Freeing 2A brakes to get on trailer.

[kodez23]

Just bought my first Landy (2A Ex-Army) and the left hand rear brake is locked on. I need a quick way to unlock it to get it on the trailer to get it home and do a full brake overhaul. Any hints?
The right hand rear wheel is also seems locked but has a bit of of play in it. Is this more likely to be a brake or axle/diff problem.
Cheers,
Dave.

[JayBoRover]

Sounds awfully like a mate that bought a Land-Cruiser ute with a blown rear diff that had locked up. When picked up on a tow truck they simply winched it on using the grunty winch of the tow truck bed. The big problem was when they had to get it off at the other end:o.

Try jacking the rear up and putting some plastic trays (like McDonalds use for serving trays) and then winch it onto the car trailer. The plastic tray makes it close to frictionless. (Ever seen the idiots sliding around the shopping mall car-parks in the wee hours in front wheel drive cars with the rear wheels on McDonalds trays??:mad:)

[Landy Smurf]

^agreed

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Take the offending wheel/s off the drum. Back off the brake adjuster/s fully then hit the around the circumference of the drum with some heavy blows of a lump or similar hammer.

[kodez23]

Cool, thanks guys. I've ordered manuals but haven't received them yet so I'm assuming the brake adjuster is the big bolt next to the bleed nipple? And I turn it anti clockwise to back it out?
Cheers again.
Dave.

[JDNSW]

Cool, thanks guys. I've ordered manuals but haven't received them yet so I'm assuming the brake adjuster is the big bolt next to the bleed nipple? And I turn it anti clockwise to back it out?
Cheers again.
Dave.

Not exactly next to the bleed nipple, but it is the big bolt by itself on the backing plate. Rotate anticlockwise to back off, full motion is less than one turn, when it should reach a stop turning in this direction. This will not release the brake if a cylinder is seized, as is likely, although banging on the drum as suggested may help.

If the problem is a busted diff, as was also suggested, simply remove the drive flanges including half axles - slide out a couple of inches and then replace with at least one bolt once on the trailer to keep dirt out.

John

[kodez23]

The backing plate has two large bolts on the back, one on either side. Are they series 3 backing plates? I tried loosening off both of them but it still won't budge. Any further clues?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Presuming that you got the adjusters (which should feel like little knotches as you turn when nearly tight - turning the other way they should come to a dead stop) and not the cylinder mounting bolts which are right next to the bleed nipple.

If the shoes didn't come off then you need harder blows or a heavier hammer or both.

If they still wont roll, you'll either have to winch it on with a seized wheel or destroy the brake drum.

[kodez23]

Mission accomplished. All drums came off, whole brake system was bone dry. Adjusters used to bring shoes in (with a few taps from the rubber mallet to get them as far as they'd go). Drums back on, vehicle on trailer and home she went. Now sitting in the driveway/vehicle restoration bay (with some outstanding car trailer reversal skill from my mate Colin). Thanks again for the help, I'm sure there'll be more questions yet. Should I ask here about the cheapest source of parts or view/start another thread on that?
Cheers,
Dave.

[JDNSW]

Probably not necessary, but before you do, think carefully whether you really want the "cheapest" parts. Many Series parts come in a variety of qualities, generally (but not always) reflected in the price. I suggest that you will want to get parts from a variety of sources.

John

[Lostkiwi]

Do we get to see some pic's of the new arrival? :)..........Please:D

[JayBoRover]

Mission accomplished. All drums came off, whole brake system was bone dry. Adjusters used to bring shoes in (with a few taps from the rubber mallet to get them as far as they'd go). Drums back on, vehicle on trailer and home she went. Now sitting in the driveway/vehicle restoration bay (with some outstanding car trailer reversal skill from my mate Colin). Thanks again for the help, I'm sure there'll be more questions yet. Should I ask here about the cheapest source of parts or view/start another thread on that?
Cheers,
Dave.
That's great news Dave:). I'm glad it wasn't a seized diff, an empty brake system sounds much easier to deal with!

+1 on the piccies request;)

[kodez23]

Photo as requested, I'll try to take some more some time, I was too busy with logistics to snap a whole bunch. She's got a weird paint job that I actually sort of like. I just want to get her up and running before I worry too much about re-painting her. The headlight setup is odd too, are they Series three front guards on her? I'll get all her details on REMLR when I get time.
Cheers,
Dave.

[NiteMare]

someone has added those headlights in the wings, they or similar were fitted in many cars in the 60's-early 70's so possibly came out of a scrap car complete

they were probably fitted to give a better spread of light than the ones in the radiator panel gave

interesting looking truck none the less

[JayBoRover]

someone has added those headlights in the wings, they or similar were fitted in many cars in the 60's-early 70's so possibly came out of a scrap car complete

they were probably fitted to give a better spread of light than the ones in the radiator panel gave

interesting looking truck none the less

My 1970 S2A has the same headlight set-up. The inner ones on the radiator panel are high-beam only while the guard mounted ones are dual beams. Mine also now, quite recently fitted:D, has two round spotlights mounted in the bullbar, quite similar to Dave's.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/536.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/12/996.jpg
Cheers
John B

[NiteMare]

it appears you've used late 2a wings Jaybo, whereas the other one appears to have had holes carved in the earlier panels and had car headlights fitted

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Dave

They are regular SII/SIIa military mudguards (not SIII) You'll probably find the correct NOS front panels to replace the ones mutilated by the extra headlamps at the usual suspects. Try a wrecker like LVS or watch ebay or go to car/military swap meets.

John (JayBo...)

It's easy to tell if a civvy LR should have outside headlamps it will have a chassis number suffix "G" or "H" everything before that (outside the USA/Canada*) was cross-eyed!

Diana

* To comply with new licensing laws Land Rovers in the North America Dollar Area had what are called the bug-eye models which is where the headlamp buckets were fitted through existing cross-eyed model panels. They also had the holes in the grill panel blanked out. Interestingly the CJ JEEPs managed to fit within the regs even with standard wheel arch flares.

[kodez23]

Interesting info, As much as I'd like too I doubt I'll be taking this truck back to original state. I like the sort of apocalypto look so I'll probably keep the guard lights, plus I want to keep costs down and would rather spend money on critical mech issues which there will be plenty of. Thanks for the pics of your 2A Jaybo, good inspiration to get mine happening and I'll need a fair bit of inspiration. First inspection of brake master cyl and lines suggest that the whole system will probably need replacing. I'll start pulling it out tonight for a closer look.

Also does anyone know a good supplier of engine hoists in Victoria(around the $300 mark) that will get an engine high enough to remove from a landy? When I bought the 2A the guy threw in a Series 3 lwb for and extra $50. Chassis, diffs, axles etc are rust write-offs but its good up top and has a Holden 202 + Nissan gear box that I need to get out before I pull her to pieces for parts or transfer to new chassis. Any cheap chassis suppliers in Australia?
Cheers,
D.

[JDNSW]

.......
Also does anyone know a good supplier of engine hoists in Victoria(around the $300 mark) that will get an engine high enough to remove from a landy? .........
Cheers,
D.

Does not have to lift higher than an ordinary car if you remove the mudguards and radiator support. Also, you can reduce even this lift by taking the wheels off and lowering it! (Although this means you cannot crawl underneath to undo bolts!)

John

[drifter]

...
Also does anyone know a good supplier of engine hoists in Victoria(around the $300 mark) that will get an engine high enough to remove from a landy? ...

Gasweld in Dandenong South (9799 3188) have them for between $295 and $317 - their catalogue says $317 but their floor price is $295.

They also have engine stands for ~$82