What initial and preventative steps for new owner?

[glenhendry]

Hi Guys

As per the intro's forum, I am a new (first time) RR owner and I am trying to get some tips about must-do first jobs on a new Rangey (2000 HSE w LPG/Petrol).

I have read lots, but if you were to get a new Rangey with an uncertain history, what things would you do straight away? The EAS seems fine, but during the RWC, engine is coming out (today) to get oil leak fixed on some front seals near crank.

Check main computer connectors?
Spray penetrating oil on plugs?
Check seals on Eng Mgt module for water entry?

What else?

Many thanks for any input.

[Junosi]

First off - welcome :)

If your engine is coming out you might as well give the electrics a good going over. Check the fusebox/relay panel under the bonnet and give it a good inspection - checking for any signs of fried/frying relays. It's probably worth taking pretty much every electrical plug in the engine bay apart and checking for any corrosion - fixing as necessary (sandpaper and contact cleaner).

Overheating is probably the biggest killer of these engines - so check out all your cooling system components.

On the LPG side, might be worth changing the filters too if you're unsure of their age.

Other things I'd do straight away are new pollen filters, new oil filter and oil, new air filter (paper type, ditch any K&N type if it has one installed - MAF's hate them), gearbox oil and filter if unknown, check diff oil, check/replace plugs and possibly leads (good spark is vital for good lpg), check battery condition (weird things happen if your battery is dying - including immobilising your car, ask me how I know ...)

[PeterH]

Hi glenhendry, welcome to the forum and congrats on the new Rangie.
I got myself a 2001 HSE about 12 months ago aside from a couple of minor issues it has been an excellent vehicle.
The first thing I did was replace all the fluids and filters, that way you know exactly when it was done and what you used, including diff oils.
Keep good records of the work you do and you'll never be guessing when things were done.
Don't forget the auto fluid and filter, great guide here:
Range Rover Transmission Service Description (http://www.rangerovers.net/maintenance/transervice4.html)

As Junosi already said, the pollen filters are good to do, some owners and service places don't even know of thier existence, they can become very blocked and potentially cause other problems with hevac systems. Very easy to do, guide here:
Range Rover Pollen Filter Replacement (http://www.rangerovers.net/maintenance/pollenfilter.html)

While you are at it, the plennum filter will probably need doing too:
Intake plenum filter replacement (Range Rover 4.0/4.6/p38) (http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/hevac/plenumfilter/plenumfilter.html)

Depends on how far you want to go with it really, but it's good to know everything is as it should be in those departments.
Another thing you may want to consider is a diagnostic scan tool like the Faultmate.
I recently purchased a faultmate extreme, I recommend one very highly if you like to do your own work on the vehicle. You can scan for and read any fault codes that may be present, it will also point you in the right direction when trying to diagnose any problems you may have.
Definately a new set of plugs and possibly leads too.
That will keep you busy for awhile!
Good luck with it, regards, Pete.

[Grumbles]

The cooling system!!!!!!!! Rod [not simply flush] the radiator and also refurbish the cooling viscous fan hub.

You might also consider replacing the vacuum advance as well. It is probably due for this by now.

[DT-P38]

with a special emphasis on cooling (don't forget to check viscous fan coupling) and electrical tidy up/refreshes.

Also, visit hardrange.com.au and check out their P38 upgrades.

I would say an essential one to get straight away is their EAS Bypass system as its a great get out of jail for if any component of the system fails or breaks. Their prices on Faultmates are extremely competitive too...

There is a heap of other stuff in their catalogue to consider as well... a lot of it really desirable off roading upgrades...

Welcome to the forum too. If your not sure on anything, this is the best place to search or ask, bar none.

Hoo-roo, Dave

[PaulP38a]

...

Also, visit hardrange.com.au and check out their P38 upgrades.
...

I'll slip you a tenner later :D :wasntme:

[Scouse]

You might also consider replacing the vacuum advance as well. It is probably due for this by now.The what??? :confused::confused:

[Grumbles]

Oops -missed a word - sorry - - Vacuum Advance Unit. :D

[DT-P38]

I'll slip you a tenner later :D :wasntme:
Cool, you can take it off the bill for my lift kit!!!

BTW the cheque I was waiting for arrived last week so the ''Pretty Pig'' is now trembling in anticipation of being able to lift her skirts up and jump around with the Hard Rangie!

One negative though... the Mrs 100 series is not looking happy with losing the 33'' Mudzilla's... I may have to look for a different MT upgrade option to keep them both happy! Perhaps the cruiser would go further with 35's anyway? Oh ****, thats probably gonna hurt the piggy bank!

[glenhendry]

Can the Vacuum Advance Unit be repaired/overhauled, or is it easier to get it replaced? Although I know what it is and what it does, I see no mention of it in the workshop manual (unless I am searching incorrectly).

[Grumbles]

I would replace. They are not expensive. And be very careful that you don't lose that little srew which holds it in place.

And have a look here - lots of reading re this little unit. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/search.php'searchid=2067701

[wayneg]

Have I missed something here, There is no vacuum advance unit on a P38 as there is no Distributor.
One other easy upgrade is to extend the expansion tank overflow pipe down so it runs to the floor and not spray steam under the fusebox. While you are there make sure the pipe running from the top of the expansion tank to the rad is clear by blowing down it. Several members have added a low coolant level alarm which is sadly missing. As already stated the H/t leads are prone to failure and are a worthwhile change. Make sure you get the correct type with the correct fittings for the coil pack ends. These can be got from the UK pretty cheaply.

[Scouse]

Oops -missed a word - sorry - - Vacuum Advance Unit. :D


Can the Vacuum Advance Unit be repaired/overhauled, or is it easier to get it replaced? Although I know what it is and what it does, I see no mention of it in the workshop manual (unless I am searching incorrectly).The P38 Range Rover does not have a vacuum advance unit.

In fact, it doesn't even have a distributor !!

[PaulP38a]

The P38 Range Rover does not have a vacuum advance unit.

In fact, it doesn't even have a distributor !!

Maybe they are referring to the vacuum unit on the Cruise Control situated behind the EAS Box?

[Grumbles]

Oops x 2. Got my engines mixed up. Have zipped my yapper, put my typing fingers in a straight jacket and jumped back in my box.

[glenhendry]

Thanks guys - all good stuff.

I intend to go around the engine bay and inspect/clean/wiggle electrical connections carefully to try to ward off intermittent faults in the future.

After all my reading this is other parts of my plan, can you please ratify?

- Additional earth strap from battery to chassis and engine/alternator to chassis
- Fusebox electrical track and fuse inspection and bolster where required
- Silicone spray lube all moving parts/springs/etc

My final question is, is it OK to degrease the whole engine bay? Obviously I dont want to flood the fuse box, but is the engine bay otherwise a degrease-able/spray-able area?

Thanks!

[wayneg]

My final question is, is it OK to degrease the whole engine bay? Obviously I dont want to flood the fuse box, but is the engine bay otherwise a degrease-able/spray-able area?

Thanks!

On several occasions I have blasted the whole engine and bay with a pressure washer after a trip out into the bush. Maybe I have been lucky but have had no problems with starting afterwards or electrical gremlins. I have always sprayed WD40 or similar over the electrical connections and H/T leads so maybe that helped. Everything seems pretty waterproof but I would not get to to enthusiastic around the fuse box

[Aussie]

have read lots, but if you were to get a new Rangey with an uncertain history, what things would you do straight away?

Get a second job and talk to your Mrs about setting up a large overdraught, Those are the 2 things you should do 1st.

[cucinadio]

welcome mate......just remember all good intention on this forum come from people that are a breed of there own, they have a wealth of experience and advice (in my case more than any land rover spec around this area)...anything that goes to the shop will cost an arm and a leg (but money is not an issue, than your all good) don't get caught up in all crap that some chuck at each other as it only applies to them and if you get caught up in a moment of keyboard warrior'ism, than they will be sure to shot you down in one way from or an other....great forum for the good oil for your truck and many willing to share it with you ..enjoy, be careful tho...can be VA

cheers

[glenhendry]

Thanks for all your info. I have three more questions (with pics):

1) I have dual fuel, and I am still getting used to it. Lst night after driving around all day, I noticed a scary amount of black/dark smoke and soot coming out of the single exhaust when I blip the throttle. My friend thinks its a dual fuel residue/build-up. I have no idea. The previous owner normally used LPG and I have been using petrol on my first day - any ideas? It left a black smudge on the ground...

1a) Didnt 1999+ 4.6 models have dual pipes? Is a single pipe a common mod later?

2) The pic attached shows a white multiplug connector under the fusebox that is not connected. Any ideas what it is for?

3) The second pic shows a tube (looks like a vent or drain) that is behind the radiator overflow. It hook over and goes down behind the ABS. Is that normal or aftermarket. Its a hard poly tube, not soft like rubber.

Thanks agains folks, appreciate it.
Larger images at glenhendry.blogspot.com

[DT-P38]

Get a second job and talk to your Mrs about setting up a large overdraught, Those are the 2 things you should do 1st.

Disagree

[PaulP38a]

Be nice Dave... we all go through our ups and downs of LR/RR ownership ;)

Nothing so nice as when we are wheeling through the scrub leaving the lesser 4wd's stranded and then recovering them, or leaving a new model 4wd (SUV?) standing at the traffic lights. Nothing so heartbreaking as a simple maintenance item or fiddly electrical bit taking the baby out of action.

It's not just LR/RR's that are affected by gremlins.

We live, we learn, we conquer... and then do it again :p

Glen - in response to your questions:


seems to be a common thing for P38's to drop water/soot out of the exhaust, particularly in cooler months. Mine does it a lot in Canberra.
most/all Aus models have single pipes. Dual pipes are usually custom or import parts.
NFI what that white multiplug connector is. Will try to find it on mine and see if it connects to anything.
the tube behind your radiator overflow/expansion tank is probably the overflow pipe itself. A common "enhancement" is to extend this pipe down in to the wheel arch so it does not leak overflow under the fuse box.

Why does your engine bay look so clean? Go out and get it dirty! ;)

[glenhendry]

More good info thanks.

When I connected a hand held OBDII reader, I got a bunch of codes P0201-0208, P0304, P0102, P0134, P0154. I didnt know how old these were so I noted them down and cleared the fault codes, drove to work to determine which ones are current.

After the 15km drive, I now have 3: :D:
-- P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit low Input; Mass Air Flow Sensor Low Out of Range Fault
-- P0134 Ox Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1); Front HO2 sensor LH bank open circuit
-- P0154 Ox Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1); Front HO2 sensor RH bank open circuit

I am still getting black smoke on idle and acceleration (only on petrol - fine on LPG). Now while I can look these up, I am not sure if the fault is saying the MAF and O2 sensors are busted or just grumpy. I cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaning can but no improvement. :(

Can anyone suggest a test I can do to confirm the fault codes on MAF and O2 sensors? If busted, are there any Brisbane suppliers or shall I order in from UK/US?

Thanks yet again! I am confident that I will have this girl running smooth yet.

Post Edit: In the "Live Values" on the Reader, I get the following:
o2s11 0.840vo2s12 0.445v
o2s21 0.910v
o2s22 0.445v


Does this suggest that the O2 sensors are working?

[PaulP38a]

Glen - I have little faith in a normal OBDII scanner run aganst a P38. I once used one on mine and it reported a bunch of codes that related to gearbox and O2 sensor faults. When I ran it again after getting a FaultMate, the faults were not there.

Message here is: don't trust an OBDII scanner on a P38 just 'coz it has an OBDII port. Check with other AULRO members in your area who might have a multi-vehicle FaultMate licence that can help you diagnose the problems. I'm happy to buy the additional licences for mine and you are welcome to drop by and use it if you are near/in Canberra.

Cheers, Paul.

[glenhendry]

Thanks Paul. That is interesting and disappointing. Why have protocol standards if the device or the car is not going to be true to it?

On the good news front - My Rangey has stopped blowing black smoke on petrol!!!!! :banana:

I suspect it was an injector stuck partially open. And either the injector cleaner or the running on premium has allowed it to close. I am very happy. Now she is good on petrol and LPG!

Now that the engine is sorted, its onto the EAS. One bag drops overnight (driver's) and the compressor runs often, so I will hunt for airleaks with soapy water and contact the airbagman.

Anyone know the best place to get 4 spinner caps for my 18" hurricanes?

Thanks again for your input - it's been too long since I had a car that liked being tinkered with and I am enjoying it - my family car is a 08 Kluger. Nice/safe/smooth/quiet/powerful/efficient but boring... :)

[glenhendry]

Wow, reviewing my first post, two years later brings back memories. It seems that then I knew so little. Its now over 2 years and 400 posts later and jeepers have I had fun.

I am loving this car and tinkering with it. I wheel it hard and drive it to work every day and around every weekend. I suggests its close to impossible to get more capability/luxury/posture/style for so little money than our humble P38As.

Thanks again to this forum and the cadre of folks who are generous with their time and knowledge. I wish we could get all the P38s together for a Glasshouse Mountains offroad day - damn this wide brown land for being so... wide.

[mtb_gary]

Glenhendry, not sure about the "jeepers have I had fun" , maybe it should have been "rangies have I had fun" :D

Gary

[Keithy P38]

If I'm down that way any time ill send you a message mate! Always keen for a run, especially when I've never been there before!

[p38oncoils]

Wow, reviewing my first post, two years later brings back memories. It seems that then I knew so little. Its now over 2 years and 400 posts later and jeepers have I had fun.

I am loving this car and tinkering with it. I wheel it hard and drive it to work every day and around every weekend. I suggests its close to impossible to get more capability/luxury/posture/style for so little money than our humble P38As.

Thanks again to this forum and the cadre of folks who are generous with their time and knowledge. I wish we could get all the P38s together for a Glasshouse Mountains offroad day - damn this wide brown land for being so... wide.

The P38 Glasshouse Mountains trip sounds like a plan - you have now been officially appointed the trip moderator. Definitely count me in.

Omar