dual battery

[Pauly85]

Hey everyone, ive been looking at some dual battery setups, and came across this one which i can get for $165

BAINTECH Dual Battery Control Kit | Dual Battery Isolators | Product Range | Bainbridge Technologies (http://www.baintech.com.au/dual-battery-isolators/baintech-dual-battery-control-kit)

Has anyone used this one before? i only want to run a waeco fridge and a couple of camp lights off of the second battery, does this system 'check all the boxes'?

and whilst im on the subject, where have you guys fitted your second batteries? ive seen the arb battery tray that mounts to the firewall, but i was wondering if anyone has removed their jack mounting, and placed the second battery next to the main one?

thanks in advance!

[grover7488]

and whilst im on the subject, where have you guys fitted your second batteries? ive seen the arb battery tray that mounts to the firewall, but i was wondering if anyone has removed their jack mounting, and placed the second battery next to the main one?

thanks in advance!

ARB one works ok but can only fit a 55AH max and the TD5's can cause some heat issues
some people mount them in the rear storage bins (need to use a sealed batt) if you dont have the 7 seat version
can run two batts where the original one was but you will need two new batteries (optima or exide orbital) as there isnt alot of room and the stock batt is pretty big

[FISHGUTS]

The position of the second battery will depend on your model and engine as the Diesel location is different to the V8. There are many threads on the subject of second battery box locations within the site just use the search function.

Cheers,

Peter.

[Pauly85]

ok thanks heaps guys, i tried the search but didnt look hard enough, ill try again!!

by the way its a 7 seater V8!

Thanks again

[999]

Has anyone relocated the air box to the rear of the engine bay? I've been thinking it may be an option.

Make a custom snorkel and route the duct like a mantec.

[Narangga]

ok thanks heaps guys, i tried the search but didnt look hard enough, ill try again!!

by the way its a 7 seater V8!

Thanks again

You can lock the search down to the D2 section although you may want to see installations in other vehicles.

Make sure you include 'duel' as a search due to spelling errrors.

You can check The Verandah for options from Traxide too. I have bought the latest unit.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

ok thanks heaps guys, i tried the search but didnt look hard enough, ill try again!!

by the way its a 7 seater V8!

Thanks again

using the advanced search,
using "dual batteries:" as keyword
searching entire posts
in the D2 forum
returns 33 results,,

how many deal with 7 seater V8's is a mystery!:D

[Narangga]

using the advanced search,
using "dual batteries:" as keyword
searching entire posts
in the D2 forum
returns 33 results,,

how many deal with 7 seater V8's is a mystery!:D

And using 'duel' instead of 'dual'?

[Pauly85]

thanks guys! i re-tried searching and what do you know? it works if you spell things correctly haha

will check the verandah now for the traxide unit

in response to the arb unit which can only fit 55 ah max, how many hours would i get out of this running a 35 ltr waeco fridge/freezer?

sorry for the stupid questions, im a panel beater.....i generally hate auto electrics!

[Pedro_The_Swift]

And using 'duel' instead of 'dual'?

you end up with this--
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Narangga]

you end up with this--
http://users.telenet.be/roadmaster/mdl25duel2.jpg

Is that what they call a Mexican Standoff?

[grover7488]

The position of the second battery will depend on your model and engine as the Diesel location is different to the V8

they are in the same location regardless of engine.

I removed my ARB from my TD5 and then installed it in my V8:cool:

[grover7488]

in response to the arb unit which can only fit 55 ah max, how many hours would i get out of this running a 35 ltr waeco fridge/freezer?


This would depend on the ambient temp and how low the thermostat was set..
Not sure on the power consumption of a 35lt but the 50lt waeco draws an average of about 0.9A/hr so would be about 60hours.

[Pauly85]

thanks grover, that gives me a rough guide to work with then!

and thanks again to everyone else who has helped so far!

my plan at the moment is to fabricate a new battery tray (thanks to CJT's useful post with pics and dimentions of a tray he bought from the states) and fit possibly 2 optima red tops, hopefully they will do the job nicely for my trips!

[CJT]

Pauly85,

You can find come more information on everything I have used and will be using in the install here;

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/118831-cjts-d2-dual-battery-setup-2.html

[grover7488]

and fit possibly 2 optima red tops

hey paul i would use the Yellow or Blue tops

[Tombie]

My ARB tray has an 80ah Cat Battery in it

[grover7488]

My ARB tray has an 80ah Cat Battery in it

WT??!! Is it a deep cycle?

My Orbital really only just fit and that ment losing the ARB hold down and i didnt bother with a heat shield as the V8 doesn't have that turbo thingy to worry about:p

[Cosmic Tourist]

You can actually fit a 140 amp hour battery in the standard battery tray.
I use one like this

12v 140AH DEEP CYCLE/MARINE/4WD AGM BATTERY 2yr warr. (eBay item 290351422012 end time 12-Jan-11 14:59:13 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12v-140AH-DEEP-CYCLE-MARINE-4WD-AGM-BATTERY-2yr-warr-/290351422012?pt=AU_Boat_Parts_Accessories&hash=item439a4b1a3c)

with 1350 CCA and 140 amp hours.

It should be enough to run the fridge and camp lights without the additional expense of a second battery, battery tray, battery charging system etc.
It worked for me because my old battery was on its last legs, whether its worth replacing a good battery I dont know.

It require a little modification, I cut out the bottom of the battery tray,
put thin rubber over the sharp bits that may abrade the battery.
I also wrapped the battery in a sheet of strong tarp I had.
The posts cant be fitted, so flat type battery starter cables connect the battery to the leads (supercheap auto, or repco)
The top wont fit back on, and its too high to clamp down, but it is a VERY tight fit as you can imagine, and I cant see it moving even in a serious prang.
The top doesnt fit back on, so its exposed in all its glory.
If you like I can post some pics, its one solution.

[Tombie]

WT??!! Is it a deep cycle?

My Orbital really only just fit and that ment losing the ARB hold down and i didnt bother with a heat shield as the V8 doesn't have that turbo thingy to worry about:p

Had orbital and it fit easy...

Will take pics one day...

[Urban Panzer]

thanks grover, that gives me a rough guide to work with then!

and thanks again to everyone else who has helped so far!

my plan at the moment is to fabricate a new battery tray (thanks to CJT's useful post with pics and dimentions of a tray he bought from the states) and fit possibly 2 optima red tops, hopefully they will do the job nicely for my trips!

You would be better either using 2 yellow tops, or a Redtop for starter and Yellow for you Aux batt.

[Psimpson7]

You can actually fit a 140 amp hour battery in the standard battery tray.
I use one like this

12v 140AH DEEP CYCLE/MARINE/4WD AGM BATTERY 2yr warr. (eBay item 290351422012 end time 12-Jan-11 14:59:13 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12v-140AH-DEEP-CYCLE-MARINE-4WD-AGM-BATTERY-2yr-warr-/290351422012?pt=AU_Boat_Parts_Accessories&hash=item439a4b1a3c)

with 1350 CCA and 140 amp hours.

If you like I can post some pics, its one solution.

I would be interested to see if you had a chance to post the pics.

[foss]

I stuck a 140ah deep cycle in a sealed battery box where a rear bin should go (i "binned" both)...bolted it down & linked it to the Optima red under the bonnet with a National Luna monitor & Tmax split system...works great

[BHJ]

I was about to fabricate my own battery try for the TD5 when I saw an ARB model.. After purchasing and fitting the ARB I found it saved a great deal of time, fitted perfectly with with very few hassles. It fits against the firewall on the passengers side of the vehicle. I have fitted a Deep Cycle-King EB50 battery and run an engel, lights, and HF radio and have found no problems. This was an easy and worthwhile alternative to stuffing around trying to design and fabricate my own battery holder.

[Lyonbyrd]

I put a dual battery system in the boot of mine to run a waeco fridge. Ran a cable to the starter battery, both batteries are full 12inch deep cycle. Took away part of the bucket panel in the boot & hid cables & fuses in the hollow around the seat belt winder:BigThumb:

[DCPAus]

I have been doing some research (remember though that I am no electro/auto whizz kid)

And I have found these battery isolators/relays which seem well priced and look really robust

Amazon.com: PAC PAC200 Battery Isolator, 200 Amp Relay: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41wfidZt3iL.@@AMEPARAM@@41wfidZt3iL

The plan is to fit an Orbital battery in the right rear bin, and then replace the side cover of the bin with heavy duty hinged marine ply, mounted on to the inside of this will be a 12v/220v inverter so that on the outside of the ply, I will have the following


1 * 220v standard plug (for laptops etc)
2-3 * cigarette lighter plugs
1 * other plug not sure whether Anderson or something else

So what I will end up with in the rear bin, is a Dual Battery and full Power board set up using the Isolator above

As the project kicks of I will load photo's

[FISHGUTS]

they are in the same location regardless of engine.

I removed my ARB from my TD5 and then installed it in my V8:cool:

My mistake, was following another thread but looks like a misinterpretation on my part.
Cheers,
Peter.

[Sharkee]

My set up in the rear right seat well has a fullriver 120a/h battery with my mobitronic for the fridge, extra sockets and will eventually my invertor will go in there too. I made a bracket that bolts to the seat mount and so far seems ok. I cant seem to load the photo so here is the link if ya interested.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/119541-d2-dual-battery-set-up-compressor-cb-fitting-rear-shovel-axe-holder.html

[timbo72]

I used the BEP marine battery isolator, which is a heavy duty marine automatic unit, fully waterproof. This can be coupled to a heavy duty BEP switch to jump start the car if you have to - would be difficult with jumper leads if battery is in the cargo bin. Similar price to dedicated 4wd units which are not designed to big marine diesels etc. Is under $200 for a switch and isolator unit, check whitworths, BLA etc.
My ARB tray has worked well for the last 5 years.

[Psimpson7]

I've ordered one of these for ours. $210 landed from UK (Made by Durite)

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/battconns/images/60532.gif

Electronically switched double pole battery isolator.
Phenolic moulding with 'sheffield plate' contacts and studs.
Includes terminal covers (not shown in photo).
Normally open contacts. 10mm studs for main connections.

Operating it with a Defender heated seat switch which fits the d2 switch panel (where the hdc switch etc is)

[Pauly85]

wow, alot of replies since i last logged on!!

thanks heaps for the suggestions and advice guys, just a question though, what would be wrong with fitting 2 redtops?

i had an arb price list emailed to me, just need to go through it to check the prices of their trays, ive heard alot of people say they only payed around $80, but i have never seen them on ebay for less than $150, and for that money i would preffer to make my own!!

thanks again for the advice everyone!

[grover7488]

the ARB trays used to only be about $60. may have gone up a bit tho since i bought mine.
could never work out why people paid so much for them on Fleabay :o

[Sharkee]

I bought one about a month ago from ARB Thomastown and I think it was about $69ish. Although I fitted it I never used it for a battery as its capacity is too small, so my air compressor and battery isolater live in there now.

[russV82a]

You can actually fit a 140 amp hour battery in the standard battery tray.
I use one like this

12v 140AH DEEP CYCLE/MARINE/4WD AGM BATTERY 2yr warr. (eBay item 290351422012 end time 12-Jan-11 14:59:13 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12v-140AH-DEEP-CYCLE-MARINE-4WD-AGM-BATTERY-2yr-warr-/290351422012?pt=AU_Boat_Parts_Accessories&hash=item439a4b1a3c)

with 1350 CCA and 140 amp hours.

It should be enough to run the fridge and camp lights without the additional expense of a second battery, battery tray, battery charging system etc.
It worked for me because my old battery was on its last legs, whether its worth replacing a good battery I dont know.

It require a little modification, I cut out the bottom of the battery tray,
put thin rubber over the sharp bits that may abrade the battery.
I also wrapped the battery in a sheet of strong tarp I had.
The posts cant be fitted, so flat type battery starter cables connect the battery to the leads (supercheap auto, or repco)
The top wont fit back on, and its too high to clamp down, but it is a VERY tight fit as you can imagine, and I cant see it moving even in a serious prang.
The top doesnt fit back on, so its exposed in all its glory.
If you like I can post some pics, its one solution.

I would also be interested to see a picture of this set up. If you get a chance to post some up. It would certianly keep things simple not having to control 2 batteries.

Cheers.

[Defender Mike]

After looking at Thumpers etc. i wanted a dual battery system that could leave the vehicle and power the fridge, lights etc in the tent. I went to the 12 volt shop and bought a 120 amp hour battery in a box and had it fitted with a fridge plug and 2 cigarette lighter plugs. This set up lives behind the single split rear seat. When I get to camp site it unplugs using anderson connectors and goes in the tent the solar cells keep it charged.
I used a marine grade automatic batery isolator all works great and the whole thing cost a lot less than a thumer or a arb set up plus its portable.

[Hastykiwi]

I've been pottering with a dual battery setup over the last couple of weeks, and in the end I went with the traxide 160 controller mounted in the jack cavity, and a battery in the back left storage bin. Not much point in showing pics of the controller, but while the battery is still coming, I attached a couple of pics of the bin. I'm still thinking of all the possibilities for aux power outlets, so at this stage I've put two in the rear, one on the top of the left seat belt cover, and one at the right rear. I have a idea about one on the rear side of the centre console for the kids DVD etc, but any other ideas welcome.

At this stage you can see the positive cable running from the main battery, and the fuse block for the aux outlets. The earth for the aux battery is still to be run. Any constructive thoughts welcome.


I should say once again it is so much easier doing these things standing on the shoulders of those who have done it before.

cheers
Nick

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/hastykiwi-albums-tyres-picture2181-imgp0966.jpg


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/hastykiwi-albums-tyres-picture2177-imgp0962.jpg

[strangy]

Aside from the dual carrier in the original position, does anyone know if the Piranha carrier handles a bigger battery than the ARB?

cheers

[Hastykiwi]

I know there is not much interesting about another dual battery setup, but this is the battery as it sits now.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/hastykiwi-albums-tyres-picture2194-imgp0633.jpg
The most interesting bit is the battery was off ebay from Regent Dynamics, a chap named Garry and he was excellent to deal with. Battery is good, he was happy to have a freight pick up, boxed it for me, and applied the freight label I emailed him. All up $51 for a 90 ah AGM deep cycle battery, $41 freight to Perth, Aulro price on the USI160 controller from Traxide (thnx Tim), and $100 worth of cabling. Still around the cost of a deep cycle AGM on its own.

All working good!

cheers
Nickhttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Pauly85]

well after alot of thinking/planning and general time wasting i bit the bullet the other day and bought a 11a/h redarc isolator, and an arb tray that goes up on the firewall, and on payday im buying an optima yellow top d34 which is a 55a/h, this setup should be more than effeciant to run what i want,

i got the isolator on special for $100 and the try from arb in kilsyth for $68, for that price is sure as hell asnt worth the effort to build my own!

thanks alot for everyones replies and advice, greatly appreciated!

[B92 8NW]

Hastykiwi I have the same controller. I was looking at running the cabling to the back like your setup but it's a hell of a lot of 2AWG:eek:. Did you use the cable supplied by Tim?

[disco_disco]

Hey sorry to dig up an oold thread but im currently doing a similar dual battery set-up to you and was wondering where you decided to earth the second battery ?

[Pedro_The_Swift]

There are a few earth strap/points on the D2.
Not being an auto 'lecky I would ASSUME any solid connection to the chassis should surfice.

Isnt there a dedicated earth point near the Fuse box?
You dont realise just how long a D2 is till you have to run cable from the front to the back:p

[Pauly85]

if you are going to use the empty space in the engine bay on the firewall (which i did, i used the arb tray and modifyed it to fit an optima battery) i used the engine earth point (just the lead from the block to the firewall) the stud on the firewall is long enough to fit both earth leads onto it

mines a V8, i dont know if the td5 earths to a different point

[The Angry Chook]

Question for the people who put the battery in the rear. How much cable was used? I've bought 10m of 8mm cable so far. Going to earth it behind tail lights. Will I have enough cable? Also what size battery fits in the box with the cover still on?
I want as much power as I can get to run the amp and sub as well as some led work lights and fridge.
Going to run cable and wiring today while I wait for the redarc to be delivered and I make up my mind on which battery to get.

[disco_disco]

I just scraped in with 6m of red 8mm cable and 1 meter of black 8mm, I mounted the dual battery controller under the drivers seat also earthed the second battery behind the rear tail light as you've suggested. i fitted a 120AH in mine quite easilly, i think max width of the inside of the box is 190mm. all you will need to do is raise the battery off the base of the box as the bottom of the box is curved and the facia has tabs which you need to slot into the bottom of the box.
Also you going to need a small hex socket set to get the facia screws off.

[The Angry Chook]

Figured it out yesterday. Fitted all the wiring for the battery. Had about 1.5m left over after I used some for the earth as well.
Does the 120AH need the facia removed to remove it from the box? Not that I think I'll need to remove the battery regularly.
I also put some supporting bits of wood underneath the box at a suggestion from HastyKiwi to support the plastic underneath the battery.

So a summary for those interested.
I ran the cable along the chassis then up through the vent on the driver's side behind the box. Then earthed it to the point behind the tail lights. I also fitted two switches in anticipation of LED camping/fishing light's. I also fitted a heavy duty 12v socket on the same side underneath the seatbealt.
Was reasonably easy once I got all the panels off and found a spot to get the cable inside the car. I then realised there is a bung on the passenger side I could have used as well. Oh well, would have meant more cable anyway.

[disco_disco]

You can try and squeeze it out as the facia will flex a bit but probably easier just to undo it if you ever wanted to remove it.
Looks like a good install, and have to agree suprising how much cable you actually need.

[Barney2803]

Can you tell me if the isolator depends on what size battery you are putting in? Did you need a 120Ah isolator? I am thinking of getting a 150Ah battery and hence working out what isolator i need.

any advice would be great!

[bee utey]

Can you tell me if the isolator depends on what size battery you are putting in? Did you need a 120Ah isolator? I am thinking of getting a 150Ah battery and hence working out what isolator i need.

any advice would be great!

The rating amp-hours means how much energy is stored in your battery. (for example a 150Ah battery rated at a 20-hour discharge rate would provide about 7.5 amps for 20 hours, but would then be completely flat.)

An isolator does not care how long it needs to connect a battery so it is rated by how much current it can handle, in amps. So a 120A isolator is ample for charging and general use.