Panel beating - Can this one be done?

[Wil2k]

Hi All!

Have just found a replacement D2 that fits my budget nicely. Down side is that it has a bit of a dent from being clipped by a bus.

Any suggestions on where I can get this fixed up properly around Bris? Also any idea of cost? If it's too expensive I might just live with it.

I'm inspecting the vehicle next weekend with a view to buy. Annoyingly it's in NSW and I'm in QLD. :)

32256

Cheers

Wil

[Discobaker]

They may be able to get inside the guard to repair it if they only have to take the rear most damaged panel off. Should be able to get it pretty straight again but I'd think if they have to remove the entire quarter off it'd become costly in labour terms. If you go with it & get it repaired, maybe request some progressive pics of the job so u know what's going to be underneath the paint on completion :)
Cost, I'm not sure, get a few quotes & decide from there, in my experience there can be some massive differences from one end of the scale to the other. Looks to me like it's all panels damage rather than internal though which is good :)
Hope I've helped rather than confused :)

[Pauly85]

that is purely cosmetic damage, but the problem with repairing that is its made out of aluminium, so unless it is sent to a workshop that has the proper equiptment to weld a plate to the aluminium panel and pull the damage out, then the only other way to fix it properly is a new quater panel,

from memory there isnt alot of access behind the trims in that area, but having said that it has been a while since ive done a smash repair on a quater panel of a series 2

[Discobaker]

that is purely cosmetic damage, but the problem with repairing that is its made out of aluminium, so unless it is sent to a workshop that has the proper equiptment to weld a plate to the aluminium panel and pull the damage out, then the only other way to fix it properly is a new quater panel,

from memory there isnt alot of access behind the trims in that area, but having said that it has been a while since ive done a smash repair on a quater panel of a series 2

Most P beaters use mig now I'd think so it's just a matter of if they have aluminum wire & the experience I guess

[Pauly85]

yeah you can get aluminium migs, alot of panel shops out there dont have this equiptment still

we have a machince called a 'mig brazer' also called 'silicon bronze' with a secong lance which we can run aluminuim though it

a traditional mig welder is no good for aluminium

[PhilipA]

Wouldn't you just whack it in a bit and bog it?
Seems a lot of expense to go to for a little cosmetic damage.
Regards Philip A

[Pauly85]

yeah you could do that, just depends if he wants it fixed properly or 'dodged up'

[cockie55]

For a quick and dirty DIY you can work the crease/bump out using a slide hammer but you will need to use welded or L shaped pullers as expanding screw in type will just pull out of alloy. Alternatively pull off the panel and hammer out with a dolly behind. Then bog and paint.

[bee utey]

You may be able to push a piece of wood behind the damage from underneath. Shape the piece of wood to fit. Undo the mud flap bracket for access. When in place gently tap down the high points. Also pull out the tail light and push from inside there.

[Rosscoe68]

or back into a bus and claim insurance repair :)

[PhilipA]

You may be able to push a piece of wood behind the damage from underneath. Shape the piece of wood to fit. Undo the mud flap bracket for access. When in place gently tap down the high points. Also pull out the tail light and push from inside there.

Then put the bog in it as will have to be done unless a new panel is used, and the fix then will probably be more than the value of the car.. The paint would be very expensive . Any sort of repair will have to use some bog.
You could always leave it as , as soon as you clean up the last dent, Murphy's law will insist that it is replaced by another.
Regards Philip A

[isuzurover]

That is an easy repair if you know what you are doing. If no access from in side, then drill a couple of holes, use an l-shaped puller (slide hammer), then weld up the holes (not essential), grind, bog, sand, uc/putty, sand, paint.

It would be a good opportunity to teach yourself how to do panel work.





a traditional mig welder is no good for aluminium

WTF???

Change the wire to Al, change the tip to the correct size, change to a poly liner and change the gas and you are good to go.

[Pauly85]

then weld up the holes (not essential).

WTF??? Since when is it not essential to weld any holes you create in the process of repairing a panel???

[bee utey]

WTF??? Since when is it not essential to weld any holes you create in the process of repairing a panel???
The panel is decorative only, any holes will not affect waterproofing. Ally doesn't bleed rust from little holes like steel does. It's the steel panel inside of that keeps out the dust and water.

[Discobaker]

That is an easy repair if you know what you are doing. If no access from in side, then drill a couple of holes, use an l-shaped puller (slide hammer), then weld up the holes (not essential), grind, bog, sand, uc/putty, sand, paint.

It would be a good opportunity to teach yourself how to do panel work.




WTF???

Change the wire to Al, change the tip to the correct size, change to a poly liner and change the gas and you are good to go.

I thought as much being a boiler maker by trade but haven't practiced for 10 years so not being in the game means I've no idea what sort of equipment is now available therefore didn't have the confidence to question the process :)

[awabbit6]

WTF??? Since when is it not essential to weld any holes you create in the process of repairing a panel???

Often the distortion created during welding is more difficult to deal with than a small hole.
I would be apprehensive welding a panel as large and "flat" as a Disco quarter panel. Particularly when access to get a dolly behind is poor.

[awabbit6]

I've got all of the interior trims out of the back of my Disco at the moment to fit a compressor in the rear quarter.
While it's all apart I noticed this vent in the drivers side quarter inner panel.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/884.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/885.jpg

It looks as though it may pull through to the inside but there may be screws holding an outer part on.

If you can get it out easily, it should give good access behind the damage on the car you are looking at.

[Slunnie]

that is purely cosmetic damage, but the problem with repairing that is its made out of aluminium, so unless it is sent to a workshop that has the proper equiptment to weld a plate to the aluminium panel and pull the damage out, then the only other way to fix it properly is a new quater panel,

from memory there isnt alot of access behind the trims in that area, but having said that it has been a while since ive done a smash repair on a quater panel of a series 2

They can panel beat that. They Panel beat it back into shape and then lead wipe it. That's how Barry Smith Holden at Pennant Hills in Sydney repaired my Discovery's ally panels. You would never know that it has had a hit.

[Slunnie]

Change the wire to Al, change the tip to the correct size, change to a poly liner and change the gas and you are good to go.

Its a lot more difficult to MIG ally in comparison to steel and you will burn a lot of contact tips learning. I'd hate to even try it on a thin automotive panel - way better man than me doing that! I'd TIG. You will also need to change the rollers.

[isuzurover]

Its a lot more difficult to MIG ally in comparison to steel and you will burn a lot of contact tips learning. I'd hate to even try it on a thin automotive panel - way better man than me doing that! I'd TIG. You will also need to change the rollers.

If I can do it it can't be that hard ;)

you need to use a block of brass/bronze on the other side of the panel you are welding as a heat sink.

[Slunnie]

If I can do it it can't be that hard ;)

you need to use a block of brass/bronze on the other side of the panel you are welding as a heat sink.
Thats a good idea! Better than preheating with oxy to prevent cold lapping, but I find thick metal hard enough without contemplating thin stuff!