4BE1 twin oil filter

[rar110]

I bought one of these from a truck wrecker. Has anyone fitted one of these to a 4BD1?

[rijidij]

Does it look like the one in this pic ? I'm guessing it's likely to be the same housing, but not sure. If it is the same and it's in a County then you'll need spacer blocks.

Cheers, Murray

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/852.jpg

[lokka]

Does it look like the one in this pic ? I'm guessing it's likely to be the same housing, but not sure. If it is the same and it's in a County then you'll need spacer blocks.

Cheers, Murray

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/852.jpg

G'day Murray have you got any specs on them spacer blocks as i've got the same twin filter set up to go on my county .

[jerryd]

My 4BE1 engine has the twin filters fitted, but has no spacer blocks. You'll be able to have a look on sunday at "The Defender Day" if you wish to :)

[rar110]

Thanks Murray.

Yep looks the same.

I thing it is about 25mm too long for my bump stop space.

Are you planning to make anymore spacers in the next 12 mths. I have enough top mt oli filters til then.

Regards
Peter

Does it look like the one in this pic ? I'm guessing it's likely to be the same housing, but not sure. If it is the same and it's in a County then you'll need spacer blocks.

Cheers, Murray

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/852.jpg

[rijidij]

G'day Murray have you got any specs on them spacer blocks as i've got the same twin filter set up to go on my county .

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/978.jpg


Thanks Murray.

Yep looks the same.

I thing it is about 25mm too long for my bump stop space.

Are you planning to make anymore spacers in the next 12 mths. I have enough top mt oli filters til then.

Regards
Peter

The above pic is the basic dimensions, but if you're running a turbo you'll need to allow for the oil feed to connect to the top spacer (see pic below).
I had a mate mill these up from steel, but if I were to do it again I would make them from aluminium. I'm not planning on making any more at the moment, but I will be keeping an eye out for any aluminium billet I might come across.
I made mine 50mm thick, but 60mm is what they need to be to clear the bottom filter on the prop shaft yoke at full articulation.

Cheers, Murray

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/363.jpg

[rar110]

Thanks, will do, which 110 should I look out for?


My 4BE1 engine has the twin filters fitted, but has no spacer blocks. You'll be able to have a look on sunday at "The Defender Day" if you wish to :)

[isuzurover]

Another option is to get Adam (Agrojnr) to lasercut some for you like he did for Offender90, Inc and myself.

He can only cut up to 15 mm, and he said the distortion is less if they are 12mm, so you need to sandwich 5 plates together for the bottom one, but not a big deal.

Just use phosphoric acid to remove the mill scale from the plates, give them a light sand on a sheet of glass, then bolt them up with a smear of rtv/silicone between.

[rar110]

My 4BE1 engine has the twin filters fitted, but has no spacer blocks. You'll be able to have a look on sunday at "The Defender Day" if you wish to :)

Thanks for the offer Jerry. The day went pretty quick and I didn't get a chance to have a look.

[rar110]

I had a very quick look at Inside's Perentie on Sunday. I think it may have a 6x6 motor fitted with a twin filter setup. The twin filter and oil line had spacers fitted which looked like cast alloy. The bottom spacer had an AYG???? part no in raised lettering/numbering.

Anyone heard of this?

[Bearman]

I had a very quick look at Inside's Perentie on Sunday. I think it may have a 6x6 motor fitted with a twin filter setup. The twin filter and oil line had spacers fitted which looked like cast alloy. The bottom spacer had an AYG???? part no in raised lettering/numbering.

Anyone heard of this?

Peter,
The turbo 6X6 motors had them from factory. The top spacer is AYG0474 and the bottom one is AYG473. BMI stocks the bottom one but I had trouble trying to source a top one.

[Offender90]

Peter,

Here's a few photos of the setup isuzurover was talking about. The mounting surfaces on twin oil filter housings (both Ben's and mine) are offset by approx 4mm. So my bottom spacer is 60mm while the top spacer is 56mm. In the pic below, you can see the front plate is thinner than the rest. Might be worthwhile checking if yours is the same.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Cheers

Bojan

[weeds]

Does it look like the one in this pic ? I'm guessing it's likely to be the same housing, but not sure. If it is the same and it's in a County then you'll need spacer blocks.

Cheers, Murray

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/852.jpg

is there a reason for so many holes...weight?

[isuzurover]

is there a reason for so many holes...weight?

For the oil to flow through ;)

See the pic offender90 posted. That is how it would look ideally. I am surprised Rijidij's machinist didn't mill it out like that. I suspect there would be a slight decrease in flow.

[rar110]

Well looks like the bottom spacer is readily available. It is only the top spacer that is difficult to source. Has anyone considered extending the oil feed pipe horizontally instead of fabricating a spacer? Also my oil feed pipe has the same flange at each end as the top flange has no oil feed.

[weeds]

For the oil to flow through ;)

See the pic offender90 posted. That is how it would look ideally. I am surprised Rijidij's machinist didn't mill it out like that. I suspect there would be a slight decrease in flow.

oops, just had a closer look at the one on my bench, there is a little hole right at the back of the large cavity.......

[rijidij]

is there a reason for so many holes...weight?

Yeah, drilling it was the easiest way for me to do it at the time, and it is a heavy chunk of steel. As you can see from the pic of the block below, you don't need a huge cavity for the oil flow.
As I regularly use a laser cutter now, I would probably go the 'sandwich' method next time, but I'll still keep an eye out for some aluminium billet.

Cheers, Murray

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/366.jpg

[weeds]

thanks murray.....

[lokka]

Well looks like the bottom spacer is readily available. It is only the top spacer that is difficult to source. Has anyone considered extending the oil feed pipe horizontally instead of fabricating a spacer? Also my oil feed pipe has the same flange at each end as the top flange has no oil feed.

This may be the way to go do a cut and extend the top pipe and buy the bottom spacer the pipe wont be hard to cut and tig in an extension.

[lokka]

This may be the way to go do a cut and extend the top pipe and buy the bottom spacer the pipe wont be hard to cut and tig in an extension.


Well after having an oil filter housing leak and loosing close to 10L of oil over the weekend ive decided that fitting the twin spin on set up is a must .
I have found that the bottom spacer is available at about $165 from BMI in western sydney tho im going to see if i can get some made up from billet alloy if anyone else is interested let me know .
As for the top im just going to cut and extend the pipe and i can do others if need be just PM me :)

[cornbread15]

gday

just want to know what the correct depth of the spacers.
i have non turbo. is it 60mm for both top and bottom or 56 top and 60 mm bottom??

thanks simon:)

[Offender90]

gday

just want to know what the correct depth of the spacers.
i have non turbo. is it 60mm for both top and bottom or 56 top and 60 mm bottom??

thanks simon:)

Hi Simon,

The mounting faces on the engine are coplanar. If there is a difference, it would be on the filter mount itself. Both mine and isuzurover's were 4mm out (hence the 56mm and 60mm). It's best to check/measure your filter mount as I understand some have had coplanar ones as well(?)

Put the filter mount face down on a flat surface (I used a study desk), check for / measure the height difference between mounting surfaces and you're done.

Cheers

Bojan

[isuzurover]

Another option... Since Bojan and I made our spacers I have seen a couple of engines where the top pipe has been cut and an extension brazed in. So if you are happy to do that it means only one spacer, no new bolts for the top, and the difference in spacing between top and bottom is no issue.

[cornbread15]

thanks bojan and isuzu rover.
yeah i got the machinists at work setting me some up, for a cheesecake:)
yep just checked 4mm out so no worries just get the spacer machined down.
Simon

[lokka]

Another option... Since Bojan and I made our spacers I have seen a couple of engines where the top pipe has been cut and an extension brazed in. So if you are happy to do that it means only one spacer, no new bolts for the top, and the difference in spacing between top and bottom is no issue.


This is the option i will be using :D

[lokka]

I am still on the hunt for the right lump of ally to have some of these spacers made i may have to do them from steel yet will keep hunting :D

[HotWired]

Thought I would just ask this in here then start a new thread.

I was wondering what this hole (circled red, bit hard to see) on the twin filter setup was used for. I ask, because the pipe I got sent to me from the wreckers that goes from the oil cooler to filter housing doesnt have any where to put turbo feed line. If the hole (circled) isnt used for anything, can I use it?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

If not, ill have a spacer made up for the top and drill and tap that instead of just extending the pipe.

[Bearman]

That hole is for the oil feed line that goes to the timing cover on the front of the motor(truck motors). If yours is an original Landrover Isuzu it won't have this oil line so no reason why you cannot use it for the turbo feed.

[steveG]

That hole is for the oil feed line that goes to the timing cover on the front of the motor(truck motors). If yours is an original Landrover Isuzu it won't have this oil line so no reason why you cannot use it for the turbo feed.

Thats exactly what I've done on mine.

Steve

[jerryd]

This is my 4BE1 motor, might be useful pics to someone ;)

[Davehoos]

having fitted dozens of these-the spacer should be the same width as you are moving it out parralel.

when i asked why not throw these housings and retrofit a better type I was told it was due to isuzu suppliers waranty.I was told.we through away hundreds of power steering pumps.

the first 6X6 was fitted with these when the red wynns safari development vehicle destroyed an engine having the filter being hit by the drive shaft on a hard bump.might not be true but I was told.

the 12 6x6 I built had a 50mm spacer and the first wide cabs had an extra 10-20mm bit added from the original spacer being cut down.often these had to be filed to get a flat surface as they had been milled with a small cutter..the front the diff being 200mm wider the shaft had a wider angle.

I had thought the second filter was a bypass type with unwanted oil returned to the sump through the large square hole.

the spin on filter was an improvement on the old cartridge

[Bush65]

Yeah, drilling it was the easiest way for me to do it at the time, and it is a heavy chunk of steel. As you can see from the pic of the block below, you don't need a huge cavity for the oil flow.
As I regularly use a laser cutter now, I would probably go the 'sandwich' method next time, but I'll still keep an eye out for some aluminium billet.

Cheers, Murray

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/366.jpg
If your block is like that pictured, it is a waste to fit the dual filter setup - the bypass filter can't work when there is no hole to allow the oil to return to the sump.

[Bush65]

Thought I would just ask this in here then start a new thread.

I was wondering what this hole (circled red, bit hard to see) on the twin filter setup was used for. I ask, because the pipe I got sent to me from the wreckers that goes from the oil cooler to filter housing doesnt have any where to put turbo feed line. If the hole (circled) isnt used for anything, can I use it?

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/7056/img1462copyr.jpg

If not, ill have a spacer made up for the top and drill and tap that instead of just extending the pipe.
It is for the line that provides lube oil to the injection pump.

With the 4BD1T the lube line is extended from the injection pump banjo fitting to the front of the timing cover so that it lubes the automatic timing advance device in the timing gear.

[steveG]

If your block is like that pictured, it is a waste to fit the dual filter setup - the bypass filter can't work when there is no hole to allow the oil to return to the sump.

Geez - that's got me thinking...
Anyone know if a Landrover 4bd1 block usually has both holes?

Steve

[vllage idiot]

The engine l got had been in a Rangie and had a 3 inch spacer and an extended oil pipe, would'nt work in a 130. l shorten the pipe, did'nt use a spacer and fitted a remote f/f filter.
Cheershttp://P1020023

[vllage idiot]

Trying to attach piccy, wish l was bright!

[Dougal]

Functionally, what is the difference between running the dual filter housing and running the existing single while plumbing in a completely seperate bypass between the same supply and drain into the block?

[isuzurover]

Functionally, what is the difference between running the dual filter housing and running the existing single while plumbing in a completely seperate bypass between the same supply and drain into the block?

There is no difference. (Assuming you were running identical bypass filters in both cases). That also assumes that you have a flow restrictor for the bypass element like the ISUZU OEM has.

I need to pull my filters off now and check that the hole in the block is there :eek:

[Dougal]

There is no difference. (Assuming you were running identical bypass filters in both cases). That also assumes that you have a flow restrictor for the bypass element like the ISUZU OEM has.

That's what I figured. Since the singles appear easier to clear the front prop-shaft, surely an external bypass would be easier.

Mine has the factory dual system on hoses remotely above the PS box. The problem is oil changes could not be messier. The angled filters **** oil everywhere and my PS box is there to divert the flow into impossible to clean nooks.
The best I can do is a cardboard chute to collect as much as possible.



I need to pull my filters off now and check that the hole in the block is there :eek:

Do tell.:D

[Offender90]

There is no difference. (Assuming you were running identical bypass filters in both cases). That also assumes that you have a flow restrictor for the bypass element like the ISUZU OEM has.

I need to pull my filters off now and check that the hole in the block is there :eek:

Hate to be the bearer of bad news Ben...

...but I'm pretty sure neither our engine blocks had the 2nd hole. :wasntme:

[steveG]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news Ben...

...but I'm pretty sure neither our engine blocks had the 2nd hole. :wasntme:

If thats the case mine will probably be the same :BigCry:
Was going to run to 10K with the bypass, but if its not working then I've got an oil change coming up soon...

Steve

[isuzurover]

Hate to be the bearer of bad news Ben...

...but I'm pretty sure neither our engine blocks had the 2nd hole. :wasntme:

That was my recollection too. I thought we looked at that at the time and worked out it could still drain...

[steveG]

Unless I've got it round the wrong way, the single hole is the pressure feed to the full flow filter, and the outlet side of the filter goes up to oil cooler.
So slotting the spacer wont do squat.

Steve

[isuzurover]

Unless I've got it round the wrong way, the single hole is the pressure feed to the full flow filter, and the outlet side of the filter goes up to oil cooler.
So slotting the spacer wont do squat.

Steve

I think you have it around the wrong way slightly? (but my CAVEAT on that is my 110 is 4000 km away and I don't have Manuel with me).

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p29/isuzurover/LR_PICS/4BD1_Parts025.jpg

This image shows the twin filter. Full flow on left and Bypass on right. EDIT (due to trying to do 5 things at once) Filters flow from outside to inside.

[Davehoos]

drilling a hole or slotting--its a bypass filter then your not goint to get oil flow through the bypass filter untill the first filter is due to be replaced.

better to use the original filer and a small by pass mounted on the iner wing.

[isuzurover]

drilling a hole or slotting--its a bypass filter then your not goint to get oil flow through the bypass filter untill the first filter is due to be replaced.

better to use the original filer and a small by pass mounted on the iner wing.

AFAIK you are incorrect, the flow through the bypass filter is controlled by a nozzle in the screw thread (outlet) for the bypass filter. So having a common oil feed at the same pressure would still mean oil flows through both filters.

EDIT - however one is a feed and the other is the bypass drain - see below.

[rar110]

Just had a look at mine which is still on the bench. Oil flows from the tube into the center of the main filter (left as Ben said) and out into a hole near the edge of where the filter mounts the housing. It then either goes back to engine through the hole in the block shown in John's pic or to the bypas filter. It enters the bypass filter through the edge and exits through the center of the filter (so opposite of main filter) to the area in John's photo (top left) where there is no hole. The effect is the bypass filter would not work. It would easily fixed by drilling a hole in the block. I think grinding away a small section on the filter housing that divides the drain points might upset pressure imbalance that activates the bypass filter - but could be wrong.

[isuzurover]

Just had a look at mine which is still on the bench. Oil flows from the tube into the center of the main filter (left as Ben said) and out into a hole near the edge of where the filter mounts the housing. It then either goes back to engine through the hole in the block shown in John's pic or to the bypas filter. It enters the bypass filter through the edge and exits through the center of the filter (so opposite of main filter) to the area in John's photo (top left) where there is no hole. The effect is the bypass filter would not work. It would easily fixed by drilling a hole in the block. I think grinding away a small section on the filter housing that divides the drain points might upset pressure imbalance that activates the bypass filter - but could be wrong.

Pete - can you take/post a picture of the other side of the housing (if possible) please?

[steveG]

Just went out and took some photos as its been bugging me.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/202.jpg

Oil flows through the bypass filter, through the center restrictor and out the hole in the small section into the block.
Both filters are fed with pressure oil via the large section in the housing.
Oil that goes through the full flow filter leaves via the vertical pipe to the oil cooler housing etc.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/203.jpg

Center restrictor in the bypass filter...

If there's only one hole in the block then the bypass filter is just an ornament :(

Steve

[rar110]

I understood the vertical pipe to be the pressure side (source for filter and turbo) and the block to be the drain point.

[steveG]

I understood the vertical pipe to be the pressure side (source for filter and turbo) and the block to be the drain point.

Not correct according to the 4bd1T manual:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/190.jpg

Yes, its pressure at that point, but it has already gone through the main filter and is heading towards the oil cooler.

Steve

[jerryd]

If you look at the pics of my set up on page 3, you can see that the bypass filter points upwards. On closer inspection it appears to have an adaptor plate fitted that turns this filter upwards.
I'm not sure if this plate is readily available or not but it certainly keeps the filter out of harms way.

[steveG]

If you look at the pics of my set up on page 3, you can see that the bypass filter points upwards. On closer inspection it appears to have an adaptor plate fitted that turns this filter upwards.
I'm not sure if this plate is readily available or not but it certainly keeps the filter out of harms way.

That's actually the full flow filter that's pointing upwards. Bypass is the short fat one at the front.

How is the adapter plate attached, and does it look like a factory part, or one that someone has fabricated?

Steve

[isuzurover]

Not correct according to the 4bd1T manual:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/190.jpg

Yes, its pressure at that point, but it has already gone through the main filter and is heading towards the oil cooler.

Steve

Thanks Steve! I just spent ages copying and uploading the same pic!!!

So here it is anyway!
http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p29/isuzurover/Landrover_Oil004.jpg

Looks like some block drilling is in order for many of us. Shame the sump needs to be dropped to do it properly.

[steveG]

I've got an oil change due around the end of August, so will be doing mine then.
Also a pity the Isuzu sump gasket is around $50 - mine was new 5K ago - but I guess I can re-use the bypass filter, so that saves a few :D

Could also be a real bummer for anyone with a single piece spacer that's done a heavy duty job of loctiting their threaded rod studs in. I don't think there's enough clearance to the chassis rail to get the housing and spacer off if you cant get the rods out.

Edit: would be great if someone can find a photo of where the turbo block has the hole drilled

Steve

[steveG]

Closest I could find searching the net was this 4BD2T photo:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/335.jpg

Guess its going to pretty much the same as what we need to do.

Steve

[Bush65]

I understood the vertical pipe to be the pressure side (source for filter and turbo) and the block to be the drain point.
Sorry that is incorrect. Oil from the pump enters the filter housing via the hole in the block.

With a 4BD1T, with bypass filter the oil from the bypass filter drains back to the sump via a second hole located in the top left recess where the housing mounts.

[LRO]

Hi
Will take a photo of my 4bd1-t block tonight if no one has done it by then

[Bush65]

Hi
Will take a photo of my 4bd1-t block tonight if no one has done it by then
They look the same as the pic that Steve posted above.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/335.jpg

[HotWired]

Anyone thought of making the top spacer out of a nylon block.

[steveG]

Anyone thought of making the top spacer out of a nylon block.

Nope - never given it a thought.
Nylon is great for fuel pipes and fishing line, but not sure about a relatively long/thin component under clamping pressure of the mounting bolts. Think I'll stick with my aluminium spacer.

FWIW, its oil change time on the County. I've currently got the sump and filter housing off so it can grow a drain hole for the bypass filter.
Definitely hasn't got one at the moment :(

Steve

[Jock The Rock]

Query for those in the know.

I have a 1990 Isuzu County, it is fitted with a single spin on filter (Ryco part no Z419). Quite large in size.

What is the primary reason for people fitting the twin filter mounts? Is it for improved oil filtration or what?

I can fully understand why you would convert your engine to spin on, if your engine was originally fitted with the canister style filter. They are a ***** to change.

I used to work on JCB backhoes, they run a 4.4 litre turbo diesel. They have a service interval of 500hrs. So imagine that were a 4BD1 being driven at 100km/h every day for a total of 500hrs. That's a 50000km service interval. Even the older Perkins powered models had a 250hr interval. That's still roughly equivalent to 25000km. I've seen several Perkins powered backhoes running around with an excess of 10000hrs on the clock, still running, starting and digging no worries at all. They do pant a bit, but find me an engine that wouldn't with 10000hrs or 1000000ks on the clock

Yes I will admit they are running 13L of engine oil for the JCB 444 and 11L for the Perkins, but thats not much more than an Isuzu

Correct me if I'm wrong?

I was going to pull my filter mount off and adapt to the twin style but I'm not sure there is really any need.

Interested to hear peoples facts and thoughts

[HotWired]

Nope - never given it a thought.
Nylon is great for fuel pipes and fishing line, but not sure about a relatively long/thin component under clamping pressure of the mounting bolts. Think I'll stick with my aluminium spacer.

FWIW, its oil change time on the County. I've currently got the sump and filter housing off so it can grow a drain hole for the bypass filter.
Definitely hasn't got one at the moment :(

Steve

This might sound funny, but I made mine out of hardwood. Been meaning to get one machined up to replace it, but this one hasn't let me down yet :D

[Ancient Mariner]

The 4he1 has a fairly large filter holds about 1 liter if my engine is as good as the stealer said its gunna out live me by about 10 times:o.Oil capacity is 13 L
mine being 12L with mods to sump IMO the best option would be a centrifugal as the amount of crud they remove is incredible and just need to be cleaned

[Bush65]

IMO the reason for using a bypass filter is for better filtration.

My 4BD1T originally had the full flow plus bypass filters. I bought a centrifuge filter to replace the spin-on bypass filter to improve the soot removal further, with the intention of extended oil change intervals using synthetic oil.

[isuzurover]

Query for those in the know.

I have a 1990 Isuzu County, it is fitted with a single spin on filter (Ryco part no Z419). Quite large in size.

What is the primary reason for people fitting the twin filter mounts? Is it for improved oil filtration or what?

Yes.
Full flow filters remove the rocks (25-50 microns +)
Bypass filters (the second filter in the twin arrangement) remove smaller particles, which still cause a lot of wear.

Some engines (e.g. toyota [and probably some/all of the engines you are talking about if they have a single lube filter]) have a combined FF + Bypass in one filter element - but a lot of the aftermarket copies of toyota OEM filters don't.

[Jock The Rock]

Think I may just leave mine with the standard filter arrangement

If anyone wants a twin filter mount I have one sitting in my carport

[Zcoota]

Think I may just leave mine with the standard filter arrangement

If anyone wants a twin filter mount I have one sitting in my carport

Bit of an old thread but I'm at the same point and am wondering about this conversion. I have the old cartridge filter and have a twin filter setup sitting in the garage and am wondering if I should go to the effort of getting the spacer or just fitting a single spin on filter. The engine has a good 450,000km on it already and surely the damage is done already in terms of extra wear.

[ramblingboy42]

those who have a td5 and have observed their engine oil realise the value of twin oil filtration.

when I sold my D2 it had 375,000km on it and the engine appeared to be mechanically faultless , except for the engine accessories , which any td5 owner understands

[p38arover]

Bit of an old thread but I'm at the same point and am wondering about this conversion. I have the old cartridge filter and have a twin filter setup sitting in the garage and am wondering if I should go to the effort of getting the spacer or just fitting a single spin on filter. The engine has a good 450,000km on it already and surely the damage is done already in terms of extra wear.

For the spin single filter conversion, you might need this:
Spin-on Oil Filter Housing, 4BD1 - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/spin-on-oil-filter-head-4bd1/)

For twin filter conversion you might need this spacer block:
4BD1 Oil Filter Spacer - KLR Automotive (https://klrautomotive.com.au/oil-filter-spacer/)