The mushroom bit on the top

[dullbird]

Hello Oh knowledgeable ones:)

The mushroom looking thing on the top of the 4cyl petrol is it some sort of cleaner or something?

I looks like the one on the side which I thought was also to do with and air filter of some sort.

The reason I ask is I have just taken it off the rocker cover and I would like to just drop it in a bucket of degreaser before painting it black. however when I looked in the little gap on the side it loos like it has some sort of wire mesh of something in it (or perhaps filter material?)...so wanted to make sure I wasn't going to damage anything in there by doing so.

[87County]

you're not going to damage anything Lou, it's a breather (& a filter) and can do with a wash out at times

rinse & shake it well when you finish...

... and before you paint it, ensure that it's washed off with turps and allowed to dry

[dullbird]

Thank you exactly what I wanted to hear....

I will go wash it now perhaps its just debris caught up in it that I can see.

I dont have any turps here I have just been degreasing, washing with clean water and then wiping down with thinner seems to have been doing the trick

[87County]

Thank you exactly what I wanted to hear....

I will go wash it now perhaps its just debris caught up in it that I can see.

I dont have any turps here I have just been degreasing, washing with clean water and then wiping down with thinner seems to have been doing the trick

the wire mesh in it isn't debris - that's the filter !

[dullbird]

Ahhhhhh ok :)

thanks again

[dullbird]

Actually mine is quite oily is that normal?

[Sprint]

considering its the breather for the crankcase, yes, thats perfectly normal

[dullbird]

Thanks sprint:)

[drifter]

Hello Oh knowledgeable ones:)

The mushroom looking thing on the top of the 4cyl petrol is it some sort of cleaner or something?

I looks like the one on the side which I thought was also to do with and air filter of some sort.

The reason I ask is I have just taken it off the rocker cover and I would like to just drop it in a bucket of degreaser before painting it black. however when I looked in the little gap on the side it loos like it has some sort of wire mesh of something in it (or perhaps filter material?)...so wanted to make sure I wasn't going to damage anything in there by doing so.

Did you grab it and try to lift it off, look around to see if anyone had noticed, have a closer look and find that screw under it that holds it on?

I did :blush:

[dullbird]

Did you grab it and try to lift it off, look around to see if anyone had noticed, have a closer look and find that screw under it that holds it on?

I did :blush:

No I did give it a wiggle then noticed there was a bolt holding it in;)....
hahahahahaha

[drifter]

Bugger

[Mudpiggy]

The breather mesh is not just oily from the crankcase fumes either. You must oil the internal mesh for the filter to be effective in filtering out dust and dirt particles. I'll assume the engine has positive crankcase ventilation (a separate pipe running from the tappet cover to the engine intake, including PCV valve) which means that the mushroom you're talking about is an intake.

It is actually a good idea from time to time to remove the breather cap, wash it in kerosene (or similar), dry it out, and oil it, before replacing on the car. make sure you cover the hole in the timing cover with a rag or something, to stop insects etc. from crawling in and nesting :o

Hope this helps.

[isuzurover]

The breather mesh is not just oily from the crankcase fumes either. You must oil the internal mesh for the filter to be effective in filtering out dust and dirt particles. I'll assume the engine has positive crankcase ventilation (a separate pipe running from the tappet cover to the engine intake, including PCV valve) which means that the mushroom you're talking about is an intake.

It is actually a good idea from time to time to remove the breather cap, wash it in kerosene (or similar), dry it out, and oil it, before replacing on the car. make sure you cover the hole in the timing cover with a rag or something, to stop insects etc. from crawling in and nesting :o

Hope this helps.

What's all this PCV valve stuff - you are getting too advanced for an old landie ;) Series IIs and IIAs just had 2 open breathers, Which I think is the type DB/Lou has???

It will oil itself fast enough in use. Oiling it will actually decrease its capture efficiency for small oil droplets/dust particles.

It usually takes a bit of cleaning (i.e. strong degreaser) - but make sure all degreaser is properly cleaned out after as it is caustic.

[Blknight.aus]

to make it more effective carefully pry it apart and stuff it with Steel wire wool then put it back together.

dont forget to replace the O ring that seals it to the rocker cover and the lock screw will work loose so a drop of loctite 243 never goes astray.

some people like to replace it with the one from a series III and add the fitting to allow it to breath into the air intake. IMHO not a bad idea as it helps flow air through the sump preventing the accumulation of hydrocarbons that over time turns the oil acidic. If you do this I strongly suggest fitting a fuel filter in the breather line so that you can watch the oil production which gives you a good indication of the quality of the oil and your blowby.

[JDNSW]

What's all this PCV valve stuff - you are getting too advanced for an old landie ;) Series IIs and IIAs just had 2 open breathers, Which I think is the type DB/Lou has???
........

From the introduction of the 2.25 engine up to the end of Series 2a production, the crankcase breather system comprised a breather on top of the rocker case and another one on the oil filler. Bother were small oiled wire air cleaners, and need to be removed, cleaned and reoiled every service.

Optionally on the Series 2a, and standard on the Series 3, this setup was replaced by an airtight cap on the oil filler, with a pipe to a positive crankcase valve on the side of the carburetter, feeding into the intake manifold, and a sealed breather similar in appearance on the rocker cover, with a hose to the intake bend above the carburetter.

This became a legal requirement for all Landrovers sold in Australia some time in the mid sixties, and so is fitted to most late 2as. If the PCV is stuck, blocked or removed, the lack of crankcase ventilation is likely to result in condensation inside the engine, leading to all sorts of problems. This is most likely to be a problem in cool or damp climates. Replacement diaphragms for the PCV are available , I believe, and there is really no reason for disconnecting the system - it provides more reliable ventilation, and is less likely to allow grit to enter the engine.

John

[Blknight.aus]

1968/1969/1970 depending on state and it was applicable to the year of manufacture not the year of sale.

[dullbird]

mines a 1966.

I will replace the O ring as the one that came off has split/pinched.. and seemed loose anyway.

Does anyone have a part number or size for the O ring. I never seem to get the time to go to the shops these days so was just going to see if I could get my hands on an O ring kit of varying sizes prefebably with the size I need in it

[Blknight.aus]

the generic imperial GJ Oring kit has the right one in it but its a pricey way to get a one off oring.

better (slightly more costly) is to go and purchase the loctite O ring manufacturing kit it comes with everything you need to make pretty much every O ring known to man. It also comes with a dandy sheet covering different cross sections of various material should you wish to get exotic.

O Ring Splicing Kit - O-Rings - Supplies - Hardware : Grainger Industrial Supply (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/LOCTITE-Oring-Splicing-Kit-5A234)

lists at $101 or something like it

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ORing-Assortment-1RGZ3?BaseItem=5A234

lists at $136

[drifter]

It's part number 268887 and is £0.82 in the UK

If you get a top end gasket kit, you get one in there.

[Blknight.aus]

that being mentioned I have a couple of kits at home with it in.. if you get no joy anywhere else drop me a PM and I'll send you the bits.

[Mudpiggy]

What's all this PCV valve stuff - you are getting too advanced for an old landie ;) Series IIs and IIAs just had 2 open breathers, Which I think is the type DB/Lou has???

It will oil itself fast enough in use. Oiling it will actually decrease its capture efficiency for small oil droplets/dust particles.


Thanks isuzurover, that's my mistake. Everything I've ever worked on had the pcv setup, and either the mushroom breather or breather hose going to the air filter. Oiling the filter is what my grandfather always told me. He's an old timer mechanic, so perhaps ideas have changed? I'll remember to keep my filters clean and oil free from now on. :)

[isuzurover]

Thanks isuzurover, that's my mistake. Everything I've ever worked on had the pcv setup, and either the mushroom breather or breather hose going to the air filter. Oiling the filter is what my grandfather always told me. He's an old timer mechanic, so perhaps ideas have changed? I'll remember to keep my filters clean and oil free from now on. :)

No biggie either way, as they will oil themselves quickly enough.

The theory behind oiling is that it will help dust partciels to stick to the wires (i.e. reduce rebound or reentrainment). While there is some truth to that, the oil will also increase the mean velocity through the mesh, resulting in a lower capture efficiency for smaller particles, and at the same time it will give larger particles a higher inertia - making them more likely to rebound.

[dullbird]

complete gaskit kit bought which I think has the O ring in it..I needed all the gaskets for the exhaust manifold to go back on anyway..and the rubber seal for the rocker has seen better days.

looking forward to putting all the bits back on the engine.

[JDNSW]

No biggie either way, as they will oil themselves quickly enough.

The theory behind oiling is that it will help dust partciels to stick to the wires (i.e. reduce rebound or reentrainment). While there is some truth to that, the oil will also increase the mean velocity through the mesh, resulting in a lower capture efficiency for smaller particles, and at the same time it will give larger particles a higher inertia - making them more likely to rebound.

I do not think that the air velocity through the breathers is very high anyway, so this effect will be pretty small.

John

[isuzurover]

I do not think that the air velocity through the breathers is very high anyway, so this effect will be pretty small.

John

Doesn't need to be high. Filters usually operate at <<1m/s. Even a change from 0.1 to 0.11 m/s will affect things.

[numpty]

complete gaskit kit bought which I think has the O ring in it..I needed all the gaskets for the exhaust manifold to go back on anyway..and the rubber seal for the rocker has seen better days.

looking forward to putting all the bits back on the engine.

Make sure you have brass nuts for the exhaust manifold Lou, as they wont seize on the studs.

[dullbird]

Make sure you have brass nuts for the exhaust manifold Lou, as they wont seize on the studs.

Did brass nuts come originally? if so I will have them as everything taken off was going to be put back on.

otherwise where do I get them from? in saying that though the ones we took off were not seized.

[drifter]

Did brass nuts come originally? if so I will have them as everything taken off was going to be put back on.

otherwise where do I get them from? in saying that though the ones we took off were not seized.


$1.65 each - part PL132 (Brass Nuts) from fwd.com.au

[dullbird]

how many do I need...save me having to go out and count :angel:

[Blknight.aus]

no they wont have them as OEM...

My list of magic goops that go into the grab box


coppercoat antisiezing compound. This is usually used on exhaust nuts
molybdenum antisiezing grease. great for wheel nuts, radiator mounting bolts and chassis/body bolts.
Teflon Spray Dry lube. Great for door locks and linkages
loctite 567, perfect for sump plugs and the like
loctite 510/515 a sealant for things like drive flanges
loctite #3, aka hylomar #3, aka non hardening gasket sealant #3 aka Permatex #3 and AKA "that brown goopy crap that leaks everywhere if you tip it over even if the bottle has its lid on" good for pretty much everthing that has a paper/cork gasket ESP cooling system stuff.
Loctite 243 (for bolts you dont want to come loose easily and for reusing locknuts)
loctite 262 (for bolts you seriously dont want coming loose untill you want them too
ATV gasket sealstic in Red, Blue and Grey (for stuff exposed to Fuel, oil and general stuff respectively)


IF you're getting into doing gearboxes and the like a tube of 620 is also worth looking at.

I'm looking at getting my local tool shop to set me up some loctite kits if you're interested.

[drifter]

how many do I need...save me having to go out and count :angel:

3 - if we are still talking about the attachment for the front pipe to the manifold (for a 'normal' 2a).

Mate, if your old ones came off no sweat I wouldn't worry about it. I bought new ones because I had to replace my manifold - the damned thing was broken and the studs snapped

So I bought new studs and nuts from fwd.com.au for the manifold I was given.

[dullbird]

yeah I spoke to Ian and he said they came off really easily.