Help please

[Scallops]

I'm fitting a new water pump (and thermostat) this weekend - spent this afternoon trying to get the shot pump out - and all by myself, I'm nearly there! :thumbsup:

What I've done so far....

1) Slacken dynamo mounting bolts and rotated dynamo inwards ( to get the fan belt off),
2) removed the upper radiator hoses
3) removed the thermostat housing from cylinder head complete with outlet pipe, inlet elbow and joint washer
4) removed the fan blade

So - all I need to do now is remove the fan pulley then unbolt the actual pump.

My question is this - once the fan blades are off - does the fan pulley just pull off too? I can't see any bolts to undo - the workshop manual doesn't show any either - but I tried pulling it forward and it wouldn't budge.

Do I need to pull harder or is there something I'm missing? :angel:

[dmdigital]

Good to see the workshop manual instructions haven't improved in detail in 54 years ;)

[Scallops]

:D I'm borrowing Numpty's real workshop manual - it's a heap better than the book I have. But yeah - to dumbarses like me - there could be a little more detail. :)

But answering my own question - I think I might just need to pull harder - the manual lists the bolts I took out of the fan blade (parts 46 and 47) as being, "Fixings for fan blade and pulley" - so I guess I'll just try again tomorrow.

[Scallops]

But please - any experts please confirm I just need to pull harder! :blink:

[clean32]

not a S1 type. but normaly yes

is there enough room to pull the pump out with the radiator in ?

[Scallops]

not a S1 type. but normaly yes

is there enough room to pull the pump out with the radiator in ?

Yep - even with the shroud still on.

[clean32]

Yep - even with the shroud still on.

ok then just hit it with a hammer

[Timj]

Hi Dan,

Usually things like that just require a little more persuasion :). Sometimes two screwdrivers, one from each side levering it off can help. Or you might need a puller which is three arms that hook under the pulley and a bolt that tightens up against the centre and pulls it off. If you don't have one they are pretty cheap from autobarn, supercheap or repco or you could come and borrow one if you like.

Tim.

[back_in]

Scallops
using your largest screw drivers
2 would be good
slowly work around between the housing and the block, using them as a lever
very gentle taping with a copper hammer will help to brake 50 odd years of rust
a little heat around the edge of the housing may also help
gently gently catchy monkey
it will come away, no need to remove radiator and cowling
cheers
Ian

[Landy Smurf]

i agree 2 screwdrivers

[scarry]

Haven't seen the S1,or the manual,but the pully is usually pressed on the shaft.I presume the new pump does not have the pully on it?
Best then would be to unbolt the pump & then use pullers to remove pully.It will then have to be carefully pressed onto the new shaft,taking note of how far it went on the old pump before it is removed.

I have got a full set of pullers if you need them,& a brother with the genuine workshop manual for the '56 S1.PM me if you need either.

Good luck

[Blknight.aus]

with the pump removed I usually just support the pulley on 2 decent tyre levers sitting on blocks of wood then hit the nose with a rubber mallet.

spray lube and a little heat help as well.

[clean32]

OOHHII you got this thing done yet? its been 5 hours

[Scallops]

Fellas - thanks for the tips - the old screwdriver each side got the fan pulley off. :BigThumb:

Now to the rest of it - after 1.5 days of solid effort - I still haven't managed to get this finished! :D

But I'm almost there (I think) - and it wasn't entirely my fault that progress has ground to a halt. I have refitted the new pump, and was trying to replace the fan assembly - but the new pump has 6mm metric threads in the 4 holes on the water pump end that go into the fan pullet assembly. :mad:

So I need to get 4 metric bolts of the same length. Totally ****ed me off - they said it was a genuine part. :mad:

But worse - it meant I didn't finish and retain the tag of dope mechanic 2010.

Still - at least the new pump is fitted - so once the fan is fitted, I have the thermostat to put in the housing, refit the fan belt, readjust the dynamo - and I'll be done.

Thanks for the earlier heads up everyone - I can always rely on you guys.

[The ho har's]

Great to see it sorted:D...ready for the BIG run on Saturday;):D

Mrs hh:angel:

[chazza]

... but the new pump has 6mm metric threads in the 4 holes on the water pump end that go into the fan pullet assembly. :mad:

So I need to get 4 metric bolts of the same length. Totally ****ed me off - they said it was a genuine part. :mad:


The same thing happened to me :mad: so I drilled them to the correct tapping size and put a BSF thread in the holes. The fasteners they expected me to use were too small a diameter anyway, compared to the old ones and the hole sizes in the pulley and fan, so it is worth checking them before you press on, otherwise the fan and pulley will rattle about.

It didn't end there, however, because the two holes in the flange face where the steel inlet pipe connects, were also the wrong thread! :mad: I had to use whatever thread they were as they were too large to re-tap.

The outside of the casting had to be ground down a bit as well so that it didn't foul the timing case. Why would anyone go to the trouble of making a pump and supply it with three easily rectifiable (in the factory) manufacturing faults? :mad:

I remember thinking at the time - thank God I am not stranded on the Nullabor waiting for a new pump and then have this un-fittable monstrosity turn up!

[russellrovers]

The same thing happened to me :mad: so I drilled them to the correct tapping size and put a BSF thread in the holes. The fasteners they expected me to use were too small a diameter anyway, compared to the old ones and the hole sizes in the pulley and fan, so it is worth checking them before you press on, otherwise the fan and pulley will rattle about.

It didn't end there, however, because the two holes in the flange face where the steel inlet pipe connects, were also the wrong thread! :mad: I had to use whatever thread they were as they were too large to re-tap.

The outside of the casting had to be ground down a bit as well so that it didn't foul the timing case. Why would anyone go to the trouble of making a pump and supply it with three easily rectifiable (in the factory) manufacturing faults? :mad:

I remember thinking at the time - thank God I am not stranded on the Nullabor waiting for a new pump and then have this un-fittable monstrosity turn up! hi thats why a fully recondition orignal pump is the way to go new pumps leave a lot to be desired jim

[Scallops]

The same thing happened to me :mad: so I drilled them to the correct tapping size and put a BSF thread in the holes. The fasteners they expected me to use were too small a diameter anyway, compared to the old ones and the hole sizes in the pulley and fan, so it is worth checking them before you press on, otherwise the fan and pulley will rattle about.

It didn't end there, however, because the two holes in the flange face where the steel inlet pipe connects, were also the wrong thread! :mad: I had to use whatever thread they were as they were too large to re-tap.

The outside of the casting had to be ground down a bit as well so that it didn't foul the timing case. Why would anyone go to the trouble of making a pump and supply it with three easily rectifiable (in the factory) manufacturing faults? :mad:

I remember thinking at the time - thank God I am not stranded on the Nullabor waiting for a new pump and then have this un-fittable monstrosity turn up!

Yeah - I had to file the base on my pump too - same issue - but the inlet pipe threads are right on mine, (I've refitted the inlet pipe) so I guess that's one win.

[series1buff]

Hmm

You didn't mention if you have a alloy or cast iron housing . I've rebuilt two of the alloy type , it worked out very well. Only cost about $30 in parts and a few hours stuffing around . Now I have a lathe making the seal adapter sleeve is a breeze .

I posted some pics on this forum , maybe do a search for it ?

MIKE

[series1buff]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

[Scallops]

My old pump was, of course, cast iron - as is the replacement. The seller (Alex - S1 shop) has offered to replace the pump with one with 100% BSF threads - so hats off - but I've got my 6mm bolts and there is no way in hell I'm going to take it off now!

Latest saga for me - I inspected the inside of the fan belt - it was totally shot - almost worn right through - so I have a new one coming.

But getting it off was another mission - cos the cowling on my radiator is not original and there was only 2mm gap between it and the crankcase. Not anymore! Killer came over with some tinsnips! Thanks mate - you're a champ.:clap2:

[Scallops]

Reckon I'm breaking new ground here - 5 days in and I'm still replacing my water pump! :D

Tonight's effort saw the fan and fan pulley (spacer etc) replaced - used the 6mm 8.8 bolts and there is no play.

Tomorrow I'll do the thermostat housing...I know this is all chicken feed for you blokes but for me I'm doing Brain surgery - car maintenance equalled putting air in the tyres and fuel in the tank before Matilda came along.

It's good to be able to have a go and actually get somewhere - and I thank all those here who have helped me out with answers and tips along the way - thank you all. :)