just got a L series freeloader

[woko]

purchased a 2000 L series Freelander last week. 160K on it. Did the timing belts today. tell you what the man that thought it was a good idea to put the crank locking pin there wants shooting.:mad:

[101RRS]

When I did my first timing belt I couldn't find it so did a risk assesment of the crank actually moving - not likely but still marked it in case it did - it never did and I will have to do it again in a few weeks.

I have to replace the first piece of exhaust pipe at the same time so I might even stand a chance of finding it this time.

The last time I did the belts I only did them and not the tensioners/pullies etc. I think I will do them this time. What do you think? I will also do the serpentine belt as well - any additional bits that should be done as well as the belt?

Also did you move the engine to the passenger side of the engine as the book suggests? When I did mine I thought that was too much hard work so just undid the drivers side engine mounts and jacked the drivers side up when doing the top and lowered it when doing the bottom - was OK but piggy fingers had trouble getting into the available space. I also ground down a small socket set to get inthere as well.

I have been putting the job off but it is now 2,000km overdue so I need to get in and do it.

Cheers

Garry

[woko]

The timing pin hole is between the IRD and the block near the crank sensor. its only small. the pin is about 1/4" diameter. You cant get you hands in there, has to be fitted with a magnet and a small pry bar as a screw driver will need a bend in it. It would be easy with no IRD.

I replaced everything 2 belts 2 tensioners and a idler. My thinking is its done 160k and they have spun around many times and a lot cheaper than a head if the belt comes off. It wasn't that expensive either $415 for all belts, all tensioners/idlers, full filter kit, sump gasket and clutch slave cylinder bracket.

No didnt move engine. Jacked it up and down to get to bolts and uses a 1/4 sockets. Im lazy, so I took the tricky option. It took me about 2 hours to fit the front belt and change the tensioner and idler.

[101RRS]

I assume you did the injection pump belt as well?

At 160,000km you are also at the critical distance for VCU failure. With the original IRD you have a ticking time bomb that will require checking very often. Mine failed back in early 2006 taking out the IRD (rear drive pinion unmeshed due to bearing failure but thankfully was able to drive it OK in 2wd until I could assemble parts for repair. I put in a matched IRD/VCU out of a low km TD4. Overall the final drive is a bit higher than original so I cruise at lower revs but 1st is a bit higher when off road.

[Ausfree]

I assume you did the injection pump belt as well?

At 160,000km you are also at the critical distance for VCU failure. With the original IRD you have a ticking time bomb that will require checking very often. Mine failed back in early 2006 taking out the IRD (rear drive pinion unmeshed due to bearing failure but thankfully was able to drive it OK in 2wd until I could assemble parts for repair. I put in a matched IRD/VCU out of a low km TD4. Overall the final drive is a bit higher than original so I cruise at lower revs but 1st is a bit higher when off road.
Garry, would that also apply to a 2001 FL1? My understanding is that certain changes were made in early 2001 and the later models are not as prone to this problem!!!!

[101RRS]

That is my understanding - actually from the first update in 2000. I would however be doing a VCU check as part of my service program. In my case - every 5000km and when I suspect something - has tested OK on every occasion.

Garry

[woko]

I assume you did the injection pump belt as well?

At 160,000km you are also at the critical distance for VCU failure. With the original IRD you have a ticking time bomb that will require checking very often. Mine failed back in early 2006 taking out the IRD (rear drive pinion unmeshed due to bearing failure but thankfully was able to drive it OK in 2wd until I could assemble parts for repair. I put in a matched IRD/VCU out of a low km TD4. Overall the final drive is a bit higher than original so I cruise at lower revs but 1st is a bit higher when off road.

Yes did the injector pump belt aswell.
The IRD in it is the updated version, so it has had 1 at some stage. I checked the VCU using the RRC VCU method and it passes.

[woko]

Garry, would that also apply to a 2001 FL1? My understanding is that certain changes were made in early 2001 and the later models are not as prone to this problem!!!!
Your Freelander will have the updated IRD, The update was fitted to all V6/TD4. VCU still needs checking as they can still fail and do eventually wear out.

[101RRS]

Other than the VCU/IRD issue my Freelander was been a top car that has been incredibly reliable - it has now done 270,000km. The interior is almost as new,no squeaks or rattles. The heater dumps a little coolant once every 6 months but has done so for the past 6 years so I am not going to fix it. Likewise the front right CV clicks but it has done so for the whole 6 years I have had it (110,000km) and has not got any worse so again will leave it until it needs work (I have had a spare waiting to go in for 4 years).

It was a shame that the petrol models and the early IRD issue damaged the reputation of the car so much because the diesels were so much more reliable than other landie products of the time - my Freelander was certainly far more reliable than the V8 disco that I also drove.

Garry

[woko]

Other than the VCU/IRD issue my Freelander was been a top car that has been incredibly reliable - it has now done 270,000km. The interior is almost as new,no squeaks or rattles. The heater dumps a little coolant once every 6 months but has done so for the past 6 years so I am not going to fix it. Likewise the front right CV clicks but it has done so for the whole 6 years I have had it (110,000km) and has not got any worse so again will leave it until it needs work (I have had a spare waiting to go in for 4 years).

It was a shame that the petrol models and the early IRD issue damaged the reputation of the car so much because the diesels were so much more reliable than other landie products of the time - my Freelander was certainly far more reliable than the V8 disco that I also drove.

Garry

I know thats why I bought one. After working in a dealership for almost 10 years all ive done to a L series besides all the bulletins and IRD's is 1 head due to broken timing belt, 2 turbos, injector pump and a few sets on glow plug. They are a great engine, people say the TD4 is more reliable but Ive done less work on a L series.

[101RRS]

The timing pin hole is between the IRD and the block near the crank sensor. its only small. the pin is about 1/4" diameter. You cant get you hands in there, has to be fitted with a magnet and a small pry bar as a screw driver will need a bend in it. It would be easy with no IRD.


I am finally doing the belt change job. As indicated last time I did it I didn't put the crank pin in bit this time I thought I would do so. I know where the hole is (just under the starter) but even with a mirror and light I cannot see it.

So where did you go in to get your magnet and pin in. There does not seem to room from underneath, too many ancillaries from the top so was thinking horizontally from the drivers side at the back of the engine.

On reflection it looks like it is too hard so I might do what I did last time is not put it in and mark everything so if it does move I will know - with the compression of the engine it is unlikely to move. I bet no service centre puts in in - just too much hassle.

I will put the camshaft and injection pump pins in as they are easy.

Garry

[woko]

I am finally doing the belt change job. As indicated last time I did it I didn't put the crank pin in bit this time I thought I would do so. I know where the hole is (just under the starter) but even with a mirror and light I cannot see it.

So where did you go in to get your magnet and pin in. There does not seem to room from underneath, too many ancillaries from the top so was thinking horizontally from the drivers side at the back of the engine.

On reflection it looks like it is too hard so I might do what I did last time is not put it in and mark everything so if it does move I will know - with the compression of the engine it is unlikely to move. I bet no service centre puts in in - just too much hassle.

I will put the camshaft and injection pump pins in as they are easy.

Garry

I get them from underneath. I get it from the the gap between the IRD and the engine block. you need a magnet and a screwdriver as there is not enough room for your hands.
Everyone I have seen done the pins were fitted, but in saying that if its marked it will do the same job.

[101RRS]

Thanks - I was afraid you were going to say that. Dealers obviously employ midgets to do this.

[Tony.Beardsley]

Asolutely stupid!!! I have the exhaust manifold off, all the turbo gear, auxil's, adn still I can't find the fricken flywheel locking pin hole. unreal.....
Does anyone have a picture, or any basic instructions PLEASE.... Im losing the plot with this motor!!!!!!!!

[101RRS]

Asolutely stupid!!! I have the exhaust manifold off, all the turbo gear, auxil's, adn still I can't find the fricken flywheel locking pin hole. unreal.....
Does anyone have a picture, or any basic instructions PLEASE.... Im losing the plot with this motor!!!!!!!!

Can't help with the hole - as I said before I know where it is but have never actually been able to see it. It is displayed in the Rave manual and the Haynes manual but I have no way of posting up pics from them.

What do you need to do to your engine - sounds like you are getting ready to pull the head off.

Garry

[woko]

37992
This is the page out of Rave. This picture of the engine doesn't have the IRD fitted. You can not get it from the top, so removing the intakes will not help, It has to be fitted from underneath, If you can't find it with this picture remove the IRD, as said previously it is between the IRD and the block. This engine was designed to go into a Rover car, making it a 4WD was a after thought.