Electric chainsaw sharpeners

[LandyAndy]

Hi Guys
Time for another chainsaw topic.
I have an electric chainsaw sharpener on its way.
Its the cheapo chinese type,the more expensive of the 2 that star on Ebay(Oregon commercial copy)
I would love input from those chainsaw lovers that have used them.We actually have an Oregon sharpener at work bolted to a bench.It isnt used as nobody has ever been able/taken the time to set it up.(disc hasnt even been dressed to the correct profile)We have a jig file expert that keeps the chains in excellent condition as long as nobody else touches them so the machine is dormant.
I have the settings reccomended to me by the bloke who sold me his Husky XP120.
Im setting my sharpener up just like his.
Wheel rim base on the floor,easy to roll it out of the way when not in use.Pipe stem with a mounting plate so all the grinding is done standing up at eye level.Bolts are welded to the stem to hang chains on.
Yes once I get it and set it up I will post pics.
Yes all PPE will be used :p:p:p:p
All input will be enjoyed!!!
ENJOY
Andrew

[digger]

ive only had petrol chainsaws....

with them you sharpen the chain not the whole chainsaw.... obviously electric chainsaws are different?? :)

(no I still use a file, sorry I couldnt resist! :) )

[rick130]

Andy, I've never used a cheap grinder ([edit] any grinder :D) but those who's advice I value reckon don't bother, particularly after you've used a decent one ;)

I can also advise not to get a Maxx grinder, my mate Matt had one and eventually ebayed it, it wouldn't hold consistent angles.
He bought a Speed Sharp instead (Tecomec/Precision Tooling, the manufacturer of the Oregon ones) and loves it.
His business is chain sharpening, accessories, tools and tree felling.

Stick with the Tecomec/Precision Tooling/(Speed Sharp, Jolly, etc)/Oregon ones.
You pay for them but all the fella's I talk to reckon this is one time it pays to fork out the $ for a decent one.

I can give you Matt's phone # or email and you can have a talk to him, he's bloody good on his prices too, he freights stuff to me from South Oz. ;)

[chris_mack]

I use a file. Takes me a bit longer than perhaps a leccy sharpener would, but does a far better job IMO.

[rick130]

I use a file. Takes me a bit longer than perhaps a leccy sharpener would, but does a far better job IMO.

A well setup grinder with a well shaped wheel (or better still an ABN/CBN wheel but they are $$) and someone with a light hand does a good job and if you have a lot of chains to sharpen or have one that's been rocked or even just been cutting abrasive stuff I can see the advantage in having a grinder around.

[BMKal]

I've got an oregon electric sharpener in the shed. Never use it.

Found that when I did use it years ago, could never really get a consistent angle and the saw always cut in a curve. Also, chains never seemed to last as long - probably as a result of using it more than would normally have been necessary in order to correct my stuff-ups and me being heavy handed. ;)

These days, it's always just a file and the bench vice for me.

Which reminds me - I'd better get it out this afternoon. There's a pile of stuff up the back that needs cutting and I've been putting it off. But wet weather is forecast for here for most of the week, so if I don't do it today .................

[banjo]

ive only had petrol chainsaws....

with them you sharpen the chain not the whole chainsaw.... obviously electric chainsaws are different?? :)

(no I still use a file, sorry I couldnt resist! :) )


:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling::TakeABow::TakeABow:

[fatcat]

hi i got a cheap ebay one as well still learning how to use it i have found that the chain does not stay sharp for long. have a look on u tube few vids on how to do it but if anyone has any tips that would be great.

[Fluids]

BMKal ... if it's not cutting straight, your bar rails need re-levelling ... it's not the chains fault !

Andy, get the manufacturers specified angles for the chain and be particular in setting up the machine first ... should only have to kiss the cutters to get an edge back ... I flip a new chain on as soon as the one in use looses it's edge ... most folks keep going, and you round the leading edge (top) of the cutter down, requiring more cutter ground off to get the right angle .... good way to go through chains.

... and, chip away at the cutter in lots of little up/down strokes, don't just sink the wheel into the chain in one fell swoop ... you'll soften the cutter and it won't hold its edge ... it'll turn blue, and it's rooted! ... some cheaper chains I've had in for sharpening blue way too easily ... crap chinese chain!

[rick130]

BMKal ... if it's not cutting straight, your bar rails need re-levelling ... it's not the chains fault !

Andy, get the manufacturers specified angles for the chain and be particular in setting up the machine first ... should only have to kiss the cutters to get an edge back ... I flip a new chain on as soon as the one in use looses it's edge ... most folks keep going, and you round the leading edge (top) of the cutter down, requiring more cutter ground off to get the right angle .... good way to go through chains.

... and, chip away at the cutter in lots of little up/down strokes, don't just sink the wheel into the chain in one fell swoop ... you'll soften the cutter and it won't hold its edge ... it'll turn blue, and it's rooted! ... some cheaper chains I've had in for sharpening blue way too easily ... crap chinese chain!

Good advise as usual :D

[rick130]

... I flip a new chain on as soon as the one in use looses it's edge ...



Multiple loops when going cutting help, eh ;)
I've got that many loops in so many lengths from chipper through to full chisel I think I've lost count. Two different gauges too, but that'll be sorted out slowly.

One of the pro firewood cutters around here uses one saw (Shinny 757 I think) one chain and one bar :eek:

I'm damned if I know how he does it. I couldn't be arsed sharpening as i go (says he that did it three times yesterday...)
The saw has seen better days too, my mate who runs the local saw/small engine shop has had to patch it quite a few times, i think there's more weld on the muffler now than original steel. :lol2:

[Tombie]

I have a lovely little Dremel attachment that does a great job.

[Fluids]

Yeah Tombie, I had a rep in a couple of months ago with what looked like a Dremel chainsaw sharpener, but it was cordless/rechargeable like a cordless screwdriver, with variable speed ... neat bit of kit, almost bought one ... but I didn't really need it so passed.

Kev..

[Fluids]

Multiple loops when going cutting help, eh ;)

Definitley !

... you get more life out of a chain this way as it requires much less sharpening ... if you don't flog it to death.

I had a small Jonsered saw in a while ago, and all the antivibe springs were bent (???), the power head sat croocked in the chassis ... after quizzing the guy out about it ... the guy had been leaning into it really hard to get it to cut ... because it had a blunt chain! ??? :(

... some people ! :o

The other one I get a bit of, is folks who hand sharpen the chain (stupid bloody cutter angles btw) and ask for a sharpen as the chain won't cut any longer .... chain's sharp enough but the rakers/depth guages have never been lowered :p

Kev..

[LandyAndy]

Cheers for the replys people.
I can sharpen a chain no problems,Ive seen the guys try to use the sharpener at work and destroy chain after chain!!!!!
I wanted one of these mainly for the big chains I have,there are a LOT of teeth on a 4 foot bar!!!!
I can get a chain sharper and cutting true than most can with a gig or sharpener freehand.When out cutting wood soon as it dulls I give it a qick wipe with a chainsaw file alone,no guide.Can usually fill the trailer(was a 6x8 tandem,2t of wood) on 1 fillup and no sharpen.;););).
Andrew

[big guy]

Cheers for the replys people.
I can sharpen a chain no problems,Ive seen the guys try to use the sharpener at work and destroy chain after chain!!!!!
I wanted one of these mainly for the big chains I have,there are a LOT of teeth on a 4 foot bar!!!!
I can get a chain sharper and cutting true than most can with a gig or sharpener freehand.When out cutting wood soon as it dulls I give it a qick wipe with a chainsaw file alone,no guide.Can usually fill the trailer(was a 6x8 tandem,2t of wood) on 1 fillup and no sharpen.;););).
Andrew

Andrew
I got rid of my chainsaws as I move from the hills and still have my Stihl sharpening tool.
Runs off 12V battery, great for field charging.
Its yours for the cost of postage if you want it.:D

[rick130]

[snip]

The other one I get a bit of, is folks who hand sharpen the chain (stupid bloody cutter angles btw) and ask for a sharpen as the chain won't cut any longer .... chain's sharp enough but the rakers/depth guages have never been lowered :p

Kev..

Well, it least that's safer than the blokes that grind the rakers right down or right off 'cause it's better' :eek:

One of my mates is a fencing contractor, has been for twenty odd years and he just did his rakers by eye. (uses an Oregon guide for the top plate angle though)
All he ever did was guess it and try to take them down by even strokes. Last chain I looked at of his wasn't pretty in that department. :(

I gave him an Oregon 25 thou depth gauge tool but tried to explain that as the cutter gets filed back the raker height has to drop proportionately to maintain the cutter angle in the timber and therefore you'll maintain cutting speed.
He's a great bloke but the poor buggars eyes started to glaze.....

[trobbo]

I have a cheap electric sharpener and never use it as I cant get a good result with it. But I have used it to deburred a chisel with satisfactory results.

I usually work on the ratios of
1 tank of fuel = 1 sharpening of chain which I do by hand.
2 chain hand sharpenings = 1 pro sharpen.

Hopefully that way my misdemeanours sharpening the chain wont be too evident giving the pro's the opportunity to laugh at my work. :(

[rovercare]

Got one, I'm far to impatient for hand filing, the cheapy works well, in that it sharpens the chain for a good cut, but it does wear the chain faster and its only accurate when you work out where the "flex" in the grinder head is, none the less, I still prefer it, its quick easy and if I have to buy a new chain or 2 in 3 years instead of 5, so be it:p

I used to have all my chains done by the saw doctor when I worked at the wood mill, then they got rid of him:( now that was the go, raker's adjusted correctly, like a brand new chain everytime

[incisor]

i was doing my little 16 inch chains by hand but i just got myself an as new used husky 55 with 18 inch bar and so have to update all my gear to suit the .325 chain used on it. 3/16th i think instead of 5/32.

when i win lotto i will be getting a good quality grinder and half a dozen chains :p

[LandyAndy]

Dave
Chain is relatively cheap.You shouldnt be paying much more than $40 for a quality Oregon chain for that.
A full chisel chain(which I use) cuts faster but bluntens quicker,is harder to maintain.
A semi chisel chain doesnt cut as fast,but will handle a bit more abuse (ie dipping in the dirt) blunting slower and easier to maintain the correct cutting edge.
Andrew

[DeeJay]

I was tutored by an old Tasmanian ex pro woodcutter for the 2 years I had at McCulloch.
He had an odd saying.
"Never let your chain get blunt & you will never have to sharpen it"
What he meant is a file stroke whenever you feel the performance drop off will save quite a bit of filing to make up for the damage cutting with a dull blade will do.
He was spot on..
If you put the chains on the bench sharpener about half way through their life, & do the rakers you could take them back till they begin to break off - with a second raker filing.

[rick130]

For those of you that don't like filing, imagine the work that's gone into a chain like this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

The chain is taken apart right down to it's individual components, the cutter thinned, (some use a surface grinder and remove the hard chrome too, you can get a keener edge) the cutters are re-shaped, (rear clipped/bevelled, top plate thinned for a narrower kerf, raker thinned and narrowed, etc) filed and reassembled, the rivets ground down and finished filed with either a double bevelled or 6 corner triangle file (called square filing)

It's a full on race chain designed for speed events, usually only three cuts on a log.
It's modified like this for much less drag and much, much better chip clearance compared to a normal off the roll working chain and no, it's not mine, but I do have a few double bevelled files to have a crack at making some quicker chain.....if I ever find some timber soft enough to warrant it :D

[abaddonxi]

For those of you that don't like filing, imagine the work that's gone into a chain like this

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=27852&stc=1&d=1281952851

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=27853&stc=1&d=1281952901

The chain is taken apart right down to it's individual components, the cutter thinned, (some use a surface grinder and remove the hard chrome too, you can get a keener edge) the cutters are re-shaped, (rear clipped/bevelled, top plate thinned for a narrower kerf, raker thinned and narrowed, etc) filed and reassembled, the rivets ground down and finished filed with either a double bevelled or 6 corner triangle file (called square filing)

It's a full on race chain designed for speed events, usually only three cuts on a log.
It's modified like this for much less drag and much, much better chip clearance compared to a normal off the roll working chain and no, it's not mine, but I do have a few double bevelled files to have a crack at making some quicker chain.....if I ever find some timber soft enough to warrant it :D

And it's transparent!

[LandyAndy]

The cheap chinese sharpener turned up during the week.
I made a stand to mount it on.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/546.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/547.jpg

Did the first chain,a spare for the Dolmar,including taking the rakers down.Seemed to do a very good job.
Took the chain off the Dolmar wich needed a good sharpen.Took the rakers down first as the sharpener was set up for it.I did the first side of the cutters and the tensioner that holds the teeth stripped the thread.NOT HAPPY.
I did sharpen the other side of the chain but dont think it will cut true as the cutter could move slightly whilst sharpening.
Left the thing in discust.Just been down to fix it.It seems there was a piece of extremely hard debris in the alloy tightening handle.So hard it even stripped the thread of a stainless bolt in the same way.Wasnt able to remove it,so I improvised by welding a bolt and using a thick washer.All fixed and the repair is all hidden :cool::cool::cool::cool:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/548.jpg
Will see how the chains cut next weekend after I get my D2 back!!!!
Andrew

[Fluids]

Good news ... :) bad news ... :(

... a question or two if I may Andy ?

Why did you lower the depth guages BEFORE you sharpened the cutters ?? ... depth guages should be .030" below the leading edge of the cutter .... that can't be set until after you've sharpened the cutter first :eek:

Does the grinder have a fore/aft adjustment on the chain vise ... from the picture, it appears not ... so you can't get a proper 10deg filing angle to the cutter that most 3/8" chisel/semi chisel chains require ... ?

Kev..

[LandyAndy]

You are correct Kev,no 10 percent adjustment!!! Expected that buying the "oregon proffesional style"
NOT HAPPY!!!!
Look close at the chemi pen words.
www.cheapchinesecrap.com (http://www.cheapchinesecrap.com)
Andrew

[rick130]

I wonder what happened to my chain pics :confused:

strange......

[incisor]

they show up on tapatalk. or did last night...

[abaddonxi]

they show up on tapatalk. or did last night...

Apple stole 'em.

Damn you Mac!:twisted:

:D