Thread: Freeing 2A brakes to get on trailer.

Originally Posted by kodez23

Mission accomplished. All drums came off, whole brake system was bone dry. Adjusters used to bring shoes in (with a few taps from the rubber mallet to get them as far as they'd go). Drums back on, vehicle on trailer and home she went. Now sitting in the driveway/vehicle restoration bay (with some outstanding car trailer reversal skill from my mate Colin). Thanks again for the help, I'm sure there'll be more questions yet. Should I ask here about the cheapest source of parts or view/start another thread on that?
Cheers,
Dave.

That's great news Dave. I'm glad it wasn't a seized diff, an empty brake system sounds much easier to deal with!

+1 on the piccies request

Photo as requested, I'll try to take some more some time, I was too busy with logistics to snap a whole bunch. She's got a weird paint job that I actually sort of like. I just want to get her up and running before I worry too much about re-painting her. The headlight setup is odd too, are they Series three front guards on her? I'll get all her details on REMLR when I get time.
Cheers,
Dave.

someone has added those headlights in the wings, they or similar were fitted in many cars in the 60's-early 70's so possibly came out of a scrap car complete

they were probably fitted to give a better spread of light than the ones in the radiator panel gave

interesting looking truck none the less

Originally Posted by NiteMare

someone has added those headlights in the wings, they or similar were fitted in many cars in the 60's-early 70's so possibly came out of a scrap car complete

they were probably fitted to give a better spread of light than the ones in the radiator panel gave

interesting looking truck none the less

My 1970 S2A has the same headlight set-up. The inner ones on the radiator panel are high-beam only while the guard mounted ones are dual beams. Mine also now, quite recently fitted, has two round spotlights mounted in the bullbar, quite similar to Dave's.


Cheers
John B

it appears you've used late 2a wings Jaybo, whereas the other one appears to have had holes carved in the earlier panels and had car headlights fitted

Dave

They are regular SII/SIIa military mudguards (not SIII) You'll probably find the correct NOS front panels to replace the ones mutilated by the extra headlamps at the usual suspects. Try a wrecker like LVS or watch ebay or go to car/military swap meets.

John (JayBo...)

It's easy to tell if a civvy LR should have outside headlamps it will have a chassis number suffix "G" or "H" everything before that (outside the USA/Canada*) was cross-eyed!

Diana

* To comply with new licensing laws Land Rovers in the North America Dollar Area had what are called the bug-eye models which is where the headlamp buckets were fitted through existing cross-eyed model panels. They also had the holes in the grill panel blanked out. Interestingly the CJ JEEPs managed to fit within the regs even with standard wheel arch flares.

Interesting info, As much as I'd like too I doubt I'll be taking this truck back to original state. I like the sort of apocalypto look so I'll probably keep the guard lights, plus I want to keep costs down and would rather spend money on critical mech issues which there will be plenty of. Thanks for the pics of your 2A Jaybo, good inspiration to get mine happening and I'll need a fair bit of inspiration. First inspection of brake master cyl and lines suggest that the whole system will probably need replacing. I'll start pulling it out tonight for a closer look.

Also does anyone know a good supplier of engine hoists in Victoria(around the $300 mark) that will get an engine high enough to remove from a landy? When I bought the 2A the guy threw in a Series 3 lwb for and extra $50. Chassis, diffs, axles etc are rust write-offs but its good up top and has a Holden 202 + Nissan gear box that I need to get out before I pull her to pieces for parts or transfer to new chassis. Any cheap chassis suppliers in Australia?
Cheers,
D.

Originally Posted by kodez23

.......
Also does anyone know a good supplier of engine hoists in Victoria(around the $300 mark) that will get an engine high enough to remove from a landy? .........
Cheers,
D.

Does not have to lift higher than an ordinary car if you remove the mudguards and radiator support. Also, you can reduce even this lift by taking the wheels off and lowering it! (Although this means you cannot crawl underneath to undo bolts!)

John