Tune up Series I: Set timing with timing light? Oil filter type?

[spudboy]

Am going to do a few tune up things to my 2L 1955 Series I.

I've looked through the manual, but can only find a section on setting the points/timing using an on/off globe process. Can the timing be set with a strobe timing light?

Also - the manual details the process to change the oil filter, but doesn't specify anything about the filter. Is it a 'cartridge' type filter, or something like the fine metal mesh like VW used as an oil filter in the early Bugs. Or to put it another way, do I need to go and buy a filter or is it something 'cleanable' which you then put back in?

Ta
David

[mildred]

Am going to do a few tune up things to my 2L 1955 Series I.

I've looked through the manual, but can only find a section on setting the points/timing using an on/off globe process. Can the timing be set with a strobe timing light?

Also - the manual details the process to change the oil filter, but doesn't specify anything about the filter. Is it a 'cartridge' type filter, or something like the fine metal mesh like VW used as an oil filter in the early Bugs. Or to put it another way, do I need to go and buy a filter or is it something 'cleanable' which you then put back in?

Ta
David

there are no timing marks on the damper wheel at the front of the motor.
you have to carefully rotate the engine to top dead centre via the hatch on the flywheel casting and when you think that tdc is correct and the timing marks, according to the manual are all right, then use the timing bulb method to set the timing.
land rovers of series one type are very forgiving and an few degrees one way or the other are superfluous , in my opinion.......

as for filters, cannister types were the norm and virtually unobtainable today, I have some but for me, I recommend just to change the oil at least 2 times a year and a pre flush before changaing the oil.
Your treasurer will last for many years to come......

[B.S.F.]

Please forgive my ignorance,but what is a pre flush?

[mildred]

Please forgive my ignorance,but what is a pre flush?
its a solution that you add to the oil prior to draining when it is time to refill with new fresh oil.
Many manufactures make it, Nulon, and many others.
Its an additive type thing that is added to the oil when hot, just before you drain the oil to change it.
I use it on al my vehicles and it keeps them i good condition.
It basicly removes all the sludge from the sump with a mild detergent and flushes it out when the oil is changed.
You could use it in the engine if only doing a 20 min journey or idling for 20 mins then drain the oil and refill and change the filter.
Phew.....
Peter

[Hartley]

I have never been happy with the results of the timing bulb method, no matter how carefully I did the setting process. I find road test then adjust, then road test etc to work well. I just do it in 1st gear around the paddock and if the engine pulls strongly with near idle speed I am happy. I dont think there is much danger of damage from over advance using hi octane fuel in these low compession engines. Maybe someone can refute this? Perhaps someone has tried marking the flywheel or front pulley then using a timing light. Their expierences would be interesting.

[numpty]

My '55 S1 has a full flow filter (spread bore 2l) and the cartridge filters for this are readily available.....same as 6 cylinder Rover.

[mildred]

I have never been happy with the results of the timing bulb method, no matter how carefully I did the setting process. I find road test then adjust, then road test etc to work well. I just do it in 1st gear around the paddock and if the engine pulls strongly with near idle speed I am happy. I dont think there is much danger of damage from over advance using hi octane fuel in these low compression engines. Maybe someone can refute this? Perhaps someone has tried marking the flywheel or front pulley then using a timing light. Their experiences would be interesting.

I seriously considered that method many years ago. It all seemed very difficult to accurately mark the front pulley in any way if it was still attached to the vehicle. I did not want to remove it and tackle the exercise.....so this is what I did and it works.
I hope that i am not making waves with this method because many like to stick to tradition methods, no matter what! that is fine by me!
The method was explained to me by an old and very expericenced mechanic and this is what I did.
Its very simple really:
Drill the manifold and tap a suitable stub into it to take a VACUUM hose rubber pipe.
Attach the pipe and run the engine to obtain the highest reading on the gauge.
This is of course after doing the static timing procedure as per book.
This allows for all the wear and slack in you precious cars engine and drive train, to be taken up.
The highest reading takes into account all the wear and the engine is therefore tuned to its optimum reading and performance.
I check mine all the time and it runs like a well oiled sewing machine.
hope this is of some help and try it, without any fear of doing something wrong or damaging to your vehicle... :D
This is a very old, tested and tried method of dealing with, old worn engines, tuning them to perfection, taking into regard the wear and tear in them. :thumbsup:

[groucho]

The Vacuum guage method is realy the best way to do it...

[mildred]

The Vacuum gauge method is really the best way to do it...
so is that how you do IT ?;)

[groucho]

so is that how you do IT ?;)

Won't go there:p

[groucho]

Tuning with a good vacuum guage can tell you a lot
Leaking valves / guides, low compression, plug gap. weak or broken valve springs ect compensates for wear in the distributor.......

[spudboy]

So, if I attach a vacuum gauge, and then loosen the distributor clamp, and just rotate until I get the highest vacuum reading? Is that the go?

Sounds pretty easy!

I have tried the static method and I am still getting a lot of backfiring....

[mildred]

Tuning with a good vacuum guage can tell you a lot
Leaking valves / guides, low compression, plug gap. weak or broken valve springs ect compensates for wear in the distributor.......

nods

have a illustrated guide to all the uses of a vacuum gauge
if I find it I will post it up
cheers;)

[mildred]

So, if I attach a vacuum gauge, and then loosen the distributor clamp, and just rotate until I get the highest vacuum reading? Is that the go?

Sounds pretty easy!

I have tried the static method and I am still getting a lot of backfiring....

spud,
that is all you have to do......

[Jock The Rock]

Also - the manual details the process to change the oil filter, but doesn't specify anything about the filter. Is it a 'cartridge' type filter, or something like the fine metal mesh like VW used as an oil filter in the early Bugs. Or to put it another way, do I need to go and buy a filter or is it something 'cleanable' which you then put back in?

Ta
David

Hey mate check this out

series 1 landrover filter, Cars, Bikes, Boats items at low prices on eBay.com.au (http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=series+1+landrover+filter&_sacat=See-All-Categories)

[series1buff]

I have tried the static method and I am still getting a lot of backfiring....


It could be your vacuum advance isn't functioning correctly .

I made up a little device for checking it. It's a wine bottle sucker, a thing for sucking air out of wine bottles before you seal the cork... i found it at a op shop. I made up a connector for it and connected it to the vacuum port on the distributor - take the dissy cap off and you can watch the contact plate swing around when you pull the plunger out on the sucker..

Sometimes the rubber diaphram inside the round disc on the side of the dissy has become perished or holed and it won't flex in-out as it should under vacuum.

MIKE

[spudboy]

Hi Mike - it is worse than not working properly - it is not there! See attached photo.

I have looked on the inlet manifold for the place where a vacuum advance line would connect, but can see nothing obvious, and I have looked in the manual at the exploded carbie diagram, and can't see anything there either.

Any hints as to where the vacuum line attaches?

Thanks
David

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/29358d1285827911t-do-i-have-original-2l-my-1955-swb-seriesiengine-001.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/29358d1285827911-do-i-have-original-2l-my-1955-swb-seriesiengine-001.jpg)

[spudboy]

Hey mate check this out

series 1 landrover filter, Cars, Bikes, Boats items at low prices on eBay.com.au (http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=series+1+landrover+filter&_sacat=See-All-Categories)

Hi Jock - thanks for that link. Wish I had seen it yesterday, as I have just ordered one from the SeriesOne shop (from Victoria). Their price was $25, so more than twice the price of the eBay one :mad: Looks like I've been done over a bit there.....

[groucho]

Any hints as to where the vacuum line attaches?


The Vacuum pipe connects to the carby just inilne with the butterfly...

[groucho]

This manifold came off the well travelled 80" that went around Australia. It had a vacuum guage fitted in the cab. I would like to have the vacuum port sort of close to the centre of the manifold for better results. Must have worked ok i suppose. The Vacuum port on the solex is close to the butterfly and is just exposed at idle.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/1329.jpg

[groucho]

My vacuum guage, even dose fuel pump pressure





https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/1109.jpg

[mick88]

I recently purchased a 1971 Series 2A that has covered eighty thousand miles (approx 130,000 kays) and it has a Frantz By-Pass filter fitted. These type of filters take a toilet roll as the element. The owner who purchased the vehicle new had fitted the filter shortly after purchase. I pulled the engine down and I cannot believe how clean it is inside, it is spotless.
Cheers, Mick.

[groucho]

Those Franz filters are the ants pants. I had 2 three stackers on the Mack. The oil check showed that i could have probably changed the oil may be only twice a year. You got to have the right Franz filter, we used to use the toilet rolls, but you had to get the right type as they would swell in the pot and it would take hours to dig them out. The last Franz agent was Gannons in Camden when they went there was nobody local if at all selling the franz filtres so it took them off.....

[groucho]

The vac adv port on the solex (under the big brass nut)




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/1327.jpg

[spudboy]

Thanks groucho - your're a champion.

I'll go and see if I can locate it on mine.

BTW - I have a vacuum/fuel pressure gauge identical to the one shown on the previous page (I think it was yours).

[spudboy]

OK - I have found the vacuum line port on the carbie - mine is plugged with a very nice brass grub screw. Wonder why the distributor is not hooked up to it......

[groucho]

OK - I have found the vacuum line port on the carbie - mine is plugged with a very nice brass grub screw. Wonder why the distributor is not hooked up to it......

The vacuum tubes often break from not clamped securley or get kinked
If it came off a farm it would probably classed as a non essential itm.....

[spudboy]

It came off a farm.....:p

[series1buff]

David

I used a plastic tube and soldered some connectors up to fit the carby and dissy . I don't have the original copper pipe and fittings, so I compromised and used a bit of plastic tube, it works fine . The plastic tube is just a push on fit , but lots of cars use on a push on fitting anyway.

The thread in the carby port is 6mm metric .
MIKE