Freeing 2A brakes to get on trailer.

[kodez23]

Just bought my first Landy (2A Ex-Army) and the left hand rear brake is locked on. I need a quick way to unlock it to get it on the trailer to get it home and do a full brake overhaul. Any hints?
The right hand rear wheel is also seems locked but has a bit of of play in it. Is this more likely to be a brake or axle/diff problem.
Cheers,
Dave.

[JayBoRover]

Sounds awfully like a mate that bought a Land-Cruiser ute with a blown rear diff that had locked up. When picked up on a tow truck they simply winched it on using the grunty winch of the tow truck bed. The big problem was when they had to get it off at the other end.

Try jacking the rear up and putting some plastic trays (like McDonalds use for serving trays) and then winch it onto the car trailer. The plastic tray makes it close to frictionless. (Ever seen the idiots sliding around the shopping mall car-parks in the wee hours in front wheel drive cars with the rear wheels on McDonalds trays??)

[Landy Smurf]

^agreed

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Take the offending wheel/s off the drum. Back off the brake adjuster/s fully then hit the around the circumference of the drum with some heavy blows of a lump or similar hammer.

[kodez23]

Cool, thanks guys. I've ordered manuals but haven't received them yet so I'm assuming the brake adjuster is the big bolt next to the bleed nipple? And I turn it anti clockwise to back it out?
Cheers again.
Dave.

[JDNSW]

Cool, thanks guys. I've ordered manuals but haven't received them yet so I'm assuming the brake adjuster is the big bolt next to the bleed nipple? And I turn it anti clockwise to back it out?
Cheers again.
Dave.

Not exactly next to the bleed nipple, but it is the big bolt by itself on the backing plate. Rotate anticlockwise to back off, full motion is less than one turn, when it should reach a stop turning in this direction. This will not release the brake if a cylinder is seized, as is likely, although banging on the drum as suggested may help.

If the problem is a busted diff, as was also suggested, simply remove the drive flanges including half axles - slide out a couple of inches and then replace with at least one bolt once on the trailer to keep dirt out.

John

[kodez23]

The backing plate has two large bolts on the back, one on either side. Are they series 3 backing plates? I tried loosening off both of them but it still won't budge. Any further clues?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Presuming that you got the adjusters (which should feel like little knotches as you turn when nearly tight - turning the other way they should come to a dead stop) and not the cylinder mounting bolts which are right next to the bleed nipple.

If the shoes didn't come off then you need harder blows or a heavier hammer or both.

If they still wont roll, you'll either have to winch it on with a seized wheel or destroy the brake drum.

[kodez23]

Mission accomplished. All drums came off, whole brake system was bone dry. Adjusters used to bring shoes in (with a few taps from the rubber mallet to get them as far as they'd go). Drums back on, vehicle on trailer and home she went. Now sitting in the driveway/vehicle restoration bay (with some outstanding car trailer reversal skill from my mate Colin). Thanks again for the help, I'm sure there'll be more questions yet. Should I ask here about the cheapest source of parts or view/start another thread on that?
Cheers,
Dave.

[JDNSW]

Probably not necessary, but before you do, think carefully whether you really want the "cheapest" parts. Many Series parts come in a variety of qualities, generally (but not always) reflected in the price. I suggest that you will want to get parts from a variety of sources.

John