

Yes most veterinarians I know are usually up to their armpits in cows nether regions and wear worn out old cardigans. Never rolling in money, except I guess if you have a TV series like Dr Harry, "Bondi Vet" and the "is born" series!
You obviously have not met the vets around here.

[brookvale]

;) this all tech for me :)

a Disco? cor blimey mate! them's far too fancy and modern. yes they're cheap, yes easily tricked up but why join the hordes when you can spend hours and hours creating something special?

Our local LR club here is now infested with them, all with bling springs, shocker lockers and orange steelwork underneath...

[Skiboy]

Agree with Brookvale (where is here by the way?) - but there comes a point where you start to wonder about the hours and hours and ask "why am I doing this - why not buy off the shelf?".

Then you make some progress and it is worth while. Or in the case of our Orange Rangie Ute we go on a club drive and while everyone dents panels and rear quarters we avoid all that due to no rear cab (but still electric windows, air con, plenty of room in the cab etc) and suddenly you remember why you set it up in the first place and why the work was worth while.

I reckon a if there was a 100" fender in the market at a decent price they would go like hot cakes. There isn't and 90's are too expensive to bash and 110's too long. So make your own is the only option really.

Skiboy

[trobbo]

When I built the D1 in my avatar about 5 years ago it was one of the first highly modified d1's getting around and did and still does attract plenty of attention. But now it has been copied plenty of times and I think is rather meh, hence this 100 inch defender thread.

Thanks for sharing your builds guys - very interesting.

[spudboy]

Very impressive build Brookvale. I have a lot of shed envy - that setup is just HUGE. High ceilings!

Where are you located? You need to update you profile with your location :D

[brookvale]

Updated the profile stuff... Auckland. Yes the shed is a real treat after skulling around in wet lean-tos and tiny garages for years! Usual problem though: you fill the available space in a flash :)

[p38arover]

A 4x4 is Born is currently showing on Discovery Turbo Max (pay TV). I've been recording both it and A Plane is Born.

Now waiting for A Chopper is Born to be shown. (Not a bike but a helicopter.)

[Skiboy]

Agree with Spudboy re Brookvale's shed - would love a large shed miles from anywhere so can work any hours I want. I am working in carport under house - large enough but suburban noise a limiting factor - often would like to have an extra 2 hours after dinner working. The next place will have a decent wrokshop - the deal is new house and new workshop - a hers and his package!

Trobbo - just re-read your first post. D2 chassis with beefed up axles/diff/cvs and Defender body would be nice BUT you would need a D2 without airbags and no ACE or other electronics that body/dash/suspension dependent (unless you can take this to new body). Would need to look into the ADRs. A defender shortened to 100" would avoid all those problems and would only really need the chassis work to be certified.

Are you looking/thinking cab chassis/tray or wagon for the defender body?

Skiboy

[trobbo]

A tray or ute back would be the easy way to go, but I am more inclined to cut a 4 door wagon down to fitter the 100 inch chassis.

With regs about tyre size and overall lift regularily coming up, I was thinking regardless of end result the taller the car is stock the higher it will finish up, which means perhaps starting with a defender or as I have just thought perhaps a 101, coil spring conversion (maybe gu diff assemblies & brakes etc), 4.6 v8, defender body? a thought - probably wont happen because the project would be just to many $$$$ for the outcome

[Black Dragon]

Check out A 4X4 is born by Mark Evens on you tube, He dose what you are doing step by step it is very good and he dose not get all techie as he is not all techie

[Sitec]

Troppo, built several in the UK, RR chassis or Disco's work well, we use Series wings, and a cut down LWB 109 rear tub, spend the money on Defender bulkhead, screen, bonnet and truck cab, running a home made Stage 1 grille and bingo! Cheep 100"! Have two 109 tubs.....:)

[loanrangie]

Check out A 4X4 is born by Mark Evens on you tube, He dose what you are doing step by step it is very good and he dose not get all techie as he is not all techie

You might want to read page 1.

[sheerluck]

You might want to read page 1.

And look at the date of the thread too. :confused:

[Skiboy]

It is an old thread. 2 years ago I was posting how I was almost finished my 100" build in this thread.

Well this year Bumblebee (of transformer fame) got its first outings. I thought posting a few pics here might inspire others in their projects/aspirations.



Our specs:

1975 RRC Chassis (so can club rego eventually)
3.5 Super charged V8 - nice note and pick-up - still rover so bolts in
Stage one body to pillars - wanted defender but prices crazy for a cab and firewall so wrecked a stage one and sold parts to pay for what we kept
109 Roof, tub and rear doors - tub was cut front and rear as per the video mentioned BUT we shifted the bulkhead in the tub back to that we have a slightly deeper cab by about 300mm
End of RRC chassis cut so custom fuel tank - so shorter
Nissan diffs - LSD in rear open front - keeps up with double lockers - will eventually lock front
LT230 transfer case with X Brake disc hand brake
Disco auto box - auto cooler in front behind aftermarket SS grill from UK
Air con condenser in rear and air con unit from rear of a Jap imported disco mounted behind passenger seat
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/699.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/DSC_0729sml_zps86d03f89.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/700.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/DSC_0675sml-1_zps2dae732e.jpg.html)

The Collection
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/701.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/DSC_0673sml_zps10f20e9b.jpg.html)

With new brush bars
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/702.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/BrushBars8sml_zpsa5ffcd00.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/703.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/DSC_0458sml_zpsd0af9f0c.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/704.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/AifCOnfinished3sml_zps4e2a85f2.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/705.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/AmadaShocks5sml_zps70ec4db2.jpg.html)

Bar Work and other RRC parts supplied by by Greg at Outcast Offroad on the gold coast.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/706.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/BrushBars4sml_zps8f22cdd0.jpg.html)

SKiboy

[Mick_Marsh]

Nice.
I love the extra length in the cab.

[uninformed]

as far as it being a new or old idea, Land Rover themselves built 100inch coil sprung Land Rovers.

[Mick_Marsh]

Yes, but they were military variants for some country on the continent. I'm guessing they're even rarer than 101's.

How many were sold here? I'm tipping a nice round figure.

[Skiboy]

Nice.
I love the extra length in the cab.

Allows room for air con behind passenger seat and fridge behind middle seat and decent speakers and room for other gear

Also have sliding seats for max comfort in driving - extending the cab was best thing we did on project as a way to address main prob with defender cab and lack of seat room.

Skiboy

[Lostkiwi]

Hi all
Just been having a great read thru this post and getting more motivated to get cracking with my Landy/Rangie build.
Ive was giving a 1973 Range Rover 2 door so 90inch is going to be the go!

The truck it self was imported on to the Island in 73 new and has had just 2 owners (me been the 3rd) The rangie body is beyond it rust wise but the chassis is virtually rust free.:)
With just 87000ks on it clock it still drives well (around the garden)

Still making a decision on the body panels ..i have a number of series panel laying about but no fire wall

Have been thinking about robbing the panels off my S2a that i rebuilt a couple of years ago or bringing a fire all in .....or there are a couple of stage one v8s out here all so maybe if i can get hold of one of those I might just get everything i need.

Right off to start striping
Here's a pic before i start

.:):)l:(
s








60935

[Johnno1969]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Is it just me, or is there anybody else who can't see the point in covering a Land Rover in millions of driving lights??? While I'm on it... Light bars: Why?

[Skiboy]

Is it just me, or is there anybody else who can't see the point in covering a Land Rover in millions of driving lights??? While I'm on it... Light bars: Why?

If driving at night on challenging off road with lots of rocks etc then can never have too many lights (front and rear) - including underneath for rocks and repairs.

Particularly spreading beam lights - also handy for finding firewood at night off the side of the track

PS if not upgraded your headlight loom/relays then makes a huge difference for older vehicles (esp where current goes via dash controls/stork)

Skiboy

[Skiboy]

Hi all
Just been having a great read thru this post and getting more motivated to get cracking with my Landy/Rangie build.
Ive was giving a 1973 Range Rover 2 door so 90inch is going to be the go!

The truck it self was imported on to the Island in 73 new and has had just 2 owners (me been the 3rd) The rangie body is beyond it rust wise but the chassis is virtually rust free.:)
With just 87000ks on it clock it still drives well (around the garden)

Still making a decision on the body panels ..i have a number of series panel laying about but no fire wall

Have been thinking about robbing the panels off my S2a that i rebuilt a couple of years ago or bringing a fire all in .....or there are a couple of stage one v8s out here all so maybe if i can get hold of one of those I might just get everything i need.

Right off to start striping


Hey LostKiwi I think you mean a 100 inch - rangie chassis will be about 100inch wheel base not 90 inch. A series/stage one/defender chassis (long wheel base) is about 110/109 inch wheel base depending on model.

If you are looking to plonk a series body on your 2-dr rangie chassis and use the rest of the running gear from the rangie then no series body will have the right space between the wheel arches for the 100 inch rangie wheel base.

You will have the lengthen a short wheel base or shorten a long wheelbase donor body to match the wheel arches (or else cut and fill) plus you will need to cut the chassis/lengthen the chassis or cut the body to fit the length of the chassis. The 4x4 is born video mentioned in the post shows how to cut the body - it will help you visualize what will be needed in body cut down to rangie chassis size.

I note you mentioned having series and stage one panels available - the advantage of a stage one body is two fold:

(1) the front grill is flush with the front of the side panels which means there is room for your V8 radiator and fan assembly in front of the motor - stage one was built to have a v8 behind it hence it fits - series grill and radiator support panel obviously sit back and will need to be moved to fit your V8 radiator - so a Stage One front is ready to go and in fact if you have a good stage one radiator you can use that as it will mount unmodified to the radiator support panel. It will be a whole lot easier and quicker than a series set up.

(2) The Stage One transmission tunnel is larger and will accommodate your gearbox/transfer case without modification. Trick is to get the fire wall in the right place then the rest will line up. In our Bumblebee build (see earlier posts here) I had to make a spacial mount for the transfer case leaver so it fitted through the gear leaver hole (but we are auto so did not have to use the hole for a gear level) - see pics at the end.

Note once you have your firewall sorted you will have to figure out how you are doing your steering and brake/clutch. Unless you get a defender firewall with steering and brake assemblies in place you are going to have to built the match between your rangie steering box and brake lines (ie what on the chassis) and the respective steering column and brake booster on the fire wall.

Rest is fairly easy as just need to build mounts in the right places for the series/stage one/defender bits.

Good luck
Skiboy

Pics
Stage One Radiator support panel and stage one radiator (75 rangie chassis - note mount blocks at bottom of radiator was all I had to add to chassis)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/225.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/OilCoolandGrill2sml.jpg.html)

In this pic of radiator and grill (after market grill from UK) you can see the steering column in the rear - this is a rangie steering column mounted where the stage one steering column used to go
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/226.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/OilCoolandGrillsml.jpg.html)

Tub cutting - we cut both the front and rear of the tub to make it fit the 100 inch rangie chassis - process = measure measure and measure again, drill spot welds and rivets out, cut and shift front and rear bulkheads, rivet again (buy yourself and air rivet gun because the large rivets will kill you - air gun quick and tighter in grabbing)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/227.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/tubcut4.jpg.html)

If the tray is not important you may want to consider making the cab deeper - we extended the cab back adding about 250mm - alloy easy to rivet new bits in - you can see that to get the wheel arch to line up we had to cut about 300mm of the front and rear of a 109 (long wheel base) tub
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/228.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/RoofPart2a-1.jpg.html)

Here is the plate I made up to shift the transfer leaver forward so that used the stage one gear leaver hole
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/229.jpg (http://s835.photobucket.com/user/austskiboy/media/TCLeaverFinalsml.jpg.html)

Hope the pics are useful

[Lostkiwi]

Thanks Skiboy

Thats given me a lot to think about.
Have ordered the A 4X4 is born DVDs for a few more ideas. But just looking at your great pics has helped a lot..

Looks like i need to pull the tape measure out and start measuring. (again) lol

What did you use for your firewall out Riggers are they off the shelf or your own design?

Also how have you set your fuel Tank up? Is it the R/Rover Tank or a series tank?

I can see a lot more questions coming up over the next few months/years

Cheers

[Skiboy]

Outriggers are box section built on top of the rangie front body mounts - the latter cut down at the end

Rangie fuel tank connected to the stage one fuel gauge

We add everything from a stage one back to the B pillar including wiring loom but our engine has after market haltec computer hence only needed 12v supply an then it controls fuel pump - so easy marry up

The less you have to modify the easier and quicker will you build be - every mod/change will take time.

We started with a chassis and built from there - you have a functioning truck - if you keep everything except the body then it will be a quicker build. But every system you change will take time.

Also think through construction as well as deconstruction for repair down the track - this comes from experience as have had to redo some bits.

Good luck skiboy

[goingbush]

http://images.tvrage.com/shows/13/12285.jpg

Is it just me, or is there anybody else who can't see the point in covering a Land Rover in millions of driving lights??? While I'm on it... Light bars: Why?

If you go for a drive any time from dusk to sunrise with someone who has a Lightbar, esp in a Kangaroo area, I guarantee you will go out and buy one the next day.

as for those that mount Cibies etc all over their truck, yes I'm with you on that one.

[Johnno1969]

If you go for a drive any time from dusk to sunrise with someone who has a Lightbar, esp in a Kangaroo area, I guarantee you will go out and buy one the next day.

as for those that mount Cibies etc all over their truck, yes I'm with you on that one.

Yep, understood about 'roos and the like. It's just that I see so many vehicles covered in lights they'll probably never use. I've also wondered about how many lights get smashed up there. I certainly wouldn't have wanted them in any work I have done in heavy bush...

[Skiboy]

I have mine mounted so that can unplug and take the bar off when in low bush/not on trails etc

I guess it all depends what sort of driving you do - in most cases they are not a daily or even weekly use item but when you need them on track or in country/for roos then very useful.

Also very handy for on track repairs/winching - we had a group trip recently where we had a complex steep down hill winch of a wounded vehicle (a frame joint broken) with 3 winches used that extended into the night - all driving lights on two cars were on to light up the work area.