Stuee's 101 Rebuild

[lardy]

Don't worry stu I paid for a **** load of gear ages ago with the 101 club not a jot

[101RRS]

That is one of the reasons I am no longer a member.

Garry

[stuee]

Hi stuee can i ask where you got the wireing harness.I just looked at the hot rod link they have a 11 circuit kit..I like the look of yours ,Better fuse block.I have looked for the PAINLESS kits but was'nt able to find any..Are they expensive.


Thanks Jason

I got mine from Summit Racing the US.

Painless Performance Trunk Mount Chassis Harnesses 10120 - SummitRacing.com (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-10120)

Ended up being just under $540 with delivery via DHL (avoid i-parcel, I've not heard anything good about it) and I had it at my door in 5 working days. You can get the normal wiring harnesses cheaper elsewhere but not many stock the complete range of Painless Kits and I specifically wanted the trunk mount kit so I could locate the fuse panel away from the dash in the battery box. The trunk mount kit looks to have a $60-70 premium over the normal wiring kits.

Australian based suppliers wanted over $700 for the standard kits, hence why I looked to the US.

[banjo]

I got mine from Summit Racing the US.

Painless Performance Trunk Mount Chassis Harnesses 10120 - SummitRacing.com (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-10120)

Ended up being just under $540 with delivery via DHL (avoid i-parcel, I've not heard anything good about it) and I had it at my door in 5 working days. You can get the normal wiring harnesses cheaper elsewhere but not many stock the complete range of Painless Kits and I specifically wanted the trunk mount kit so I could locate the fuse panel away from the dash in the battery box. The trunk mount kit looks to have a $60-70 premium over the normal wiring kits.

Australian based suppliers wanted over $700 for the standard kits, hence why I looked to the US.

Thanks Stuee i'll check it all out.Thanks again..

[stuee]

Well I just put a rant up on the club forum. It turns out my suspicions about the club prioritising the orders through the new online shop were correct. They also had the nerve to tell those with orders pending not to re-order through the online shop and to wait till they sift through everything then proceed to put a post up explaining that it only took 4 days from when an order was placed to being delivered through the new shop.

Its now been a month since I placed my order and supplied all my details to Darren and I've heard nothing about confirmation of the order, shipping costs or anything like that.

I wouldn't care nearly as much if it was just normal delays but it really irritates me that others can now place an order and have it actioned in under a week while mine is conveniently ignored to process it.

[101 Ron]

The 101 club is not my favorite bunch of people.
There is very little you cannot find or buy locally for a 101 Landrover.
E bay also so turns up some hard to get bits and pieces from time to time.
I now just learn what I can by reading threads on that site when i feel like it.
The UK owners use and operate there 101s very differently to what we do here in OZ and have different out looks as to what a 101 club should be.

[stuee]

Well still no word back from the club on the parts I've ordered. I've done some checking and figured out I can get most parts from John Craddock (better stock than LRSeries.com) excluding some key items like the fuel filler hose, and all the camlocks. The cost difference is around an extra £270 for an order originally costing £770 from the club excluding delivery.

The biggest cost difference is the bearings followed by the clutch and brake reservoirs. The club seems to sell bearings at a very reasonable rate and looking at previous topics here they are not a cheap item to obtain locally. I'm going to see if I can sneak a set through work, otherwise I'll probably bite the bullet after my next pay and place an order for bearings and brakes from a commercial supplier.

Otherwise after spending my last weekend applying texture coat to the back of the house I'm going to try and paint the metal frames that sit behind the cab and house the air box and fuel filler hose.

[101 Ron]

AJ has the cam locks and brake parts.

[stuee]

AJ has the cam locks and brake parts.

I just got Darren over the phone. The guy is seems helpful enough and I've instructed them to just box up and ship what they have in stock and forget the rest. I've been told it will take about a week or two for them to get to my order now and box it up which coincides nicely with my next pay. If its still a no go then Ill get through AJ and JC.

Basically it takes a phone call for them to get to your order atm, which isn't necessarily easy being halfway round the world, nor would you think you'd need to in this day and age.

Otherwise to distract from my incessant whinging here is a pic of my latest ebay win:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/1373.jpg

[DODGE]

Gday Stuee and fellow 101ers

The 101 is comming along nicely.the colour looks good.

Gary:)

[stuee]

Spent some time on the 101 today. Have been working towards getting the battery box ready to mount the electrics.

Work area:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/903.jpg

Re-cutting thread in freshly (last year or year before fresh) galvanised frames:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/904.jpg

What happens when you combine battery acid, aluminium panels, steel battery tray and steel frame:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/905.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/906.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/907.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/908.jpg

Wheel arch panel prior to riveting on:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/909.jpg

Roughly planning out layout:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/910.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/911.jpg

Have chosen the second option for the time being. At present I am going for an N70ZZ size battery. In the second shot above the cotton bud marks out how long it is in the battery tray.

Have been looking at supercharge as I've had a good run with them. The classic model has a 2 year warranty but I'd like a maintenance free model which looks to be the MF95D31L/R. I'm looking at the sealed maintenance free models as theres less likelihood of them spilling acid everywhere. This model has 760CCA vs 660CCA which isn't really an issue with the low compression 3.5 so may even be able to get a smaller battery.

Continuing on, new base plate for the battery box. This will allow me to mount all the electrical items up and still get it all properly painted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/912.jpg

edit**

Frame and panel mounted:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/913.jpg

Its surprising how solid it comes up when all fixed together.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Very shiney, and looks in a lot better state than my project 101 at the moment.

[101 Ron]

Stuee do you want dual batteries for running a fridge or camp lights ????.
I would plan for dual batteries in the standard battery compartment.
The slightly smaller size batteries needed still start the motor very well singlely.
I use two very simple and cheap to purchase battery switches behind the passengers seat to switch on or off any battery, they are compact too.
In the battery compatment I have a fuseable link which supplys power to the main fuse panel on the side of the radiator tunnel at the extremely front of the vehicle inside the cabin.
I can post pics if you want too.
Another thing worth thinking about is jump starting the 101 or other vehicles with the 101.
Access to the batteries for battery charging if you use the 101 non frequently is another thing to think about.
On my 101 I have a 175 amp anderson plug at the rear chassis X member near the tow hook and it has heavy battery cable correctly secured running to the battery isolation switches.
I carry a special jump starter lead with a anderson plug on it.
The anderson plug on the 101 is also used for running any camper trailer electrics if needed and small battery charger clips will attach stiaight on to the anderson plug and this saves climbing up into the cabin and removing the top off the battery box.
The battery box is also a easy spot electrically to fit some cigar lighter/power plugs which can be for use in the cabin or cargo area depending which way you want to face or fit them
Ron

[stuee]

I had thought about dual batteries but disregarded them for a few reasons. First being I really wanted to put the electrics in the battery box with the battery, mounting two batteries uses up just a bit too much real estate (which just rules out putting the second battery in that location). Secondly, I had a dual battery on my discovery but rarely used it. I just didn't get out fishing and camping enough to justify the setup (hopefully that will change with the 101!).

I have had good experiences with power-packs though. Being portable means they are handy to jump start any car (without having to pull the 101 out of hibernation), can be moved around the camp site, and aren't vehicle specific. When I first got the disco when I went camping I just borrowed my dads Waeco branded power pack and that ran the fridge fine as well as having juice to jump start if needed. I'll be looking at either an Ark Power pack or DIY my own battery box.

Ill definitely be running heavy duty cable to the rear of the 101 along with a anderson plug like yourself at some point. The future FIL has a similar setup on his jeep for powering his trailer but also an anderson plug inside which acts as a quick connect to his "modified" Ark power pack with built in Red Arc controller. Quite a convenient setup and when not in use the battery can just stay on a maintenance charge in the shed until its needed next.

[101 Ron]

Here are some pics ........might help you with different ideas.
this a extra cover which hides the fuses on the passengers side of the fan tunnel
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/872.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/873.jpg
This is the anderson plug at rear
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/874.jpg
Same set up on my studebaker, getting the battery trickle charged
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/875.jpg

[stuee]

Thanks Ron. Do you happen to have any pics of your battery box? I'd be keen to see the dual battery setup. Starting to make me think about it more.

I had toyed with the idea of using the spare wheel space to mount the power pack but I'll wait till I have my final tyres and see if it is still a feasible to even mount the spare there.

[101 Ron]

This shows the Two $12 dollar compact battery switch with removable key hidden just out of sight behind the passengers seat.
They take up very little room inside the battery box.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/455.jpg

[101 Ron]

My 101 as I got it had the second battery mounted just in front of the LHS rear wheel and used this as a battery box.
Note the cut out for the winch cable when running it rearwards.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/457.jpg
There is now a tool box fitted in the same place and the extra battery is fitted as per standard 24volt system in the battery box, but the system is 12 volt.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/460.jpg

[101 Ron]

I have taken some fresh pics for you today.
First one is looking towards the engine cover.
I do have some extra wiring and stuff fitted inside the battery box

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/865.jpg
This is looking overhead on the same batttery.
note the lead running from the cig lighter socket.
There is also a european type power outlet near the extingisher too.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/866.jpg

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/863.jpg
the next 2 pics shows I still have pently of room around the other battery mounted on the passenger side of the battery box.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/864.jpg
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/004-10_zpsbdb834ce.jpg

[101 Ron]

This shows another cig lighter out facing rearwards into the cargo area and the one I normally use for the fridge or the light fitted on one of the canvas bows.
The side mounted power outlets in preivous pics I normally use for phone charging or GPS as I tend to throw that sort of stuff on the engine cover on a trip.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/861.jpg
This shows the alloy angle I popped riveted to the top of the battery box cover and allows you to store magazines etc on top without them sliding off.
In my case I have been storing a tree trunk protecter and shackels there and they have not moved.
The alloy angle has some holes drilled in the vertical sides of it for octapuss straps to be hooked into if they needed to be used.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/02/862.jpg

[101 Ron]

I painted to battery box out in tar paint and drilled a few extra drain holes to prevent any corrosion of the alloy.
The space behind the drivers seat and the spare wheel I store the special jumper leads with anderson plug and the air line and air chuck for tyres and I reach in and access this by opening the spare tyre door from the outside of the vehicle.

I currently still running a bar tread as a spare..........I have not worked out away to get the wide muddies in and out easily using the standard spare wheel set up.

[stuee]

Thanks for the pics and info Ron. The more I get into the wiring the more I'm finding to do. As I'm starting to lay things out I'm finding additional bodywork that needs to be completed so I can run cables, extra bits and pieces I need to buy to complete the wiring etc. My decision to buy a fuse panel that's remotely located has introduced its own challenges as I cant simply copy the original layout due to the increased wiring so I have to think very carefully about it all. Finding it all quite fun though.

[Sleepy]

Enjoying watching and learning Stu. Makes me want to strip mine down....(then I stop and think:p). Looks bloody great all the same.

I replaced my fuel filler hose last year. I kept the old one which is perished and has a rip but would be good to use as a template if you could find someone to copy it. May be easier (and cheaper?) than waiting for an original.

Drop me a PM if your interested and I'll send it over.

[stuee]

Thanks for the offer Sleepy. I've got a mangled hose but while the vehicle is stationary I can just fill the tank by tipping a jerry can at an awkward angle. Immersing myself in the electrics is making me forget all the parts problems atm so feeling quite good :p

[101RRS]

Doesn't Anthony Johnson have one - I bought mine off him a while back - I cannot remember what it cost but was reasonable.

[stuee]

Small update, I've ordered a Zeus disc brake conversion kit as per the other thread and canned my order with the 101 club. When I get notification that the kit has been made I will order my bearings, seals and other items from a commercial entity (will try AJ first). I can now officially say I've been screwed by the parts ordering through the club, just glad they never took any of my money like others.

Jess and I had our engagement party over the weekend in our garden which ends about 6 straight weekends of working on the house :eek: After recovering from quite a significant hangover I'm looking forward to relaxing and doing some more work on the 101.

[101 Ron]

I think AJ sells a wheel hub kit which contains new lock tab for the bearing nuts, hub oil seal, flange gasket and new hub cap to go over the axle splines.

[stuee]

I think AJ sells a wheel hub kit which contains new lock tab for the bearing nuts, hub oil seal, flange gasket and new hub cap to go over the axle splines.

Lovely. I'll have to revisit my original order from to the 101 club, remove the brake bits and see what he can supply.

A post has just been put up on the 101 forum saying its a shame I cancelled because my order was about to be shipped... :rocket:

Edit* Does AJ respond to emails or is he best to talk to over the phone. I've only ever spoken to him once before and that was about potentially obtaining a 101 that he was importing (before this one).

[stuee]

Also I had issues finding replacement bulbs for the dash instruments. I have found this website that sells replacement items that use more readily available bulbs for a reasonable price:
Land Rover Spares, Land Rover Parts, Landrover Parts, Landrover Spares (http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/)

[Mick_Marsh]

Lovely. I'll have to revisit my original order from to the 101 club, remove the brake bits and see what he can supply.

A post has just been put up on the 101 forum saying its a shame I cancelled because my order was about to be shipped... :rocket:

Edit* Does AJ respond to emails or is he best to talk to over the phone. I've only ever spoken to him once before and that was about potentially obtaining a 101 that he was importing (before this one).
Emails and phone. Shouldn't be a problem.
I go visit.

[stuee]

Emails and phone. Shouldn't be a problem.
I go visit.

Easy for some :p Will fire him off an email this evening and see what wares he has on offer.

[101 Ron]

I phone AJ and over the years we have gotten to trust each other .
I ask for for the parts.
He freights the parts.
I then send a cheque.
He has new wheel cylinders and brake shoes ( same as long wheel base series 3 landys).
He has kits for the master cylinder (see my thread on this )
Alot of 101 parts will match up with later series 3 or early range rover.

[Sitec]

Spoke to AJ for the first time last week, very pleasant, and organised. Will be talking to him again. Signed onto the 101 UK forum hunting down the for sale advert for my old 101, which was still live, got a reply, then the Administrators locked the post! Asked where it had gone and got a curt reply saying it was an old thread and so it's been locked! Uhhh? So, yeah, I hear ya re the club. Not the first time I've heard this either!! Anyhow, here I am glued to another 101 thread!! The 'Swap' advert went into the correct section an hour ago!!! Stuee, great thread, looking forward to seeing it complete!!! :)

[101 Ron]

Also I had issues finding replacement bulbs for the dash instruments. I have found this website that sells replacement items that use more readily available bulbs for a reasonable price:
Land Rover Spares, Land Rover Parts, Landrover Parts, Landrover Spares (http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/)

I have been able in the past to supply the hard to get dash board globes in 24 volt etc though my parts suppliers for forklifts via a import from Europe.
The problem was it was very, very expensive to do this just for a few globes.
If you get stuck talk to me.
Ron

[stuee]

I have been able in the past to supply the hard to get dash board globes in 24 volt etc though my parts suppliers for forklifts via a import from Europe.
The problem was it was very, very expensive to do this just for a few globes.
If you get stuck talk to me.
Ron

Thanks Ron. I've already received some of the replacement fittings from the dingocroft mob. I need to check they all fit properly, only tried one of the three types of fittings I purchased so far. Ill post up how they go over the weekend, but the quality seems good. Along with the LED's I sourced from RS shown in previous posts all the dash illumination is now sorted. I want to start hooking wires up this weekend :cool:

If anyone's interested the three part numbers I ordered are:
ZZAS614
ZZAS615
ZZAS612
All shown on this page:
Electrical Miscellany Page 2 (http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Electrical_Miscellany-p2.html)

[stuee]

Anyone able to help me with one of the earth lead locations? I've re-made the earth lead that goes between the chassis and battery but as a modified outrigger was welded on I have nfi where the original attached too. The workshop manual gives a rough idea but I'd like to see where the original goes if anyone has any pictures handy.

New earth lead:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/321.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/322.jpg

Its 2B&S cable and should be a bit nicer to use than the old one which is quite heavily corroded and frayed. Just need to source some new p-clamps now.

[101RRS]

Mine is bolted to the body - top left of the panel behind the passenger seat.

Garry

[stuee]

Mine is bolted to the body - top left of the panel behind the passenger seat.

Garry

So does your not bolt to the chassis outrigger below the battery box?

edit*
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/320.jpg

I just ripped this from the workshop manual. I cant tell where abouts on the outrigger it mounts or how its secured up to the battery box. I figure I wont be on the wheel arch side of the outrigger because that would expose it to damage from gravel rash, but then the entry to the battery box is at the top of the wheel arch :confused:. I'm assuming it runs on the inside of the outrigger and up, but not sure how its retained, perhaps through the galv rail then out?

[stuee]

Small amount of work done today and yesterday afternoon. Also heard back from AJ regarding some parts, just waiting to hear back if he can source any others from his suppliers.

A good friend has said he can get me some protective wire wrap through his work. Ill run most wires and fix them temporarily in position before I measure up exactly how much I need and what sizes I need.

Starting to run wiring:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/274.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/273.jpg
The three holes most dash wiring will go through:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1226.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/275.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/276.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/277.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/278.jpg

Also got the bulkhead capping's fitted finally:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/279.jpg

[101RRS]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/03/273.jpg



That top left hole in the capping is where my batteries are earthed.

Garry

[101 Ron]

I have not looked at my 101 yet. but it is earthed in the battery box . most likely what Garry described.

[stuee]

Does the 24V model not earth through the chassis then? If it only earths through the capping I cant see an effective earth to the chassis if all panels are painted properly etc :confused:

[101RRS]

Why does it need to earth to the chassis - just about all electrical connections in the 101 are through the body - basically nothing on the chassis. Engine - starter and alternator is to the body and to prevent static to the radios there are earthing straps everywhere.

Remember you are restoring your vehicle to a much higher standard to what the original vehicle was built. You have painted everything and put sealer between panels etc - originally the thing was just assembled and then painted.

Garry

[chazza]

If it only earths through the capping I cant see an effective earth to the chassis if all panels are painted properly etc :confused:

You can do either path, as long as it is a clean connection at every point where earth straps connect,

Cheers Charlie

[Mick_Marsh]

Stuee, you have a blank canvass. You're not doing a restoration to original. You can make improvements.
If it was me, I'd earth the battery to the motor. The alternator and starter motor are earthed to the motor. You can then earth the chassis and body to the motor.
My second choice would be to earth it to the chassis and make sure the motor is well earthed to the chassis.
Your choice.

Love reading the progress of your build.

[DasLandRoverMan]

My preferred method (on a 101) is to run the main earth cable to one of the bellhousing bolts, then another cable from there onto the chassis.

90% of the time you get electrical contact through the fixings holding everything together, so even with everything painted properly and assembled to avoid corrosion between parts, everything should still work.

If you want to be really anal then place a few earth posts around the vehicle and link them back to the main earth point with some suitably weighted wire.
You should never have electrical problems again.

[stuee]

Thanks for the feedback all. My main earth will be to the chassis, both the parts manual and workshop manual show both the 12 and 24v models with earth leads to the chassis (part PRC1154), and metal p-clips to also earth the body in two locations before the bolt to the chassis. Any electrical parts on my build will either be earthed directly to the chassis or to a body part that has a dedicated earth cable attached to a bare metal section of that part. I'm still trying to figure out how the factory earth lead from the battery to chassis was wired and retained. I will most likely just drill and bolt on a couple of p-clamps.

The stater motor itself also has a dedicated earth lead to the chassis in both models it appears (Part 589471). I have read on the UK forum that many owners no longer have this cable and the starter has been earthing through the body straps for sometime.

Ill take on board the feedback to earth to the engine directly as well, there should be no problem running an additional cable to help with this.

I do see in the parts manual the 24V models have an earth from the shunt box to the gearbox which potentially is helping out a lot.

Through disassembly of what bodywork I had left assembled on the 101 it shows all panels being painted prior to riveting/bolting together (with the obligatory NATO green brushed on afterwards). This is why I find it surprising that there is only an earth to the bulkhead capping, as I don't necessarily agree there will be a good earth through the normal cab fixings, although the amount of rust accelerated due to dissimilar metals on the 101 may be a good argument for it.

[stuee]

I fitted the seats today, this will help clear some space inside where I was keeping them and also make it much more comfortable to do the wiring in the cab.

Painting the seat boxes and rails. I didn't spend a huge amount of time making sure these were perfect as in the next few years Ill probably pull the seats out and replace them with defender or series 3 items.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1545.jpg

The joints between the seat rails/box and the aluminium cabs were real rust traps with the different types of metals so to try and help I've put some seam sealer between the two items and have also used galvanised washers either side.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1546.jpg

Seats finally fitted. It wasn't as straightforward as you might think. Some seat bolts required 2 people to fit up and even then it was a fiddly job, and I also had to clean the lower seatbelt mounting thread in the freshly galvanised cab rails. Ideally I should have cleaned all threads before assembling the body but didn't think to do this so had a very awkward time re-tapping the threads.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/04/1547.jpg

[stuee]

Haven't been doing a huge deal lately. Went down south to Bunker bay for a couple of days relaxing with the fiance which funnily enough seemed to motivate me to get stuck back into the 101 (now that its going to be wedding car and all :p)

What has been done is just minor stuff that will help the electrics get going. First up was clean the front lamp housings which were pretty grubby then give them a coat of paint:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/1089.jpg

Same for the headlight brackets:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/1090.jpg

Lights fitted up. Forgot to take a pic of the new lights and mounts before fitting to the car. They are just Narva 7" lights and their fully enclosed housings.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/1091.jpg
Products (http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/h4-7-178mm-12v-6055w-highlow-beam-free-form-halogen-headlamp-conversion-kit/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=driving-fog-lamps-popup-layout)
Products (http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/64/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=driving-fog-lamps-popup-layout)

Next job is to salvage the brackets off the old relays to make a new mount for the new ones in the same place. Have got something sussed out now, just need to by some nuts and bolts to finish it off. Will post up picks when done. I'm not going to touch the flasher unit, I've seen what they go for so I might test it and if good see if anyone one wants to buy it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/1092.jpg
**Those leads will go off the relay mounts. I have some pins that I can use so I can take the cables straight too them.

Where the relays need to go. Trying to use the original bolt holes to save drilling anymore. The nose cone is already like a bit of swiss cheese!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/1093.jpg

[stuee]

Well, got my first box of parts off AJ today. Can not recommend him highly enough (although all emails were answered by "Anthony and Bev" so they both do a stellar job!!).

Emails were always answered promptly, they gave me clear indications of what they had in stock and when they would get items in, shipping was cheap (especially to WA) and I thought the parts prices were quite competitive. They also had all the parts I was chasing from the 101 club originally. For new owners of 101's skip the hassles and go straight to them.
Land Rover 101 - British 4wd Imports - Home Page (http://101spares.com/)

Now I just have to order my inner bearings off them which they just got into stock and seeing Ron's posts, I'll see what some hub caps are worth too while I'm at it. Stoked to finally get some good service.

New toys:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/560.jpg

[101 Ron]

AJ has a great deal of helpful info on the 101s and when I had my Defender I found he was very good on parts for it too
Ron

[101RRS]

Land Rover 101 - British 4wd Imports - Home Page (http://101spares.com/)



I wouldn't pay much attention to his website as I don't think it has been amended in a few years - always best to give Bev a call.

[DODGE]

Gday Stuee The 101 is looking great, the hard work is paying off.i think it would make a great wedding car;). i also have bought a few things from bev and aj and have found them to be very helpful. keep up the good work. im taking the old girl out for a run today to clean out the cobwebs.:D

Gaz

[stuee]

Looks like a perfect day to go for a drive too! Very jealous :D I'll be out working on mine today. Cleaning and painting parts this morning, inspecting the front diff this arvo if all goes well.

[bigbadwolf1966]

WOW,
You, sir are inspiring.
I've just read through all the progress of your project. Beautifully done sir.
very impressive.
I wish you well, and look forward to seeing future progress.
keep up the fantastic job.:)

[stuee]

Finished off a bit more this weekend, and planning to finally open the diff up for a look tomorrow seeing as I have the day off (WA Day - where we plan our succession :wasntme:)

I cleaned up some bits since the tarp I had covering my pile of bits has torn itself up so with winter coming I thought I best get some of the more important bits cleaned and painted.

First up the air cleaner, what it looked like before:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1475.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1476.jpg

After a clean and few coats of paint:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1477.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1478.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1479.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/57.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1480.jpg

[stuee]

Next up was the heater matrix box. I would have tackled the heater blower as well but I couldn't get the fan off the shaft to disassemble it so it went back on the shelf (out of the rain) along with a dummy spit.

The heater matrix was in a pretty shabby state, the core itself was fine but the box was terrible. What it was like:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1467.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1468.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1469.jpg

After some TLC:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1470.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1471.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1472.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1473.jpg

[stuee]

Opened the diff up and its not looking good. Structurally its fine but there is a lot of rust. The whole assembly rotates fine but I'm not sure where to proceed from here. Reading up on it now. Basically it looks like the options are either pull it out and clean everything and reassemble or clean it out in situ, re-oil, run, drain, re-oil until clean etc.

Looking at the workshop manual, i would need a spreader to get the diff assembly out, otherwise it looks straight forward to pull out. I don't have the tools or knowledge to completely disassemble the diff if that's required, and unfortunately, not the money at the moment either :(.

Pics:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1392.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1393.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1394.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1395.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1396.jpg

[stuee]

Thinking about it now I don't see how the bearings cant be shagged. Cleaning some of the rust off leaves a small bit of pitting, that sort of pitting on the bearings cant be a good thing to ignore.

Looking at some of the old threads on here about removing the diff. Seen Ron's home made spreader but there's also mention that careful levering will get it out. Need to get the hubs and CV's out first.

Going to have a look at the back now too as I cant see how that wont be in the same state:(

*edit Back diff is fine :D It still had oil in so only a tiny bit of surface rust up the top of the diff housing and cover. Will clean it right up and put the cover back on. With this and the fact that the discs and hubs haven't been shipped for my disc brake conversion yet I'm going to put my attention to the back axle instead and get that finished. I will sit on the front for a while to think about how to best tackle it.

[wrinklearthur]

Have a look at the halfshafts' splines for any signs of fretting, if there as been water in the diff and the vehicle as been running like that for a while.

A watermark you can get away with for a while, but pitting will soon lead to the bearing chattering, then collapsing.
.

[Homestar]

I would get it pulled apart and everything in a molasses bath for a while. That will clean everything up and show you jaw much (if any) damage there is. Apart from new bearings, I think it would be fine.

Get it cleaned up now, then worry about getting it back together later. You don't want the rust to progress any further than it is.

[101 Ron]

I if was mine I would.
drop the diff centre out ( you will not need a spreader, just a pry bar and lever the centre out.)
To drop the centre out you need to disassemble the front brakes, remove the C/V housings which require removing the 2 upper and lower bolts on the C/V housing which hold the C/V into the swivel bearings, remove the C/V housing wiper seals( bolts on around the inside of the C/V).
The whole C/V housing will fall away exposing the C/v joint itself.
Pull the C/V out of the axle tube and inner diff with the drive axle.
Doing the above removes the drive axle from the diff centre so it can be removed.
I found a old pillow a good thing for the diff centre to fall out on to.
It sounds difficult , but is easy when you get into it.
Doing the above is a perfect time to fit the disc brakes.
I suspect the bearings will be shagged.
The diff centre carrier bearings are straight forward, but the pinion bearings will need looking at , that job is abit more difficult.
Pray the crown wheel is OK as the replacement is abit pricey....but advailable.
Looks if the moisture that has been in the diff housing is though storage?????
The 101 diffs do like to suck in water due to the small breather banjo bolt that blocks up and the leaky C/V and diff seals.
Clean up the inside of the diff abit and bearing blue the gear contact pattern, as the marks you get before dropping the centre out are the same marks you need to get on the reassembled diff.

Excellent time to do a ARB locker too.
For pics go though the old threads and find my front ARB locker fitting thread.

I only needed a diff spreader because I was taking the diff centre in and out a lot to set up the diff lockers.
Garrycol should be helpful as he had some problems with rubbish in one of his diffs.

[stuee]

Thanks for the advice fellas. For the time being I soaked it all in WD40 to displace any water. As I turned the axle I did notice a reasonable amount of condensation start to bead and run. I assume it is only from storage because where there isn't rust it looks immaculate.

I'll pull it out and get it cleaned up, in the mean time I need to wait till next pay for the bearings (damn weddings - still haven't been able to buy the inner bearings for the hubs either). I'd love to do an air locker now but just don't have the money.

Replacing the breather fittings with some straight through ones was on my to do list. Was going to do it after inspecting the centre with the cover off. Glad I did find the problem now before the disc conversion, otherwise I'd have to pull it all back out again :eek:

Ill come back and ask you some more questions about it Ron when I come to it. Specifically the bearing blue, is this just to see how the teeth currently mesh? If so I dont know how I would adjust it if I put it back and it wasnt the same. Would pull it back out and make it 2wd until I could send it to a specialist :p Or is that only applicable if I pull the pinion out too?

[slug_burner]

If I was buying it I would steer away from it or want it fixed before paying but If I owned it it would be WD40 and more WD40. Give it a good clean out and see what it looks like. It takes a bit for rust to set into bearings, you might get a discolouration but it will take a bit to get pitting happening due to rust. I would keep the thing going until funds are available after doing the other bits you want done.

[Homestar]

Just another thought on cleaning it up. As mentioned, molasses is very good. Why not just pour a molasses mix into the diff housing and let it all soak in there or a while. You have to pull it apart at some stage, so you could rinse everything then...

[Mick_Marsh]

Just another thought on cleaning it up. As mentioned, molasses is very good. Why not just pour a molasses mix into the diff housing and let it all soak in there or a while. You have to pull it apart at some stage, so you could rinse everything then...
Not a good idea.
When you take the bits out of the molasses solution, you have to clean them real quick. This might prove difficult in the axle housing.

[101 Ron]

The idea to bearing blue the gear teeth before disassembling the diff is to see how well the diff teeth are in adjustment and how they are wearing.
A diff which has been quiet and working well, but is found to be not set up right ( the contact pattern not totally correct) would most likely be better off being set up the same on reassembly, as if it was set back to factory spec gear contact pattern it would come noisey as the gear teeth have worn in a certain way previously.
If the diff centre carrier bearings are just only replaced, it would be most likely nothing would change with the diff set up and contact pattern, bearing blue on reassembly will confirm this.
Crown wheel and pinion backlash should also be checked with a dial guage too.
Yes true diff set up is best left to people who have had experience in the field as it can come expensive if you get it too wrong.


I may add the big gripes about ARB air lockers leaking internally is usually though improper set up of the diff concerned( a lot tend to be fitted by the owners) and any play in carrier bearings( preload) or incorrect set up ,etc will result in leaking O rings.

[stuee]

Not too much to update. Just though I'd put a bit up here after looking at bacicat's thread.

Finally have all of my disc brake conversion after a number of phone calls and emails to the UK. The quality of the kit does look good.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1223.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1224.jpg
Don't know why its got "UK only" written on it. I suspect I hounded them enough so that I got the next kit off the assembly line.

I've progressed further on the battery base and fuse panel location:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1225.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1226.jpg

Not entirely happy with my makeshift grommet so will keep my eye out for a better solution.

Keeping relays in the same place, only the new type and more of them:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1227.jpg

The dash part assembled so I can plan out my wiring. You can see my cheap ebay o-ring around the left hand gauge. I couldnt find any square cut o-rings and the vendor sent the wrong size so this will do until I get a better one. I cut one o-ring in half so it has a u profile instead of a circular profile to act as a seal between the glass and the retainer ring on the left hand gauge as well. For whatever reason the right hand gauge rubbers were in good condition so I have re-used them.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1228.jpg

Back diff looked good. Oil was milky but condition of the doff was good overall:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1229.jpg

The front diff is looking better after flooding it with WD40 all week. It looks to be washing the rust away and the urge to be lazy is kicking in (at least till after its on the road). A catastrophic failure will mean it would only make economic sense to put an air-locker back in wouldn't it?? :twisted:

[slug_burner]

While the diff housing is open squirt the parts with WD40 and use a brass brush to help get rid of the orange residue. Roll the wheels to turn the diff over and give it more squirting and brushing. If the surfaces of the crown gear is not pitted then I would give it another soaking in WD40 followed by some oil. Then just listen for noise, I doubt you will get a catastrophic failure. If the bearings are pitted then you will get bearing rumble and you will know it is time for a bearing service.

[stuee]

Have been motivated by watching Gav's progress on his electrical work so started on the dash today:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/792.jpg

[Sitec]

Looking good Stuee!! Making me envious!! That diff looks a whole lot better too!! You might just get away with carrier bearings!! Looking forward to the finished result, keep up the good work! My turn soon..... ;)

[Homestar]

Just noticed you have a plate over the spot the oil temp gauge goes. Was that only fitted to some of them?

[stuee]

Just noticed you have a plate over the spot the oil temp gauge goes. Was that only fitted to some of them?

That's the cover off the original oil temp gauge. I have a new one from John Craddock (via eBay) that I'll fit up once the dash is fitted and tested. I put it there to try and stop dust and crap collecting behind the glass after I cleaned and touched it up. My intention is to get both my original water temp gauge and oil temp gauge repaired at some point in the future. For the time being I have fitted a series 3 electrical temp gauge which is a straight fit.

[Mick_Marsh]

Just noticed you have a plate over the spot the oil temp gauge goes. Was that only fitted to some of them?
Well spotted. Could be a series instrument cluster.

[stuee]

One pain with the standard fuel gauge and using a series 3 electronic temp gauge is the need for a 10V Voltage Stabiliser (I believe the 24V models don't need this with their fuel tank sender).

I have found this neat solution which rips the guts out of the standard voltage stabiliser and replaces it with a 7810 regulator.
How To: Replace Your MGB Thermal Voltage Stabilizer (http://www.britishv8.org/articles/mgb-voltage-stabilizer.htm)

The case itself makes a nice heat-sink as well as a convenient ground location. Will be doing this over the weekend if I can source the 7810 regulator.

[stuee]

Although it doesn't seem like much I got quite a bit done this weekend. Made up my 10V electronic regulator, repaired my 6-way switch and finished off quite a bit of the dash wiring.

I sourced my regulator from RS
RS part number 6616702
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/linear-voltage-regulators/6616702/'searchTerm=6616702&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6 265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C267 06D3D5E5C647B367D247C5E5C647B377D247C5E5C647B31307 D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5 F4E554D424552267573743D363631363730322677633D4E4F4 E4526

Although the link I posted before says to gently pry back the tabs holding the top on I found there's really no space for gently. It might be because I was modifying an original Smiths item where as the link looked like an aftermarket unit. The internals of the original voltage stabiliser:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/273.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/274.jpg

Regulator mounted and fixed to the top cover:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/275.jpg

Closed back up and you would push to tell its not original if the tabs were a bit softer:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/276.jpg


I had most the dash done and started testing things and I found that the 6-way switch was not working as advertised. I was a bit miffed as this was the third time I pulled it out. The reason it wasnt working is pretty obvious:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/277.jpg

After a cleanup its apparent that some of the power supply rail has corroded/burnt away:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/278.jpg

The springs that push against the contacts were also naffed:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/279.jpg

After a tricky repair I managed to "replace" some of the rail with ground down solder and wire. No idea how long it will last but its reasonably straight forward to pull apart and now I know how to fix it the next one should be pretty quick.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/280.jpg

Was lucky to score some springs from the hobby shop to cut up and replace the corroded broken ones. For reference for anyone interested in getting some before attempting to rebuild the switch they are 2.5mm x 12mm.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/281.jpg

Back together and its working wonderfully now. Not just if I push the knob a certain way or on some settings only:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/282.jpg

The current state of the dash. My wiper switch should arrive from ebay this week (generic rotary two speed with washer function), and I need a spot light switch yet too. For the spot lights and dash lights switches I'm going to look for the lucas type switches so it keeps the right look and feel. I'm not bothering with a dimmer switch of any sort, too much work and the back lighting is crap anyway even with the new fittings.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/283.jpg

[stuee]

Got all 4 wisdom teeth pulled out today so feeling dandy atm, well I will be till I run out of drugs :(

There's only so much TV I can watch before I need a break so I snapped some shots of the completed dash wiring (all plugs hooked up) and the cable labels that I printed out at work for all the additional cables that I have run so far on the dash. All cables that came as part of the wiring kit have the cable name and number printed about every 40cm which is very handy. Not sure if I said it before but ended up going the basic automotive connectors over weather proof ones. They are a LOT cheaper :eek:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/85.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/86.jpg

[stuee]

As per this thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/177298-101fc-hand-brake.html


I have been working towards getting the hand brake functioning:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/100.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/101.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/102.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/103.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/104.jpg

While soaking the hand brake I also took the opportunity to soak the heater valve to get it apart. It was also seized solid and I had purchased a new one so just needed the ends and the metal bracket. After soaking the valve though is started working very nicely and actually feels nicer than the new one so I gave it a good clean and have just coated it in clear coat to hopefully keep the nice brass finish.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/105.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/106.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/107.jpg

I just need to track down some joint washers and sealing washers now.

[stuee]

Well not had any luck finding the seals I need. Plumbing shop was no go and same with bunnings. If any ones knows please let me know.
My restored heater valve:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1507.jpg

A link to a very tidy valve with seals, courtesy of Peter P. Will be sending him a PM after this to see if he can help :)
LR101FC - Progress July 2009 (http://users.comcen.com.au/~peterp/LR101FC%20Progress/Jul09/content/IMG_7603_large.html)

Otherwise dash and demister vents in. Dont know how long the vents will last for as the fiberglass is getting weak so may look at making some new ones up in the future.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1508.jpg

Plenty of space for wiring:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1509.jpg

Pretty obvious where I would run the cables if I didn't have the connectors to allow me to remove the dash. Almost unfortunate as it would have been very neat.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1510.jpg

[Sitec]

Fantastic looking resto here, and such good clarity in the photos! Keep up the good work!! Mine is soooo far away from there!!!! :( Ah, well, back to welding the new bottom on my tank! :)

[stuee]

Finally got into the hubs this weekend after procrastinating for a long time. First time I've ever pulled a hub down so was pretty pleased by the end of today with my progress.

When I did finally crack the seals oil came out so was happy with that, means it wasn't going to be a rusted out mess like the front diff.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1435.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1436.jpg


Condition of the bearings is great and its likely I'll only have to put new seals in.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1437.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1438.jpg

Everything getting a clean:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1439.jpg


Lots of thick oil down the bottom of the swivel. I thinned it out about and put through some fresh oil to try and get as much nasty stuff out as possible. Be nice for those with mobile 101's as you could just take it for a drive to mix it up and get it all warm and thin.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1440.jpg

The now discarded drum back plate.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1441.jpg


Primed parts waiting for a final top coat. I actually quite like the red primer colour but will be painting it black to hide the future oil stains.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1442.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1443.jpg

[Disco Muppet]

Fantastic thread, you've done a fantastic job so far and it will look brilliant once finished :)

That oil is about the same colour as the one dripping from my TC.... :eek: :D
Nice work dude.
Cheers
Muppet

[chazza]

Nice work Stu!

That photo of the bearings - is it my imagination, or is the one in the background discoloured? If so it will need replacing,

Cheers Charlie

[stuee]

I'll have to check when I get home tonight. It could be the light in the photo. I don't actually recall noticing any colour on the bearings except for the oil left on them.

I take it the most likely cause of colouration like that would be overheating due to lack of lubrication? I did have to apply a bit of heat from the outside of the hub where the seal runs so I could get the old seal collar out without gouging the hub, perhaps too much got in and got to the bearing?? Was only a MAP gas torch. Be just my luck :(

[101 Ron]

Stuee
If you have gone that far you should go ahead and pull out the
C/V and axle and replace the small seal in the diff axle tube which stops the diff and C/V oils transferring.......the seal is cheap from a local bearing supplier.
part Nos........PBR TC12107 .....5032
Check my ARB thread........http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/76403-arb-diff-lock-10.html


http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/DSCF0585.jpg

[101 Ron]

I just realised you have put the bearing spindel shaft back on to the C/V housing.........still not too late to take it apart again and do it.

[chazza]

I take it the most likely cause of colouration like that would be overheating due to lack of lubrication? (

Quite possibly, or else too much pre-load when they are installed. Don't forget to pack them with grease when they go back in,

Cheers Charlie

[stuee]

Spindle is only back on so I don't get paint on the mating surfaces. Is it a big deal if the axle leaks through to the CV and vice versa? Easy way to top up the swivel housings if I dont drill and tap a new filler hole similar to yours :p I'm thinking the seal is still good anyway because my axle housing was bone dry and CV still full.

If it is naffed its a good excuse to pull it apart later and put an air-locker in :twisted: I may even see if AJ has any more side gears in stock to stash away for the future.

PS. That is a great thread to put in our new bible!

[stuee]

Was looking at the bearings today after giving the hub bits a final coat of paint and the color is no where near as pronounced as in the photos. They do have a coat of wd40 to stop any rust forming in the mean time so that could be playing with the light too. Will give them a very thorough clean before re-assembly to check them out. I have spare bearings but these look to be in great condition otherwise.

[stuee]

Well after the sales pitch by Garry and DasLandRoverMan I now have a Detroit on the way. As mentioned in the Aussie 101 thread ARB's are now essentially available on request from AJ so will keep this in mind with the front diff.

Tomorrow I will be dropping all the final hydraulic bits that need an overhaul off to get quoted and if I can pick myself up off the ground after they will stay there to get made new and improved with stainless sleeves.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1083.jpg

Otherwise tomorrow I also plan to get myself a dial gauge and re-assemble the front drivers hub and disc brake kit, and give the front diff a final clean before refilling with oil. Will really get into it again with a brush and rag to clean as much crap as possible out.

Not sure whats next out of the driveline. After reading others install attempts with the Detroit it sounds like its better off leaving it to an expert so may just start on the rear hubs and order some extra seals so it can be pulled down again to get the Detroit put in later.

[101RRS]

After reading others install attempts with the Detroit it sounds like its better off leaving it to an expert

Huh :confused:

Not sure what you have been reading but a detroit can be put in the back with no real mechanical experience in about 3 or 4 hours.

Easy peasy.

Garry

[stuee]

Huh :confused:

Not sure what you have been reading but a detroit can be put in the back with no real mechanical experience in about 3 or 4 hours.

Easy peasy.

Garry

When I read your thread I thought you said you took it too a mechanic to get it setup! I must go back and read it again properly! :o

[Sitec]

If and when my 4.7:1's turn up, I'll be fitting the Detroit in the next few weeks.. Will give you some pics, but as said before, its not hard to do. :)

[stuee]

Yeh I was reading it last night and got to the below post and sort of stopped there. If I'd read more carefully I would have realised it only needs to go to the specialist if the pinion bearing was removed and played with.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/91943-detroit-back-101-a.html#post1109370

I take it provided only the differential comes out it should go back in exactly the same way. Coming with the diff are two new bearings and shims. Ron's got some helpful posts a few pages back about using bearing blue to confirm the diff is the same on re-assembly. I guess if the pattern made in the bearing blue is completely different I know then to take it to the specialist.

[101RRS]

When I read your thread I thought you said you took it too a mechanic to get it setup! I must go back and read it again properly! :o

Not me, I did my own - there is nothing to set back up with the detroit - remove diff - put in the detroit and reinstall - there is more to it but that is the executive summary.

Garry

[101 Ron]

Rule of thumb.
Detroit is easy do at home stuff........rear diff.
ARB is a lot lot harder............ front diff

[wrinklearthur]

there is more to it but that is the executive summary.

:lol2:

.

[stuee]

About $1085 to get all that lot in the picture overhauled, stainless sleeves etc. Most expensive item was the booster, otherwise all the costs seem quite reasonable.

They charge $6 per flare if I want them to sort my flares out too. That means a $100 tool would get me 16 quality flares. Something to think about. Need to pull all the old pipes out and figure out the layout so I can make up new ones.

[chazza]

They charge $6 per flare if I want them to sort my flares out too. That means a $100 tool would get me 16 quality flares. Something to think about. Need to pull all the old pipes out and figure out the layout so I can make up new ones.

Buy yourself a flarer - don't forget that you can do fuel lines, as well as domestic plumbing with the thing and if you ever damage a pipe you can replace it at your leisure. Plus it can be used on the next Rover when the 101 is finished :D

Cheers Charlie

[DasLandRoverMan]

Flaring tools are worth having there's around 30 pipe flares required on a 101 anyways (brake and clutch from master to cylinders) so it's worthwhile, and its a handy facility to have on hand.

The Detroit is and easy fit, I managed it within Garry's timescale, which included and hour or so removing a halfshaft after a bolt sheared, an interesting situation eventually resolved with a 4 foot crow bar an a 5 ton bottle jack.

The resulting bang when it finally let go was pretty impressive, as was the distance the halfshaft travelled, out of the axle and about a foot across the floor.

[stuee]

Didn't get a huge amount done today. Slept most of the afternoon as I'm still recovering from a chest infection. The following was the only progress I made:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1086.jpg

Pretty much a whole bottle of loctite to fit the studs.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1087.jpg

[101RRS]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1083.jpg



Do you appreciate that the fluid reservoir that you have is not standard and maybe not actually be legal on a dual circuit system where individual reservoirs are required.

The 101 has two individual reservoirs, one of which (the rear brakes) has a separate internal clutch reservoir.

Garry

[stuee]

Yeh realise its not standard. Didn't realise it may be illegal. Internally its separated into different sections, the center outlet is separated by the outer two by a half height cylinder sort of thing so not all three outlets can drain at once.

The genuine items cost a fortune and I'm not a fan of some of the alternatives I've seen so far so considering keeping this for the time being.

I quite like the look of these though:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1082.jpg

Except is says "For racing use only" :(

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-72-576
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-72-577

[Sitec]

Like that reservoir! Why would it not be legal.... You'll just have to race everywhere!!! :D

[Homestar]

A file would soon have that wording removed on the side of that reservoir...:D

[stuee]

Be a shame to scratch such a nice looking piece of kit. Maybe a simple dymo label over the top of it with front, rear and clutch for when it goes over pits, then pull it back off again :p

Again not a great deal done today. I moved a council planted tree on our verge about 1.5m so we can still fit a car on the verge. Then thought while I'm all grubby Ill give the front diff the final clean. Did that and got it looking quite nice then put the cover on and filled it with oil. Forgot to get pics before I put the cover on though.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1064.jpg

Then I packed the front hub bearings with grease, fitted the seal. Haven't adjusted the preload with my shiny new dial gauge. Will get to that next weekend.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/1065.jpg

Also have to think about how I am gong to modify the calipers to fit. I don't have a die grinder and its a bit much for the dremel. Could use the grinder but not sure if the sparks may pit other parts of the caliper. A die grinder would have been useful a few times now and probably on a few occasions to come still but would be at least $150-200 outlay for die grinder and burr piece it seems. Might see if I can mark them up and get someone in the workshop at work do it for me.

[101 Ron]

A large rat tail file will work on the calipers and plently of elbow grease.
You don't need a dial guage.........when I was doing it I was just checking disc run out just for the hell of it.
Adjust wheel bearings as you would for a normal light truck by feeling the slight preload when doing up the bearing nut........spin the hub around afew times and recheck.

[stuee]

A large rat tail file will work on the calipers and plently of elbow grease.
You don't need a dial guage.........when I was doing it I was just checking disc run out just for the hell of it.
Adjust wheel bearings as you would for a normal light truck by feeling the slight preload when doing up the bearing nut........spin the hub around afew times and recheck.

Elbow grease is often missing from my tool kit :p

Having never put a hub back together I'm not sure what the 'feel' should be so I figure by using dial gauge this time round I'll get a 'feel' for what it should be.

I'm pretty happy with how its going so far though :)

edit* was just thinking then. Having seen your pics and having a look myself I could quit easily get the bulk of the material off with a hacksaw and neaten up with a file or the dremmel.

[101 Ron]

Do not use a dial guage to adjust wheel bearings.
Adjust as follows.
Find a suitable spanner........a very large shifter will fit onto a 101s hub nut.
Tighten the nut up not too hard but enough so you can really feel the excessive drag on the wheel bearing when you turn the hub by hand.
This over tightening will ensure the cups and bearings are settled in hard.
Back off the nut and then slowly do it up again, take the play out of the bearings and then you add a slight preload, which you should be able to feel if you turn the hub.
If the hub spins freely with no resistance.....not enough.
if hub is hard to turn .....too much.
You want a nice easy turn with just a slight drag.
Many people have different opinions on how to adjust wheel bearings and how to do it.
It is some thing which mechanics just get to learn the feel for.
The dial guage is something you use to check the disc for run out if the disc faces on the back of the hub are not true........you do not need this .

[101 Ron]

Elbow grease is often missing from my tool kit :p

Having never put a hub back together I'm not sure what the 'feel' should be so I figure by using dial gauge this time round I'll get a 'feel' for what it should be.

I'm pretty happy with how its going so far though :)

edit* was just thinking then. Having seen your pics and having a look myself I could quit easily get the bulk of the material off with a hacksaw and neaten up with a file or the dremmel.

A 4 inch electric angle grinder with work very well too and then tidy up with files.

[stuee]

Sounds okay. I was just going off the workshop manual previously where it tells you how to set the end-float with one.

What you've put down sounds easy enough though.

[101RRS]

Of course you shouldn't need to modify the brakes to make them fit, they should be right from the manufacturer. I find Zeus a horrible company and given their service should really not be in business. It is a shame no one else makes the brakes for the 101 or I would be recommending them over Zeus any day.

[101 Ron]

taking a small amount out of the calipers is not that big a deal.

[stuee]

Picked the below up today:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/08/58.jpg

Thats a detroit in the bag in case you didn't guess. Going to have a crack at fitting it this weekend. Just need to make a bit of space to let me get access to the rear axle.

[101 Ron]

The Detroit has a threaded rod and wing nuts going though it.
What ever you do, don't undo it until its fitted, or you will be very sorry that you did.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Read the instructions and don't take the retaining bolt out until everything's securely bolted up in the carrier.

It's funny seeing someone do it, but it's a **** to go it all back together.

[stuee]

Yeh I had a look through the manual and saw a press being used to get the spring back in. Definitely looks like it could cause some brown trousers if it caught you unaware.

[stuee]

Well not such a successful day. Managed to break my 3/8th flex handle trying to undo the last diff carrier bolt, not long after busting my knuckle on the same nut. Thankfully I was wearing glove so not too bad just ****** now that I've broken a tool and got a sore finger.

Now going to have to borrow my dads 1/2 set tonight along with his breaker bar to get it undone, might even visit the auto stores and see if there's any good fathers day specials. Means the detroit wont get done today :mad:

Otherwise brakes look in better condition on the back, on one side the drum has various chunks missing from the mud guard but overall it looks pretty good. Minimal wear on the pads and drum. Will pull everything off, clean and paint the backing plates, new slaves in, and may just keep the current pads.

Will also inspect the rear hubs while I'm at it. Now I've done most of the work sorting access and making it easy to get at hopefully Ill be able to knock off quite a bit off next weekend.

[Sitec]

I hear you!!!! Have finally just finished all the weekends jobs, tree felling, mowing, paddock slashing, neighbours block slashing, etc etc and thought, I'll grab a beer and get into the workshop and weld the ends up on the new tanks.... Well, it was not to be this weekend.. Pull the trigger and do 30mm of weld and I'm out of wire!!! After the initial cursing, I borrow a neighbours roll. Off we go again. This time we get 300mm done and the gas runs out!! That's it!! I'm done. Now on third beer!!! :p��

[stuee]

3ft breaker bar from the old boy and a $99 40-piece 1/2" Stanley Socket set from supercheap got that bugger sorted. Now having my own beers to celebrate after the cracking of a single bolt - didn't even pull it out... might have been a long day at work too :angel:

When I heard the crack as the bolt freed up I did wet myself a bit. I've heard sounds like that before when the heads snap off bolts. last thing I wanted was to be trying to extract a stud from the diff housing.

Might try and drop the diff out if I get home at a reasonable hour through the week.

[stuee]

Well having a crack at pulling the diff today and so far no luck. Levering off the crown wheel bolts for one side and the diff bolts that hold the two halves together and not budged an iota. Wrecking bar behind the crown wheel bolts is flexing nicely, and my large screwdriver on the other side looks as if its going to break. Also tried above and below the diff body.

Any suggestions to easily lever the diff out?

Going to have to go and buy a thor hammer to put it back in by the looks of things, doubt my nylon or rubber mallets are going to cut it if its this hard to get out.

[Sitec]

Bigger bar? :wasntme: If you were nearer you could borrow my spreader... the one I made but never used as all my Salisbury centers have been loose enough to pull out! Sooooo, on a different note, have you a deadline to get yours on the road.....? How does Melrose next year sound?? We've hopefully got a good selection of 'Team Victoria' coming over, and prob some from NSW.... :). Keep up the good work.. Following with interest!!

[stuee]

March 8 is my deadline to have it on the road and registered so I can drive it to my wedding.

Post wedding I'll probably be working 6 days weeks preparing for a major shutdown at work so hopefully 2015 I can take it a few places.

The 101 only had 27k on the odo, so I assume due to the low number of kilometers its still pretty tight. I'm pretty set on making a spreader now, they aren't all that hard to make I would of had a go today accept bunnings charges crack pipe money for steel and no where else is open. Will try and raid the workshop at work on Monday to see if I can find anything. In the meantime I'll get back to pulling the hubs down so I can sort out the rear brakes.

[stuee]

I've also been working on the clutch pedal box over the past couple of weeks. I'm going to attempt to get the clutch hydraulics sorted first before moving onto the brakes.

Searching through my pictures I don't appear to have taken a picture of the pedal box before I cleaned it up but its a massive improvement over what it was. Pedal action is lovely ans smooth and it looks pretty sharp.

Now I'm just deciding if I paint the fixing bolts black to contrast with the bodywork.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1374.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1375.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/1376.jpg

[Sitec]

I still can't get over the clarity of your photos!! They are brilliant! I should probably invest in a decent camera and not rely on an Ipad! Looking at those bolts, you'll probably have to do something with them as given time they will rust and leave run marks below them on your paint.. Stainless would look the part, but given the job you are using them for, its prob not an option.. I think they'd be too brittle. If your bumper and grille are going black, then I think they'd look fine black too.. (I'm using Satin Black on my bumper, grille, hinges tanks, wheel steps etc..) Keep up the good work! Love your deadline reason too!!! If you get stuck nearer the time, call... Can see an AULRO adventure in the making!! :)

[stuee]

I've been using galv washers in an attempt to slow down corrosion but I have painted a few bolts before for the cab. Problem was I was wanting to get this in to see some progress and didn't want to wait 48 hours for two coats of paint to dry. I have bought myself a few model brushes and tin of satin black, I was thinking towards the end I can go over the cab and paint whats needed. Otherwise they can get a coat of clear coat.

The camera I use is a Panasonic Lumix LX5, basically a high end point and shoot. It does give lovely shots but my 1st camera, a Cannon IXUS 870 was pretty much just as good when there was plenty of light about but in low light conditions the LX5 is much better thanks to its F2.0 lens.

I'm making good progress on my deadline but I need to make sure I keep going on it and not leave it idle. I have most of the bits I need now too so hopefully I don't need to put too many more $$$ in. Just the final paint and tyres being the next big ticket items.

[Sitec]

There's a guy on the 101 Club forum has a set of Michelin 900x16 XCL'z for sale ATM.... They are the right money for what they are, and would look good on your truck.. I ran them on my last 101 and they worked well. Shipping thru Maru cost me under $1000 for a large engine and box, so would have to be half that for 5 tyres! Just an idea...

[stuee]

Dont have the dosh for the tyres at the moment. May end up even regoing on the existing tyres at this rate. That and that person is only selling to club members.

Calling it quits on the diff locker until I get the 101 back on the road. I've spent three weekends now working at it and no luck. My Mk1 diff spreader flexes too much and needs more reinforcing, already spent most of this morning knocking that together and not making any progress so will push on. At the end of the day its not that big a deal to pull the axles to fit it in the future. Crunch time is approaching and with three other weddings to go to in the next month and no time to work on the 101 after work its going to start getting tight :mad:

[stuee]

And this is the next lot of items that will be cleaned and painted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/930.jpg

[stuee]

Camping got canned due to bad weather so its been put off for 2 weeks.

Spent this morning cleaning up the above items and just applied the first coat of paint. The pedal box is only getting spray cans as it gives a nicer finish. I'm using up the rust kill from the paint tins on the drive-line bits because I wont be looking at them closely. They'll end up with a thicker coating but not sure if that will necessarily translate to more durable. One item I wish I had in the car port is a tap and hose. Degreasing items is difficult as I have to take them up the other side of the house and as that's all accessible by the dog I don't like to do it there. Makes cleaning parts a long messy process.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/670.jpg

[Sitec]

Camping getting canned.... That's more time for 101 work!! Deadline to meet!! :D

[stuee]

I went to mount the brake pedal assembly and realised that as soon as that goes in its going to be a nightmare to run wires so that last two days I've been hammering out the electrical work under the dash - pulling wires, then removing them again only to pull them back a second time.

It's in a reasonably good state now, I just need to source some nice nylon cable wrap through a mate now, just need to let him know what sizes now that its all complete.

A pic of the wiring in progress, was quite daunting at the start :o
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/2.jpg

Close to finished, just need to get everything wrapped properly and fixed in position. I havnt hooked up the passenger side lights or wipers yet, thats why its still messy near the engine tunnel.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/3.jpg

Relays for lights wired up and in place. Will look quite neat once all wrapped up.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/4.jpg

[stuee]

A bit of feedback since of got some spare time at work. I've been spending a lot of time on the new wiring and have a few observations.

One the lack of a detailed wiring diagram for the Painless Wiring harness is a real downfall. Its manual is more of a step by step procedure with no decent diagram to back it up. Some items aren't even documented, like should the horn switch feed wire be grounded or fed 12+ volts on the other side of the switch... I've also missed a few cables and only realised when I've seen them hanging somewhere. One that got me was there are two power feeds for the various circuits, both marked the same but different colours and numbers. I connected one then spent a while figuring out why some of my circuits weren't working. Wasn't till I took the mounting screws off the fuse box and turned it upside down I saw what was going on and hooked the next one up.

The other observation is that wiring up a car takes a long time. I thought once I ran the bulk of the harness everything would fall into place quite quickly. I was very wrong, it has taken quite a while to make all the connections, test things, re-run things etc. Also there's a huge amount of connectors, wire for earth cables etc still required.

I'm getting very close now, I've had to order a cheapy cable snake to try and run the tail light harness through the chassis again, otherwise the rest is nearly done, I will hopefully be able to start the engine by the end of this week using the key!

[Sitec]

Not sure if its of any use to you, but I have a reasonable wiring diagram that pointed me in the right direction several times of late when getting lights, heaters, washers, horns, indicators etc etc working.... If you want, PM me with an email address and I'll take a copy of what I have and send it to you.... Cheers for now, and looking good by the way! Keen to see the finished article as I think you'll be the one that's setting the resto standards!! 👍 :)

[stuee]

Not sure if its of any use to you, but I have a reasonable wiring diagram that pointed me in the right direction several times of late when getting lights, heaters, washers, horns, indicators etc etc working.... If you want, PM me with an email address and I'll take a copy of what I have and send it to you.... Cheers for now, and looking good by the way! Keen to see the finished article as I think you'll be the one that's setting the resto standards!! 👍 :)

I've got a detailed colour wiring diagram from when I was a uk club member, this has been great for when I am stealing wires for non-standard circuits and figuring out how some things work (6 way lighting switch, hazard switch etc), but I basically don't have the same for the universal harness that is replacing it which is the pain.

Cheers,
Stu

[spongie]

Spare a thought for me then. I have nothing of the sort as I'm wiring mine completely from scratch.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Can't be any worse than fitting an autosparks one. I bought the complete set when I rebuilt my old GS and was hugely underwhelmed.

Despite being a 'complete' wiring setup I still had to make up the looms for the headlights, everything for the rear lights from the back of the chassis loom, plus rewiring a couple of the multiplugs as the wires didn't go to the corresponding pins on both sides.
Fair enough I also modded it to accept the efi setup and bypass the I.R. relay, but I still found myself spending about 2 days tracing wires and feeds etc to sort manufacturing faults, not really what I expected when it was all bought.

[lardy]

Anything that stands out re the wiring hiccups stu let me know.
I am thinking of knocking the 101 again as we are coming back to Perth soonish, be nice to have it running cheers bud

[stuee]

Haven't been able to touch the 101 for 4 weeks due to work commitments. Just had three days off and have been going at it pretty hard at it.

Rear hubs are rebuilt and back together, diff cover back on and full of clean oil. Locker will have to wait until after its on the road.

Wiring has progressed further, I can start the engine with the key now :D, and with the quality wiring it fires up very easily and quickly although I had a few teething problems to sort out along the way. One was that the alternator (and just about every alternator ever made it seems) uses the ignition warning light circuit to help start the generator. Swapping out the indication light with an LED would supposedly meant he alternator would not actually start generating unless it got a good rev or I added a resistor in parallel and a diode to protect the LED. That was all too hard so the original incandescent globe is back in for that circuit.

The second issue which I have parked for this evening was that the starter solenoid goes to ground when not activated. The problem with this is that the ballast resistor bypass comes from here and consequently it kills the ignition only a second or two after starting the engine (once you've stopped turning the key that is). Disconnected it and it started no problems and ran beautifully. Will sort this out later but its not an issue I had with my dodgy starter box when I first got the engine running.

A video of me showing off some of the bits that work on the 101 (silly me took the video in portrait mode on my phone...):
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/2013-12-08165806.mp4


Otherwise some pictures, the making of a new brake warning switch:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/705.jpg

Removing the dash for the first time to fix some mistakes:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/706.jpg

Drivers side lights wired up:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/707.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/708.jpg

Heater blower back in action!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/709.jpg

Also lots of little bits done. The wiring is a great moral booster though. Nothing like being able to turn the key and fire up the engine.

Picked up some 1/4" bundy tube on Saturday to start making up the clutch lines. Also have a new flex hose being made up and two fittings on order which should get in next Saturday. I have a new speedo cable and clutch/brake reservoir coming from AJ soon. Then the goal is to move the 101 under its own steam so I can work on the passenger side disk conversion.

[spongie]

Looks like a brilliant job you are doing keep it up. Your not the first or will you be the last to mistakenly put leds in charge Light and not get a charge. But at least you noticed quickly I went through several weeks of flat batteries before realising my mistake whilst fitting a 200tdi in my series 2a

[spongie]

What are you wrapping the loom in? I've done my rear chassis harness in a braided expandable sleeve with heat shrink either end to prevent unravelling. The rest of the loom I'm going to wrap in cloth loom tape.

[stuee]

What are you wrapping the loom in? I've done my rear chassis harness in a braided expandable sleeve with heat shrink either end to prevent unravelling. The rest of the loom I'm going to wrap in cloth loom tape.

The main loom will be wrapped in split nylon braid (should be picking it up from my mate tomorrow) but the rest of it I'm using split corrugated conduit. Not what I originally wanted but its easy to get a hold of (any auto parts store) and reasonably cheap. The bits under the dash I may go back and swap out with the nylon braid after its on the road. Once I have it one though the loom will be fixed in place permanently and touch wood I wont have to touch it again.

Re the LED ignition light thankfully I caught it before I got the beast running with the alternator. I did look at running a resistor etc to get it going but far too much effort and I didn't want a ceramic resistor melting wiring under the dash. I've not got a number of spare globes from the other dash lights that have been replaced with modern types or with LED's. I'm just a bit miffed it doesn't match the two indicator LED's.

I'm going to have a crack at the wiper assembly tonight, start pulling it apart and see what needs doing. I know for a fact I need two brand new arms and wipers but I'm hoping the rest is in good nick.

[DasLandRoverMan]

They're not difficult to get bits for. I believe the wiper boxes are the same as an MGB and probably other period British stuff, not sure if defender ones are long enough, but happy to be proved wrong.

Defender wiper arms fit, and come with the added bonus of better wiper blades, as seen on my old GS rebuild. You'll also notice the washer jets were also replaced with a pair of Defender ones as the originals were rather manky. I think it looked pretty tidy, and it worked rather well.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/657.jpg

[stuee]

Not a huge deal done during the week. While fitting the nylon braid wrap over the wire I managed to cut my left index finger right on the tip which has been a pain. Makes it difficult to do tricky jobs and typing is much harder :mad:

Anyway pictures:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/500.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/501.jpg

Wiper box in its previous state:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/502.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/503.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/504.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/505.jpg

Now:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/506.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/507.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/508.jpg

Runs very smoothly now. Its pretty obvious why it might have been a bit rough before. Gearbox was fine, I just scraped out some of the old grease which was drying up and put some new stuff in.

I had a cracked washer bottle so I found a very close fit generic unit and modified the existing bracket to suite.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/509.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/510.jpg

Ill post another pic when its installed and hooked up.


They're not difficult to get bits for. I believe the wiper boxes are the same as an MGB and probably other period British stuff, not sure if defender ones are long enough, but happy to be proved wrong.

Defender wiper arms fit, and come with the added bonus of better wiper blades, as seen on my old GS rebuild. You'll also notice the washer jets were also replaced with a pair of Defender ones as the originals were rather manky. I think it looked pretty tidy, and it worked rather well.



Thanks for the tips on the defender washer jets. I cant tell from the picture but did you have to use one of the bushes from the existing jets to make it fit properly (i.e space it out correctly), or does it work fine without?

I'm going to look at what they cost locally over the weekend otherwise I'll get some ebay specials at under $10 a jet.

[DasLandRoverMan]

The Defender ones go straight on, there's a bit screws on the back to hold them in position, with enough sticking through to attach the pipes to. No spacers required, and being plastic the nut can't corrode onto the jet.

[spongie]

Stuee that wiring looks brilliant and tidy. Did you say the nylon is split to get wiring in? Otherwise looks like what I'm using

[stuee]

Stuee that wiring looks brilliant and tidy. Did you say the nylon is split to get wiring in? Otherwise looks like what I'm using

Thats correct. A mate sourced it for me so not 100% of brand but its definitely split. I've only got the nylon stuff for the main sections of the loom though, not enough time to source it for everything else. Its actually quite difficult to work with, a razor sharp Stanley knife will barely touch it so its extremely cut resistant, and when you do cut it the ends get frayed and messy unless you tape it up.

Split tube corrugated conduit on the other hand while not as visually appealing is far easier to work with IMO.

[chazza]

Beautiful job cobber!

Reference your cable-cover - try cutting it with a hot knife, which should fuse the ends together and stop the fraying,

Cheers Charlie

[stuee]

Just a note for those doing brake or clutch lines there are both iso (bubble) and double flares used on the 101. This has caused me a bit of grief as my rigid tool only does single or double flares - I've seen youtube vids of how to make a bubble like flare with a standard double flare tool but not going to risk it on the brakes.

My job over the weekend is now to get all my new bundy tube cut to length, straightened (if my wood blocks work) and shaped up where possible then take it all to the fittings shop on Monday to get the bubble flares done as well as pick up some new fittings which I hadn't accounted for.

When the job is done I'll try and do a table up for the various fittings and flares used for others to use in the future.

[chazza]

Just a note for those doing brake or clutch lines there are both iso (bubble) and double flares used on the 101. This has caused me a bit of grief as my rigid tool only does single or double flares - I've seen youtube vids of how to make a bubble like flare with a standard double flare tool but not going to risk it on the brakes.

My job over the weekend is now to get all my new bundy tube cut to length, straightened (if my wood blocks work) ...

My Sunbeam Alpine has similar pipes on it, but I found making the bubble end was no big deal using a similar flaring tool to yours. Admittedly two unions leaked when we bled the system but all that they needed was tightening; I have been using it for some months now and all is dry and perfect. :D

To straighten bundy tube, bend it by hand until it is close and then place it on a smooth surface, such as a steel plate, and gently tap the high spots with a small wooden mallet. Roll the tube frequently, tapping down the high spots - the same method can be used to straighten wire, or even steel bar using a hammer.

I did my straightening on an anvil,

Cheers Charlie

[stuee]

Got the clutch lines sorted from the cab down to the slave yesterday. The clutch are all double flares, even off the master cylinder, unlike the brake master cylinder.

My straightening method - worked well enough for what I needed:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/214.jpg

My first line bent up and installed (the green tape is simply to stop the nut slipping down):
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/215.jpg

Second line made up and compared to old:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/216.jpg

My fiancée's mirror showing the clutch master cylinder fittings being double flare. I don't know why the designers chose different fittings across the car :confused:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/217.jpg




I have some fuelling issues now. As its a simple case of turning the key to start the motor I'm doing it weekly to keep the oil circulated and everything turning over. I have found that a dodgy looking blanked pipe is now starting to leak. From a bit of research its a blanked return line. I'm not sure why its been drilled out if its not in use, but I also don't know if the fuel lines are original so my current return line could be incorrect and the blank just a dodgy fix that's lasted until now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/218.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/219.jpg

Any ideas on how the fuel lines are supposed to be setup? And what the best way to plug the un-used return line is? It would be much easier if the fuel lines were threaded as opposed to push fit :mad:

Feeling very lazy today so don't know if I'll get much done.

[Brute]

maybe that carby has been on the other side of another vehicle?
The carby rangy was plumbed like yours is, should have a small orifice in the return fitting to give the fuel a bias towards filling the float chambers

Cheers

Ian

[stuee]

Thanks Ian. I'll take a picture of the blanked section with me to the fittings shop tomorrow when I get a few more brake bits. They may be able to supply something to plug it nicely.

Otherwise here are all the brake lines cut and ready to get an iso flare on each end. I've also thrown in some other bits and pieces that I want to show off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/156.jpg

[stuee]

Just got back from the fittings shop. If it didn't have fuel in it they'd suggest soldering it, otherwise they reckon the best bet is to remove the fitting and tap a thread for a plug.

My least favourite job on the 101 is removing the carbies. Extremely fiddly job.

[slug_burner]

Put some liquid metal/metal putty onto the end of the pipe, it will do like solder and block the pipe. Make sure it is compound that can be exposed to petrol and not go soft. The metal putties are used to repair fuel tanks so should be ok just read the packet before you buy.

[stuee]

Did my dodgy deed for the xmas break.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/196.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/197.jpg


Ill keep the putty in mind for next time if it leaks again. The solder has done it for now but will be interesting to see how long it lasts. When the 101 is back on the road Id like to get a second set of carbies and manifold and rebuild them and clean them up nicely (maybe even polish them :cool:). I was originally thinking fuel injection but I kind of like the simplicity of carbs now I'm slowly getting my head around them.

[puma130tc]

Stuee,
I've been observing your build,without anything to add, other than, excellent job, looking great.
Ref. the leaking pipe on the carby, I'm fairly sure that's the overflow pipe, dumps fuel if the float valve in the carby sticks or doesn't quite shut off properly when the bowl is full.
This often occurs if sat around for a while, usually a tap on the body of the carby with a heavy plastic handled screw driver (the handle that is) will cure the problem.
These u
We're fitted with a plastic tube that exited the engine bay to the ground, however, if they get blocked up, you get fuel starvation problems when running under load, from memory.

I'll happily stand corrected, but that's what they look like to me...

Peter.
Ps. I have a 101 rebuild in progress, but have gone down the diesel conversion route, so won't be anywhere near original when done.

[stuee]

Thanks Peter. I thought I'd just check the return line quickly before breaky and sure enough is blocked! That's probably why it started pushing out the blanked tube when its never done it before. I think I'll run some fuel cleaner through the next lot if fuel to clean the lines after clearing the return fitting. I may have to undo my dodgy fix but run another return line to the tank. I'll see how it pans out first.

Have a merry Xmas all.

Cheers
stuee

[stuee]

Finished with the annual xmas run around and now have a nice quiet afternoon ahead.

I had to drop the coolant and oil so I could re-tap the thread for the shuttle valve since I didn't clean it after the chassis was galvanised. With the collant out I'm going to hook up the heater hoses but I also took the opportunity to remove the old mechanical temperature probe. Wasn't quite straight forward, it took lots of heat, drilling, bashing, release spray etc but its out now and I've kept the original thread in tact which is good.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/157.jpg

Also because I'll probably spend the rest of the day drinking beer and chilling out Ill post up pics of the only other thing that I've done and thats clear the blockage from the return fitting. The below pic shows a 1mm drill bit which I worked through to remove the ball of crap on the end.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/158.jpg

Fuel should have better luck getting through here now:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/159.jpg

I hear AutoOne has a boxing day sale (30% off everything) so I'm going to head to my local store and look at picking up some dynamat for when I go to line the engine cover and that sort of thing. That stuffs not cheap so best to get it on sale.

[350RRC]

Thanks Ian. I'll take a picture of the blanked section with me to the fittings shop tomorrow when I get a few more brake bits. They may be able to supply something to plug it nicely.

Otherwise here are all the brake lines cut and ready to get an iso flare on each end. I've also thrown in some other bits and pieces that I want to show off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/156.jpg

Nice hoses......... Goodridge?

DL

[stuee]

Nice hoses......... Goodridge?

DL


The hoses are Brakequip made up by the hydraulic shop I go to. Good value and ADR approved etc so no issue when I take it over pits.

Brake Hose Manufacturing Systems, BrakeQuip Australia (http://www.brakequip.com.au/)

[stuee]

Ref. the leaking pipe on the carby, I'm fairly sure that's the overflow pipe, dumps fuel if the float valve in the carby sticks or doesn't quite shut off properly when the bowl is full.
This often occurs if sat around for a while, usually a tap on the body of the carby with a heavy plastic handled screw driver (the handle that is) will cure the problem.
These we're fitted with a plastic tube that exited the engine bay to the ground, however, if they get blocked up, you get fuel starvation problems when running under load, from memory.


Looks like this may be on the money. Started the engine today after becoming a yoga expert putting all the heater hoses in and the engine is running like crap. A bit of a play with everything and while its running I disconnect the fuel pump power and the engine all of a sudden starts running beautifully (till the carby starts running out of petrol). Plug it back in and it goes crap again and I can repeat this many times over.

From the behaviour of the engine and the flames shooting out the exhaust I suspect I've caused the system to overpressure which is causing the carbies to flood. To start the engine a second time when I turned it off before I figured out the fuel supply issue I had to crank the engine for quite a while before it would even fire making me suspect it was flooded.

Simple check is to de-solder the pipe I've sealed up and see if that makes a difference. I'm going to read up more on it tonight because its a bit late in the day to be running a v8 without mufflers :twisted:

[Sitec]

This might not work as I'm no petrol engine expert, but when a vehicle fitted with a carby runs rough, one of the first things the old garage man in the village servo where I used to live in the UK did was take the air intake pipes off, give the motor a good rev then slam his hands straight over the carby inlets, sucking any crap out of the jets. Worth a try b4 pulling the carbys down... :)

[wrinklearthur]

From the behaviour of the engine and the flames shooting out the exhaust I suspect I've caused the system to overpressure which is causing the carbies to flood.

Simple check is to de-solder the pipe I've sealed up and see if that makes a difference. I'm going to read up more on it tonight because its a bit late in the day to be running a v8 without mufflers :twisted:

Twin SU carbies ?

Fuel level is too high in the float bowl's, is there supposed to be a fuel pressure regulator on those V8's?
.

[stuee]

Twin SU carbies ?

Fuel level is too high in the float bowl's, is there supposed to be a fuel pressure regulator on those V8's?
.

No regulators. I've looked through all the manuals and documents I have for the 101 and none show or indicate an overflow pipe so I believe it has been changed out at some point with another CD175. I've also checked a heap of pics of others 101's and not seen this particular pipe actually drilled out.

What I've read so far tonight is telling me that I've closed up the fuel bowl vent which is causing the issues. It may be that the passenger side carb also leaked when I had the blocked return line but I just never noticed. I think the picture below shows how the vent goes into the intake manifold rather than dumping on top of the engine.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/129.jpg

This is quite a handy read (where I got the pic from):
TR250/TR6 Carbs Part I (http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/CarbsI/CarbsI.htm)

A reference on venting on the club forum:
101 club • Login (http://www.101club.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3774&hilit=flooding)

Tomorrow I'll unsolder the vent valve and see what happens. I suspect now that the return line blockage is cleared it will not leak if I open up the vent line again.

[Mick_Marsh]

Twin SU carbies ?

Fuel level is too high in the float bowl's, is there supposed to be a fuel pressure regulator on those V8's?
.
No fuel pressure regulator required for the standard set up. The fuel circulates around back into the tank and keeps adequate fuel supply to the carbies.
As the fuel return is now blocked, maybe a fuel pressure regulator is now the solution?

[stuee]

I've fixed the blockage on the proper return line. I believe its as Peter pointed out to me, I may have actually blocked the fuel bowl vent line.

[wrinklearthur]

Another thought. :imwithstupid:

If the vent is blocked then as the fuel level increases in side the float bowl, there would be a slight pressure increase, forcing the fuel through where it is normally drawn by vacuum.

.

[Sitec]

The simple solution is to junk the original in tank pump and put a Facet pump in line. That's what I did on mine for the few weeks I ran the thirsty 8! :)

[stuee]

Another thought. :imwithstupid:

If the vent is blocked then as the fuel level increases in side the float bowl, there would be a slight pressure increase, forcing the fuel through where it is normally drawn by vacuum.

.

I think this is basically what it boils down too. Spewing I have to wait till tomorrow to test it out.

[puma130tc]

Stuee,
You're about there, that small hole in the return line fitting is very importat!
If not there/drilled out too large then the restriction is not enough for the pump to be able to maintain the correct pressure to the float bowls.
The return is also important to prevent vaporisation especially when starting a hot engine, ensures a constant relatively cool fuel supply!
The vent pipes really to need to be vented to atmosphere, I once spent many hours trying to work out a misfire problem, only to discover it was caused entirely by one of these being blocked.
On classic Range Rovers these went across to the inner guard and down to the road. Not sure with the 101, can't say I have any recollection from when I pulled mine apart, I'll have a look through the photos I took at the time.
So long as they go clear of the manifolds, somehow, then they should be ok, only petrol should come out if there is a problem, so not good on hot manifolds....
Regards
Peter.

[stuee]

Stuee,
You're about there, that small hole in the return line fitting is very importat!
If not there/drilled out too large then the restriction is not enough for the pump to be able to maintain the correct pressure to the float bowls.
The return is also important to prevent vaporisation especially when starting a hot engine, ensures a constant relatively cool fuel supply!
The vent pipes really to need to be vented to atmosphere, I once spent many hours trying to work out a misfire problem, only to discover it was caused entirely by one of these being blocked.
On classic Range Rovers these went across to the inner guard and down to the road. Not sure with the 101, can't say I have any recollection from when I pulled mine apart, I'll have a look through the photos I took at the time.
So long as they go clear of the manifolds, somehow, then they should be ok, only petrol should come out if there is a problem, so not good on hot manifolds....
Regards
Peter.

All running good now. It was definitely over fuelling with the fuel bowl vent blocked off. The thing wouldn't crank first up after I fixed the vent line so I checked out the spark plugs on the side with the carby that had the blocked vent line and the spark plugs were all practically wet. I cleaned these, fired it up and it started rough but as the excess fuel cleared it went back to running very smoothly. Only the tiniest little bubble came out of the vent line when the fuel pump came on so it must all be working properly now that the return line is cleared. I'd like to know how the 101's are setup so I can do similar. I agree its no good venting fuel onto a hot engine!

With the engine back to normal I've now been able to finish flushing the coolant and drain out the cleaning agent (should have had this done before Christmas!!!). I'm leaving it to drain over night then it will be getting a fresh lot of Tectaloy 60 in the morning. Now with the temperature gauges all hooked up I'm not so sure the series 3 electrical gauge should be powered by 10V. While the VDO is reading around 82 degrees, the series 3 electrical gauge is reading close to the redline.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/94.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/95.jpg

Any one have any experience with the series 3 gauges and where they normally sit? I might try and run it on 12V at some point but in no rush atm. At least I know where the needle should be and I have the VDO as backup.

I also note that I shouldn't have problems with Perth winters. The heater is very hot :o

A video of the engine back to normal and running nicely:
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Engine%20and%20Gearbox/2013-12-27173501.mp4

[stuee]

Wasnt a great day today. I decided I'd do the passenger side disc conversion where the car sits currently, a bit tight but still enough room. Cleaned up a bit then got started and when I disassembled this side I realised I'd have to take the swivel housing off this time.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/38.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/39.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/40.jpg

Parts cleaned up and items to be painted have two coats of the new Rust Guard quick dry primer. Going to try the quick dry enamel and see how it goes. I just need to clean the CV joint up more then it can all go back together and I can finish the brake lines!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/41.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/42.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/43.jpg

[Sitec]

Any one have any experience with the series 3 gauges and where they normally sit?

The Series Gauge will be set up to use a sender from a 2.286 petrol or diesel... What sender are you using? I'm sure the later V8 senders were different to suit the gauge in a Rangie... A Stage 1 V8 sender might be what you need.. (Someone else may know more here than me)...

Seeing the inside of your swivel housing reminded me of what one of mine was like!!! Luckily they cleaned up well and the CV was fine! :)

[stuee]

The sender is from a series 3 petrol so should be the right sender and bought at the same time as the gauge so hopefully I've not been supplied with the wrong part.

[stuee]

Why are the bloody brakes and clutch so difficult to bleed!

Got the rears done fine, I think the shuttle valve is holding the fronts out but no idea on how to stop it blocking the fronts - the bleed nipple doesn't seem to do anything, and the clutch just doesn't want to get any air out. Can gravity bleed the clutch fine but still makes no difference. Pipe into a coke bottle still makes bugger all difference too. Pump it 20 times bleed the air out and it gets firm only to go soft again in a minute or so later. Its like there's an air leak but no brake fluid coming out. :censored::censored::censored:

Well and truly getting over this thing at the moment. Only 10 weeks till d-day, I'm sure as hell not going to let this thing be the reason I'm stressed out on the day. :mad:

[Mick_Marsh]

Check the holes in the nipples aren't blocked.

[stuee]

Check the holes in the nipples aren't blocked.

Done that. The fronts are the Zeus disk brakes and brand new, was able to blow through them before fitting. The Clutch nipple I can bleed through so assume not blocked.

I'm wondering if there's issues with the clutch MC after getting rebuilt. Going to have another crack first thing in the morning.

[Brute]

Stuee, I think the shuttle is the same as the rangy
probably have to do both fronts at the same time to stop the shuttle moving,
If it has moved you might have to take the switch out of the top and lever the shuttle back to the centre position with a small screw driver. Should be a detent groove in the spool where the switch fits when it's in the middle

[wrinklearthur]

Done that. The fronts are the Zeus disk brakes and brand new, was able to blow through them before fitting. The Clutch nipple I can bleed through so assume not blocked.

I'm wondering if there's issues with the clutch MC after getting rebuilt. Going to have another crack first thing in the morning.

After pumping up the clutch keep the pedal held down, then undo where the pipe goes onto the clutch master cylinder, if there is any air in the line, it should be near that point and the pressure plate returning should push the air out, repeat if necessary.

All the best for the New Year. :spudnikparty:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php?p=2056174#post2056174
.

[stuee]

Stuee, I think the shuttle is the same as the rangy
probably have to do both fronts at the same time to stop the shuttle moving,
If it has moved you might have to take the switch out of the top and lever the shuttle back to the centre position with a small screw driver. Should be a detent groove in the spool where the switch fits when it's in the middle

Why cant they put that in the workshop manual :censored: I've been reading up for a while trying to find something like that... Thanks for the heads up though, I'll give that a shot tomorrow.



After pumping up the clutch keep the pedal held down, then undo where the pipe goes onto the clutch master cylinder, if there is any air in the line, it should be near that point and the pressure plate returning should push the air out, repeat if necessary.

All the best for the New Year. :spudnikparty:

This makes sense as it sounds like the air is trapped in the MC (i.e that's where I hear the odd squishy sound coming from, not the slave cylinder end). Another thing to try tomorrow.

A happy new year to you all too!

Cheers,
Stu

[Brute]

Stu,
Just been looking at the brake shuttle valve. It is the same valve as the Rangy but plumbed different, the only conventional way I can see to bleed them is to do a front and back at the same time.
Or I have a vacuum pump you could borrow which just sucks oil through from the master cylinder to the bleed nipple without pumping the pedal. Would probably do the clutch easier too.

cheers

Ian

[stuee]

Thanks Ian. I didn't end up touching the 101 on New Years day, had breakfast at the folks house and sat by their pool most of the day instead. I've made the call to remove the wedding as a deadline for he 101 now, too many things still to be done and I don't want to rush them after doing everything just how I want up to this point in time. Its become more of a chore than a fun hobby over the last few weeks.

I've got a few things to try on the weekend but I think I will have to take you up on the offer to borrow the vacuum bleeder. I've read a few posts on the club forum that some people have only had success with those when bleeding a new system.

With the shuttle valve I want to see if I can take the bleed valve off and push the valve back and open up the front circuit and let it gravity bleed out to at least pressurise the system up first.

The clutch still has me beat. I tried bleeding air out of the top fitting but that didn't work. I can feel it pushing air but thers is the odd time where it seems to get fluid and I have a bit of feel in the pedal. Hopefully this is one the vacuum bleeder can do.

Cheers,
Stu

[stuee]

Had another look at the brakes this morning. Tried resetting the shuttle valve by cracking the rear circuit and pumping the pedal. I got nothing out of this. Thought I'd do some further troubleshooting and cracked the front line into the shuttle valve and was surprised to see no fluid come out.

Cracked the front line directly on the master cylinder and its dry as a whistle. No fluid coming from the reservoir into the cylinder I just need to figure out why. At least I know the intermediate seal is holding up :eek:

I'm reading up on the tipping valve on the below link and wondering if that's not been setup properly or blocked or jammed:
Brake Overview & Theory (http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Theory/Theory.htm)

Going by the 101 workshop manual the master cylinders look very much the same. Maybe the return springs are not strong or long enough to push the primary piston back against the tipping valve?

It looks like the master cylinder may need to come out to check it out properly. Not going to be a tidy job that's for sure. At least it looks easy to access and remove.

Any thoughts on easy ways to get fluid though without pulling the thing out? At least the stress is gone now. Also going fishing this arvo for some flathead in the river :D

[drifter]

We were working on a Series 1 that was being difficult so we got a spare reservoir cap and put a schrader valve in it and used the air compressor to blow the fluid through...

It was much better than the vacuum suck system we tried to use.

Edit: we only used a very low pressure - no point blowing a reservoir full through in seconds ;)

[101 Ron]

Hi Stuee
I have never had a problem bleeding the brakes and clutch on the 101.
For some reason some people have trouble doing so.
Ensure fluid reservoirs are full.
Crack fluid line at outlet of master cylinder.
Use slow steady full length strokes and get fluid though master cylinder.
Don't pump quickly or use short strokes.
Tighten fitting at back of master cylinder
Ensure master cylinder push rod has free play.........ie adjusted correctly.
Open slave cylinder/wheel cylinder bleeder.
Walk away and come back a hour later.......if no fluid at bleeder come back the next day.
gravity will push fluid through if given time.
When fluid is at bleeder and fluid level in reservoir has dropped bleed normally using slow steady full strokes of the pedal.
If gravity is not pushing fluid though...........there is a component problem.

[stuee]

Ensure master cylinder push rod has free play.........ie adjusted correctly.


This is my next port of call. I was hoping after I spent an exuberant amount of money getting everything overhauled it should just work without me having to adjust it as well...

From what little I've found on adjusting the pushrod on the brake master cylinder, the master cylinder itself needs to be removed. unlike the clutch there is no adjustment at the connection to the pedal. If I get a chance Ill get to this tomorrow, but Ill need to drain a fair bit of fluid so it doesn't get messy.

[stuee]

After getting over my hangover from last night (I still don't know how we won the cricket!) I made another start on the brakes. Drained the brake fluid out and pulled the master-cylinder off. Master works just fine, can blow through with the pistons at rest position and blocks flow with only the slightest push on the piston so its working as it should.

Pic showing the assembly and adjustment nut:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/682.jpg

From this pic you can almost see how in the rest position the push rod will be pushing the MC piston.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/683.jpg

Pre-adjustment:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/684.jpg

Post-adjustment:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/685.jpg


I tested it had enough clearance by holding the master in place and blowing through a piece of reservoir hose. I adjusted it back until I could blow through the hose with the master cylinder in its mounting place. I also then checked the clearance by pressing the brake pedal a few times to make sure it would return to the open potion at rest. All appears to be going okay now.

Only thing is now is the retainer ring for the push rod is busted as it pulls out freely now (to the rubber seal anyway). Technically it shouldn't affect operation as the MC spring will keep the push rod seated in position but its a bit dodgy. Unfortunately, to replace it involves splitting the servo so another $400 for an overhaul. No thankyou.

Again this guys website was very useful:
Overhauling Brake Servo (http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Servo/Servo.htm)

With any luck I should be able to get the MC mounted back on lines plumbed in and bleed the brakes!

edit* I'm really peeved at the brake overhaul place. I spent over $1100 getting all the brake bits overhauled. By supplying the master-cylinder and servo together and getting both overhauled I thought any adjustment should have been sorted by the time I picked it all up. The only plus out of all this is I now have a much better understanding of the brake system.

[stuee]

On Friday I dropped past auto one and picked up one of these:
Product Catalogue :: Mechanical Service :: Brake Service Tools :: 500ml Vacuum Brake Bleeder Kit - SP Tools Australia (http://dev.sphandtools.com/en/catalogue/mechanical-service/brake-service-tools/500ml-vacuum-brake-bleeder-kit.html)

I was originally looking at a new lens for my camera but the boss said no so I got this instead :twisted:

Brakes are bled and working fine now. Clutch is still a no go. I bled it some more with the new bleeder and still nothing.

Checking things with a clear head now when I press the pedal down the level in the reservoir rises, when I release the pedal the level drops back down again. This is telling me that the MC may not be working properly and not sealing the inlet when pressed down so rather than push the slave cylinder it will just pump back up the reservoir. Either that or theres some adjustment that's out again. The pedal appears to be adjusted correctly according to the manual, to make sure the pushrod was actually engaging the MC I removed the pedal spring, pressed the pedal and the MC pushed the pedal back into position by itself.

Next check was remove the slave cylinder and get the boss to pump the clutch pedal. There was zero movement in the salve which re-affirms what I thought above.

From what I can tell from the manual and online the only real adjustment is the pedal which at the moment I'm happy with. I wonder if again the brake shop has not done something right on the MC or if I've missed something obvious.

Any thoughts on this one?

[101 Ron]

Master cylinder piston is not coming back far enough.
1/ master cylinder piston is getting stuck in bore on the return stroke.
2/master cylinder push rod is not letting master cylinder piston move back far enough.
3/the very small port in the master cylinder inlet is blocked( there are two ports or holes, one is bigger than the other, should be able to just see it with the fluid supply/housing pipe removed.
4/ incorrect seals fitted to master cylinder.

Some times a tap with a small hammer on the side of the master cylinder will encourage a sticky master cylinder piston move all the back in its travel .
It some times takes aliitle while for the fluid to start lubricating the piston seals..................usually you check all this out on the bench and prime the cylinder best as possible before fitting.

[stuee]

Master cylinder piston is not coming back far enough.
1/ master cylinder piston is getting stuck in bore on the return stroke.
2/master cylinder push rod is not letting master cylinder piston move back far enough.
3/the very small port in the master cylinder inlet is blocked( there are two ports or holes, one is bigger than the other, should be able to just see it with the fluid supply/housing pipe removed.
4/ incorrect seals fitted to master cylinder.

Some times a tap with a small hammer on the side of the master cylinder will encourage a sticky master cylinder piston move all the back in its travel .
It some times takes aliitle while for the fluid to start lubricating the piston seals..................usually you check all this out on the bench and prime the cylinder best as possible before fitting.

Thanks Ron.

1) Makes sense. The unit was overhauled in August, perhaps any lubricating fluid they put in dried out before I filled the system with brake fluid.
2) I checked this by backing off the pedal stop and the master cylinder maxes out before the stop. No difference
3) I'm going to bash things with a hammer a few more time before I resort to pulling it out to check this.
4) I hope not. It was a big shop in Perth and I can only hope they know what they were doing :(

I know for next time to bench test everything, learning the hard way this time.

I've had a few taps with the hammer so far and nothing. I'll have a few more bashes, if only to let the thing no I'm not happy with it. Then drain the fluid out once more and remove the pedal assembly and master cylinder. At least I know it doesn't take long too bleed the rear brakes again.

[Sitec]

I might be about to say something really stupid or state the obvious, but is it possible to connect the reservoir hose to the outlet and vice versa, because to me if pressing the pedal makes the level rise, then its plumbed backwards. Now having suggested this I might drag my arse off the sofa and go look at mine! :D

[stuee]

I might be about to say something really stupid or state the obvious, but is it possible to connect the reservoir hose to the outlet and vice versa, because to me if pressing the pedal makes the level rise, then its plumbed backwards. Now having suggested this I might drag my arse off the sofa and go look at mine! :D

Bugger me you might be onto something! I need to go check if I should be bashing my head with that hammer instead!

edit* oh dear :oops2:

[101RRS]

I might be about to say something really stupid or state the obvious, but is it possible to connect the reservoir hose to the outlet and vice versa, because to me if pressing the pedal makes the level rise, then its plumbed backwards. Now having suggested this I might drag my arse off the sofa and go look at mine! :D

In a 101 it is possible because there is a little design flaw in the master cylinder that allows fluid to transfer from one brake circuit to the other and this excess fluid goes into the reservoir. There is a small o ring that separates the circuits and when the brakes are applied a small amount of fluid can cross over. Not a safety issue just means one reservoir slowly fills up as the other goes down.

Here is my solution

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/reservoirs.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/reservoirs.jpg.html)

As one fills up it drains back to the other - works very well.

Garry

[Mick_Marsh]

Bugger me you might be onto something! I need to go check if I should be bashing my head with that hammer instead!

edit* oh dear :oops2:
I take it your clutch is working magnificently now?

[stuee]

I take it your clutch is working magnificently now?

Yes :D

I made an assumption that the adaptor piece that uses a joint washer to seal would be on the low pressure side (i.e feed from the reservoir). A closer look at the manual tells you otherwise.

I'm just hearing this in my head over and over now:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/664.jpg

[drifter]

Just think of yourself as a pioneer.

Now it's posted here no-one else has any excuse for doing it :D

[stuee]

Right, I currently have three prop shafts, two of the same type. Unfortunately with the flaking paint and rust I cant locate any part numbers. The two shafts which are the same are shorter than the one on its own.

I think the shorter shafts are the front ones but want to confirm. I'm sure I've read this somewhere before but cant find anything now I'm actually looking. I want to temporarily fix the front prop shaft up and give the front diff a good work out to make sure its happy after a clean and fresh oil.

Ill be pulling them apart later for a clean and a paint. If I have a spare front one its a bonus as I can keep that in till the other is cleaned up.

edit* found one post that says I'm wrong on the club forum:
http://www.101club.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3582&hilit=prop+shaft+longer+front+rear&start=20#p35590

Still looking otherwise

[101 Ron]

Tailshafts lengths as fitted
front 30 inches
rear 28 inches

The only reason you got the master cylinder plumbing wrong is because you are doing a ground up rebuild......swapping the pipes over on a 101 is not normally a option as they just will not swap over.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Fairly sure the front is longer. Surely the smart money would be on holding the thing up on the vehicle and see what fits in the gap?

Re clutch cylinders: The master is the same as used on Series II and IIA vehicles with the bean tin reservoir. The slave the same as various V8 powered models.

If you want a really light clutch then the inch bore brake master from IIA/IIB FC's and non servo 101's will also fit nicely.

[stuee]

Thanks gents, I took a gamble with the long shaft and now I dont feel so bad. It did fit fit so I turned her over with it on.

First thing is changing gears using the clutch and seeing the hubs move is a motivational booster. I'm going to try and hook the steering bits up over the week.

While running it was lovely and quiet, until I got to 4th gear then I think I experienced the prop shaft rumble for the first time. Bear in mind the prop shaft I had fitted has minimal grease and looks very ratty. Wasnt too bad though I thought.

Next job was to change the angle of the hubs. I've only got the track rod hooked up so I had to get out the cab and manually turn the wheels. Again it ran fine in low gears and then got to 4th gear and poo. The thing made a racket. Clutch down and back to a lower gear, these obviously aren't a car you can go round corners quickly with.

Car got to temperature and that was it for me, I'm still unsure about operating temps with the VDO telling me 82 deg but the series 3 gauge getting to the bottom of the red. I think I might borrow the thermal imaging camera from work one evening.

Anyway when I turned her off I got out the cab and found the following:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/637.jpg

Which is coming from here:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/638.jpg

Not sure if its from the high vibrations while the steering was on full lock or during normal running. When I fire it up next weekend I'll leave the wheels straight and see what happens. If the seal needs replacing it will have to wait for an expert to do it.

[DasLandRoverMan]

You'd be surprised how well 101's handle on the road, especially on a decent set of radials.

With a GS all the weight is down low, and they're surprisingly chuckable if you want to throw them about on the road.
Ambulances are a different story as the body is rather heavy, but a GS will surprise a lot of people if you have the confidence to drive it hard.

[Homestar]

Agree with DLRM here - they handle surprisingly well.:)

Oh, and your pics are both the same - the second pic doesn't show where the leak is.

[stuee]

Agree with DLRM here - they handle surprisingly well.:)

Oh, and your pics are both the same - the second pic doesn't show where the leak is.

Woops. Changed the link. The oil is coming from the pinion seal. Could be because the prop shaft was thrashing it around, its shot, or it has dried out and hopefully a bit of oil will make it better again :(

[chazza]

The oil is coming from the pinion seal. Could be because the prop shaft was thrashing it around, its shot, or it has dried out and hopefully a bit of oil will make it better again :(

Check the axle breather if you haven't already.

If it is the seal, you will need the nyloc nut and the crushable-spacer as well and possibly a speedi-sleeve, if it is the same set-up as the S3 rear axle,

Cheers Charlie

[stuee]

I gather replacing the seal can mess up the pinion adjustment causing problems if you are not careful, and it needs a bloody big breaker bar to compress the spacer?? A job I'd rather leave for a diff specialist.

Ill check the breathers tonight. Its something on my to do list that's not been looked at now for quite some time. Should I expect it to start pushing out fluid so soon with the breathers blocked? It didn't really get much time to get heat into it but it did only happen towards the end of the session and when I gave it some in 4th gear :D

On the topic of diff breathers does anyone know where they terminate in the 101? I know the gearbox and transfer have breathers that terminate at the intake manifold but haven't been able to see in the parts manual where the diff breathers go. I'm wondering if its worth my money buying one of the ebay kits with filters on the end, but I gather some fuel hose does just a good a job as any and is cheaper to get a hold of.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Changing the seal shouldn't mess up the adjustment, and won't need the new spacer collar etc. Put another way, I've only ever removed the flange, changed the seal and fired it back together, which has never caused major issues.

More likely the seal is perhaps dry, slightly off square, or there's a bit of wear on the pinion flange where the old seal ran which has allowed it to start leaking again.

[stuee]

Started putting the steering together today. Didn't get far as it was too hot and humid for me. The hardest part has been getting the dropman arms back on the steering relay. I had to tidy up some damaged splines and use a cold chisel to pry the arm open so I could get it onto the steering relay. Definitely not coming off in a hurry.

One of the issues with doing the steering this late was that my main harness fouled the top steering arm. Thankfully it was an easy fix to change where it was fixed to the body, I just need to extend one of my earth cables to finish it off.

How it was:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/261.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/262.jpg

Now fixed:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/263.jpg

I've also ordered some new spire nuts and suitable bolts for the drivers and passenger floor from ebay. I'm missing a handful and brand new floor fixings will finish things off nicely.

[101 Ron]

You will find that side of the radiator will get busy as lots of stuff has to run though that area.

[101 Ron]

The seal is no biggie, if you are careful you didn't need to upset the crush spacer.
A big 3/4 drive rattle gun makes removing the nut easy if you can find one.
Quaility of the replacement seal is important.......genuine landrover double lip ones work best if you can find one as the extra lip keeps the mud and dust out with the outer lip shaped to cup into behind the drive flange oil slinger.
I locktite the both the flange nut and drive splines on the drive flange.
I do this because you need to tighten up the flange nut slightly under that needed to crush the crush spacer....ie slight less than it was before and I do the drive flange splines as wear is normally present and the splines will move tending to loosen the flange nut and also allow oil to travel down the splines from the diff and to the out side world.
The dis advantage of loctiting the drive flange splines is you will need a good puller to remove it in the future.
Every thing to do with tailshafts and drive flanges/diff is very important with a 101 because of the almost 6 to one diff reduction meaning all this stuff is spining a lot harder than normal for modern traffic.
The 101 front tailshaft grumble and vibs also tends to loosen things too.
The diff breather needs to be at minimum to have its holes in the banjo fitting of it drilled out larger.
The standard breather banjo fitted has a extremely small hole in it, and one small flake of condensation corrosion rust from inside the diff will block it leading to blown hub oil seals and diff drive flange seals.
On my 101 I have done away with the breather banjos all together and used a Festo swivelling connector straight into the diff housing.

[stuee]

You will find that side of the radiator will get busy as lots of stuff has to run though that area.

Yep, still have the high/low cable to run, and the vacuum pipes for the centre diff lock.

I've just realised too that I've left the accelerator cable under the steering arm :mad: All the loose cables I was going to cable tie to the wiring harness as best as possible to stop them flailing about.

[101 Ron]

Run the accelerator cable in a way which makes it easy to remove or refit if possible when the vehicle is finished as the accelerator cables have been known to break.................they are a real pain in the bum to fit on the side of the road.
Usually the accelerator cable gets bundled up inbetween with all the other cables and wires.

[stuee]

Run the accelerator cable in a way which makes it easy to remove or refit if possible when the vehicle is finished as the accelerator cables have been known to break.................they are a real pain in the bum to fit on the side of the road.
Usually the accelerator cable gets bundled up inbetween with all the other cables and wires.

Is it worth keeping a spare? I don't fancy trying to get to the fixings between the brake and clutch pedal assemblies - very tight space to work in.

[101 Ron]

I carry a spare accelerator cable as it takes next to no room.
I also carry spare electric fuel pump and the standard transfercase gear and special cir clip piers in case the overdrive packs it in ,as a failed over drive will leave you stranded as will a crook in tank fuel pump.
I find the crank handle comes in handy time to time too.
Carby diaphrams take next to no room and they have been known to fail time to time........quick and easy job to do on the side off the road, I always carry the diaphrams.

[stuee]

Busy morning today. Went to put the lower drop-arm on the steering relay and found the splines had been damaged quite a bit. A bit of work with some various files and it was good to go.

Looks a bit out:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/248.jpg


On its way to being fixed:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/249.jpg


I hooked up the vacuum lines to the difflock actuator but no go. Ill have to pull it off and check its all working properly. Since I wanted this thing moving I fitted the rear drive shaft as it only takes 10 minutes to put on and another 10 to remove if needed. Put the wheels back on, dropped it off the axle stands and had a bit of a tidy up then this :D:D:D
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Videos/Itmoves.mp4



Now I can move it as required and have a nice clear walk way up one side.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/250.jpg


And plenty of space to finish the passenger side wiring.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/251.jpg

With a walkway to the rear I'll probably start on the rear lights soon. Very happy today!

[Homestar]

Coming together nicely.:)

Just looking at the roof height in your carport, and the roller door. I'm guessing the windscreen, roll bar, rear frame and canvas are the last things on your list?:D

We're are you going to keep it once its complete?

[stuee]

Coming together nicely.:)

Just looking at the roof height in your carport, and the roller door. I'm guessing the windscreen, roll bar, rear frame and canvas are the last things on your list?:D

We're are you going to keep it once its complete?

:D Yep those things will be coming last. Its never an excuse to say you don't have a shed to house a project in!

As soon as the 101 is finished the carport will be torn down, its a dodgy looking extension that looks like its breaking away (literally) from the original house. That will be the start of subdividing and building a house on the rear block before we sell up and move to a house closer to my work (hopefully with a pool and a shed amongst other luxuries...).

I did have dodgy thoughts about just throwing everything together and driving it half restored to the wedding but its only six weeks away now :o, and I'm enjoying it too much to worry about stressing out getting it finished in time.

[stuee]

Had a couple of people come round today to check out the 101. Drove it onto the front lawn and had as much of a play as possible.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/153.jpg

Starting to chase up the door seals again so I cant start on those. The biggest issue is the channel that holds the seals being rusted out. I sent a query to this mob to find the width of the channel to see if it matches that on the 101:
Range Rover Classic Door Gasket Holder - YRM Metal Solutions (http://www.yrmlandrover.com/Range-Rover-Classic-Door-Gasket-Holder)

Postage looks like it will probably be quite rude but the alternative is to go to a custom set-up using seals from clark rubber, none of which look like they will be an easy fit. Ill update my other thread on doors if I find anything out about these but planning to remove the skin from one of the doors next weekend and introduce it to the wire brush wheel.

I'll keep one door assembled for reference and so I can check out any changes I might make will work when the doors are on the actual 101. I trial fitted one of the doors and reckon even with their shabby paint they still look good :p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/154.jpg

[Homestar]

Awesome - nothing like moving a project around under its own steam:). Don't loose focus now and try and rush to the finish - you've done everything so well - this machine is a real credit to you.

Can't wait to see it 100% finished.:)

[stuee]

Trying to get all the bits I need to sort the doors out and I've found that I'm missing the drivers side door side drain channel (Part 398252). Its the opposite one of these:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1239.jpg

I've asked AJ if he has one available or knows where to get one but if anyone else knows of any about or anyone wrecking a 101 could you let me know? Worst case I can take my current one to a sheet metal shop and get one made up. It's reasonably simple so hopefully not too expensive.

Otherwise today I sorted out the battery terminals. The terminals I bought are a fraction too big to fit the studs on the battery so a bit of copper pipe was cut to suite and acts as a spacer. I just need a bit of rubber under the battery now to stop it slipping about.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1240.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/02/1241.jpg

[Milton477]

Brilliant battery terminals. Where did you get them from?
Amazing job you are doing.

[stuee]

Brilliant battery terminals. Where did you get them from?
Amazing job you are doing.

I got mine from jaycar. You can even get ones with a small voltmeter on them. I've since seen equivalents on ebay for a few dollars cheaper. I had the same terminals on my discovery after doing the dual battery upgrade and they seem less prone to corrosion than the generic brass ones. They will get a clean and a spray of high temp battery grease soon though to be safe.

[rc fans]

really awsome job！！:banana:

[stuee]

Not much been happening on my 101 lately but slowly pottering along in the background. I made the mistake of lending my compact digital camera to my brother thinking I wouldn't use it now I had my DSLR. Bit of a mistake as I wont get out the DSLR to take pictures of the build as its too big and I don't fancy filling it with dust and grit like my lx5 :( So there may be less pictures going forward.

I've mainly been working on the doors although there's a few small issues with the brakes still to resolve, a leaky connection between the master cylinder and the reservoir, the apportioning valves doesn't work as it should (and leaks) and the shuttle valve is still causing the brake light to go on. I haven't even started diagnosing those yet so they may still be problems in a month. The brakes still feel quite weak too, I suspect the rears are having next to no affect and the discs haven't been bedded in so hopefully there's plenty of improvement to be had.

I'll keep all the door stuff in my door thread for now as its got everything else door related there.

I did buy myself a decent single phase compressor (16cfm) and a portable sand blaster yesterday. The sand blaster is only there to get into the spots I cant reach with the wire brush wheel. I wasn't expecting much after not reading much positive about home use kits (the sand blaster was mainly an excuse to get a good compressor) but it does what I want just fine and is easy to use - just a bit messy.

I do have a number of other goodies that should be appearing soon - tyres, shocks, a sand coloured tilt and some money put aside for paint. That's pretty much all the last big ticket items paid for (just exhaust left) so I just need time now to finish it off. Its on the home stretch but with work commitments at the moment progress is a little slow but at least it looks like it will be finished in the foreseeable future now :D

[stuee]

I forgot to mention in my last post that I sourced the drivers side door drain channel (398252). The series 3 item is exactly the same except it is longer so a quick cut with the grinder and I will have a 101 equivalent. Thanks to those that PM'd me with options.

[stuee]

While doing the door bottoms today I also applied some White Knight Hammered Finish silver to some parts after seeing how nice it turned out in grey_ghost's thread. I have to say I'm impressed with the finish and will keep using it on all the bits I want to keep silver.

Galvanised parts cleaned up and ready for paint:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1056.jpg

Prior to the hammered paint I applied a couple of coats of etch primer.

First coat of hammered finish paint applied:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1057.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/1058.jpg

[Sitec]

Getting close now.... Going to be a stunning looking 101! :)

[stuee]

I've been making progress on the shocks which can be seen in the other thread and I've been pottering away on other small jobs but this weekend I plan to bleed the brakes again and start on some more body prep.

The brakes have a load of air in but no continuous leaking. The pedal feel has disappeared. There was a bit of leaking after the initial fill from the apportioning valve and either there's enough air in the system now that its not leaking or the seals have swelled up and are sealing. I also had a slight leak from a connection from the reservoir to the MC but that has since gone.

Since I have to do a lot of work from home this weekend I though I'd start on stripping the remaining cab panels - my least favourite job on the 101, that way if I'm grumpy on Tuesday I can blame it on work and not the 101!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/582.jpg

I am tempted to leave the gearbox cover out until I do the tray otherwise it will probably sit and collect dust for a while but I'll get stuck in and see how I go. If progress is slow it will be put back into the pile of parts which is slowly diminishing.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/583.jpg

[stuee]

For those following the door thread my other door isn't looking so good. I stripped it down so I could strip the paint off the skin ready for painting. My intention for the other thread was just to demonstrate how a door could be fixed up so I'll leave these pics here rather than put up both doors in the other thread. This one will require a lot more work than the one I've just repaired.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/480.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/518.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/519.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/520.jpg


Otherwise today I spent the day stripping. Its not as fun as it sounds. The most work went into cleaning up the underside of the engine cover. It started off like this:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/521.jpg

Then got to this stage:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/522.jpg

It took a lot of work to get it cleaned up from the above. There was a lot crap that needed the wire brush wheel first before the paint stripper would touch it.

Otherwise here is the result of todays efforts:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/523.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/524.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/525.jpg

Looks like really good progress until you flip all the panels over:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/526.jpg

I ended up leaving the gearbox cover but hopefully tomorrow I can finish all these panels off which means I can drop them of to the painters. I'll use my sand blaster to clean the last little bits on the underside of the engine cover. The panels with a bitumen coating will need a bit of work though. Feeling naffed right now. It wouldn't be half as bad if there wasn't 30 coats of NATO green on some panels...

I have a few ideas for tomorrow to speed up the process though so touch wood it wont take me as long.

[Sitec]

Wow!!! How'd you get all of that so clean?? must b some awesome paint stripper!!! :)

[chazza]

This one will require a lot more work than the one I've just repaired.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/480.jpg


If that was my door, I would preserve it as a pattern and make a new one from scratch. The depth of those rust pits is enough to write it off :(

PM me if you think making a new one is worthwhile,

Cheers Charlie

[Sitec]

If that was my door, I would preserve it as a pattern and make a new one from scratch. The depth of those rust pits is enough to write it off :(

PM me if you think making a new one is worthwhile,

Cheers Charlie

X2!

[stuee]

Plan is to cut out a new back section from some 2mm sheet I have, cut out the rusted out stuff and weld in the new sheet. I'll then have to do a pattern up to repair the raised section similar to the other door.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/465.jpg

I'll also cut the back section of another large section of the lower frame which is shown in another picture.

If the door frame was the same size as the defender or series 3 I would be able to simply cut entire sections out and replace them.

[stuee]

Otherwise today was another hard day stripping paint. I found that my GS was potentially used in a ambo role or they flogged the door off one at one point:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/463.jpg

Otherwise a bunch of shiny panels waiting for me to take them to the paint shop. A lot of the shiny or dull spots you see are where I touched up the panel with a wire brush wheel.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/464.jpg

I also realised I haven't pulled down one door top yet so I'll do that after work tomorrow. With those the plan is to get the panel beaters to strip the paint. I don't want to do it as it will rust in-between now and whenever I drop it off to get painted. I'll also see if they can do a small rust repair for me.

[stuee]

Repaired the final door frame today - well mostly done anyway. Came up okay and I'm happy these will see me through for quite a while. Just need to get the channels glued on and a drain hole drilled.

Making the new section:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1224.jpg

New section made:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1225.jpg

Workshop manager:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1226.jpg

Need some good lights to help apply the final rust seal coat on the door frame - I have a half built 101 in the driveway:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1227.jpg

A solid door frame:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/1228.jpg

[stuee]

I bled the brakes again and got pedal feel back but still have the shuttle valve showing a failed circuit. Next job for that I will try and apply the vacuum bleeder to the bleed nipple on the shuttle valve. I've already hit it with a hammer and I'm hesitant to remove it because its so bloody hard to put in. I've settled on the fact that I need to stomp on the brakes to get them to work and they probably wont live up to the feel and ease of use of the SS in the driveway ;)

If the rear apportioning valve leaks again then it will be ripped out and I will replace it with a generic one similar to Garry. I was looking at the Land Cruiser ones but they have three ports, I gather one for the front brake line. I'm not sure what purpose that serves but yet to find any cross section drawings or decent explanations to figure out if I can simply block off the front feed port.

Otherwise another turnaround is starting at work and another date I wanted to be finished by has passed (work has literally got in the way though...). Once the turnaround is over I'm going to try and get a week or two off to finish the thing. I've got everything I need or have it on order bar the exhaust, paint for the tray (tinted U-POL Raptor), and possibly rope for the new tilt if it doesn't come with it.

[Sitec]

and possibly rope for the new tilt if it doesn't come with it.

Where r u getting the new tilt from?...

[stuee]

Its coming from John Craddocks (Exmoor distributor) along with some new wheels. I saw Exmoor make one and they have a reasonably good rep so thought I'd get a tilt to save on postage at the same time.

[stuee]

I've been told I've been doing too many long days at the turnaround at work so today I left at 3 to please the masters but really just wanted to pick up my panels from the painters:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/781.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/782.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/783.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/784.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/785.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/786.jpg

There's still quite a few more wrapped up in paper. I probably wont get most of these fitted for quite some time though.

Also progress on the second door skin. It's actually got its final coat of black now and the little holes I couldn't weld filled up but I haven't taken a photo:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/05/787.jpg

Just looking at it now though I realise I still need to drill a nice big drain hole at the bottom of the door!

[stuee]

I've been stuck on a 13 day per fortnight roster for the last 5 weeks at work and at least another two weeks to go. I haven't done much on the 101 but have been tinkering some evenings and during the two days off I've had in the last 5 weeks :(

I have put the sound proofing back on the engine cover. I got some dynamat from ebay ($130 cheaper than what the local shop sells it for :o ) and a hoodliner too. Below are the pics of fitting it, hopefully it means a reasonably cool engine cover that doesn't rattle too much. I had to cut the hoodliner to fit it neatly so have some heat shield tape to cover the gaps and it looks quite neat when finished.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1348.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1349.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1350.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1351.jpg

I cant fit the final inspection hatch cover as the painters missed a bit with the hinge folded over. I'll get it touched up when the rear gets painted.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1352.jpg

Also got a heap of 316 stainless bolts for attaching non structural parts. I dont have photos but already attached the wheel arches and some other trim pieces and they looks the goods.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/1353.jpg

I've also ordered a new carb throttle linkage that goes between the two carbs. I didn't think the inspectors would appreciate the duct tape I currently have keeping the link on...

[bed_bug]

Looking good Stuee. Jealous of your ability to constantly work outdoors ! The door bottoms, a constant repair issue. I split one apart last night and wonders why anyone hasn't had the frames dipped in Galv ? Steve

[stuee]

Looking good Stuee. Jealous of your ability to constantly work outdoors ! The door bottoms, a constant repair issue. I split one apart last night and wonders why anyone hasn't had the frames dipped in Galv ? Steve

I thought about galvanising but was concerned that the seal channels would fill with zinc. Having been through the rebuilding process, if I were to do it again I would cut the channels off, repair the frames, get them galvanised and re-painted, then sikaflex new channels on.

[bed_bug]

Yes I can see that now you've pointed it out. I was thinking of Junking the strips anyway so I'll get them done. Stainless I've found very addictive ending up with Dome top hex key bolts everywhere.

[spongie]

Yes I can see that now you've pointed it out. I was thinking of Junking the strips anyway so I'll get them done. Stainless I've found very addictive ending up with Dome top hex key bolts everywhere.

Same here, look tidier

[Ben_Vapid]

Just read this from the first to last page, inspiring work stuee!

I'd love a 101 but don't have the space or skills to do what you're doing, so i'll live through you for now. Keep up the great work :)

[JayBoRover]

Whoo Hoo! 50 pages - took me a couple of (looong) nights though. A fantastic thread and a real inspiration. I've done a few bike build threads on another forum so know it takes a fair amount of time and energy. Great of you to share with us all.

I'm possibly close to taking the plunge into 101 territory, depending on a few minor points ... like spondoolies. I have enough "projects" lying around here though so I won't be going through all your experiences on a 101, at least not until I'm down to just the one Series 1 that started this Landy addiction.

[stuee]

edit* also thanks for all the positive feedback. Gives you a buzz when people appreciate the effort your putting in!

I've got the next two weeks off and I only have two goals for that time off, first not to think about work, and second to get the 101 registered. There's a whole lot to do still to "finish" the 101 but I'll take some shortcuts to get it road registered then finish off the remaining items once its on the road, hopefully just getting the rear body work painted. The biggest challenge ahead is making sure the brakes are spot on, otherwise fingers crossed it should be a fairly straight forward two weeks.

The big jobs I have are:
- Finish wiring up rear lights, including new reverse lights.
- Repair rear tray and spray on tinted raptor liner.
- Fit wheel arch extensions to cover new wheels.
- Pull out rear apportioning valve and get working.
- Get brake failure switch centralised and working again.

Anyway onto progress...

I found some reasonably priced ht lead managers, so getting to work installing them.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/544.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/545.jpg

I've assembled the door tops with new window channels. Wasn't a particularly fun job but they look 100x better than what they started as. Where I cut the channel to size I painted the steel to try and hold of the rust that will eventually take hold again.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/546.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/547.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/548.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/549.jpg

I've also fitted the seals to and mounted the passenger side door. It looks great with a door on. The 101 is now reversed in so I can start on the drivers side door.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/550.jpg

If someone tells you you can use a range rover tailgate seal on the leading edge of the doors, don't listen. When the seal was delivered it didn't look like it would work but I persevered and I will have draughty font door :( If anyone has suggestions on where you can get replacement leading edge seals I would love to know.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/551.jpg

I've also finished the body work on the passenger side of the cab, so the battery box is now complete, and the air filter has its cover installed. I've still got the panel to rivet on behind the air filter but I'm going to leave this until just before the tray is secured to give me last minute access if I need it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/07/552.jpg

[101RRS]

Stuee - is really stating to look good. Love the colour.

Your post just scared the crappo out of me - you have hidden sound in there :cool:.

Sounds great.

Garry

[Don 130]

Stuee, have a look a Spectrum's catalogue for you rubber section.

http://www.spectrumrubber.com.au/images/stories/Spectrum_Rubber_Catalogue.pdf

You're doing a great job. The truck looks fantastic. I too love the colour.

Don.